(LIBRARY    j 

(     UNIVERSITY  OF     I 

1IMAL 


SWAIN'S     BAKERY 

^213    SUTTER    STREET 
SWAIN    BROTHERS. 


^i^u^e 


fllflOGI'S  »  BOUlhLiON 


LIQUID  EXTRACT  OF  BEEF 

/"TO  HAVE  a  happy  invention  is  not  sufficient.  The  simplicity  with  which 
(d)  "MAGGI'S  &OUJLLON"  can  be  used  will  quickly  demonstrate  it  as 
being  as  indispensable  in  the  kitchen  as^alt  or  pepper. 

"MAGGI'S  BOUILLON"  is  simply  Liquid  Extract  of  Beef,  a  teaspoonful 
of  which  put  into  a  cup  of  hot  or  cold  water  makes  at  once  a.  perfect  "Beef  Tea" 
that  sick  or  well  will  relish. 

Two  tablespoon fuls  to  a  quart  of  water  (adding  vegetables,  etc.),  will  make 
a  better  Soup  or  Potage  than  hours  spent  over  the  fire  by  the  finest  cook. 

A  small  quantity  added  to  Gravies,  Ragouts^  Stews,  Roasts  etc. ,  will  improve 
their  quality  to  such  an  extent  as  will  surprise  one. 

Unlike  all  other  Extracts  of  Meat,  "MAGGI'S  BOUILLON"  is  extremely 
palatable,  does  not  need  the  addition  of  salt  or  pepper  to  make  it  so,  can  be  used 
by  the  most  inexperienced,  and  will  produce  a  better  Broth  or  Soup  than  any  first- 
class  cook  can  turn  out  otherwise.  No  soup-stock  hereafter  will  be  necessary,  as 
"MAGGI'S  BOUILLON"  is  better  and  cheaper,  more  nutritious  for  the  sick, 
convalescent  and  healthy. 


[  Bouillon  with  Fine  Herbs 
VARIETIES  -j  Plain  Bouillon 

i.  Bouillon  with  Truffles 
In  5-oz.  and  Quart  bottles  with  glass  stoppers 


MORRIS  NEWTON  &  GO. 


AGENTS 


CARBONE  &  MONTI 


THE  LEADING 


FLORISTS 


343  KEARNY  ST.  ^  619^  VALENCIA  ST. 

TELEPHONE  903  TELEPHONE  6130 

SAN    KRANCISCO 

Blanding  Ave.  Nursery 

A  LAMBDA 


THE  \VORLE>'S  GREATEST  RAILROAD 

9518  Miles  of  Track 


THE  ONLY  ROUTE  -  ,,. 

Running  both  Palace  Vestibule  and  Tourist  Pullman  Sleepers 

Daily  between 

San  Francisco  *  Chicago 


WITHOUT    CHANGE 


For   maps,    rates    or   other    information,    address 


C.  H.  SPEERS,  W.  A.  BISSELL, 


OR 


Asst.  Gen'l  Passenger  Agent  General  Passenger  Agent 


Room   61,   Chronicle    Building,  San    Francisco,  Cal, 


THE  CALIFORNIA 


BUSH  ST.,  NEAR 


SAN  KRANCISCO,  CAL. 


THE  ONLY  STRICTLY  EUROPEAN  PLAN  AND  FIRE-PROOF 
HOTEL  IN  THE  CITY 


IT  IS  A  RECOGNIZED  fact  that  San  Francisco  has  made  from  time  to  time  the  greatest  effort 
to  surpass  all  other  cities  in  her  Hotel  accommodations,  and  it  must  be  conceded  that  the  acme 

of  perfection  has  now  been  reached.  The  California  was  opened  December,  1890,  and  there  is 
nothing  on  the  Pacific  Coast,  so  far  as  artistic  taste,  elegance  of  appointments  and  lavish^expendi- 
ture  go,  which  can  compare  with  it. 

The  California  is  unsurpassed  in  style  of  service  by  the  best  hotels  of  the  United  States. 
Heretofore  there  has  been  no  strictly  European  plan  hotel  in  San  Francisco.  Select  music  every 
evening  in  Restaurant  between  6  and  8  P.  M.  Moderate  rates. 

A  visit  to  this  city  is  incomplete  without  seeing  The  California,  unquestionably  the  most  beauti- 
ful and  luxuriously  furnished  hotel  in  America. 

A.  F.  KINZLER,  MANAGER 


PATENT   ROLLER 


FLOUR 


Whitest  and  Best  Flour  in  the  market.     Sells  for 

fifty  cents  [500.]  per  barrel  more  than 

any  other  brand 


HOME 


DISSERTATIONS: 


OFFERING    TO    THE     HOUSEHOLD 


FOR 


ECONOMICAL    AND    PRACTICAL    SKILL    IN    COOKERY, 

ORDERLY    DOMESTIC    MANAGEMENT, 

AND    NICETY    IN 

THE    APPOINTMENTS    OF    HOME. 


EXCERPTS  FROM  FAVORITE  AUTHORS, 


COMPILED  AND  ILLUSTRATED  BY 


MRS.    E.    STEVENS   TILTON. 

V    i     I 


SECOND  EDITION 


SAN  FRANCISCO,  CAL. 

GOLDBERG,  BOWEN  &  LEBENBAUM,  PUBLISHERS 

426  TO  432  PINE  ST.  AND  215-217  SUTTER  ST. 

1891 


Copyright,  1885,  by 

MRS.    E.   STEVENS  TII,TON 


THE  OXFORD  PUBLISHING  Co. 

3  East  14th  St.,  New  York 


PREFACE. 


presenting  HOME  DISSERTATIONS,  it  has  been  our 
aim  to  embody  every  want,  solve  every  dilemma,  and 
gratify  every  wish  of  a  good  housekeeper.  The  in- 
formation endeavored  to  impart,  valuable  household  re- 
ceipts for  plain  and  fancy  cooking,  French  names  of 
all  articles  of  food,  and  how  to  prepare  them,  varied 
menus  for  all  kinds  of  entertainments,  etc.,  has  been  ob- 
tained and  arranged  with  no  little  effort. 

GOLDBERG,  BOWEN  &  LEBENBAUM 


529 


\ 


PURE,  FRESH,  DELICIOUS, 


apd 


ORDERS  BY  MAIL  OR  EXPRESS  WILL  RECEIVE 
PROMPT  ATTENTION, 

iei     STJ5TE     ST.,  CHICAGO. 

Branch  of  803  Broadway,  N.  Y. 


"And  when    night   came,  amidst    the    breathless  Heavens,  we'd  guess  what  star  should  be  our 
home  when  love  becomes  immortal."     *     * 


HOME. 

Home!  home!  sweet,  sweet  home! 

«  r  ¥  "HE  household  is  the  home  of  the  man,  as  well  as  .of  the  child.  The 
events  that  occur  therein  are  more  near  and  affecting  to  us  than  those  which 
are  sought  in  senates  and  academies.  Domestic  events  are  certainly  our 
affairs.  What  are  called  public  events  may  or  may  not  be  ours.  If  a  man  wishes  to 
acquaint  himself  with  the  real  history  of  the  world,  with  the  spirit  of  the  age,  he  must  not 
go  first  to  the  state-house  or  the  court-room.  The  subtle  spirit  of  life  must  be  sought 
in  facts  nearer.  It  is  what  is  done  and  suffered  in  the  house,  in  the  constitution,  in  the 
temperament,  in  the  personal  history,  that  has  the  profoundest  interest  for  us,"  says  Emer- 
son, and  adds:  "Let  us  come,  then,  out  of  the  public  square,  and  enter  the  domestic  precinct. 
Let  us  go  to  the  sitting  room,  the  table-talk,  and  the  expenditure  of  our  contemporaries. 
Does  the  household  obey  an  idea  ?  Do  you  see  the  man, — his  form,  genius,  and  aspira- 
tion,— in  his  economy?  Is  that  translucent,  thorough-lighted  ?  There  should  be  nothing 
confounding  and  conventional  in  economy,  but  the  genius  and  love  of  the  man  so  con- 
spicuously marked  in  all  his  estate,  that  the  eye  that  knew  him  should  read  his  character 
in  his  property,  in  his  grounds,  in  his  ornaments,  in  his  every  expense.  A  man's  money 
should  not  follow  the  direction  of  his  neighbor's  money,  but  should  represent  to  him  the 
things  he  would  willingliest  do  with  it.  I  am  not  one  thing  and  my  expenditure  another, 
My  expenditure  is  me.  That  our  expenditure  and  our  character  are  twain,  is  the  vice  of 
society. 

The  progress  of  domestic  living  has  been  in  cleanliness,  in  ventilation,  in  health,  in 
decorum,  in  countless  means  and  arts  of  comfort,  in  the  concentration  of  all  the  utilities 
of  every  clime  in  each  house.  They  are  arranged  for  low  benefits.  The  houses  of  the 
rich  are  confectioners'  shops,  where  we  get  sweetmeats  and  wine;  the  houses  of  the  poor 
are  imitations  of  these  to  the  extent  of  their  ability.  With  these  ends  housekeeping  is  not 
beautiful;  it  cheers  and  raises  neither  the  husband,  the  wife,  nor  the  child;  neither  the 
host,  nor  the  guest;  it  oppresses  women.  A  house  kept  to  the  end  of  prudence  is  labo- 
rious without  joy;  a  house  kept  to  the  end  of  display  is  impossible  to  all  but  a  few 
women,  and  their  success  is  dearly  bought. 

Let  us  understand,  then,  that  a  house  should  bear  witness  in  all  its  economy  that 
human  culture  is  the  end  to  which  it  is  built  and  garnished.  It  stands  there  under  the 
sun  and  moon  to  ends  analogous,  and  not  less  noble  than  theirs.  It  is  not  for  festivity,  it 
is  not  for  sleep:  but  the  pine  and  the  oak  shall  gladly  descend  from  the  mountain  to  up- 
hold the  roof  of  men  as  faithful  and  necessary  as  themselves;  to  be  the  shelter  always  open 
to  good  and  true  persons — a  hall  which  shines  with  sincerity,  brows  ever  tranquil,  and  a 


6  HOME    DISSERTATIONS. 

demeanor  impossible  to  disconcert;  whose  inmates  know  what  they  want;  who  do  not  ask 
your  house  how  theirs  should  be  kept.  They  have  aims:  they  cannot  pause  for  trifles. 
The  diet  of  the  house  does  not  create  its  order,  but  knowledge,  character,  action,  absorb 
so  much  life  and  yield  so  much  entertainment  that  the  refectory  has  ceased  to  be  so  curi- 
ously studied.  With  a  change  of  aim  has  followed  a  change  of  the  whole  scale  by  which 
men  and  things  were  wont  to  be  measured.  Wealth  and  poverty  are  seen  for  what  they 
arc.  It  begins  to  be  seen  that  the  poor  are  only  they  who  feel  poor,  and  poverty  consists 
in  feeling  poor.  The  poor  man's  son  is  educated.  There  is  many  a  humble  house  in  every 
city,  in  every  town,  where  talent  and  taste,  and  sometimes  genius,  dwell  with  poverty  and 
labor. 

Honor  to  the  house  where  they  are  simple  to  the  verge  of  hardship,  so  that  the 
intellect  is  awake  and  reads  the  laws  of  the  universe,  the  soul  worships  truth  and  love, 
honor  and  courtesy  flows  into  all  deeds." 

"  In  the  true  marriage  relation  the  independence  of  the  husband  and  the  wife  is  equal, 
their  dependence  mutual,  and  their  obligations  are  reciprocal."  The  hearts  of  married 
people  ought  to  be  types  of  one  another;  a  husband  owes  to  his  wife  all  the  sentiment  he 
expects  from  her;  and  his  happiness  depends  much  more  on  what  he  is  to  her  than  what 
she  is  to  him." 

"  It  is  well  for  the  women  of  the  household  to  remember  that  pleasant  homes  are 
strong  antidotes  to  the  practice  of  looking  for  enjoyment  abroad;  for  relaxation  and  rec- 
reation will  be  indulged  in  somehow  by  most  men,  and  happy  are  they  who  find  in  the 
home  circle  the  diversion  they  need.  A  lively  game,  an  interesting  book  read  aloud,  or 
in  musical  families,  a  new  song  to  be  practiced,  will  furnish  pastime  that  will  make  an 
evening  enjoyable  to  all.  Our  homes  should  be  warm,  bright,  home-like,  and  cozy.  Every 
corner  should  appear  as  if  somebody  made  it  an  especial  haunt  and  had  just  gone  out. 

"  Let  all  the  members  of  households  ever  remember  that  at  home  there  should  be 
peace  and  unity,  though  all  the  world  be  at  war.  Those  bound  by  the  ties  of  kindred 
should  uphold  each  other,  and  bear  with  each  others  foibles  and  hide  them  from  strang- 
ers' eyes.  Those  who  dwell  under  the  same  home-roof  must  fight  under  one  flag  or  be 
defeated.  Policy,  if  not  good  feeling,  should  bind  together  the  members  of  every 
household." 

I  honor  that  man  whose  ambition  it  is,  not  to  win  laurels  in  the  State  or  the  army,  not 
to  be  a  jurist  or  a  naturalist,  not  to  be  a  poet  or  a  commander,  but  to  be  a  master  of  liv- 
ing well,  and  to  administer  the  offices  of  master  or  servant,  of  husband,  father,  and  friend. 
Cut  it  requires  as  much  breadth  of  power  for  this  as  for  those  other  functions, — as  much, 
or  more, — and  the  reason  for  the  failure  is  the  same.  I  think  the  vice  of  our  housekeep- 
ing is,  that  it  does  not  hold  man  sacred.  The  vice  of  government,  the  vice  of  education, 
the  vice  of  religion,  is  one  with  that  of  private  life.  Let  religion  cease  to  be  occasional; 
and  the  pulses  of  thought  that  go  to  the  borders  of  the  universe,  let  them  proceed  from 
the  bosom  of  the  household. 

These  are  'he  consolations, — these  are  the  ends  to  which  the  household  is  instituted 


HOME.  7 

and  the  rooftree  stands.  If  these  were  sought,  and  in  good  degree  attained,  can  the 
State,  can  commerce,  can  climate,  can  the  labor  of  many  for  one,  yield  anything  better  or 
half  so  good  ? 

Beside  these  aims,  Society  is  weak,  and  the  State  an  intrusion.  I  think  the  heroism 
which  at  this  day  would  make  on  us  the  impression  of  Epaminondas  and  Phocion  must 
be  that  of  a  domestic  conqueror.  He  who  shall  bravely  and  gracefully  subdue  this  Gor- 
gon of  Convention  and  Fashion,  and  show  men  how  to  lead  a  clean,  handsome,  and 
heroic  life  amid  the  beggarly  elements  of  our  cities  and  villages;  who  shall  teach 
me  how  to  eat  my  meat  and  take  my  repose,  and  deal  with  men,  without  any  shame 
following,  will  restore  the  life  of  man  to  splendor,  and  make  his  own  name  dear  to 
all  history. 

Beyond  its  primary  ends  of  the  conjugal,  parental,  and  amicable  relations,  the  house- 
hold should  cherish  the  beautiful  arts  and  the  sentiments  of  veneration.  Certainly,  not 
aloof  from  this  homage  to  beauty,  but  a  strict  connection  therewith,  the  house  will  come 
to  be  esteemed  a  Sanctuary.  The  language  of  a  ruder  age  has  given  to  common  law  the 
maxim  that  every  man's  house  is  his  castle:  the  progress  of  truth  will  make  every  house 
a  shrine." 

"  The  happy  home.  •'  It  is  just  as  possible  to  keep  a  calm  house  as  a  clean  house,  a 
cheerful  house  as  an  orderly  house,  a  happy  home  as  a  furnished  house,  if  the  heads  set 
themselves  to  do  so.  Where  is  the  difficulty  of  consulting  each  other's  weakness,  as  well 
as  each  other's  wants;  each  other's  tempers,  as  well  as  each  other's  health;  each  other's 
comfort,  as  well  as  each  other's  character?  Oh!  it  is  by  leaving  the  peace  at  home  to 
chance,  instead  of  pursuing  it  by  system,  that  so  many  homes  are  unhappy.  It  deserves 
notice,  also,  that  almost  anyone  can  be  courteous  and  forbearing  and  patient  in  a 
neighbor's  house.  If  anything  go  wrong,  or  be  out  of  time,  or  be  disagreeable  there,  it  is 
made  the  best  of,  not  the  worst;  even  efforts  are  made  to  excuse  it,  and  to  show  that  it  is 
not  felt;  or,  if  felt,  it  is  attributed  to  accident,  not  design;  and  this  is  not  only  easy,  but 
natural,  in  the  house  of  a  friend.  I  will  not,  therefore,  believe  that  what  is  so  natural  in 
the  house  of  another  is  impossible  at  home,  but  maintain,  without  fear,  that  a 
husband,  as  willing  to  be  pleased  at  home,  and  as  anxious  to  please  as  in  his  neighbor's 
house;  and  a  wife  as  intent  on  making  things  comfortable  every  day  to  her  family  as  on 
set  days  to  her  guests,  could  not  fail  to  make  their  own  home  happy.  Let  us  not  evade 
the  point  of  these  remarks  by  recurring  to  the  maxim  about  allowances  for  temper,  unless 
we  could  prove  that  we  gained  anything  good  by  giving  way  to  it.  Fits  of  ill-humor 
punish  us  quite  as  much,  if  not  more,  than  those  they  are  vented  upon;  and  it  actually 
requires  more  effort,  and  inflicts  more  pain  to  give  them  up,  than  would  be  requisite  to 
avoid  them." 

"  The  rapid  increase  of  boarding-houses  and  hotels  in  all  our  great  cities  is  attracting 
much  attention  from  those  who  study  the  various  phases  of  American  social  life.  The 
increase  is  far  greater  than  the  natural  increase  of  population  would  warrant,  in  many 
cases  homes  are  broken  up  and  housekeeping  abandoned,  not  from  motives  of  economy, 


8 


HOME    DISSERTATIONS. 


but  from  sheer  indolence  and  simply  to  avoid  the  management  of  the  household   and  the 
innumerable  petty  cares  inseparable  from  any  establishment,  however  small. 

The  boarding  house  as  a  temporary  accommodation  is  useful,  but  it  is  hardly  the  place 
in  which  to  properly  bring  up  children.  The  privacy  of  family  life  is  not  an  enjoyment 
which  under  natural  conditions  it  would  be.  The  delicate  relations  and  expansion  of 
home  do  not  exist,  and  the  liens  which  hold  the  family  together  become  lax.  There  is 
but  little  distinction  between  its  intercourse  and  that  which  it  extends  to  acquaintances, 
through  lacking  opportunities.  We  believe  that  the  influence  of  boarding-house  life  has 
been  mischievous  to  American  society,  in  weakening  the  home  feeling  and  developing  a 
gregarious  spirit.  To  live  in  a  crowd  has  become  a  habit. 

There  are  comparatively  few  people  of  the  large  cities  who  have  the  love  of  a  country 
home   in   their   hearts,  owing  to  what  they  consider  its  isolation.      There  is  no  "society' 
there.     They  depend  on  others  for  their  daily  quota  of  happiness,  and  do  not  think  of 
drawing  on  themselves.      This  is  nationally  characteristic  of  both  rich  and  poor. 

The  money  which  a  family  spends  in  two  or  three  seasons  at  Newport,  Saratoga  or 
Long  Branch  would  buy  a  homestead,  which,  as  an  educator  of  manhood  and  womanhood, 
would  be  worth  more  than  any  hotel  or  boarding-house  "  society  "  that  ever  existed. 
Children  would  grow  up  with  the  trees  and  become  natural,  like  them,  instead  of  the  poor 
creatures  one  so  often  sees  in  "  society."  Family  ties  would  become  stronger,  as  well  as 
home  virtues. 


\ 


"  To  culti- 
possess  and  to 

"  The  desire 
and  therefore 

' '  Keep  noth- 


ART  AT  HOME. 

vate  and  exercise  judiciously  the  Artistic  sense,  is  to  be  a  person  of  Taste.       To 

cultivate  it  in  an  extraordinary  degree,  is  to  be  an  Artist. 

for   simplicity  and   sincerity,  and,   by  means  of  these,  beauty,  in    our  houses, 

in  the  lives  that  we  spend  in  them. 

ing  in  your  house  but  what  you  know  to  be  useful,  or  believe  to  be  beautiful." 

"     \    RT  decoration,"  "Art  colors,"  "Art  fabrics,"  "Art  needle- 

/~~\      work,"  and    so   on  ;     and,  moreover,   what    is    exactly 

meant,  when  people  say — as  I  most  earnestly  wish  they 

would  not — that  they  "go  in  for  High  Art."    The  word  seems 

really  to  have  lost  the  power  of  expressing  what  those  who  care 

for  it  in  its  right  meaning  would  have  it  express.      Let  us  try  to 

get  at  that  right  meaning,  and 
learn  to  use  it  properly.  "Art 
decoration,"  "Art  embroidery," 
and  the  like,  are  tautological 
expressions.  If  such  things  ex- 
ist at  all,  they  must  of  necessity 


belong  to 
it,  just  as 
geography 
and  chem- 
istry must 
of  neces- 
sity be  sci- 
ence, and 
belong  to 
it. 


10 


HOME    DISSERTATIONS'. 


'Lucy  Crane,  in  her  lectures  on  Art  and  the  Formation  of  Taste,  furthermore  says: 

"  Many  people  think  that '  High  Art,'  as  they  call  it  is  inseparably  associated  with  affec- 
tation, and  melancholy,  and  dull  colors,  and  general  darkness,  and  dirt,  and  discomfort; 
this  is  certainly  not  the  sort  of  thing  I  wish  to  advocate:  the  art  that  those  first  teachers 
originated,  is  an  art  of  simplicity,  of  cheerfulness  and  brightness,  of  comfort,  cleanliness, 
and  hospitality,  and  is  a  help  to  good  healthy  living,  and  not  a  hindrance  to  it." 

The  distinction  which  has  somehow  arisen  between  "Color"  and  "Art  color"  is  a  quite 
unreasonable  one,  and  based  on  false  ideas.  If  a  color  is  of  such  a  nature  as  to  be 
inadmissable  in  Art,  it  is  no  color  at  all,  properly  speaking;  it  is  a  stain,  a  dye,  a  pigment. 
It  is  easy  to  trace  these  expressions  back  to  their  origin.  They  were  invented  by  shop- 
keepers, to  characterize  a  kind  of  goods  got  up  in  a  certain  style  to  please  that  part  of  the 
public  that  cares  for  fashion  and  novelty  alone;  and  has  no  higher  aims  or  desires,  and 
wishes  to  have  none.  So  let  us  leave  such  expressions  to  their  inventors,  who,  by  bad 
imitations  of  the  good  work  of  our  time,  seek  to  catch  our  fancy,  careless  or  idle,  as  we 
most  of  us  are,  or  else  too  busy  to  pay  any  regard  to  such  matters.  There  is,  however,  no 
sort  of  lasting  satisfaction  in  merely  following  blindly  the  fashion  of  the  day,  whether  it  be 
in  house  decoration,  or  in  coloring,  or  in  dress,  or  in  pictures;  for  it  seems  there  is  a 
fashion  even  in  these.  Ideas  hastily  caught  up,  and  adopted  without  reason  and  consider- 
ation, must  be  shallow  and  worthless  ones.  The  love  of  novelty  is  opposed  to  the  pro- 
duction of  good  art  which  is  in  its  nature  and  constitution  lasting,  living,  and  in  a  sense 
immortal:  in  the  race  for  novelty,  the  last  new  thing  runs  down  the  one  before  it,  only  to 
perish  in  its  turn,  because  it  deserves  no  better  fate.  But  for  those  of  us  who  care  for 
something  more  in  our  lives  than  fashion  and  novelty,  it  is  worth  while  to  examine  into 
the  real  nature  and  true  meaning  of  Art,  so  as  to  possess  ourselves  of  all  the  various 
knowledge  and  pleasure  it  is  capable  of  giving. 

So,  to  guard  against  any  misconception  from  the  beginning,  let  me  attempt  to  define 
what  Art  is.  The  word  in  its  original  sense  meant  force,  or  strength,  and  it  was  applied 
to  mechanical  work,  and  is  so  still.  We  speak  of  the  art  of  weaving,  the  art  of  printing, 
the  florist's  art,  the  art  of  cooking,  and  so  on;  and  in  these  we  mean  to  express  the  result 
of  man's  putting  forth  his  hand  and  operating  on  Nature;  and  Art  in  its  widest  sense  has 
come  to  be  "  human  labor  regulated  by  human  design." 

Art  decorative,  "  The  first  spiritual  want  of  a  barbarous  man,"  says  Carlyle,  "  is 
decoration."  That  want  began  to  develop  itself  ages  before  the  time  of  which  we  have 
any  certain  record;  and  the  same  thing  is  still  to  be  observed  among  tribes  of  savage  men  at 
the  present  time.  He — the  savage,  the  barbarous  man— scratches  patterns  on  his  weap- 
ons, his  paddles,  his  tools  and  utensils  of  all  sorts,  and  on  his  own  body  as  well;  next  he 
begins  to  weave  stuffs  for  his  wearing,  and  to  trace  in  their  texture,  patterns — first  geo- 
metric, then  imitations  of  animal  and  vegetable  life — in  short,  he  learns  to  decorate 
whatever  he  wears  or  uses,  and  to  find  pleasure  in  the  object  beyond  its  use,  a  pleasure  of 
the  eye,  a  delight  in  Beauty;  and  so  he  gradually  creates  a  new  and  wonderful  thing — the 
Artistic  Sense. 


ART    AT    HOME.  ir 

I  am  sorry  to  say  that  in  these  later  days  of  civilization  we  often  see  ornament  dis- 
tinctly hindering  use.  See  to  what  a  pass  civilization  has  brought  our  fire-irons,  things  of 
every-day  use  and  necessity.  A  century  or  so  ago  they  were  lightly  made,  of  a  size  and 
shape  to  be  held  and  used  easily,  and  they  did  their  work  well;  then,  as  luxury  and  osten- 
tation increased,  the  poker,  and  the  shovel,  and  the  tongs  became  larger  and  heavier,  so 
as  to  look  massive  and  handsome,  and  as  if  a  good  deal  of  money  had  been  spent  upon 
them;  their  shape  was  altered  to  suit  new  and  unreasonable  notions  of  elegance — they 
began  to  be  made  of  burnished  steel  and  lacquer-work  of  a  lustre  easily  tarnished  -and 
laboriously  renewed;  and  finally  they  left  off  work  altogether,  being  too  fine  for  it,  and 
were  obliged  to  be  provided  with  a  humble  deputy  to  do  it  for  them.  Of  the  same  kind 
are  candle-sticks  that  must  be  preserved  like  exotics  under  a  glass  shade,  or  call  it  ex- 
tinguisher; curtain-poles  so  gilded  that  the  real  work  must  be  done  by  iron  ones  hidden 
behind;  and  cushions  and  footstools  meant  for  repose,  and  to  that  end  studded  with  hard 
cold  beads.  Now  such  ornament  as  that  is  clear  waste  and  folly,  and  wrong  from  the 
very  beginning. 

The  instinct  for  ornament  in  earlier  stages  of  civilization  is  never  found  to  lead  to 
such  sacrifice.  The  savage  does  not  so  over-decorate  his  paddle,  his  knife,  his  tomahawk, 
as  to  render  it  useless,  and  a  real  and  capable  workman  or  workwoman  has  the  same 
instinct;  and  to  recur  to  what  I  said  just  now,  here  should  come  in  the  practical  knowl- 
edge, that  I  suppose  we  all  of  us  possess  in  some  direction  and  in  some  degree,  and  which 
we  should  be  proud  of  possessing. 

An  accomplished  needlewoman  rejects  the  highly  ornamented  and  tasselled  work- 
basket  with  its  tinselled  implements;  a  practiced  writer  objects  to  a  gilded  and  elaborate 
inkstand  and  a  gimcrack  pen-holder;  and  a  really  clever  amateur  cook  is  not  over-anxious 
about  the  trimming  of  her  apron,  so  that  it  is  of  stout  material  and  the  shape  that  will 
best  protect  her  dress.  To  expend  labor  in  disguising  use  and  falsifying  material,  shows 
an  utter  misconception  of  Art  and  ignorance  of  Beauty.  Ornament  has  come  to  be,  in 
these  days,  a  thing  of  itself,  whereas,  as  such,  it  has  no  real  reason  for  existing.  I  arp  not 
speaking  now  of  anything  of  the  nature  of  a  picture  or  statue.  The  idea  has  somehow 
arisen  that  a  thing,  if  called  an  ornament, — however  useless,  cumbrous,  and  troublesome, — 
must  be  prized  and  taken  care  of.  Now  Mr.  Morris  says:  "  Nothing  is  ornamental  unless 
it  is  also  useful." 

This  you  will  think  at  the  first  glance  condemns  all  or  most  ornamental  objects;  but 
on  examination  it  is  not  so.  It  condemns  groups  of  wax  flowers  under  glass  shades;  it 
condemns  vast  crochet  antimacassars;  it  condemns  glass  fuchsias  at  the  end  of  curtain- 
poles;  it  condemns  huge  china  pugs  and  parrots;  it  condemns  all  china  and  glass  objects 
which  will  not  hold  at  need  flowers  or  fruit,  or  other  or  more  substantial  things  for  which 
china  and  glass  objects  were  originally  intended.  I  do  not  mean  that  we  may  not  use 
china,  and  glass,  and  metal,  and  wooden  objects  exclusively  as  ornaments, — as  their  pecu- 
liar beauty  or  rarity  may  lead  us  so  to  preserve  them  merely  to  be  looked  at, — but  they 
should  have  been  originally  capable  of  fulfilling  perfectly  some  function  or  other,  or  they 


12  HOME    DISSERTATIONS. 

cannot  be  truly  beautiful;  and  the  aimlessness  of  their  structure  would  give  a  feeble 
worthless  appearance,  no  matter  how  much  painting  and  gilding  or  carving  they  have  re- 
ceived, or  how  much  skill  of  hand  has  been  expended  on  them. 

We  are  accustomed  to  recognize  the  necessity  for  intelligence  and  knowledge  in  every 
department  of  life  but  that  which  belongs  to  Beauty  of  Decoration,  of  form  and  color; 
taste  in  these  things  is  left  to  take  care  of  itself. 

We  all  readily  allow  that  education  and  study  go  to  form  the  literary  taste,  the  musi- 
cal taste,  and  even  taste  in  food  or  wine;  but  the  artistic  taste  is  left  to  form  itself. 
Choice  in  form  or  color  is  usually  quite  unguided  by  any  principle,  and  is  by  many  sup- 
posed to  be  unworthy  of  serious  thought.  We  do  not  ask  the  book-seller  to  guide  our 
taste  in  reading,  or  the  music-seller  to  form  our  taste  in  music;  still  less  do  we  allow  the 
cook  and  the  wine  merchant  the  uncontrolled  management  of  our  table. 

Yet  the  furnishing  of  a  house  in  many,  if  not  in  all,  important  particulars  is  commonly 
left  to  the  upholsterer,  or  decorator  as  he  prefers  to  be  called;  and  as  he,  not  working 
with  his  own  hands,  takes  no  pleasure  in  the  work,  but  has  gain  for  his  first  object,  so  h's 
only  idea  is  to  carry  out  what  he  supposes  to  be  the  prevailing  style,  so  as  to  produce  the 
most  show  for  the  most  money;  and  the  result  of  this  is  likely  to  be  a  most  unhappy  one; 
still  people  are  content  with  it — educated  and  refined  people  too — and  they  live  out  their 
lives  complacently,  surrounded  by  evidences  of  vulgarity  and  bad  taste,  at  which  they 
would  be  horrified,  if  they  had  ever  learned  to  appreciate  them. 

We  have  to  consider  Art  as  a  world  of  itself,  created  out  of  Nature  by  the  hand  of  the 
artist-workman.  Art  has  been  called  the  "  flowering  of  man's  moral  nature," — it  is  a 
natural  growth  out  of,  and  beyond  mere  material  necessities;  to  it  we  owe  everything  in 
the  whole  range  of  human  productions  which  appeal  to  the  sense  of  beauty,  and  the 
thoughts  awakened  in  us  by  beauty.  The  artistic  sense  by  which  we  appreciate  these 
things  may  be  counted  as  a  sixth  sense;  it  may  be  possessed  in  a  greater  or  less  degree  by 
the  individual,  but  it  exists  in  every  one,  and  may  be  developed  by  training  and  cultiva- 
tion like  the  other  senses. 

As  I  said  that  to  understand  the  real  nature  of  Art  is  to  possess  ourselves  of  the 
various  pleasures  it  is  capable  of  giving. 

For  I  must  premise  that  the  end  and  aim  of  Art,  and  therefore  the  cultivation  of  the 
Artistic  sense,  is  to  give  pleasure  in  the  common  things  of  life  by  giving  to  them  beauty 
of  form,  pattern,  color;  and  next,  pleasure  of  a  still  higher  order  by  translating  and  trans- 
forming the  things  of  Nature  into  the  beauty  of  picture,  statue,  or  building. 

It  is  the  sort  of  pleasure  that  is  in  all  elevated  things,  and  it  appeals  to  the  purest  and 
most  intellectual  side  of  our  nature;  there  can  be  no  degradation,  no  intemperance  in  the 
cultivation,  the  indulgence  of  the  Artistic  sense.  The  pleasure  it  subserves  lies  at  the 
root,  and  is  the  inspiration  of  music  and  poetry,  as  well  as  of  painting,  and  sculpture,  and 
architecture.  It  is  Beauty  that  is  sought  for  in  all  these;  Beauty  is  the  source  of  the 
pleasure  we  find  in  them,  and  without  Beauty,  any  manifestation  of  these  great  aits  is  nothing 
worth.  We  ask  of  a  musical  composition,  not  only  that  it  shall  be  in  strict  accordance 
i 


ART    AT    HOME.  13 

with  technical  rules,  but  also  that  it  shall  enchant  us  with  the  beauty  of  its  melody  or  the 
sublimity  of  its  form;  we  ask  not  only  that  a  poem  shall  be  written  in  faultless  language 
and  rhythm,  but  it  shall  appeal  with  higher  beauty  to  the  mind  and  the  heart:  so  it  would 
not  be  enough  for  a  picture  to  be  designed  according  to  the  strictest  laws  of  composition 
and  perspective,  or  for  a  statue  to  obey  every  rule  of  anatomy,  or  for  a  building  to  have 
every  proportional  and  geometric  perfection — there  must  be  a  soul  of  beauty  and  sub- 
limity in  the  picture,  the  statue,  the  building,  as  well  as  in  the  musical  composition  and 
the  poem;  and  then  by  them  we  shall  be  made  to  feel  the  highest  pleasure  of  which  our 
nature  is  capable — a  pleasure  which  nourishes  the  intellect  in  delighting  the  senses,  and 
through  them,  the  heart. 

At  the  head  of  these  greater  Arts,  the  Fine  Arts  properly  so  called, — Poetry,  Music, 
Painting,  Sculpture,  Architecture — at  the  head  of  each  of  these  stand  great  names  with 
which  we  are  all  familiar;  of  their  minds  and  work  we  know  something,  and  that  some- 
thing is  usually  the  basis  of  our  knowledge  of  these  Arts  themselves.  Our  admiration  of 
the  music  of  Handel,  and  Bach,  and  Beethoven,  grows  deeper  as  our  theoretical  under- 
standing and  practical  experience  of  the  Art  of  Music  increases;  the  more  we  learn 
about  the  nature  and  powers  of  language,  and  the  larger  our  experience  of  life,  the  more 
we  appreciate  and  admire  Shakespeare,  and  Dante,  and  Goethe;  and  with  inquiry  into  a 
study  of  the  nature  and  history  of  the  Arts,  joined  with  as  much  practical  knowledge  of 
them  as  may  be  possible,  we  shall  enter  the  more  fully  into  the  minds  and  works  of  the 
Great  Masters  of  Sculpture  and  Painting — Phidias  and  Michael  Angelo,  Leonardo  and 
Raphael  and  Titian, — so  that  they  may  be  something  more  to  us  than  merely  great 
names,  and  their  high  reputation  may  be  justified  to  us.  So,  too,  is  there  much  to  be 
learned  and  enjoyed  in  the  marvels  of  the  architecture  of  all  ages — that  the  Greek,  the 
Romanesque,  the  Gothic,  shall  be  more  than  barren  names;  and  following  in  the  train  of 
these  great  men  and  periods  of  Fine  Art  come  a  crowd  of  lesser  arts,  such  as  the  art  of 
the  potter,  the  carver  in  wood,  in  stone,  in  ivory,  of  the  metal  worker,  the  weaver,  the 
embroiderer,  and  many  others — arts  which  lend  beauty  of  form,  and  pattern,  and  color, 
to  the  common  things  of  life, — each  of  which  has  laws  and  a  character  of  its  own  to  be 
studied,  in  accordance  with  which  Beauty  is  fitly  joined  with  Use;  the  one  furthering 
rather  than  interfering  with  the  functions  of  the  other. 

All  this  opens  a  very  large  prospect.  But  everything  must  have  a  beginning;  and  it  is 
this  little  beginning  that  I  want  to  make  in  the  minds  of  those  for  whom  it  has  not  already 
been  made — a  little  gate  into  that  field,  that  vast  kingdom  of  Art,  which  contains  within 
it  things  small  and  great,  and  of  infinite  diversity,  from  the  pattern  of  the  door-knob  to 
the  sculptures  of  the  Parthenon. 

"  Happy  is  he,"  says  Goethe,  "who,  at  an  early  age,  knows  what  Art  is;"  but  it  is  never 
too  late  to  learn. 

"All  Art,"  says  Mr.  Ruskin,  "worthy  the  name,  is  energy,  neither  of  the  human  body 
alone,  nor  of  the  human  soul  alone,  but  of  both  united,  one  guiding  the  other:  good 
craftsmanship  and  work  of  the  fingers,  joined  with  good  emotion  and  work  of  the  heart." 


14  HOME    DISSERTATIONS. 

In  Mr.  Ruskin's  "  Two  Paths  "  I  find  a  principle  laid  down  that  I  am  convinced  is 
perfectly  sound,  and  easy  of  application  in  these  matters. 

"  The  true  forms  of  conventional  ornament  consist  in  the  bestowal  of  as  much  beauty 
on  the  object  as  shall  be  consistent  with  the  Material,  its  Place,  and  its  Office." 

Every  object,  then,  that  we  admit  into  our  houses  should  be  able  to  sustain  with  credit 
the  following  inquiries  : 

Does  it  appear  to  be  made  of  the  Material  of  which  it  really  is,  or  ought  to  be  made  ? 

Is  it  appropriate  to  the  Place  for  which  it  is  intended  ? 

Does  it  declare  its  use  or  Office,  and  seem  fit  for  it  ? 

Let  us  examine  a  little  into  the  application  of  each  separate  requirement.  The  first, 
you  see,  condemns  all  imitations  of  a  substance,  especially  when  the  object  is  not  likely  to 
have  been  made  of  that  substance.  Such  are  doors  painted  in  bronze,  sham  jewelry, 
paper  flowers,  glass  colored  to  look  like  china,  plaster  to  look  like  iron  and  bronze,  and 
many  more.  It  seems  a  strange  thing,  when  we  reflect,  that  it  should  be  supposed  that 
we  all  take  pleasure  in  a  thing  that  pretends  to  be  something  else  than  it  appears,  and 
that  the  deception  should  be  pointed  out  to  us  as  a  recommendation.  The  advertisement 
that  assures  us  that  Paris  diamonds  and  Abyssinian  jewelry  cannot  be  distinguished  from 
the  real  thing,  the  shopkeeper  who  tells  us  that  some  stuff  of  mixed  material  has  quite  the 
appearance  of  silk,  and  that  a  silk-finished  velveteen  could  easily  be  mistaken  for  velvet; 
all  this  is  intended  to  appeal,  and  really  does  appeal,  to  the  tastes  and  wants  of  a  large 
class.  But  how  much  better  and  more  honest  is  it  to  know  what  the  especial  article  we 
want  ought  to  be  made  of,  and  to  see  that  we  get  it — silk  honestly  silk,  and  woolen 
honestly  woolen,  and  cotton  honestly  cotton,  and  linen  really  and  truly  linen;  and 
when  the  manufacturers  find  what  is  expected  of  them  they  will  supply  it  accordingly. 
It  must  have  been  inappropriate  and  perishable  material  that  first  put  it  into  the 
careful  housewife's  mind  to  provide  an  extra  case  or  cover  for  various  household 
objects — oil-cloth  or  drugget  to  cover  the  stair-carpeting,  holland  covers  for  the  furniture, 
and  antimacassars  over  them  again,  oil-cloth  to  cover  tables,  and  table-covers  to  cover  the 
oil-cloth,  and  mats  to  save  the  tablecloth,  and  much  more  of  the  same  kind.  In  the  first  place, 
the  materials  used  should  be  appropriate  and  serviceable,  and  in  the  second,  people  should 
not  be  ashamed  of  the  signs  of  honest  wear  in  them,  still,  for  my  part,  if  I  must  cover 
things  up  at  all,  I  would  cover  them  when  they  were  really  shabby  than  while  they  were 
fresh.  And  when  this  system  of  covers  extend  itself  to  paper  covers  for  flower-pots,  china- 
cases  and  covers  for  sardine  boxes,  silvered  perforated  cardboard  cases  for  match-boxes, 
and  such  like,  it  seems  to  express  a  dislike  to  the  honest  plainness  and  simplicity,  really 
right  and  appropriate,  of  the  things  themselves,  and  a  false  refinement  and  love  of  disguise. 
It  is  the  same  feeling  that  leads  people  to  call  shops  rep'ositories  and  emporiums,  and  florists 
to  call  themselves  "  horticultural  furnishers."  Simplicity  and  plain  dealing  in  the  material 
of  household  goods  and  appliances  will  lead  us  a  long  way  in  the  direction  of  taste. 

Now  as  to  the  second  requirement.  The  various  rooms  in  our  houses  are  intended  for 
various  uses  and  occasions,  and  natural  instinct  for  convenience  leads  us  to  furnish  them 


ART    AT    HOME. 


16  „  HOME    DISSERTATIONS. 

in  accordance  with  these  uses  and  occasions — the  dining-room  solid  and  severe,  with  large 
and  steady  furniture  adapted  to  serious  needs;  the  kitchen,  full  of  useful  homely  appli- 
ances, kept  bright  and  clean;  and  the  drawing-room,  with  its  books  and  pictures  and  elegan- 
cies, suited  for  leisure  and  social  purposes,  and  therefore  rightly  the.  most  decorated  room 
in  the  house.  So  bearing  the  different  functions  of  each  room  in  mind,  and  furnishing 
them  in  accordance  with  each,  we  get  a  general  sense  of  order  and  appropriateness.  All 
this  is  obvious  enough,  and  is  generally  sufficiently  well  carried  out.  Only  very  often  in 
minor  appliances,  the  want  of  the  feeling  for  appropriateness  makes  itself  felt.  A  coal- 
scuttle is  an  excellent  and  useful  thing  in  its  way,  and  in  its  appropriate  place,  but 
why  have  it  in  miniature  on  our  tables,  and  scoop  salt  or  sugar  out  of  it  ?  Wheel  barrows, 
and  buckets,  rink-skates  and  perambulators,  used  for  similar  purposes  are  really  less  con- 
venient than  a  small  dish  or  bowl  really  designed  for  use,  without  any  ulterior  notion 
of  ingenuity  or  conceit.  A  tea-kettle  in  the  form  of  a  drum,  with  the  sticks  for 
handles;  a  toast-rack  formed  of  wreaths  of  ivy  (what  has  ivy  to  do  with  toast?),  or  rifles 
piled  up  in  a  very  unmilitary  manner  ;  a  biscuit-box  in  the  shape  of  a  coal-box  ;  gilt 
chain  cabhs  for  holding  back  curtains;  are  examples  of  the  same  thing  that  occur  to  me, 
but  a  large  and  very  astonishing  list  could  very  soon  be  collected.  It  is  true  as  Mr.  Morris 
says,  that  the  best  designed  and  constructed  things  in  a  house  are  generally  found  in  the 
kitchen  ;  but  that  is  because  they  fulfill  their  use,  and  are  appropriate  to  their  place, 
both  of  which  qualities  they  lose  when  transported  to  the  drawing-room. 

Now  the  third  requirement,  which  in  its  application  is  closely  connected  with  the 
second.  All  things  of  common  use  have  their  appropriate  form,  which,  when  once  dis- 
covered, should  be  used  and  repeated  without  disguise.  Thus  a  salt-cellar  is  most  really 
convenient  when  made  of  glass,  of  a  simple  oblong  shape,  so  as  not  to  be  easily  upset, 
that  the  spoon  may  comfortably  rest  in  it,  and  the  salt  be  easily  renewed;  and  there  are 
many  modifications  of  'form,  and  even  color,  that  might  be  introduced  without  hinder- 
ing use  in  any  way,  or  making  the  thing  seem  other  than  it  is  ;  and  so  may  this  principle 
be  carried  out  indefinitely;  and  I  cannot  see,  except  for  the  love  of  novelty  and  pretentious 
conceit,  why  anything  more  should  be  wanted.  It  cannot  be  a  very  lasting  pleasure  to 
shake  pepper  out  of  an  owl's  head,  or  help  yourself  to  butter  out  of  a  bee-hive  ;  but  it  is  a 
lasting  pleasure  to  have  a  thoroughly  useful  and  soundly  constructed  thing  made  out  of  a 
right  and  good  material,  appearing  in  its  appropriate  place,  and  declaring  and  fulfilling  its 
proper  use  and  office. 

The  chief  materials  of  which  our  household  goods  are  made — wood,  stone,  metals, 
glass,  china — differ  widely  in  quality  of  texture  and  substance. 

It  is  a  very  common  objection  to  what  are  called  artistic  colors  to  say  that  they  are 
gloomy,  dismal,  and  unbecoming.  If  this  is  true  of  any  particular  shade,  the  fact  would 
merely  go  to  prove  that  it  is  not  a  color  properly  so-called,  but  some  muddy  confusion  of 
tints,  mistaken  for  an  artistic  color  for  want  of  a  right  apprehension — and  it  owes  its 
existence  to  a  foregone  conclusion  that  everything  heavy  and  dull  must  be  artistic. 

Delicacy  of  effect  is  gained  by  suiting  exactly  the  color  to  the  material.     To  muslin  and 


ART   AT    HOME.  17 

such  like  filmy  substances  full  bright  tints  are  most  unsuitable  ;  pale  tender  hues,  and  light 
tracery  of  pattern  belong  to  them  ;  still  delicacy  in  these  does  not  involve  insipidity,  which 
poverty  of  tone  and  design  would  cause.  For  richer  stuffs,  in  silk  and  satin  and  velvet, 
fuller  hues  are  quite  suitable.  The  shimmer,  the  shifting  of  lights  and  shadows,  the  bloom 
of  the  texture  modifies  the  effect  of  a  full  color  which  in  a  dull  common  stuff  would  be  flat 
and  heavy. 

It  is  a  immemorial  custom  that  dining-room  curtains  should  be  red,  with  leather  chairs, 
red  tablecloth,  and  Turkey  carpet  in  which  red  prevails.  There  is  not  much  variety  in 
this  time-honored  fashion;  nor  is  there  sometimes  in  the  manifestations  of  the  new.  I  saw 
a  drawing-room  the  other  day  with  a  peacock  feather  patterned  wall-paper,  dado  and  wood 
work  of  peacock  blue,  and  curtains  and  chair-coverings  of  peacock  patterned  chintz,  ex- 
actly matching  the  wall-paper.  The  result  was  flat  and  monotonous,  in  my  opinion.  Both 
these  are  instances  of  want  of  variety.  I  would  never  recommend  chairs  to  be  covered 
with  stuff  like  the  curtains,  or  the  walls  to  be  like  either.  The  walls  of  the  dining-room 
may  be  a  brownish  yellow,  the  curtains  of  a  mixed  red  and  yellow — the  yellow  a  little 
pinkish;  the  chairs  plain  red,  and  the  carpet  brown  and  yellow  and  red,  and  a  little  green. 
A  great  deal  of  pleasure  can  be  felt  in  the  variety  of  these  tints,  which  nevertheless  pro- 
duce a  unity  of  effect  when  regarded  as  a  whole.  It  is  a  good  rule,  if  the  walls  have 
a  pattern  on  them,  that  the  curtains  should  be  plain,  and  vice  versa;  so  a  dress  should  not 
be  entirely  figured  or  embroidered,  but  only  in  portions,  that  the  design  may  show  all  the 
more  richly.  Red  is  the  color  that  first  attracts  the  untrained  sense.  Green  has  been 
said  to  be  a  color  that  is  only  appreciated  by  cultivated  faculties.  Yellow  is  a  color  of 
which,  I  am  inclined  to  think,  the  best  effects  are  neglected;  it  ought  to  be  more  used 
in  town  houses,  so  as  to  bring  a  little  artificial  sunlight  into  them.  It  cannot  be  used  in 
masses,  but  must  be  broken  and  mingled  with  other  colors.  Yellow  and  white  are  as 
agreeable  in  their  way  as  blue  and  white.  Mixed  shades  of  yellow  and  white  and  a  little 
myrtle  green  form  a  pleasing  combination.  Now  as  blue  is  called  cold,  so  is  yellow  said 
to  be  warm.  It  is  the  color  of  the  intensest  heat  we  can  imagine — white-heat;  and  as 
blue  cools  and  chills,  yellow  warms  any  color  with  which  it  is  mixed.  Red  being  neutral. 
is  incapable  of  imparting  either  cold  or  warm  effect  to  a  color  to  which  it  is  added  in 
any  proportion.  In  the  prismatic  spectrum,  the  original  type  of  color,  or  the  rainbow,  are 
found  what  are  called  the  three  primary  colors — yellow,  red,  blue.  Between  these,  and 
composed  of  them,  are  the  three  secondary  colors, — orange  made  of  yellow  and  red;  pur- 
ple, of  red  and  blue;  green,  of  blue  and  yellow.  Of  the  three  primary  colors — yellow,  red, 
blue — in  various  proportions,  every  hue  in  nature  is  composed — black,  in  which  all  colors 
are  absorbed,  being  at  one  end  of  the  scale,  and  white,  in  which  all  are  reflected,  at  the 
other  end  of  it.  Between  the  two,  the  variations  may  be  considered  infinite.  Some  sci- 
entific calculation  numbers  thirty  thousand;  but  I  could  easily  believe  them  to  be  twice 
as  many. 

Blue  is  the  only  color  that  can  be  obtained  in  a  perfectly  pure  form.  Ultramarine — the 
type  of  purity,  the  color  of  the  Virgin  Mary. 


iS  HOME    DISSERTATION'S. 

Never  have  a  color  concentrated  in  one  spot,  but  take  care  to  repeat  it  in  others.  If  you 
have  blue  and  white  chintz  in  one  corner  of  your  room,  put  some  in  another  corner  to 
balance  it.  In  these  ways,  therefore — by  using  either  a  color-analogy,  or  a  color-contrast 
and  observing  delicacy,  variety,  and  repetition,  can  harmonious  arrangement  of  color  be 
brought  together  and  applied.  "It  is  the  best  possible  sign  of  a  color,"  says  Mr.  Ruskin, 
"when  nobody  who  sees  it  knows  what  to  call  it,  or  how  to  give  an  idea  of  it  to  anybody 
else." 

Even  among  simple  hues  the  most  valuable  are  those  which  cannot  be  defined;  the 
most  precious  purples  will  look  brown  beside  pure  purple;  and  the  most  precious  greens 
will  be  called  blue  if  seen  beside  pure  green,  and  green  if  seen  beside  pure  blue.  A  color 
may  be  very  agreeable  in  its  real  nature,  but  lose  all  its  pleasing  qualities  when  wrongly 
combined.  Harmony  not  only  brings  agreeable  tones  together,  but  establishes  an  affinity 
between  them,  both  in  music  and  in  color. 

The  most  striking  effect  of  the  modern  revival  of  taste  is  the  change  of  public  opinion 
it  has  effected  with  regard  to  color — a  change  from  coldness  and  rawness  to  tone  and 
warmth.  And  if  we  compare  the  magenta,  the  mauve,  the  emerald  green  of  a  dozen  years 
ago,  with  the  tints  that  are  now  the  mode,  we  shall  see  that  the  wide  difference  between 
their  effect  on  the  color  sense  is  owing  to  the  adoption  in  the  latter  of  warm  yellow  tones 
instead  of  cold  blue  ones,  such  as  I  have  described. 

"  There  are  not  many  tints,"  says  Mr.  Morris,  "fit  to  color  a  wall  with.  Here  is  a 
short  list :  a  solid  red  not  very  deep,  but  rather  describable  as  a  full  pink,  and  toned  both 
with  yellow  and  blue,  a  very  fine  color  if  you  can  hit  it;  a  light  orangy  pink,  to  be  used 
rather  sparingly,  a  pale  golden  tint,  /'.  e.,  a  yellowish  brown,  a  very  difficult  color  to  hit; 
and  a  color  between  these  two  last,  call  it  pale  copper  color.  All  these  three  you  must  be 
careful  over,  for  if  you  get  them  muddy  or  dirty  you  are  lost." 

As  the  beauty  of  glass  consists  in  its  transparency  and  lightness,  and  its  capability  of 
being  twisted,  or  blown,  or  moulded  into  a  multitude  of  delicate  forms,  it  early  occurred 
to  the  manufacturing  mind  that,  if  made  thick  and  solid  and  cut  in  facets,  it  would  re- 
semble crystal;  and  thus  it  has  come  to  be  a  fixed  idea  that  hard  glitter  is  its  most  valu- 
able quality,  and  so  it  is  made  inches  thick,  and  pounds  heavy,  to  enhance  its  brilliancy; 
and,  being  one  of  the  most  fragile  of  substances,  it  must  be  engraved  with  people's  crests 
and  monograms,  as  if  it  were  intended  to  carry  down  the  name  of  the  family  for  genera- 
tions to  come  !  Being  of  its  nature  transparent,  it  must  be  rendered  opaque  of  set  inten- 
tion by  coloring  matters,  and  then  painted  and  gilded  !  Since,  at  the  strongest,  glass  can 
never  be  anything  but  fragile,  at  least  let  it  keep  the  beauty  belonging  to  fragility;  since 
it  is  naturally  transparent,  let  the  light  be  seen  streaming  through  it,  sometimes  delicately 
tinted,  sometimes  iridescent;  and,  instead  of  being  cut,  let  it  be  blown  and  twisted  into 
the  thousand  delicate  shapes  to  which  it  easily  lends  itself,  and  of  which,  in  the  Vene- 
tian glass  of  a  bygone  day,  and  in  its  present  revival,  there  are  such  delightful  exam- 
ples. 

In  the  word  pottery  is  included  every  species  of  earthenware,  from  the  rudest  cup  of 


ART    AT    HOME. 


burnt  or  baked  clay,  such  as  was  made  a  thousand  years  before  the  Christian  era,  to  the 

finest  Oriental  and  Sevres  of  to-day. 

The  taste  for  blue  and  white  china,  so  great  a  feature  in  modern  decoration,  has  much 

to  excuse  it  within  due  limits.     I   have  never  been   able  to  see  the  fitness  of  hanging 

detached  plates, — however  unique  and  valu- 
able— on  walls,  as  if  they  were  pictures;  but 
on  a  shelf  or  ledge  where  plates  can  be 
arranged  in  a  row,  the  cool,  clean  color 
of  the  older  Oriental,  or  even  Delf,  is  very 
refreshing  and  pleasant  to  the  eye.  With- 
out pretending  to  connoisseurship  in  marks, 
and  periods,  and  processes,  we  may  easily 
learn  to  distinguish  between  poor  imitations, 
and  original  and  good  objects  in  pottery — 


between  Chinese  and  Japanese,  between  early  and  late  works  in  both,  and  among  the 
most  marked  English  kinds,  Wedgewood,  Worcester,  Chelsea,  Derby,  and  so  on,  so  to 
use  the  most  decorative. 


20  HOME    DISSERTATIONS. 

Emerson  says  of  Art:  '•'  Because  the  soul  is  progressive,  it  never  quite  repeats  itselL. 
but  in  every  act  attempts  the  production  of  a  new  and  fairer  whole.  This  appears  in 
works  both  of  the  useful  and  the  fine  arts,  if  we  employ  the  popular  distinction  of  works 
according  to  their  aim  either  at  use  or  beauty.  Thus  in  our  fine  arts,  not  imitation,  but 
creation,  is  the  aim. 

It  is  a  rule  of  largest  application,  true  in  a  plant,  true  in  a  loaf  of  bread,  that  in  the 
construction  of  any  fabric  or  organism,  any  real  increase  of  fitness  to  its  end,  is  an 
increase  of  beauty. 

Hence  our  taste  in  building  rejects  paint,  and  all  shifts,  and  shows  the  original  g.:ain 
of  the  wood:  refuses  pilasters  and  columns  that  support  nothing,  and  allows  the  real  sup- 
porters of  the  house  honestly  to  show  themselves. 

We  ascribe  beauty  to  that  which  is  simple  ;  which  has  no  superfluous  parts  ;  which 
exactly  answers  its  end  ;  which  stands  related  to  all  things  ;  which  is  the  mean  of  many 
extremes. — Beauty  rides  on  a  lion.  Beauty  rests  on  necessities.  The  line  of  beauty  is  the 
result  of  perfect  economy.  The  cell  of  the  bee  is  built  at  that  angle  which  gives  the  most 
strength  with  the  least  wax  ;  the  bone  or  the  quill  of  the  bird  gives  the  most  alar  strength 
with  the  least  weight.  "  It  is  the  purgation  of  superfluities,"  said  Michael  Angelo. 

Veracity  first  of  ail,  and  forever.  Rien  de  beau  que  le  vrai.  In  all  designs,  art  lies  in 
making  your  object  prominent,  but  there  is  a  prior  art  in  choosing  objects  that  are  promi- 
nent. The  fine  arts  have  nothing  casual,  but  spring  from  the  instincts  of  the  nations  that 
created  them. 

Still  Beauty  rides  on  her  lion,  as  before.    Still,  "it  was  for  beauty  that  the  world  was  made. " 

But  the  sovereign  attribute  remains  to  be  noted.  Things  are  pretty,  graceful,  rich, 
elegant,  handsome,  but,  until  they  speak  to  the  imagination,  not  yet  beautiful. 

Let  us  understand,  then,  that  a  house  shall  bear  witness  in  all  its  economy  that  human 
culture  is  the  end  to  which  it  is  built  and  garnished. 

Honor  to  the  house  where  they  are  simple  to  the  verge  of  hardship,  so  that  there  the 
intellect  is  awake  and  reads  the  laws  of  the  universe,  the  soul  worships  truth  and  love, 
honor  and  courtesy  flow  into  all  deeds. 

The  ornament  of  a  house  is  the  friends  who  frequent  it.     There  is  no  event  greater 
in  life  than  the  appearance  of  new  persons  about  our  hearth,  except  it  be  the  progress  of 
the  character  which  draws  them.     It  has  been  finally  added  by  Landor  to  his  definition  of 
'the  great  man, "  It  is  he  who  can  call  together  the  most  select  company  when  it  pleases  him." 
Beyond  its  primary  ends  of  the  conjugal,  parental,  and  amicable  relations,  the  house- 
hold should  cherish  the  beautiful  arts  and  the  sentiments  of  veneration. 

Whatever  brings  the  dweller  into  a  finer  life,  what  educates  his  eye,  or  ear,  or  hand, 
whatever  purifies  and  enlarges  him,  may  well  find  place  there.  And  yet  let  him  not 
think  that  a  property  in  beautiful  object1;  is  necessary  to  his  apprehension  of  them,  and 
seek  to  turn  his  house  into  a  museum.  Rather  let  the  noble  practice  of  the  Greeks  find 
place  in  our  society,  and  let  the  creations  of  the  plastic  arts  be  collected  with  care  in 
galleries  by  the  piety  and  taste  of  the  people,  and  yielded  as  freely  as  the  sunlight  to  all. 


ART    AT    HOME. 


Meantime,  be  it  remembered,  we  are  artists  ourselves,  and  competitors,  each  one 
with  Phidias  and  Raphael  in  the  production  of  what  is  graceful  and  grand.  The 
fountain  of  beauty  is  the  heart,  and  every  generous  thought  illustrates  the  walls  of 
your  chambers." 


THE     HEARTH-STONE. 


BLoW  •  HIGH  •  BLoW  •  Low  •  NoT 

THE  •  WINDS  •  THAT  •  EVER  •  BL°W  •  CAN 

QVENCH  •  oVR  •  HEARTH  -  FIRES  •  RVDDy  •  GL°W. 

Where  thou  find'st  fires  unraked  and  hearths  unswept, 
There  pinch  the  maids  as  blue  as  bilberry.  —  SHAKESPEARE. 

VESTA  was  the  goddess  of  the  household  hearth,  or  rather  the  fire  burning  on 
the  hearth.  As,  according  to  the  old  heathen  custom,  all  men  were  regarded 
as  enemies  unless  by  a  special  compact  they  had  been  made  friends,  so  Vesta 
presided  especially  over  true  and  faithful  dealing  ;  and  as  the  household  was  the  centre 
of  all  kindly  affections,  she  was  represented  as  always  pure  and  undefiled. 

The  influence  of  Vesta  was  perhaps  more  deeply  felt,  and  wrought  more  good,  than 
any  other  Olympian  deity.  Her  worship  involved  direct  and  practical  duties.  She 
could  not  be  fitly  served  by  men  who  broke  their  plighted  word,  or  dealt  treacherously 
with  those  whom  they  had  received  at  their  hearth  ;  and  thus  her  worship  was  almost  an 
unmixed  good,  both  for  households  and  for  the  State. 

The  word  vesta  is  often  put  for  fire  itself,  for  it  is  derived  from  a  Greek  word  which 
signifies  a  chimney,  a  house,  or  household  goods.  She  is  esteemed  the  president  and 
guardian  of  houses,  and  one  of  the  household  deities,  not  without  reason,  since  she 
invented  the  art  of  building  houses:  and  therefore  an  image  of  Vesta,  to  which  they  sac- 
rificed every  day,  was  placed  before  the  doors  of  the  houses  in  Rome,  and  the  places 
where  these  statues  were  set  up  were  cal/ed  vestibula,  from  Vesta. 

A  perpetual  fire  was  kept  in  her  temple,  among  the  sacred  pledges  of  the  empire;  not 
upon  an  altar,  or  in  the  chimneys,  but  in  earthen  vessels  hanging  in  the  air,  which  the 
vestal  virgins  tended  with  so  much  care,  that  if  by  chance  this  fire  was  extinguished,  all 
public  and  private  business  was  interrupted,  and  a  vacation  proclaimed  till  they  had 
expiated  the  unhappy  prodigy  with  incredible  pains;  and  if  it  appeared  that  the  virgins 
were  the  occasion  of  its  going  out,  by  carelessness,  they  were  severely  punished.  In 
recompense  for  this  severe  law,  the  vestals  obtained  extraordinary  privileges  and  respect; 
they  had  the  most  honored  seats  at  games  and  festivals;  the  consuls  and  magistrates  gave 
way  whenever  they  met  them;  their  declarations  in  trials  were  admitted  without  the  form 
of  an  oath;  and  if  they  happened  to  encounter  in  their  path  a  criminal  going  to  the  place 
of  execution,  he  immediately  obtained  his  pardon. 

Upon  the  calends  of  March,  every  year,  though  it  was  not  extinguished,  they  used  to 
renew  it,  with  no  other  fire  than  that  which  was  produced  by  the  rays  of  the  sun. 

A  portion  of  the  sacred  fire  of  Vesta  was  carried  away  by  the  colonists,  to  be  kept 

22 


VESTA. 


24  HOME    DISSERTATIONS. 

alive  forever  in  their  new  home;  and  as  long  as  this  fire  continued  burning,  they  felt  they 
had  a  common  interest  with  the  citizens  of  their  old  country. 

"It  was  supposed  that  in  the  centre  of  the  earth  there  was  a  hearth  which  answered  to 
the  hearth  placed  in  the  centre  of  the  whole  universe." 

Lucy  Crane  says:  "The  one  indispensable  stone  in  every  room  of  the  house — the  hearth- 
stone— is,  in  most  old-fashioned  houses,  of  marble,  easily  kept  clean  by  washing;  when  it  came 
to  be  made  of  inferior  stone,  whitening  was  used  at  the  edges,  and  black-lead  under  and  about 
the  grate.  In  fire-places  of  this  kind,  instead  of  these,  I  would  recommend  reddening, 
which  has  an  excellent  effect  with  brass  fender,  and  fireirons,  and  the  red  ochre  for  the 
purpose  can  be  got  everywhere  and  applied  just  as  easily  as  whitening  or  black-lead.  As 
all  the  interest  and  home  feelings  of  a  house  collect  about  the  fireside,  in  our  climate,  in 
which  winter  holds  us  half  the  year, — a  fire  being,  as  Dr.  Johnson  said,  "a  living  thing  in 
a  dead  room," — it  will  be  worth  while  to  consider  it  in  other  respects  carefully. 

The  earlier  household  fires  were  made  on  an  open  hearth  of  logs  of  wood  piled  on  iron 
supports  called  dogs,  which  at  their  ends  fronting  the  room,  were  ornamented  with  figures 
and  devices  of  wrought  metal.  As  coal  became  more  commonly  used, — being  found 
capable  of  containing  greater  heat  in  a  smaller  compass, — a  sort  of  basket  grate  was  made 
to  contain  it.  In  most  cases  the  open  fireplace  is  a  great  black  hole  in  our  rooms,  only 
tolerable  when  there  is  a  fire  burning  in  it,  and  anything  we  can  do  to  moderate  the  black- 
ness is  a  benefit,  such  as  to  redden  the  hearth  in  the  way  I  have  mentioned,  or  still  better, 
to  pave  the  hearth  with  red  tiles — not  tiles  with  patterns  on  them,  as  the  ashes  obscure 
and  spoil  the  effect  of  the  design.  In  summer  great  and  wonderful  efforts  are  in  these 
days  made  to  do  away  with  that  blackness.  I  cannot  think  painted  and  gilded  papers,  or 
lace  bibs  and  aprons,  or  a  heap  of  shavings  garlanded  with  artificial  flowers,  or  even  cur- 
tains or  a  Japanese  umbrella,  really  comfortable  and  appropriate.  The  fireplace  itself  is 
the  root  of  the  difficulty,  which  will  last  until  there  is  a  general  reform.  A  wide  fireplace 
lined  with  patterned  and  colored  tiles, — the  hearth  of  plain  ones,  red  or  brown  or  green, 
— and  the  grate  itself  a  separate  and  detached  object,  capable  of  being  removed,  and  its 
place  in  the  summer  filled  with  plants;  like  the  hearth  in  The  Deserted  Village, 

"With  aspen  boughs,  and  flowers,  and  fennel,  gay." 
This  would  be  an  improvement. 

The  uselessness  is  obvious,  in  every  way,  of  the  long-admired  bright  steel  fireirons;  but 
now  it  is  common  to  find  these  things  made  of  more  satisfactory  material  and  shape,  and 
I  think  there  is  little  doubt  that  brass  is  the  most  beautiful  and  convenient  metal  for  them, 
and  for  the  fender  and  the  coal  box  as  well;  it  is  easily  kept  bright,  and  has  a  cheerful 
effect,  always  supposing  these  things  to  be  not  too  large  and  heavy,  and  to  have  as  much 
elegant  shape  and  delicate  detail  as  are  consistent  with  their  use  and  material. 

And  so  we  come  to  a  short  consideration  of  metals.  Brass  candlesticks,  inkstands, 
chandeliers,  and  sconces  are  new  to  be  had  of  simple  and  elegant  shapes,  many  being 
reproductions  of  some  of  the  old  good  work;  and  if,  in  the  same  room  with  these,  the  door- 
plates,  and  handles,  and  bell-pulls,  are  of  wrought  brass-work  too,  the  general  effect  is  so 


THE    HEARTH-STONEr  25 

much  the  better,  as  the  eye  is  pleased  with  the  repetition  of  the  brightness  in  various 
forms. 

How  charmingly  Leigh  Hunt  has  written:  "  My  fire  has  been  left  to  itself:  it  has  full 
room  to  breathe  and  to  blaze,  and  I  can  poke  it  as  I  please.  What  recollections  does  that 
idea  excite  ? — Poke  it  as  I  please !  Think,  benevolent  reader, — think  of  the  pride  and 
pleasure  of  having  in  your  hand  that  awful,  but  at  the  same  time  artless,  weapon,  a  poker, 
— of  putting  it  into  the  proper  bar,  gently  levering  up  the  coals,  and  seeing  the  instant  and 
bustling  flame  above  !  To  what  can  I  compare  that  moment  ?  That  sudden,  empyreal 
enthusiam  ?  That  fiery  expression,  vivification  ?  That  ardent  acknowledgment,  as  it  were, 
of  the  kindliness  of  the  operator  ? " 

The  utility,  as  well  as  beauty,  of  the  fire  during  breakfast,  need  not  be  pointed  out  to 
the  most  unphlogistic  observer.  A  person  would  rather  be  shivering  at  any  time  of  the 
day  than  at  that  of  his  first  rising ;  the  transition  would  be  too  unnatural, — he  is  not  pre- 
pared for  it.  If  you  eat  plain  bread  and  butter  with  your  tea,  it  is  fit  that  your  modera- 
tion should  be  rewarded  with  a  good  blaze;  and  if  you  indulge  in  hot  rolls  or  toast,  you 
will  hardly  keep  them  to  their  warmth  without  it,  particularly  if  you  read;  and  then, -if  you 
take  in  a  newspaper,  what  a  delightful  change  from  the  wet,  raw,  dabbing  fold  of  paper 
when  you  first  touch  it,  to  the  dry,  crackling,  crisp  superficies  which,  with  a  skillful  spat 
of  the  finger-nails  at  its  upper  end,  stands  at  once  in  your  hand,  and  looks  as  if  it  said, 
"Come  read  me."  Nor  is  it  the  look  of  the  newspaper  only  which  the  fire  must  render 
complete:  it  is  the  interest  of  the  ladies  who  happen  to  form  part  of  your  family, — of  your 
wife  in  particular,  if  you  have  one, — to  avoid  the  niggling  and  pinching  aspect  of  cold;  it 
takes  away  the  harmony  of  her  features,  and  the  graces  of  her  behavior;  while,  on  the 
other  hand,  there  is  scarcely  a  more  interesting  sight  in  the  world  than  that  of  a  neat, 
delicate,  good-humored  woman  presiding  at  your  breakfast-table,  with  hands  tapering  out 
of  her  long  sleeves,  eyes  with  a  touch  of  Sir  Peter  Lely  in  them,  face  a  little  oval  and  retain- 
ing a  certain  tinge  of  the  pillow  without  its  cloudiness.  This  is,  indeed,  the  finishing  grace 
of  a  fireside. 

The  evening  is  beginning  to  gather  in.  The  window,  which  presents  a  large  face  of 
watery  gray,  intersected  by  strong  lines,  is  imperceptibly  becoming  darker;  and  as  that 
becomes  darker,  the  fire  assumes  a  more  glowing  presence.  The  contemplatist  keeps  his 
easy  posture,  absorbed  in  his  fancies;  and  everything  around  him  is  still  and  serene.  The 
stillness  would  even  ferment  in  his  ear,  and  whisper,  as  it  were,  of  what  the  air  contained; 
but  a  minute  coil,  just  sufficient  to  hinder  that  busier  silence,  clicks  in  the  burning  coal, 
while  every  now  and  then  the  light  ashes  shed  themselves  below,  or  a  stronger,  but  still  a 
gentle,  flame  flutters  up  with  a  gleam  over  the  chimney.  At  length,  the  darker  objects  in 
the  room  mingle;  the  gleam  of  the  fire  streaks  with  a  restless  light  the  edges  of  the  furni- 
ture, and  reflects  itself  in  the  blackening  window;  while  his  feet  take  a  gentle  move  on  the 
fender,  and  then  settle  again,  and  his  face  comes  out  of  the  general  darkness,  earnest  even 
in  indolence,  and  pale  in  the  very  ruddiness  of  what  it  looks  upon.  This  is  the  only  time, 
perhaps,  at  which  sheer  idleness  is  salutary  and  refreshing. 


26  HOME  DISSERTATIONS. 

How  observed  with  the  smallest  effort  is  every  trick  and  aspect  of  the  fire!  A  coal  fall- 
ing in,  a  fluttering  flame,  a  miniature  mockery  of  a  flash  of  lightning,  nothing  escapes  the 
eye  and  the  imagination.  Sometimes  a  little  flame  appears  at  the  corner  of  the  grate  like  a 
quivering  spangle;  sometimes  it  swells  out  at  top  into  a  restless  brief  lambency;  anon  it  is 
seen  only  by  the  light  beneath  the  grate,  or  it  curls  aronnd  one  of  the  bars  like  a  tongue, 
or  darts  out  with  a  spiral  thinness  and  a  sulphurous  and  continued  puffing  as  from  a  reed. 
The  glowing  coals  meantime  exhibit  the  shifting  forms  of  hills  and  vales  and  gulfs, — of 
fiery  Alps,  whose  heat  is  uninhabitable  even  by  spirit,  or  of  black  precipices,  from  which 
swart  fairies  seem  about  to  spring  away  on  sable  wings;  the  heat  and  fire  are  forgotten, 
and  walled  towns  appear,  and  figures  of  unknown  animals,  and  far  distant  countries 
scarcely  to  be  reached  by  human  journey;  then  coaches  and  camels,  and  barking  dogs  as 
large  as  either,  and  forms  that  combine  every  shape  and  suggest  every  fancy,  till  at  last 
the  ragged  coals  tumbling  together,  reduce  the  vision  to  chaos,  and  the  huge  profile  of  a 
gaunt  and  grinning  face  seems  to  make  a  jest  of  all  that  has  passed. 

The  entrance  of  a  single  candle  dissipates  at  once  the  twilight  and  the  sunshine,  and 
the  ambitious  dreamer  is  summoned  to  his  tea! 

Where  the  fire  is  duly  appreciated,  whether  the  party  be  large  or  small,  young  or  old, 
talkative  or  contemplative.  If  there  is  music,  a  good  fire  will  be  particularly  grateful  to 
the  performers,  who  are  often  seated  at  the  farther  end  of  the  room. 

This  is  the  finished  evening;  this  the  quickener  at  once  and  calmer  of  tired  thought; 
this  the  spot  where  our  better  spirits  await  to  exalt  and  enliven  us,  when  the  daily  and 
vulgar  ones  have  discharged  their  duty. 

Bright  fires  and  joyous  faces;  and  it  is  no  easy  thing  for  philosophy  to  say  good-night. 
But  health  must  be  enjoyed  or  nothing  will  be  enjoyed,  and  the  charm  should  be  broken 
at  a  reasonable  hour. 

Far  be  it,  however,  from  a  rational  firesider  not  to  make  exceptions  to  the  rule,  when 
friends  have  been  long  asunder,  when  some  domestic  celebration  has  called  them  to- 
gether, or  even  when  hours  peculiarly  congenial  render  it  difficult  to  part.  A  single 
friend,  perhaps,  loiters  behind  the  rest;  you  are  alone  in  the  house;  you  have  just  got 
upon  a  subject  delightful  to  you  both;  the  fire  is  of  a  candent  brightness;  the  wind  howls 
out  of  doors;  the  rain  beats;  the  cold  is  piercing!  Sit  down.  This  is  a  time  when  the 
most  melancholy  temperament  may  defy  the  clouds  and  storms,  and  even  extract  from 
them  a  pleasure  that  will  take  no  substance  by  daylight.  Even  when  left  alone,  there  is 
sometimes  a  charm  in  watching  out  the  decaying  fire.  The  world  around  is  silent;  and 
for  a  moment  the  very  cares  of  day  seem  to  have  gone  with  it  to  sleep, — then,  for  imag- 
ination's sake,  not  for  superstition's,  are  recalled  the  stories  of  the  Secret  World  and  the 
midnight  pranks  of  Fairyism.  Presently  the  whole  band  of  fairies,  ancient  and  modern, 
— the  demons,  sylphs,  gnomes,  sprites,  elves,  peris,  genii,  and  above  all,  the  fairies  of 
the  fireside,  the  salamanders,  lob-lie-by-the-fires,  the  lemures,  larvae,  come  flitting  between 
the  fancy's  eyes,  and  the  dying  coals, — and  Oberon  gives  his  gentle  order: — 

"  Through  this  house  with  glimmering  light  Hop  as  light  as  bird  from  briar; 

By  the  dead  and  drowsy  fire,  And  this  ditty,  after  me, 

Every  elf  and  fairy  sprite  Sing  and  dance  it  trippingly." 


FLOWERS. 

Why  does  not  everybody  have  a  geranium  in  his  window, 
or  some  other  flower?  It  is  very  cheap;  its  cheapness  is 
next  to  nothing,  if  you  raise  it  from  seed  or  from  a  slip; 
and  it  is  a  beauty  and  a  companion.  It  sweetens  the  air, 
rejoices  the  eye,  links  you  with  nature  and  innocence,  and 
is  something  to  love. — LEIGH  HUNT. 

Flowers  are  the  alphabet  of  all  angels — whereby 
They  write  on  hills  and  fields  mysterious  truths. 

A  LOVE  of  flowers  has  always  ranked  among 
the  refined  pleasures  of  a  polished  people. 
Apart  from  cheerful  and  hygenic  consider- 
ations, there  is  a  question  of  ornamentation  in  the 
presence  of  plants  and  flowers  about  your 
^      rooms.     Not  many  of  us  can  afford  con- 
servatories, but  all  of   us,  with  the  sun's 
'    aid,  can  compass  the  window  garden;  and 
what  picture  on  our  walls  is  apt  to 
be   half  so   beautiful   as   a  window 
where  the  sun  is  sifting  through  the 
snow  and   gold    of    tropical-leaved 
>  4     callas;  through  the   geranium   blos- 
soms like  scarlet  fire,  through  the  blue 
lobelia  and  yellow  oxalis,  and  rose, 
and  carnation,  and  the  net  work  of  all 
their  leaves. 

The  window  gardens  enliven  the 
dreary  wastes  of  bricks  and  stone, 
showing  a  marvellous  wealth  of  beau- 
tiful plants  on  its  window-sill,  and 
can  be  made  brilliant  with  flower- 
boxes  in  every  window.  The  favorite 
plants  for  early  spring  are  pansies 
and  daisies  which  send  their  white 
and  pink  blooms  high  above  all  the 
rest.  Later,  scarlet  and  pink  gera- 
niums, yellow  calceolarias,  and  blue 
lobelias,  while  hanging  from  the  boxes 
in  graceful  festoons  aretrailing-vines 


28  HOME    DISSERTATIONS. 

of  English  and  German  ivy  and  nasturtiums  with  crimson  and  golden  blossoms.  Other 
boxes  can  be  arranged  with  a  mass  of  solid  green  and  scarlet — green  ivy  waving  below 
and  scarlet  geraniums  all  of  one  shade  glowing  above. 

The  most  satisfactory  window  gardens  for  the  entire  summer  are  those  where  the 
plants  grow  from  seeds  or  slips.  These  make  their  natural  progress  through  the  season 
and  are  assailed  by  no  premature  blight.  In  the  spring  the  little  seedlings  may  be  seen 
coming  up  out  of  the  soft  earth.  By  June  some  of  them  are  beginning  to  flower,  and  in 
July  and  August  the  little  garden  is  in  a  glory  of  color  with  yellow  coreopsis,  crimson 
petunias  and  verbenas  of  every  tint.  It  is  surprising  how  many  wanderers  from  the 
winged  life  of  the  fields  these  gardens  will  attract — buzzing  bees,  saucy  yellow-jackets, 
and  sometimes  in  June  mornings  bright  butterflies  will  flutter  over  the  flowers. 

It  frequently  happens  that  the  outlook  from  some  particular  room  in  the  house  is  not 
altogether  pleasant,  or  that  the  window  is  so  placed  in  relation  to  the  street  as  that  passers- 
by  can  observe  what  is  going  on  in  the  interior  of  the  room.  In  such  cases  as  these, 
window  gardens  will  be  found  exceedingly  useful  as  well  as  highly  ornamental — the 
plants  forming  a  natural  blind  of  the  most  elegant  description. 

For  interior  decoration,  rooms  may  be  made  beautiful  with  potted  rare  exotics,  or 
simple  flowering  plants,  placed  within  fanciful  jars.  Tulips  massed  in  various  colors,  pre- 
sent a  brilliant  effect.  Primroses  make  lovely  groupings,  while  hyacinths  fill  a  room  with 
beauty  and  fragrance.  Ferns,  small  palms  and  palmettoes  are  imposing  in  Morocco  or 
majolica  pottery,  and  even  a  simple  ivy  placed  on  a  bracket  by  a  window,  without  the  aid 
of  the  sun,  will  wreath  itself  in  beauty  around  a  room. 

Flowers  and  plants  beautify  more  .than  costly  furniture.  Plants  should  be  showered 
once  a  week,  watered  every  day,  occasionally  with  a  dozen  drops  of  ammonia  in  a  pint  of 
water.  Cut  flowers  should  have  the  water  changed  every  day  at  least,  removing  every 
decayed  leaf  as  soon  as  they  show  any  symptoms  of  decay;  and  the  ends  of  the  stems  cut 
off  keeps  them  fresh  longer.  A  more  efficacious  way,  however,  is  to  put  nitrate  of  soda 
into  the  water  every  time  it  is  changed,  which  will  preserve  cut  flowers  in  all  beauty  for 
above  a  fortnight.  Nitrate  of  potash,  that  is,  saltpetre  in  powder,  has  nearly  the  same 
effect  but  it  is  not  quite  as  efficacious.  Too  many  flowers  should  not  be  crowded  together, 
loose  arrangement  is  more  pleasing,  and  the  flowers  remain  fresh  longer.  Vines,  placed 
in  large,  wide-mouthed  bottles  filled  with  water  and  hung  on  the  back  of  pictures,  will 
soon  wreath  themselves  around  the  frames. 

"A  lady  gardener  gathered  a  handful  of  forget-me-nots,  and  to  preserve  them  as  long 
a  period  as  possible,  they  were  put  in  a  large  soup-plate,  filled  with  rain-water.  The 
flowers  were  placed  near  the  window,  to  enjoy  the  advantages  resulting  from  an  abundance 
of  light  and  air,  and  the  water  was  replenished  when  needful.  In  three  weeks,  white, 
thread-like  roots  were  emitted  from  the  portion  of  the  flower-stalk  in  the  water;  and  they 
ultimately  formed  a  thick  net-work  over  the  plate.  The  flowers  remained  quite  fresh, 
and  as  soon  as  the  roots  began  to  run  in  the  water  the  buds  began  to  expand,  and,  up  to 
the  middle  of  November,  the  bouquet  was  a  dense  mass  of  flowers,  and  a  more  beautiful 
or  chaste  ornament  cannot  be  imagined." 


WIFE. 

"  She  looketh  well  to  the  ways  of  her  household,  and  eateth  rot 
the  bread  of  idleness. 

"  Her  children  arise  up,  and  call  her  blessed;  her  husband  also, 
and  he  praiseth  her." — PROVERBS,  xxxi.,  27,  28. 

«\  T   7 HAT  do  you  think  the  beautiful  word  'wife'  comes  from?"  asks  Ruskin.     "Il 

\f  V/  is  the  great  word  in  which  the  English  and  Latin  languages  conquered  the 
French  and  Greek.  I  hope  the  French  will  some  day  get  a  word  for  it  instead 
of  that  dreadful  word  femme.  But  what  do  you  think  it  comes  from  ?  The  great  value  of 
the  Saxon  words  is  they  mean  something.  Wife  means  weaver.  You  must  be  either 
housewives  or  housemoths;  remember  that.  In  the  deep  sense,  you  may  either  weave 
men's  fortunes  and  embroider  them,  or  feed  upon  and  bring  them  to  decay. 

Wherever  a  true  wife  comes,  home  is  always  around  her.  The  stars  may  be  over  her 
head — the  glow-worm  in  the  night-cold  grass  may  be  the  fire  at  her  foot;  but  home  is 
where  she  is;  and  for  a  noble  woman  it  stretches  far  around  her,  better  than  houses 
ceiled  with  cedar  or  painted  with  vermillion,  shedding  its  quiet  light  far  for  those  who 
else  are  homeless.  This  I  believe  to  be  the  woman's  true  place  and  power." 

Every  woman  has  a  mission  on  earth.  There  is  "something  to  do"  for  every  one — a 
household  to  put  in  order,  a  child  to  attend  to,  some  degraded  or  homeless  humanity  to 
befriend.  That  soul  is  poor  indeed  that  leaves  the  world  without  having  exerted  an  influ- 
ence that  will  be  felt  for  good  after  she  has  passed  away. 

"  What  a  blessing  to  a  household  is  a  merry,  cheerful  wife — one  whose  spirits  are  not 
affected  by  wet  days  or  little  disappointments — one  whose  milk  of  human  kindness  does 
not  grow  sour  in  the  sunshine  of  prosperity !  Such  a  woman,  in  the  darkest  hours, 
brightens  the  house  like  a  piece  of  sunshiny  weather.  The  magnetism  of  her  smiles  and 
the  electrical  brightness  of  her  looks  and  movements  infect  everyone.  The  children  go 
to  school  with  the  sense  of  something  great  to  be  achieved;  the  husband  goes  into  the 
world  in  a  conqueror's  spirit.  No  matter  how  people  annoy  and  worry  him  through  the 
day,  far  off  her  presence  shines,  and  he  whispers  to  himself:  '  At  home  I  shall  find  rest ! ' 
So  day  by  day  she  literally  renews  his  strength  and  energy.  And,  if  you  know  a  man 
with  a  beaming  face,  a  kind  heart,  and  a  prosperous  business,  in  nine  cases  out  of  ten  you 
will  find  he  has  a  wife  of  this  kind." 

Many  a  mother  by  the  quiet  usefulness  of  her  life  fills  her  children  with  a  desire  to  be 
like  her,  that  makes  them  in  their  turn  unselfish.  It  is  not  those  who  talk  about  goodness, 
but  those  who  are  good  that  are  the  light  of  the  world.  It  may  be  ours  only  to  sow  little 
seeds  of  love  and  kindness  in  some  neglected  corner  of  our  surroundings,  or  to  uproot 
from  our  own  hearts  noxious  weeds  which  may  be  thriving  there;  or  it  may  be  our  mission 
only  to  suffer  the  will  of  God.  But,  if  we  be  faithful  in  that  which  is  least,  striving  in 
each  little  moment  to  know  and  do  God's  will  concerning  it  and  us,  ours  may  be  a 
record  of  more  perfect  days,  and  we  shall  obtain  an  enduring  crown, — a  crown  far  more 

29 


3° 


HOME    DISSERTATIONS. 


bright  and  beautiful  than  ever  rested  on  the  head  of  an  earthly  monarch.  "We  cannot 
too  honestly  study  to  know  ourselves.  But  we  should  also  aim  to  look  out  of  ourselves  up 
to  greater  and  better  models,  and  aim  at  being  like  them.  When  self-examination  is 
carried  too  far,  it  does  harm  in  various  ways — perhaps  by  excessive  self-condemnation  for 
not  coming  up  to  a  supposed  standard,  perhaps  by  hypocritical  pretensions  to  a  certain 
unnatural  sanctimoniousness.  A  sound  religion  is  eminently  conducive  to  that  peace  and 
tranquillity  of  the  mind  which  favor  sanity  and  sobriety — it  makes  prosperity  safe  by  teach- 
ing its  dependence  on  God  and  on  the  doing  of  that  which  is  right  and  true;  and  it  makes 
adversity  bearable  by  pointing  out  that  it  is  temporary,  and  if  patiently  and  piously  borne, 
'  will  work  out  good.'  " 

Oliver  Wendell  Holmes  says:  "  You  talk  of  the  fire  of  genius.  Many  a  blessed  woman, 
who  dies  unsung  and  unremembered,  has  given  out  more  of  the  real  vital  heat  that  keeps 
the  life  in  human  souls,  without  a  spark  flitting  through  her  humble  chimney  to  tell  the 
world  about  it,  than  would  set  a  dozen  theories  smoking,  or  a  hundred  odes  simmering  in 
the  brains  of  so  many  men  of  genius. 


Mr.  Cross  says  of 
to  women,  and  to  raise 
thought,  could  best  be 
amateurs.  But  it  was 


George  Eliot:  "  She  was  keenly  alive  to  redress  injustices 
their    general    status   in   the    community.       This,   she 
effected  by  women  improving  their  work — ceasing  to  be 
one  of  the  most  distinctly  marked  traits  of  her  character 
that  she  particularly  disliked  everything  generally  asso- 
ciated with  the  idea  of  a  '  masculine  woman.'     She  was, 
and  as  a  woman  wished  to  be,  above  all  things,  feminine 
— 'so  delicate  with  her  needle,  and  an  admirable  musi- 
cian.'     She  was  proud,  too,  of  being  an  excellent  house- 
keeper— an  excellence  attained  from  knowing  how  things 
ought  to  be  done,  from  her  earliest  training,  and  from  an 
inborn  habit  of  extreme  orderliness.  Nothing 
jf!?:,.,      offended  her  more  than  the  idea  that  because 
r.  woman  had  exceptional  intellectual  powers, 
therefore  it  was  right   that  she  should  ab- 
solve herself,  or  be  absolved,  from  her 
ordinary  household  duties."  "  Happy 
the    house  in  which  character   mar- 
ries, and  not  confusion  and  a  miscel- 
lany of  unavowable  motives.    Then 
shall  marriage  be  a  covenant  to  secure 
to  either   party   the    sweetness    and 
honor  of  being  a  calm,  continuing,  in- 
evitable benefactor  to  the  other." 

She  layeth  her  hands  to  the  spindle,  and  her  hands  hold  the  distaff. 

PROVERBS  xxxi.,  19. 


MANNERS. 

Life  is  not  so  short  but  that  there  is  always  time  enough 
for  courtesy. 

Good  manners  are  made  up  of  petty  sacrifices. 

I  THINK  Hans  Andersen's  story  of  the  cobweb  cloth  woven  so  fine  it  was  invisible, — 
woven  for  the  king's  garment, — must  mean  manners,  which  do  really  clothe  a  princely 
nature.  Such  a  one  can  well  go  in  a  blanket,  if  he  would.  In  the  gymnasium  or  on 
the  sea-beach  his  superiority  does  not  leave  him.  But  he  who  has  not  this  fine  garment 
of  behavior  is  studious  of  dress,  and  then  not  less  of  house,  and  furniture,  and  pictures, 
and  gardens,  in  all  which  he  hopes  to  lie  perdu,  and  not  be  exposed. 

Much  ill-natured  criticism  has  been  directed  on  American  manners.  I  do  not  think 
it  is  to  be  resented.  Rather,  if  we  are  wise,  we  shall  listen  and  mend.  But  in  every 
sense  the  subject  of  manners  has  a  constant  interest  to  thoughtful  persons.  Who  does 
not  delight  in  fine  manners  ?  Their  charm  cannot  be  predicted  or  over-stated.  'Tis 
perpetual  promise  of  more  than  can  be  fulfilled.  It  is  music  and  sculpture  and  pictures 
to  many  who  do  not  pretend  to  appreciation  of  those  arts.  It  is  even  true  that  grace  is 
more  beautiful  than  beauty.  Yet  how  impossible  to  overcome  the  obstacle  of  an  unlucky 
temperament,  and  acquire  good  manners,  unless  by  living  with  the  well-bred  from  the 
start;  and  this  makes  the  value  of  wise  forethought  to  give  ourselves  and  our  children  as 
much  as  possible  the  habit  of  cultivated  society.  'Tis  an  inestimable  hint  that  I  owe  to  a 
few  persons  of  fine  manners,  that  they  make  behavior  the  very  first  sign  of  force, — be- 
havior, and  not  performance,  or  talent,  or,  much  less,  wealth. 

"  Manners  are  stronger  than  laws."  'Tis  a  rule  of  manners  not  to  exaggerate.  A  lady 
loses  as  soon  as  she  admires  too  easily  and  too  much.  In  man  or  woman,  the  face  and 
the  person  lose  power  when  they  are  on  the  strain  to  express  admiration.  A  man  makes 
his  inferiors  his  superiors  by  heat.  Why  need  you,  who  are  not  a  gossip,  talk  as  a  gossip, 
and  tell  eagerly  what  the  neighbors  or  the  journals  say? 

State  your  opinion  without  apology.  The  attitude  is  the  main  point,  assuring  your 
companion  that,  come  good  news  or  come  bad,  you  remain  in  good  heart  and  good  mind, 
which  is  the  best  news  you  can  possibly  communicate.  Self-control  is  the  rule.  You  have 
in  you  there  a  noisy,  sensual  savage  which  you  are  to  keep  down,  and  turn  all  his  strength 
to  beauty.  For  example,  what  a  seneschal  and  detective  is  laughter !  It  seems  to  require 
several  generations  of  education  to  train  a  squeaking  or  a  shouting  habit  out  of  a  man. 
Sometimes,  when  in  almost  all  expressions  the  Choctavv  and  the  slave  have  been  worked 
out  of  him,  a  coarse  nature  still  betrays  itself  in  his  contemptible  squeals  of  joy.  It  is 
necessary  for  the  purification  of  drawing-rooms,  that  these  entertaining  explosions  should 
be  under  strict  control.  Lord  Chesterfield  had  early  made  this  discovery,  for  he  says:  "I 
am  sure  that  since  I  had  the  use  of  my  reason,  no  human  being  has  ever  heard  me  laugh." 
I  know  that  there  go  two  to  this  game,  and  in  the  presence  of  certain  formidable  wits, 
savage  nature  must  sometimes  rush  out  in  some  disorder. 

If  a  man  have  manners  and  talent  he  may  dress  roughly  and  carelessly.  It  is  only  when 

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32  HOME    DISSERTATIONS. 

mind  and  character  slumber  that  the  dress  can  be  seen.  If  the  intellect  were  always  awake, 
and  every  noble  sentiment,  the  man  might  go  in  huckaback  or  mats,  and  his  dress  would 
be  admired  and  imitated.  Remember  George  Herbert's  maxim:  "  This  coat  with  my  dis- 
cretion will  be  brave."  If,  however,  a  man  has  not  firm  nerves,  and  has  keen  sensibilities, 
it  is  perhaps  a  wise  economy  to  go  to  a  good  shop  and  dress  himself  irreproachably.  He 
can  then  dismiss  all  care  from  his  mind,  and  may  easily  find  that  performance  an  addition 
of  confidence,  a  fortification  that  turns  the  scale  in  social  encounters,  and  allows  him  to  go 
gaily  into  conversations  where  else  he  had  been  dry  and  embarrassed.  I  am  not  ignorant, 
— I  have  heard  with  admiring  submission  the  experience  of  the  lady  who  declared  "that 
the  sense  of  being  perfectly  well  dressed  gives  a  feeling  of  inward  tranquility  which  relig- 
•  ion  is  powerless  to  bestow." 

I  "Courtesy  and  politeness  are  matters  worthy  the  attention  of  even  the  honorable  and 
fortunate,  no  person  whether  private  or  public,  ever  reached  that  lofty  position,  from 
whence  he  could  afford  to  disdain  all  thoughts  of  etiquette  and  manners." 

Our  gentlemen  of  the  old  school,  that  is,  of  the  school  of  Washington,  Adams,  and 
Hamilton,  were  bred  after  English  types,  and  that  style  of  breeding  furnishes  fine 
examples  in  the  last  generation;  but,  though  some  of  us  have  seen  such,  I  doubt  they  are 
all  gone.  But  nature  is  not  poorer  to-day.  With  all  our  haste  and  slipshod  ways,  and 
flippant  self-assertion,  I  have  seen  examples  of  new  grace  and  power  in  address  that  honor 
the  country.  It  was  my  fortune  not  long  ago,  with  my  eyes  directed  on  this  subject,  to 
fall  in  with  an  American  to  be  proud  of.  I  said  never  was  such  force,  good  meaning, 
good  sense,  good  action,  combined  with  such  domestic  lovely  behavior,  such  modesty  and 
persistent  preference  for  others.  The  whole  of  heraldry  and  chivalry  is  in  courtesy. 

Would  we  codify  the  laws  that  should  reign  in  households,  and  whose  daily  transgres- 
sion annoys  and  mortifies  us,  and  degrades  our  household  life, — we  must  learn  to  adorn 
every  day  with  sacrifices.  Good  manners  are  made  up  of  petty  sacrifices.  Temperance, 
courage,  love,  are  made  up  of  the  same  jewels.  Listen  to  every  prompting  of  honor. 
"As  soon  as  a  sacrifice  becomes  a  duty  and  necessity  to  the  man,  I  see  no  limit  to  the 
horizon  which  opens  before  me,"  says  Ernest  Renan.  Of  course  those  people,  and  no 
others,  interest  us  who  believe  in  their  thought,  who  are  absorbed,  if  you  please  to  say  so, 
in  their  own  dream.  They  only  can  give  the  key  and  leading  to  better  society:  those 
nvho  delight  in  each  other  only  because  both  delight  in  the  eternal  laws;  who  forgive  noth- 
ing to  each  other;  who,  by  their  joy  and  homage  to  these,  are  made  incapable  of  conceit, 
which  destroys  almost  all  the  fine  wits.  Any  other  affection  between  men  than  this 
geometric  one  of  relation  to  the  same  thing,  is  a  mere  mush  of  materialism. 

These  are  the  bases  of  civil  and  polite  society;  namely,  manners,  conversation,  lucrative 
labor,  and  public  action,  whether  political,  or  in  the  leading  of  social  institutions.  We  have 
much  to  regret,  much  to  mend,  in  our  society;  but  I  believe  that  in  all  liberal  and  hopeful 
men  there  is  a  firm  faith  in  the  beneficent  results  which  we  really  enjoy;  that  intelligence, 
manly -enterprise,  good  education,  virtuous  life,  and  elegant  manners  have  been  and  are 
found  here,  and  we  hope,  in  the  next  generation  will  still  more  abound. 

EXTRACTS  FROM  EMERSON. 


CONVERSATION. 

Manners  first,  then  conversation. 

THE  delight  in  good  company,  in  pure, 'brilliant,  social  atmosphere;  the  incompar- 
able satisfaction  of  a  society  in  which  everything  can  be  safely  said,  in  which  every 
member  returns  a  true  echo,  in  which  a  wise  freedom,  an  ideal  republic  of  sense, 
simplicity,  knowledge,  and  thorough  good-meaning  abide. — doubles  the  value  of  life.  It  is 
this  that  justifies  to  each  the  jealousy  with  which  the  doors  are  kept.     Speech  is  power: 
speech  is  to  persuade,  to  convert,  to  compel.     It  is  to  bring  another  out  of  his  bad  sense 
into  your  good  sense.     You  are  to  be  the  missionary  and  carrier  of  all  that  is  good  and 
noble.     Virtues  speaks  to  virtues,  vices  to  vices — each  to  their  kind  in  the  people  with 
whom  we  deal.    If  you  are  suspiciously  and  deeply  on  your  guard,  so  is  he  or  she.    If  you 
rise  to  frankness  and  generosity,  they  will  respect  it  now  or  later. 

In  this  art  of  conversation,  woman,  if  not  the  queen  and  victor,  is  the  lawgiver.  If 
every  one  recalled  his  experiences,  he  might  find  the  best  in  the  speech  of  superior  women, 
— which  was  better  than  song,  and  carried  ingenuity,  character,  wise  counsel,  and  afflic- 
tion, as  easily  as  the  wit  with  which  it  was  adorned. 

They  are  not  only  wise  themselves,  they  make  us  wise.  No  one  can  be  a  master  in 
conversation  who  has  not  learned  much  from  woman;  their  presence  and  inspiration  are 
essential  to  its  success.  Shenstone  gave  no  bad  account  of  his  influence  in  his  description 
of  the  French  woman:  "  There  is  a  quality  in  which  no  woman  in  the  world  can  compete 
with  her, — it  is  the  power  of  intellectual  irritation.  She  will  draw  wit  out  of  a  fool.  She 
strikes  with  such  address  the  cords  of  self-love,  that  she  gives  unexpected  vigor  and 
agility  of  fancy,  and  electrifies  a  body  that  appeared  non-electric."  Coleridge  esteems 
cultivated  women  as  the  depositaries  and  guardians  of  "  English  undefiled;  "  and  Luther 
commends  that  accomplishment  of  "  pure  German  speech  "  of  his  wife. 

Madame  de  Stael,  by  the  unanimous  consent  of  all  who  knew  her,  was  the  most  extra- 
ordinary converser  that  was  known  in  her  time,  and  it  was  a  time  full  of  eminent  men  and 
women;  she  knew  all  distinguished  persons  in  letters  or  society,  in  England,  Germany, 
and  Italy,  as  well  as  in  France,  though  she  said  with  characteristic  nationality,  "  Conversa- 
tion, like  talent,  exists  only  in  France."  Madame  de  Stael  valued  nothing  but  conversa- 
tion. And  she  said  one  day,  seriously,  to  M.  Mole,  "  if  it  were  not  for  respect  to  human 
opinions,  I  would  not  open  my  window  to  see  the  Bay  of  Naples  for  the  first  time,  whilst 
I  would  go  five  hundred  leagues  to  talk  with  a  man  of  genius  whom  I  had  not  seen." 
Ste  Beuve  tells  us  of  the  privileged  circle  at  Coppet,  that,  after  making  an  excursion  one 
day,  the  party  returned  in  two  coaches  from  Chambery  to  Aix,  on  the  way  to  Coppet. 
The  first  coach  had  many  rueful  accidents  to  relate, — a  terrific  thunder-storm,  shocking 
roads,  and  danger  and  gloom  to  the  whole  company.  The  party  in  the  second  coach,  on 
arriving,  heard  this  story  with  surprise; — of  thunder-storms,  of  steeps,  of  mud,  of  danger, 
they  knew  nothing;  no,  they  had  forgotten  earth,  and  breathed  a  purer  air;  such  a  conver- 
sation between  Madame  de  Stael  and  Madame  Recramier  and  Benjamin  Constant  and 
Schlegel !  they  were  in  a  state  of  delight.  The  intoxication  of  the  conversation  had  made 
them  insensible  to  all  notice  of  weather  or  rough  roads. 

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34  HOME    DISSERTATIONS. 

Madame  de  Tasse  said:  "If  I  were  queen,  I  should  command  Madame  de  Stael  to 
talk  to  me  every  day."  Conversation  fills  all  gaps,  supplies  all  deficiencies. 

Politics,  war,  party,  luxury,  avarice,  fashion,  are  all  asses  with  loaded  panniers  to 
serve  the  kitchen  of  Intellect,  the  king.  There  is  nothing  that  does  not  pass  into  lever 
or  weapon.  A  right  speech  is  not  to  be  distinguished  from  action.  Courage  to  ask 
questions,  courage  to  expose  ignorance.  The  great  aim  is  not  to  shine,  not  to  conquer 
your  companion, — then  you  learn  nothing  but  conceit, — but  to  find  a  companion  who 
knows  what  you  do  not;  to  tilt  with  him  and  be  overthrown,  horse  and  foot,  with  utter 
destruction  of  all  your  logic  and  learning.  There  is  a  defeat  that  is  useful.  Then  you 
can  see  the  real  and  the  counterfeit,  and  will  never  accept  the  counterfeit  again.  You 
will  adopt  the  art  that  has  defeated  you.  You  will  ride  to  battle  horsed  on  the  very  logic 
which  you  found  irresistible.  You  will  accept  the  fertile  truth,  instead  of  the  solemn 
customary  lie.  Let  nature  bear  the  expense.  The  attitude,  the  tone,  is  all.  Let  your 
eyes  not  look  away.  Let  us  not  look  east  and  west  for  materials  of  conversation,  but  rest 
in  presence  and  unity.  A  just  feeling  will  fast  enough  supply  fuel  for  discourse,  if  speak- 
ing be  more  grateful  than  silence.  When  people  come  to  see  us,  we  foolishly  prattle,  lest 
we  be  inhospitable.  But  things  said  for  conversation  are  chalk  eggs.  Don't  say 
things.  What  you  are  stands  over  you  the  while,  and  thunders  so  that  I  cannot  hear  what 
you  say  to  the  contrary.  A  lady  of  my  acquaintance  said:  "  I  don't  care  so  much  for 
what  they  say  as  I  do  for  what  makes  them  say  it." 

The  main  point  is  to  throw  yourself  on  the  truth,  and  say  with  Newton,  "  There's  no 
contending  against  facts."  When  Molyneux  fancied  that  the  observations  of  the  nutation 
of  the  earths  axis  destroyed  Newton's  theory  of  gravitation,  he  tried  to  break  it  softly  to  Sir 
Isaac,  who  only  answered,  "It  maybe  so;  there's  no  arguing  against  facts  and  experi- 
ments." But  there  are  people  who  cannot  be  cultivated, — people  on  whom  speech  makes 
no  impression, — swainish,  morose  people,  who  must  be  kept  down  and  quieted  as  you 
would  those  who  are  a  little  tipsey;  others,  who  are  not  only  swainish,  but  are  prompt  to 
take  oath  that  swainishness  is  the  only  culture;  and  though  their  odd  wit  may  have  some 
salt  for  you,  your  friends  would  not  relish  it.  Blot  these  out.  And  beware  of  jokes,  too 
much  temperance  cannot  be  used;  inestimable  for  sauce,  but  corruption  for  food;  we 
go  away  hollow  and  ashamed.  As  soon  as  the  company  gives  in  to  this  enjoyment, 
we  shall  have  no  Olympus.  True  wit  never  made  us  laugh.  Stay  at  home  in 
your  own  mind.  Don't  recite  other  people's  opinions.  See  how  it  lies  there  in 
you;  and  if  there  is  no  counsel,  offer  none. 

AVhat  we  want  is,  not  your  activity  or  interference  with  your  mind,  but  your  content  to 
be  a  vehicle  of  the  simple  truth.  The  way  to  have  large  occasional  views,  as  in  a  political 
or  social  crisis,  is  to  have  large  habitual  views.  When  men  consult  you,  it  is  not  that 
they  wish  you  to  stand  tiptoe,  and  pump  your  brains,  but  to  apply  your  habitual  view,  your 
wisdom,  to  the  present  question,  for  bearing  all  pedantries,  and  the  very  name  of  argument; 
for  in  good  conversation  parties  don't  speak  to  the  words,  but  to  the  meanings  of 
each  other. 


TO-DAY. 


Trust  no  future  ;  howe'er  pleasant ! 

Let  the  dead  Past  bury  its  dead  ! 
Act, — act  in  the  livmg  Present  ! 

Heart  within,  and  God  o'erhead  ! 

— LONGFELLOW. 

1 

The  days  are  made  on  a  loom  whereof  the  warp 
and  woof  are  past  and  future  time.  They  are 
majestically  dressed,  as  if  every  god  brought  a 
thread  to  the  skyey  web. 

<t  /    *  OETHE  says  somewhere  that  one  should  contrive  every  day  to  hear  some  good 

\Tf  music,  to  look  at  a  beautiful  picture,  and  if  possible,  to  speak  a  few  sensible  words." 

"  He  only  is  rich  who  owns  the  day."     There  is  no  king,  rich  man,  fairy,  or 

demon  who  possesses  such  power  as  that.     The  days  are  ever  divine  as  to  the  first  Aryans. 

They  are  of  the  least  pretention,  and  of  the  greatest  capacity  of  anything  that  exists. 

They  come  and  go  like  muffled  and  veiled  figures,  sent  from  a  distant  friendly  party; 
but  they  say  nothing;  and  if  we  don't  use  the  gifts  they  bring,  they  carry  them  as 
silently  away. 

These  roses  under  my  window  make  no  reference  to  former  roses  or  better  ones;  they 
are  for  what  they  are;  they  exist  with  God  to-day.  There  is  no  time  to  them.  There  is 
simply  the  rose;  it  is  perfect  in  every  moment  of  its  existence.  Before  a  leaf-bud  has 
burst,  its  whole  life  acts;  in  the  full-blown  flower  there  is  no  more;  in  the  leafless  root 
there  is  no  less.  Its  nature  is  satisfied,  and  it  satisfies  nature,  in  all  moments  alike.  But 
man  postpones  or  remembers;  he  does  not  live  in  the  present,  but  with  reverted  eye 
laments  the  past,  or  heedless  of  the  riches  that  surround  him,  stands  on  tiptoe  to  foresee 
the  future.  He  cannot  be  happy  and  strong  until  he  too  lives  with  nature  in  the  present, 
above  time.  If  we  live  truly,  we  shall  see  truly.  If  you  follow  the  truth,  it  will  bring  you 
out  safely  at  last. 

How  the  day  fits  itself  to  the  mind,  winds  itself  round  it  like  a  fine  drapery,  clothing 
all  its  fancies!  Any  holiday  communicates  to  us  its  color.  We  wear  its  cockade  and 
favors  in  our  humor. 

In  solitude  and  in  the  country,  what  dignity  distinguishes  the  holy  time.  The  old 
Sabbath,  or  Seventh  Day,  white  with  the  religion  of  unknown  thousands  of  years,  when 
this  hallowed  hour  dawns  out  of  the  deep, — a  clean  page,  which  the  wise  may  inscribe 
with  truth,  whilst  the  savage  scrawls  it  with  fetiches, — the  cathedral  music  of  history 
breathes  through  it  a  psalm  to  our  solitude.  Such  are  the  days, — the  earth  is  the  cup,  the 
sky  is  the  cover,  of  the  immense  bounty  of  nature  which  is  offered  us  for  daily  aliment. 

One  of  the  illusions  is  that  the  present  hour  is  not  the  critical,  decisive  hour.     Write 

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36  HOME    DISSERTATIONS. 

it  on  your  heart  that  every  day  is  the  best  day  in  the  year.  No  man  has  learned  anything 
rightly,  until  he  knows  that  every  day  is  Doomsday.  'T  is  the  old  secret  of  the  gods  that 
they  come  in  low  disguises.  'T  is  the  vulgar  great  who  come  dizened  with  gold  and  jewels. 
Real  kings  hide  away  their  crowns  in  their  wardrobes,  and  effect  a  plain  and  poor  exterior. 

Another  illusion  is,  that  there  is  not  time  enough  for  our  work.  A  poor  Indian  chief 
of  the  Six  Nations  of  New  York  made  a  wiser  reply  than  any  philosopher,  to  some  one 
complaining  that  he  had  not  enough  time.  "Well,"  said  Red  Jacket,  "  I  suppose  you  have 
all  the  time  there  is." 

We  owe  to  genius  always  the  same  debt,  of  lifting  the  curtain  from  the  common,  and 
showing  us  that  divinities  are  sitting  disguised  in  the  seeming  gang  of  gypsies  and  ped- 
lers.  In  daily  life,  what  distinguishes  the  master  is  the  using  those  materials  he  has,  in- 
stead of  looking  about  for  what  are  more  renowned,  or  what  others  have  used  well.  Do 
not  refuse  the  employment  which  the  hour  brings  you,  for  one  more  ambitious.  The 
highest  heaven  of  wisdom  is  alike  near  from  every  point,  and  thou  must  find  it,  if  at  all, 
by  methods  native  to  thyself  alone. 

The  work  is  ever  the  more  pleasant  to  the  imagination  which  is  not  now  required. 
How  wistfully,  when  we  have  promised  to  attend  the  working  committee,  we  look  at  the 
distant  hills  and  their  seductions. 

Zoologists  may  deny  that  horse-hair  in  the  water  changes  to  worms  ;  but  I  find  that  what- 
ever is  old  corrupts,  and  the  past  turns  to  snakes.  The  reverence  for  the  deeds  of  our 
ancestors  is  a  treacherous  sentiment.  Their  merit  was  not  to  reverence  the  old,  but  to 
honor  the  present  moment ;  and  we  falsely  make  them  excuses  of  the  very  habit  which 
they  hated  and  defied. 

The  use  of  history  is  to  give  value  to  the  present  hour  and  its  duty.  A  third  illusion 
haunts  us,  that  a  long  duration,  as  a  year,  a  decade,  a  century,  is  valuable.  But  an  old 
French  sentence  says:  "God  works  in  minutes;" — "Enpcu  d'hetire  Dicu  labcurc."  We 
ask  for  long  life,  but  'tis  deep  life,  or  grand  moments  that  signify.  Let  the  measure  of 
time  be  spiritual,  not  mechanical.  Moments  of  insight,  of  fine  personal  relation,  a  smile, 
a  glance, — what  ample  borrowers  of  eternity  they  are!  Life  culminates  and  concentrates; 
and  Homer  said:  "  The  gods  ever  give  to  mortals  their  appropriate  share  of  reason  only 
on  one  day." 

I  am  of  opinion  of  the  poet  Wordsworth:  "  That  there  is  no  real  happiness  in  life,  but 
in  intellect  and  virtue."  I  am  of  the  opinion  of  Pliny:  "That,  whilst  we  are  musing  on 
these  things,  we  are  adding  to  the  length  of  our  lives."  I  am  of  opinion  of  Glauco,  who 
said:  "  The  measure  of  life,  O  Socrates,  is,  with  the  wise,  the  speaking  and  hearing  such 
discourses  as  yours."  He  only  can  enrich  me  who  can  recommend  to  me  the  space 
between  sun  and  sun.  'T  is  the  measure  of  a  man, — his  apprehension  of  a  day. 

You  must  treat  the  days  respectfully,  you  must  be  a  day  yourself,  and  not  interrogate 
it  like  a  college  professor.  The  world  is  enigmatical, — everything  said,  and  everything 
known  or  done, — and  must  not  be  taken  literally,  but  genially.  We  must  be  at  the  top  of 
our  condition  to  understand  anything  rightly.  You  must  hear  the  bird's  song  without 


TO-DAY.  37 

attempting  to  render  it  into  nouns  and  verbs.     Cannot  we  be  a  little  abstemious  and  obe- 
dient? Cannot  we  let  the  morning  alone?  There  can  be  no  greatness  without  abandonment. 

Just  to  fill  the  hour, — that  is  happiness.  Fill  my  hour,  ye  gods,  so  I  shall  not  sayt 
whilst  I  have  done  this,  '  Behold,  alas,  an  hour  of  my  life  has  gone,' — but  rather,  '  I  have 
lived  an  hour." " 

And  such  should  be  the  outward  biography  of  man  in  time,  a  putting  off  of  dead  cir- 
cumstances day  by  day,  as  he  renews  his  raiment  day  after  day.  The  hours  should  be 
instructed  by  the  ages,  and  the  ages  explained  by  the  hours. 

'T  is  pitiful  the  things  by  which  we  are  rich  or  poor, — a  matter  of  coins,  coats,  and 
carpets,  a  little  more  or  less  stone,  or  wood,  or  paint,  the  fashion  of  a  cloak  or  hat ;  like 
the  luck  of  naked  Indians,  of  whom  one  is  proud  in  the  possession  of  a  glass  bead  or  a 
red  feather,  and  the  rest  miserable  in  the  want  of  it.  But  the  treasures  which  Nature 
spent  itself  to  amass, — the  secular,  refined,  composite  anatomy  of  man, — which  all  strata 
go  to  form,  which  the  prior  races,  from  infusory  and  saurian,  existed  to  ripen;  the  sur- 
rounding plastic  natures;  the  earth  with  its  floods;  the  intellectual,  temperamenting  air; 
the  sea  with  its  invitations;  the  heavens  with  deep  worlds;  and  the  answering  brain  and 
nervous  structure  replying  to  these;  the  eye  that  looketh  into  the  deeps, — which  again 
look  back  to  the  eye, — abyss  to  abyss;  these,  not  like  a  glass  bead,  or  the  coins  or  carpets, 
are  given  immeasurably  to  all.  And  this  is  the  progress  of  every  earnest  mind;  from  the 
works  of  man  and  the  activity  of  the  hands  to  a  delight  in  the  faculties  which  rule  them; 
from  a  respect  to  the  works  to  a  wise  wonder  at  this  mystic  element  of  time  in  which  he 
is  conditioned;  and  local  skills  and  the  economy  which  reckons  the  amount  of  production 
per  hour  to  the  finer  economy  which  respects  the  quality  of  what  is  done,  and  the  right 
we  have  to  the  work,  or  the  fidelity  with  which  it  flows  from  ourselves;  then  to  depth  of 
thought  it  betrays,  looking  to  its  universality,  or,  that  its  roots  are  in  eternity,  not  in  time. 
Then  it  flows  from  character,  that  sublime  health  which  values  one  moment  as  another, 
and  make  us  great  in  all  conditions,  and  is  the  only  definition  we  have  of  freedom  and 
power. 

,  That  which  befits  us,  imbosomed  in  beauty  and  wonder  as  we  are,  is  cheerfulness  and 
courage,  and  the  endeavor  to  realize  our  aspirations.  The  life  of  man  is  the  true  romance, 
which,  when  it  is  valiantly  conducted,  will  yield  the  imagination  a  higher  joy  than  any 
fiction.  All  around  us,  what  powers  are  wrapped  up  under  the  coarse  mattings  of  custom, 
and  all  wonder  prevented. 

It  is  so  wonderful  to  our  neurologists  that  a  man  can  see  without  his  eyes,  that  it  does 
not  occur  to  them,  that  it  is  just  as  wonderful,  that  he  should  see  with  them  ;  and  that  is 
ever  the  difference  between  the  wise  and  the  unwise:  the  latter  wonders  at  the  unusual, 
the  vrise  man  wonders  at  the  usual. 

Shall  not  the  heart  which  has  received  so  much,  trust  the  Power  by  which  it  lives  ? 
May  it  not  quit  other  leadings,  and  listen  to  the  Soul  that  has  guided  it  so  gently,  and 
taught  it  so  much,  secure  that  the  future  will  be  worthy  of  the  past  ? 

EXTRACTS  FROM  EMERSON. 


HAPPINESS. 

"  Love  is  blind,  runs  the  phrase;  nay,  I  would  rather  say,  love 
sees  as  God  sees,  and  with  infinite  pardon." 

Talent  is  power  ;  tact  is  skill.  Talent  is  weight  ;  tact  is  mo- 
mentum. Talent  knows  what  to  do  ;  tact  knows  how  to  do  it. 
Talent  makes  a  man  respectable  ;  tact  will  make  him  respected. 
Talent  is  wealth  ;  tact  is  ready-money.  For  all  the  practical  pur- 
poses of  life  tact  carries  it  against  talent  in  proportion  of  ten  to 
one. 

TACT  is  the  lubricator  of  life  ;  it  oils  the  machinery,  it  smooths  away  the  trouble, 
looks  far  ahead  perhaps  to  see  it,  and  turns  things  into  another  channel.  But, 
however,  tact  avoids  the  necessity  of  falsehood,  it  does  not  suppress  the  truth  ;  it 
simply  prevents  references  to  the  facts.  It  has  a  sort  of  self-respect  which  does  not  blazon 
its  affairs  abroad  ;  it  does  not  consider  itself  as  using  deceit  when  merely  keeping  its 
own  business  in  its  own  breast. 

Sidney  Smith  says,  "I  have  a  contempt  for  persons  who  destroy  themselves.  Live  on, 
and  look  evil  in  the  face  ;  walk  up  to  it,  and  you  will  find  it  less  than  you  imagined,  and 
often  you  will  not  find  it  at  all  ;  for  it  will  recede  as  you  advance.  Any  fool  may  be  a 
suicide.  When  you  are  in  a  melancholy  fit,  first  suspect  the  body,  appeal  to  rhubarb  and 
calomel,  and  send  for  the  apothecary,  a  little  bit  of  gristle  sticking  in  the  wrong  place,  an 
untimely  consumption  of  custard,  excessive  gooseberries,  often  cover  the  mind  with  clouds 
and  bring  on  the  most  distressing  views  of  human  life.  I  start  up  at  two  o'clock  in  the 
morning,  after  my  first  sleep,  in  an  agony  of  terror,  and  feel  all  the  weight  of  life  upon  my 
soul.  It  is  impossible  that  I  can  bring  up  such  a  family  of  children,  my  sons  and  daugh- 
ters will  be  beggars  ;  I  shall  live  to  see  those  whom  I  love  exposed  to  the  scorn  and  con- 
tumely of  the  world  ! 

But  stop,  thou  child  of  sorrow,  and  humble  imitator  of  Job,  and  tell  me  on  what  you 
dined.  Was  not  there  soup  and  salmon,  and  then  a  plate  of  beef,  and  then  duck,  blanc 
mange,  cream-cheese,  diluted  with  beer,  claret,  champagne,  hock,  tea,  coffee,  and  noyeau  ? 
And  after  all  this  you  talk  of  the  mind  and  the  evils  of  life  !  These  kind  of  cases  do  not 
need  meditation,  but  magnesia.  Take  short  views  of  life.  What  am  I  to  do  in  these  times 
j  with  such  a  family  of  children  ?  So  I  argued,  and  lived  dejected,  and  with  little  hope  , 
but  the  difficulty  vanished  as  life  went  on.  An  uncle  died,  and  left  me  some  money  ;  an 
aunt  died,  and  left  me  more  ;  my  daughter  married  well  ;  I  had  two  or  three  appoint- 
ments, and  before  life  was  half  over  became  a  prosperous  man.  And  so  will  you.  Every 
one  has  uncles  and  aunts  who  are  mortal.  Time  brings  a  thousand  chances  in  your  favor. 
Nothing  so  absurd  as  to  sit  down  and  wrng  your  hands  because  all  the  good  which  may 
liappen  you  in  twenty  years  has  not  taken  place  at  this  precise  moment.  Nothing  contri- 
butes more  certainly  to  the  animal  spirits  than  benevolence. 


HAPPINESS.  39 

Servants  and  common  people  are  always  about  you  ;  make  moderate  attempts  to  please 
everybody,  and  the  effort  will  insensibly  lead  you  to  a  more  happy  state  of  mind.  Pleas- 
ure is  very  reflective,  and  if  you  give  it  you  will  feel  it.  The  pleasure  you  give  by  kind- 
ness of  manner  returns  to  you,  and  often  with  compound  interest.  The  receipt  for  cheer- 
fulness is  not  to  have  one  motive  only  in  the  day  for  living,  but  a  number  of  little  motives; 
a  man  who,  from  the  time  he  rises  till  bedtime,  conducts  himself  like  a  gentleman,  who 
throws  some  little  condescension  into  his  manner  to  superiors,  and  who  is  always  contriving 
to  soften  the  distance  between  himself  and  the  poor  and  ignorant,  is  always  improving 
his  animal  spirits,  and  adding  to  his  happiness." 

A  rule  for  living  happily  with  others  is  to  avoid  having  stock  subjects  for  disputation. 
It  mostly  happens,  when  people  live  much  together,  they  have  come  to  have  certain  set 
topics,  around  which,  from  frequent  dispute,  there  is  such  a  growth  of  angry  words,  mor- 
tified vanity,  and  the  like,  that  the  original  subject  of  difference  becomes  a  standing  sub- 
ject for  quarrel,  and  there  is  a  tendency  in  all  minor  disputes  to  drift  down  to  it.  Again, 
if  people  wish  to  live  well  together,  they  must  not  hold  too  much  to  logic,  and  suppose 
that  everything  is  to  be  settled  by  sufficient  reason.  Dr.  Johnson  saw  this  clearly  with 
regard  to  married  people  when  he  said:  "Wretched  would  be  the  pair,  above  all  names 
of  wretchedness,  who  should  be  doomed  to  adjust  by  reason,  every  morning,  all  the  min- 
ute detail  of  the  domestic  day."  But  the  application  should  be  much  more  general  than 
he  made  it.  There  is  no  time  for  such  reasonings,  and  nothing  that  is  worth  them.  And 
when  we  recollect  how  two  lawyers  or  two  politicians  can  go  on  contending,  and  that 
there  is  no  end  of  one-sided  reasoning  on  any  subject,  we  shall  not  be  sure  that  such  con- 
tention is  the  best  mode  of  arriving  at  truth.  But  certainly  it  is  not  the  way  to  arrive  at 
good  temper. 

"  How  a  stray  sentence,  a  popular  saying,  the  maxim  of  some  wise  man,  a  line  accident- 
ally fallen  upon  and  remembered,  will  sometimes  help  one  when  he  is  all  ready  to  be  vexed 
and  indignant,"  says  Dr.  Holmes  in  his  preface  to  the  new  edition  of  "The  Professor  at 
the  Breakfast  Table."  "One  day  in  the  time  when  I  was  young  or  youngish,  I  happened 
to  open  a  small  copy  of  '  Tom  Jones  '  and  glanced  at  the  title-page.  There  was  .one  of 
those  little  engravings  opposite  which  bore  the  familiar  name  of  '  T.  Nevins '  as  I  remem- 
ber it,  and  under  it  the  words  '  Mr.  Partridge  bore  all  this  patiently.'  How  many  times 
when,  after  rough  usage  from  ill-mannered  critics,  my  own  vocabulary  of  vituperation  was 
simmering  in  such  a  lively  way  that  it  threatened  to  boil  and  lift  its  lid,  and  so  boil  over, 
those  words  have  calmed  the  small  internal  effervescence!  There  is  very  little  in  them 
and  very  little  of  them,  and  so  there  is  not  much  in  a  linch-pin  considered  by  itself,  but  it 
often  keeps  a  wheel  from  coming  off  and  prevents  what  might  be  a  catastrophe." 

Happiness  is  like  manna;  it  is  to  be  gathered  in  grains,  and  enjoyed  every  day.  It 
will  not  keep;  it  cannot  be  accumulated;  nor  have  we  to  go  out  of  ourselves  or  into  remote 
places  to  gather  it,  since  it  has  rained  down  from  heaven  at  our  very  doors,  or  rather 
within  them. 

All  cannot  be  beautiful,  but  they  can  be  sweet-tempered,  and  a  sweet  temper  gives  a 


40  HOME    DISSERTATIONS. 

loveliness  to  the  face  more  attractive  in  the  long  run  than  beauty.  Have  a  sm-ile  and  a  kind 
word  for  all.  A  sweet  temper  is  to  the  household  what  sunshine  is  to  the  trees  and  flowers. 
What  a  stimulant  kindness  is  to  the  most  stubborn  or  dull  disposition  ! 

Walter  Besants'  interesting  suggestion  for  making  people  good  by  making  them  happy, 
is  commendable. 

Nothing  could  be  more  appropriate  and  beautiful  than  Jennie  June's  invocation  to  St. 
Valentine:  "  If  I  should  invoke  St.  Valentine,  it  would  not  be  to  make  havoc  in  the  hearts 
of  young  girls,  but  to  live  forever  in  the  homes  of  married  lovers;  to  bind  still  closer  the 
golden  cords;  to  tie  up  broken  threads;  to  heal  occasional  wounds;  to  cast  a  veil  of  ob- 
livion over  the  hasty  word;  to  weave  into  one  shining  fabric  the  trust,  the  love,  the  peace, 
the  unity  of  happy  wedded  life,  and  with  it  invest  all  who  enter  the  holy  order  of 
matrimony." 


MY    TALISMAN. 


ESTHER    G.   BARCLAY. 


I've  a  precious  little  talisman 
Lying  close  upon  my  heart, 

And  all  the  gold  of  Croesus 
Could  not  buy  that  little  chart. 

It  keeps  me  brave  and  hopeful, 

Through  the  gloomiest,  darkest  day; 

It  guides  my  doubting  footsteps 
To  the  safest,  surest  way. 

It  makes  each  toilsome  duty 

Seem  a  messenger  of  love, 
That's  but  fitting  and  preparing 

for  the  mansions  up  above. 

It  brings  the  dear  departed 

So  very,  very  near, 
That  their  wondrous  songs  of  rapture 

Methinks  I  almost  hear. 

It  sheds  its  brightening  radiance 
Through  the  vale  we  long  to  flee; 

It  guides  the  spirit  upwards, 
Till  the  Pearly  Gates  we  see. 


And  this  simple  little  talisman, 
By  a  glorious  King  is  given, 

To  each  and  all  who  ask  Him, 

As  their  guide  from  earth  to  heaven. 


aith's  that  little  talisman 
Lying  close  upon  my  heart, 
And  there's  naught  in  life  or  naught  in  dying 
That  can  sunder  them  apart; 

Come  near  me,  O,  my  Father, 

Come  very  near  to  me  ; 
Thy  guiding  hand  in  darkness 

Is  all  the  light  I  see. 

I  cannot  tell  the  reason, 

I  cannot  see  the  way; 
The  darkness  of  earth's  shadows 

Shuts  out  the  light  of  day. 

O,  may  I  learn  the  lesson 
That  Thou  would'st  teach  to  me, 

And  trust  Thee  blindly,  simply, 
In  all  I  cannot  see. 


A  child  should  trust  a  father, 
If  that  father's  child  it  be: 

O,  make  me  feel  it  fully, 
And  leave  it  all  to  Thee. 


ORDERLY  DOMESTIC  MANAGEMENT. 

"  As  order  is  heaven's  first  law  in  the  Universe,  "  Happy  in  this,  she's  not  yet  too  old 

so  should  it  be  the  first  law  of  conduct  in  the  But  she  may  learn;  and  happier  than  this, 

regulation  of  the  household."  She  is  not  bred  so  dull  but  she  can  learn." 

EVERY  woman  should  understand  the  elemental,  the  chemical,  principles  of  cooking, 
and  an  appreciation  of  geometrical  precision  requisite  for  neatness  and  order  in 
her  own  household.  No  place  can  be  like  home  unless  scrupulously  clean 
and  orderly. 

An  orderly  domestic  management  securing  a  selection  of  wholesome  food,  skill  in 
cooking,  nicety  in  the  appointments  and  regularity  in  the  formalities  of  the  table,  and  that 
social  intercourse  of  the  well  regulated  family  which  not  only  takes  away  the  grossness  of 
eating,  but  adds  to  the  delight  of  refinement  the  satisfaction  of  health,  will  offer  just  the 
requisites  to  wholesome  living.  There  will  then  be  no  occasion  for  enquiring  as  to  the 
healthfulness  of  this  or  that  mode  of  eating  or  drinking,  or  the  digestibility  of  this  or  that 
article  of  food,  or  the  raising  of  any  question  which  may  disturb  the  mind  with  anxiety 
about  the  needs  and  capabilities  of  the  body,  which  is  so  apt  to  derange  the  functions  of 
the  digestive  organs. 

With  regard  to  a  plan  of  household  work.  Whether  an  establishment  be  la.rge  or  small, 
positive  rules  should  be  laid  down  for  observance  in  all  that  relates  to  the  comfort  of  the 
family  and  the  dispatch  of  the  work. 

The  old  adage  "A  place  for  everything,  and  everything  in  its  place,"  is  not  half  under- 
stood or  appreciated,  until  each  member  of  a  family  puts  everything  they  use  in  its  place 
the  moment  they  are  done  with  it.  The  result  will  be  convincing  in  the  amount  of 
domestic  worry  avoided  and  labor  lightened. 

"  But  the  tact  to  manage  a  household  in  an  orderly  manner  doesn't  always  come  with 
the  knowledge  of  its  necessity,  nor  even  with  the  desire  on  the  part  of  the  mistress  to  so 
manage.  She  must  understand  thoroughly  how  to  control  her  servants."  The  manage- 
ment of  the  servants  being  the  management  of  the  house  itself.  In  engaging  them,  try  to 
discover  whether  they  are  competent  to  fulfill  the  particular  duties  to  be  required  of  them. 
There  will  be  no  difficulties  in  this  if  they  are  really  competent.  Then  agree  to  pay  them 
what  their  competency  is  worth. 

RECIPE    FOR   ORDERLY    DOMESTIC    MANAGEMENT. 

Let  the  mistress  of  the  house  take  two  pounds  of  the  very  best  self-control,  one  and  a 
half  pounds  of  justice,  one  pound  of  consideration,  five  pounds  of  patience,  and  one 
pound  of  discipline.  Let  this  be  sweetened  with  charity,  let  it  simmer  well,  and  let  it 
be  taken  daily;  in  extreme  cases  in  hourly  doses,  and  be  kept  always  on  hand,  then  the 
domestic  wheels  will  run  quite  smoothly. 

"  Exhort  servants  to  be  obedient  unto  their  own  masters,  and  to  please  them  well  in  all 
things;  not  answering  again;  not  purloyning,  but  showing  all  good  fidelity;  that  they  may 
adorn  the  doctrine  of  God  our  Saviour  in  all  things."  TIT.  ii.,  9,  10. 


KEEPING    HOUSE. 

THE  experiences  of  housekeeping  are  invaluable.  They  give  a  mental  and  physical 
training  one  can  obtain  in  no  other  way. ,  Boarding  is  a  poor  way  of  living  as 
compared  with  housekeeping.  By  all  means  keep  house,  even  though  in  a  small  way. 
No  young  housekeeper  need  be  discouraged  if  she  does  not  at  once  succeed  in  everything 
she  attempts.  With  experience  only,  and  with  the  cultivation  of  good  judgment,  will  the 
desired  results  be  accomplished.  No  rule,  no  recipe  can  be  so  exact  as  not  to  require  the 
use  of  judgment.  Conditions  vary.  Circumstances  are  not  always  the  same.  Emergen- 
cies will  arise  when  the  use  of  quick  wit  and  tact  will  be  necessary  to  keep  the  wheels  of 
the  household  machinery  from  being  clogged,  or  from  stopping  entirely.  Nowhere  will 
there  be  so  excellent  an  opportunity  for  the  cultivation  of  wit  and  tact  as  in  housekeeping. 
It  is  considered  by  some  to  be  dull  and  prosaic,  fit  only  for  menials.  On  the  contrary, 
the  mistress  of  a  household  has  great  resources  at  her  command,  and  great  services  to 
perform.  She  is  queen  of  a  small  realm  which  she  may  make  an  Arcadia,  if  she  will.  But 
this  requires  time. .  Not  all  at  once  do  we  reach  any  much  desired  end.  However  thor- 
oughly a  young  woman  may  have  been  taught  to  perform  various  domestic  offices  at  home 
with  her  mother,  she  will  find  her  knowledge  of  housekeeping  limited  when  thrown  upon 
her  own  resources;  and  if  this  be  true,  how  will  it  be  with  those  who  have  no  knowledge, 
no  experience,  but  who  have  been  taught  to  consider  a  total  ignorance  of  all  the  domestic 
arts  something  of  which  to  be  proud  ? 

If  girls  could  look  into  the  future  and  see  how  helpless  a  woman  is  who  is  ignorant  of 
every  form  of  labor,  how  dependent  she  is  upon  poor  servants,  how  she  fails  when  tried 
in  the  balance  of  adversity, — if  they  could  only  know  the  unhappiness  in  homes,  the  actual 
suffering  when  reverses  come, — would  they,  oh,  would  they  still  think  it  degrading  to  learn 
how  to  be  useful,  especially  in  their  own  homes  ? 

Learn  to  perform  all  kinds  of  household  labor  that  you  may  direct  others,  and  that 
you  may,  at  need,  be  able  to  perform  them  yourself.  If  you  have  no  opportunity  to  do 
this  till  you  are  married,  then  begin  at  once.  At  first  there  will  be  many  failures,  and 
much  cause  for  chagrin;  but  patience  and  perseverance  will  at  length  overcome  all  diffi- 
culties. One  of  the  great  trials  will  be  that  the  husband  will  not  be  likely  to  appreciate 
the  obstacles  in  the  way  of  immediate  success.  Try  not  to  mind  this.  How  can  he  ap- 
preciate them  ?  He  is  as  ignorant  of  them  as  a  child.  Only  be  patient  with  him  as  well 
as  with  yourself,  and  make  him  feel  that  you  are  trying  to  learn,  and  that  you  fully  expect 
to  astonish  him  ere  long  with  your  efficiency  and  proficiency  in  everything  pertaining  to 
his  comfort,  and  to  the  delightfulness  of  your  home. 

Expect  failures.  The  first  bread  you  make  will  in  all  probability  be  poor.  The  first 
time  you  make  jelly,  it  may  not  "jell;"  but  the  second  or  third  time  the  bread  will  be  ex- 
cellent, and  the  jelly  delicious.  The  best  way  is  to  experiment  upon  small  quantities,  for 
cooking  must  be  more  or  less  of  an  experiment.  Whatever  happens,  be  bright,  and  do  not 
let  the  shadows  enter  your  home.  LOUISE  HEYWOOD  REYNOLDS. 

42 


EMERSON    ON    THE    BABY. 

THE  perfection  of  the  providence  for  childhood  is  easily  acknowledged.  The  care 
which  covers  the  seed  of  the  tree  under  tough  and  stony  cases,  provides  for  the 
human  plant  the  mother's  breast  and  the  father's  house.  The  size  of  the  nestler  is 
comic,  and  its  tiny  beseeching  weakness  is  compensated  perfectly  by  the  happy  patroniz- 
ing look  of  the  mother,  who  is  a  sort  of  high  reposing  Providence  toward  it.  Welcome  to 
the  parents  the  puny  struggler,  strong  in  his  weakness,  his  little  arms  more  irresistible  than 
the  soldier's,  his  lips  touched  with  persuasion  which  Chatham  and  Pericles  in  manhood  had 
not.  His  unaffected  lamentations  when  he  lifts  up  his  voice  on  high,  or,  more  beautiful, 
the  sobbing  child, — the  face  all  liquid  grief,  as  he  tries  to  swallow  his  vexation, — soften  all 
hearts  to  pity,  and  to  mirthful  and  clamorous  compassion.  The  small  despot  asks  so  little 
that  all  reason  and  all  nature  are  on  his  side.  His  ignorance  is  more  charming  than  all 
knowledge,  and  his  little  sins  more  bewitching  than  any  virtue.  His  flesh  is  angel's  flesh, 
all  alive.  "  Infancy,"  said  Coleridge,  "  presents  body  and  spirit  in  unity  :  the  body  is  all 
animated."  All  day,  between  his  three  or  four  sleeps,  he  coos  like  a  pigeon-house,  sput- 
ters and  spurs,  and  puts  on  his  faces  of  importance  ;  and  when  he  fasts,  the  little  Pharisee 
fails  not  to  sound  his  trumpet  before  him.  By  lamplight  he  delights  in  shadows  on  the 
walls  ;  by  daylight,  in  yellow  and  scarlet.  Carry  him  out  of  doors, — he  is  overpowered  by 
the  light  and  by  the  extent  of  natural  objects,  and  is  silent.  Then  presently  begins  his 
use  of  his  fingers,  and  he  studies  power,  the  lesson  of  his  race.  First  it  appears  in  no 
great  harm,  in  architectural  tastes.  Out  of  blocks,  thread-spools,  cards,  and  checkers,  he 
will  build  his  pyramid  with  the  gravity  of  Palladio.  With  an  acoustic  apparatus  of  whistle 
and  rattle  he  explores  the  laws  of  sound.  But  chiefly,  like  his  senior  countrymen,  the 
young  American  studies  new  and  speedier  modes  of  transportation.  Mistrusting  the  cun- 
ning of  his  small  legs,  he  wishes  to  ride  on  the  necks  and  shoulders  of  all  flesh.  The 
small  enchanter  nothing  can  withstand, — seniority  of  age,  no  gravity  of  character  ;  uncles, 
aunts,  grandsires,  grandames,  fall  an  easy  prey  :  he  conforms  to  nobody,  all  conform  to 
him ;  all  caper,  and  make  mouths,  and  babble,  and  chirrup  to  him.  On  the  strongest 
shoulders  he  rides,  and  pulls  the  hair  of  laurelled  heads.  The  chiid  realizes  to  every  man  his 
own  earliest  remembrance,  and  so  supplies  a  defect  in  our  education,  or  enabling  us  to  live 
over  the  unconscious  history  with  a  sympathy  so  tender  as  to  be  almost  personal  experience. 
The  first  ride  into  the  country,  the  first  bath  in  running  water,  the  first  time  the  skates 
are  put  on,  the  first  game  out  of  doors  in  moonlight,  the  books  of  the  nursery,  are  chapters 
of  joy.  "The  Arabian  Nights'  Entertainments,"  "  Robinson  Crusoe,"  and  the  "Pilgrim's 
Progress," — what  mines  of  thought  and  emotion,  what  a  wardrobe  to  dress  the  whole  world 
withal,  are  in  this  encyclopaedia  of  young  thinking!  And  so  by  beautiful  traits,  which, 
without  art,  yet  seem  the  master-piece  of  wisdom,  provoking  the  love  that  watches  and 
educates  him,  the  little  pilgrim  prosecutes  the  journey  through  nature  which  he  has  thus 
gayly  begun.  He  grows  up  the  ornament  and  joy  of  the  house,  which  rings  to  his  glee, 
to  rosy  boyhood. 

4.3 


MR.  RUSKIN'S    IDEAS    OF    A    MODEL    NURSERY. 

"  A  leaf,  a  sunbeam,  a  landscape,  the  ocean,  make  an  analogous  impression  on  the 
mind.  What  is  common  to  them  all, — that  perfectness  and  harmony,  is  beauty. 
The  standard  of  beauty  is  the  entire  circuit  of  natural  forms,  the  totality  of  nature." 

— EMERSON. 

BECAUSE  a  man  knows  a  great  deal  about  art,  literature  and  philosophy  is  no  rea- 
son for  considering  him  an  expert  in  caring  for  babies.     But  still,  Mr.  John  Ruskin's 
ideas  of  a  model  nursery  are  of  interest,  right  or  wrong,  and  so  here  they  are,  as 
given  by  him  in  a  letter  which  has  just  been  published  in  England. 

"I  have  never,"  he  says,  "  written  a  pamphlet  on  nurseries;  first,  because  I  never  write 
about  anything  except  what  I  know  more  of  than  most  other  persons;  secondly,  because  I 
think  nothing  much  matters  in  a  nursery — except  the  mother,  the  nurse  and  the  air.  So 
far  as  I  have  notion  or  guess  in  the  matter  myself,  beyond  the  perfection  of  these  three 
necessary  elements,  I  should  say  the  rougher  and  plainer  everything  the  better — no  lace 
to  cradle  or  cap,  hardest  possible  bed,  and  simplest  possible  food,  according  to  age,  and 
floor  and  walls  of  the  cleanablest.  All  education  to  beauty,  is,  first,  in  the  beauty  of 
gentle  human  faces  round  a  child;  secondly,  in  the  fields,  fields  meaning  grass,  water, 
beasts,  flowers  and  sky.  Without  these  no  man  can  be  educated  humanly.  He  may  be 
made  a  calculating  machine,  a  walking  dictionary,  a  painter  of  dead  bodies,  a  twanger  or 
scratcher  on  keys  or  catgut,  a  discoverer  of  new  forms  of  worms  in  mud;  but  a  properly 
so-called  human  being — never.  Pictures  are,  I  believe,  of  no  use  whatever  by  themselves. 
If  the  child  has  other  things  right  round  it  and  given  to  it — its  garden,  its  cat,  and  its 
window  to  the  sky  and  stars — in  time,  pictures  of  flowers  and  beasts,  and  things  in  heaven 
and  heavenly  earth,  may  be  useful  to  it.  But  see  first  fhat  its  realities  are  heavenly." 

SUNSHINE    AND    VENTILATION. 

Sunshine  has  been  shown  to  be'one  of  the  most  potent  and  efficacious  agents  in  the 
relief  and  cure  of  disease,  known  to  the  medical  profession. 

A  proper  supply  of  pure  air  is  essential  for  the  preservation  of  life  and  health.  The 
importance  of  sunlight,  for  physical  development,  is  much  undervalued.  Airy,  well-venti- 
lated sleeping  apartments  should  be  regarded  as  one  of  the  most  important  requirements 
of  life,  both  in  health  and  in  sickness. 

Bed-rooms,  in  which  about  one-third  of  human  life  is  passed,  are  generally  too  small, 
and  badly  ventilated.  The  doors  and  windows,  and  even  chimneys,  are  often  closed,  and 
every  aperture  carefully  guarded  to  exclude  fresh  air.  The  consequence  is,  that  long 
before  morning  dawns,  the  atmosphere  of  the  whole  apartment  becomes  highly  noxious 
from  the  consumption  of  its  oxygen,  the  formation  of  carbonic  gas,  and  the  exhalation 
from  the  lungs  and  skin.  Due  provision  for  the  uninterrupted  admission  of  fresh  air,  secures 
lighter  and  more  invigorating  sleep.  In  whatever  way  fresh  air  is  obtained,  it  should  be 
dispersed  as  much  as  possible  to  avoid  currents. 
44 


CLEANLINESS. 

' '  Beauty  is  valuable  ;  it  is  one  of  the 
tics  ;  and  a  strong  tie  too,  that,  how- 
ever, cannot  last  to  an  old  age  ;  but 
the  charm  of  cleanliness  never  dies 
ifev    but  with  life  itself." 

CLEANLINESS  is 
next  to  Godliness. 
This  familiar  say- 
ing  has  been  traced, 
we  believe,  no  further 
than  to  John  Wesley's 
Sermon  XCIL,  "On 
Dress,"  where  it  ap- 
pears as  a  quotation. 
A  possible  source  is 
Bacon's    remark    in 
the    "  Advancement 
of   Learning,"  Book 
II.,  that  "Cleanness 
of  body  was  ever  es- 
teemed to  proceed 
from  a  due  rever- 
ence to  God." 

"The    man- 
ner of  putting 
on  a  dress  is 
1      no  bad  foun- 
dation    for 
^.       judging  — 
if    it    be 
carelessly, 
slovenly, 


45 


46  HOME    DISSERTATIONS. 

if  it  do  not  fit  properly.  No  matter  for  its  mean  quality;  mean  as  it  may  be,  it  may  be 
neatly  and  trimly  put  on;  and  if  it  be  not,  take  care  of  yourself,  for,  as  you  will  soon  find 
to  your  cost,  a  sloven  in  one  thing,  is  a  sloven  in  all  things. 

The  country  people  judge  greatly  from  the  state  of  the  covering  of  the  ankles;  and  if 
that  be  not  clean  and  tight,  they  conclude  that  all  out  of  sight  is  not  what  it  ought  to  be. 
Look  at  the  shoes;  if  they  be  trodden  on  one  side,  loose  on  the  foot,  or  run  down  at  the 
heel,  it  is  a  very  bad  sign;  and  as  to  slip-shod,  though  at  coming  down  in  the  morning, 
and  even  before  daylight,  make  up  your  mind  to  bachelorhood  rather  than  live  with  a  slip- 
shod wife." 

"  Oh!  how  much  do  women  lose  by  inattention  to  these  matters!  Men,  in  general,  say 
nothing  about  it  to  their  wives,  but  they  think  about  it,  they  envy  their  luckier  neighbors; 
and  in  numerous  cases,  consequences  the  most  serious  arise  from  this  apparently  trifling 
cause." 

Beauty  is  very  much  of  an  art  after  all.  The  lily  and  rose  complexions,  the  perfect 
luxuriance  of  hair,  the  general  perfection  of  face  and  form,  are  very  seldom  the  gift  of 
chance  conditions.  The  most  beautiful  woman,  as  a  general  thing,  is  the  woman  who 
knows  how  to  attend  to  her  toilet,  and  it  should  form  a  matter  of  instruction  in  the  educa- 
tion of  every  young  girl.  Between  the  two  extremes  of  artificiality  and  of  reformers' 
hygienic  notions  women  get  bewildered.  The  latter,  if  carried  out  to  the  letter,  make 
women  outre  in  the  extreme,  and  the  former  tend  to  disgust  delicate  and  pure-minded 
women,  so  between  the  two  the  average  woman  of  home  and  society  lets  herself  severely 
alone,  and  consequently  is  not  half  as  pretty  as  she  might  be. 

Emerson  says  of  the  English,  "They  are  positive,  methodical,  cleanly,  and  formal, 
loving  routine,  and  conventional  ways;  loving  truth  and  religion,  to  be  sure,  but  inexor- 
able on  points  of  form.  All  the  world  praises  the  comfort  and  private  appointments  of 
an  English  inn,  and  of  English  households.  You  are  sure  of  neatness  and  of  personal 
decorum.  A  Frenchman  may  possibly  be  clean:  an  Englishman  is  conscientiously  clean. 
A  certain  order  and  complete  propriety  is  found  in  his  dress  and  in  his  belongings." 

Rooms  should  be  thoroughly  swept,  thoroughly  dusted,  thoroughly  ventilated,  and 
thoroughly  warmed.  Beginning  fires  at  the  first  intimation  of  chilliness — continuing  till 
the  latest  breath  has  vanished. 

Carpets  should  be  thoroughly  swept  once  a  week.  Bits  of  paper  free  from  printing 
ink,  saturated  with  water,  is  best  for  sweeping  carpets,  tea-leaves  are  apt  to  stain,  and  salt 
to  rot.  The  first  dust  should  be  removed  with  a  feather  duster — then  with  a  soft  cloth. 
The  feather  duster  should  be  well  shaken  after  it  is  used,  and  washed  frequently,  as  it 
accumulates  dust,  and  if  not  kept  clean  it  will  leave  a  deposit  of  dust  upon  everything  it 
touches,  instead  of  removing  it.  Lambrequins,  draperies,  ceiling,  walls,  and  behind  pic- 
tures should  be  thoroughly  dusted  once  a  week.  Windows  thrown  open  once  a  day  ad- 
mitting all  the  sunlight  possible.  Table  linen  should  be  kept  perfectly  white,  laundried 
without  starch,  beautifully  polished  and  thoroughly  dried  when  ironed.  The  silver  bright, 
the  china  and  glass,  glistening  in  their  irreproachable  cleanliness. 


FOOD  AND  DRINK. 

Faces  speedily  gain  beauty  under  fit  care  and  food. — DR.  HOLMES. 

U"T  "*HE  saying  that  every  house  has  a  skeleton  in  its  closet  has  more  fact  than  poetry 

about  it,  if  we  are  to  take  the  evidence  of  our  sense  of  smell.     You  come  upon 

the  skeleton  behind  the  door  of  an  unaired  clothes-closet  press,  where  soiled  things 

and  stale  bedroom  odors  have  their  own  way  week  after  week,  till  you  wonder  nice  girls  can 

bear  to  put  on  dresses  which  hang  in  them. 

Too  many  pantries  and  food  closets  have  their  spectres,  if  we  judge  by  the  moldering, 
unsatisfactory  odors  about  ice-box  and  meat-safe,  and  the  worst  is,  that  it  doesn't  stay 
there,  but  comes  out  in  the  shape  of  dull  headaches  and  sore  throats  and  low  fevers  which 
haunt  the  house. 

This  is  serious  talk,  but  it  isn't  more  serious  than  the  facts  call  for.  Doctors  who  spend 
their  lives  looking  into  these  things,  tell  us  that  every  year,  out  of  a  certain  number  in  town 
or  country,  beside  the  old  and  infirm,  those  who  inherit  disease  or  die  of  accident,  twenty 
thousand  die  needlessly  of  illness  from  bad  air  and  bad  food.  They  are  not  all  poor  folks 
who  live  in  squalid,  fever-stricken  alleys  and  must  buy  the  refuse  of  the  markets  to  eat  at 
all.  The  most  luxurious  homes  suffer  equally  with  the  poor,  and  no  house  is  safe  until  the 
skeleton  has  been  hunted  out  and  laid  permanently  by  daily,  intelligent  care. 

Housekeeping  is  not  a  mere  matter  of  comfort  and  respectability,  and  every  woman 
and  girl  must  learn  their  responsibilities  ;  for  the  health,  strength  and  life  of  the  family  is 
in  their  hands.  The  food  people  eat  three  times  a  day,  the  water  they  drink,  the  air  they 
breathe,  constantly  have  more  to  do  with  their  happiness  and  success  than  money  or  tal- 
ents, and  more  to  do  with  their  long  life  than  any  other  care  and  medicine. 

Pure  water  is  growing  scarcer  to  find  as  the  country  is  older  and  more  closely  settled. 
For  water  may  look  clear  as  mountain  brooks  and  taste  sweet  as  the  rill  from  a  glacier,  yet 
be  very  unsafe  to  use.  One  thing  you  may  be  sure  of,  that  though  water  which  is  bright 
and  sparkling  may  be  unsafe  to  drink,  water  which  isn't  clear,  and  looks  and  tastes  un- 
pleasant, is  sure  to  be  dangerous. 

What  are  you  going  to  do  about  it  ?  Use  filtered  water  for  drinking  and  cooking  entirely. 
You  can  buy  a  filter  for  five  dollars,  and  you  will  find  it  the  best  use  you  can  make  of  the 
money.  Let  alone  health  and  safety,  in  a  week  after  using  it  you  will  begin  to  wonder  why  the 
meat  and  vegetables  taste  so  much  better,  and  remark  how  much  better  tea  and  coffee  this 
seems  to  be  than  the  last  you  had,  and  after  a  little  you  will  discover  it  is  owing  to  the  fil- 
tered water.  Everything  cooked  in  pure  water  has  a  finer  taste,  and  tea  and  coffee  are  not 
the  same  things  made  with  it.  But  a  filter  wants  care  ;  for  the  sponge  which  strains  the 
worst  impurities  out  of  the  water,  should  be  washed  and  dried  in  the  sun,  or  in  the  oven 
every  day,  or  it  soon  grows  foul.  The  best  way  is  to  have  two  sets  of  sponge,  and  let  one  air 
all  day  white  the  other  is  in  use.  Then  the  packing  of  sand  and  charcoal  in  time  is  clogged 

47 


48  HOME    DISSERTATIONS. 

with  impurities  which  begin  to  wash  back  into  the  water,  and  the  sand  has  to  be  washed, 
sunned  and  dried  and  the  charcoal  burnt  over  in  a  red-hot  retort  to  consume  the  waste 
with  which  it  is  loaded. 

Be  sure  to  get  one  of  the  new  filters  with  two  sets  of  strainers,  which  can  be  unscrewed 
as  easily  as  you  take  the  mold  out  of  an  ice-cream  freezer,  so  that  one  set  can  be 
cleansed  while  the  other  is  at  work.  To  make  sure  of  pure  water,  change  the  packing 
once  in  three  months.  If  you  cannot  have  a  filter,  and  are  not  certain  of  the  safety  of  the 
water,  boil  it,  and  let  it  cool  in  a  porous  earthen  jar  in  the  shade  and  wind.  Boiling  frees 
it  from  animalcula  or  vegetable  matter,  and  softens  it,  and  emigrants  whose  neighbors  were 
sickening  all  around  them  from  bad  water  of  ponds  and  marshy  springs,  have  kept  in 

-  perfect  health  by  drinking  no  water  which  had  not  first  been  boiled. 

J  You  can't  have  food  fit  to  eat  that  is  kept  in  a  close  cupboard,  however  clean.  If  you 
have  but  a  closet  to  keep  food  in,  it  must  have  a  window  and  a  gentle  draft  of  air  to 
carry  off  the  odors  which  else  will  spoil  all  the  more  delicate  flavors.  For  the  odors  of 
food  are  its  finer  parts,  and  in  an  airless  closet  these  settle  and  are  absorbed  by  the  wood, 
the  plaster,  the  milk  and  butter,  the  flour  and  other  eatables.  Then  you  have  the  butter 
turning  cheesy  or  frowy,  the  cream  taking  a  bad  taste,  the  milk  souring  sooner  than  it 
ought,  the  very  pies,  bread,  and  flour  losing  their  wholesome  sweetness.  In  the  store- 
room you  can't  keep  salt  fish,  sour  milk,  cheese  and  onions  in  all  their  fragrance,  and  have 
anything  else  nice. 

If  you  would  have  wholesome  food,  keep  the  pantry  window  down  at  the  top  night 
and  day,  except  in  the  coldest  weather. 

Food  of  all  kinds  keeps  better  on  clean  dishes,  so  don't  think  it  too  much  trouble  to 
pour  the  gravy  into  a  fresh  bowl  and  put  the  slices  of  meat  on  a  clean  plate,  and  turn  the 
few  spoonfuls  of  jam  into  a  saucer,  instead  of  leaving  it  in  the  smeary  compotier,  which 
is  a  better  name  than  our  awkward  "sauce-dish."  Reason  why:  thin  smears  and  daubs  of 
food  spoil  soon  and  help  spoil  the  rest.  Especially  see  that  the  milk,  cream  and  butter  are 
put  away  in  clean  ware.  Milk  will  keep  longer  for  this  precaution.  Then  everything  must 
be  closely  covered  with  cloth  and  small  plates.  It  is  well  to  buy  different  sizes  of  cheap 
ware  for  covers,  and  the  odd  little  pottery  mugs,  bowls  and  pitchers  are  very  convenient 
for  holding  bits  and  ends  of  food  too  good  to  throw  away.  Besides  food  keeps  better  in 
this  ware  than  in  anything  else. 

Fat  of  all  kinds  needs  the  nicest  care  to  be  sweet  and  wholesome,  for  nothing  takes 
odors  more  rapidly,  and  if  you  leave  cupfuls  of  grease,  or  drippings,  to  stand  open  in  the 
closet,  you  must  expect  to  find  a  queer  flavor  in  your  fried  potatoes,  and  several  different 
savors  in  the  plain  pie-crust  beside  the  one  you  wanted.  Keep  all  fat  for  cooking  in  a 
small  stone  jar,  well  covered,  try  it  out  once  a  week  into  a  clean  jar  and  let  it  cool  uncov- 
ered in  a  draft  of  air.  In  winter  set  it  out  doors  to  freeze,  which  refines  it  remarkably. 
At  other  times  keep  it  tightly  covered  in  the  ice-box.  Fat  that  has  absorbed  a  coarse 
taste  can  be  purified  by  freezing  and  become  good  again.  Keep  butter  in  a  small  stone 
jar,  closely  covered  top  and  sides,  with  clean  linen  cloths,  with  a  large  cloth  and  wooden 


FOOD    AND    DRINK.  49 

cover  over  all.  Butter  soon  loses  its  best  flavor  when  open,  and  becomes  not  much  better 
than  so  much  suet.  As  good  butter  is  the  keynote  of  the  table,  and  as  poor  butter  is  a  very 
unwholesome  thing  to  eat  at  all,  you  must  pay  particular  attention  to  its  keeping.  A  plate 
of  it  that  has  been  shut  up  in  a  closet  with  meat,  left-over  food  and  close  air,  is  not  fit  to 
enter  the  stomach  of  a  human  being.  Keep  milk  in  the  purest,  coldest  air  you  can  find, 
with  a  thin  cloth  over  it.  Don't  take  the  warm  new  milk  that  hasn't  had  time  to  get  cold 
since  the  milkman's  cart  hurried  off  with  it  from  the  cow,  and  set  it  away  in  a  tightly 
stoppered  can,  for  all  milk  wants  to  stand  open  to  the  air,  that  the  animal  heat  and  flavors 
may  pass  off  thoroughly;  if  this  isn't  done,  the  particles  in  the  milk  decompose,  giving  the 
unpleasant  odor  you  will  notice  in  close  cans,  and  making  it  unfit  to  use. 

Dairies  which  keep  the  milk  in  huge  close  tin  drawers  or  cans  instead  of  open  pans, 
make  a  great  mistake,  for  neither  butter  nor  milk  kept  in  this  way  is  fit  for  food,  nor  will 
it  keep  nearly  as  long  as  it  should.  Never  let  milk  stand  near  a  sink  or  any  refuse.  I 
have  heard  of  children  who  took  diphtheria  from  milk  which  had  absorbed  sewer  air  from 
the  vent  of  a  stationary  wash-basin  where  the  nurse  kept  the  pitcher  cool  at  night.  If  you 
must  keep  milk  in  a  sick-room,  nursery,  or  a  close  closet,  let  it  cool  and  air  for  three  hours 
in  the  best  place  you  can  find  for  it,  then  put  it  in  a  tight  can,  with  a  flannel  case,  and  set 
it  in  a  shallow  pan  of  water  in  a  draft,  which  will  keep  it  cool  and  preserve  it  sweet  as 
long  as  possible. 

The  care  of  meat  is  a  nice  thing,  too,  and  for  the  health  of  the  family,  needs  more 
attention  than  it  oftens  gets.  After  it  has  been  well-chosen,  bright  colored,  fine  grained, 
with  a  firm  white  fat,  freshly  cut,  with  no  dried  or  darkened  edges  or  corners  to  spoil,  and 
sent  home,  it  must  not  lie  in  paper  one  moment  more  than  is  necessary,  for  paper,  which 
is  nothing  but  pulp  of  rotten  rags,  glue  and  lime,  spoils  food  very  soon.  Take  the  meat 
out,  and  the  first  thing,  scrape  it  clean  all  over.  You  hear  persons,  tell  you  to  wash  meat 
before  cooking,  and  others  say  it  should  be  wiped  only,  for  water  washes  away  the  flavor, 
but  scraping  removes  all  that  is  not  good,  and  the  meat  keeps  better  for  being  put  away 
clean. 

Fish  should  be  cleaned  and  wiped  with  a  coarse  towel  and  lie  wrapped  in  a  clean  dry 
cloth  with  salt  over  it. 

Meat  may  be  kept  without  salt  by  searing  the  outsides  and  letting  each  cook  half  a 
minute.  This  closes  the  pores  so  that  the  juice  does  not  escape,  and  the  air  cannot 
readily  affect  the  flesh;  it  will  make  the  meat  tender.  Keep  it  in  pure  air,  away  from 
sour  milk,  yeast,  salt  fish,  or  any  strong  flavors,  for  meat  and  flour  absorb  bad  air  as  well  as 
butter,  and  spoil  the  quicker  for  it.  Vegetables  need  a  cool,  dark  place,  where  they  will 
not  freeze.  They  should  have  clean  bins  or  boxes,  and  be  cleaned  themselves  when 
stored.  A  furnace-warmed  cellar  is  no  place  for  them.  A  cold,  dark  cellar  or  garret  is 
the  best  place  for  fruit,  which  should  be  often  sorted  and  picked  over.  Apples  take  bad 
flavors  from  being  with  other  stores.  Pick  out  all  inferior  and  bruised  ones  first,  and 
make  them  into  apple  butter,  which  is  the  best  way  of  keeping  them,  and  is  always  ready 
for  pies,  and  as  a  compote. 


50  HOME    DISSERTATIONS. 

Potatoes  should  be  picked  over  in  February,  and  scalded  in  a  kettle  of  boiling  water 
for  two  or  three  minutes,  to  prevent  sprouting.  You  will  find  your  spring  potatoes  much 
better  for  it. 

Onions  should  be  kept  in  shallow  boxes,  and  need  as  much  looking  after  as  choice 
fruit,  for  they  are  very  sensitive  to  bad  air,  and,  when  not  in  the  best  condition,  are  about 
as  healthy  to  eat  as  diseased  meat.  When  perfectly  sound  there  is  no  healthier  food  than 
onions.  Fruits  and  vegetables  should  be  put  up  in  glass  jars  exclusively.  Sour  vege- 
tables, or  fruit  shut  up  in  tin  cans  six  months,  cannot  be  the  most  wholesome. 

The  rind  of  cucumbers  contains  a  very  strong  purgative,  which  is  the  reason  why  one 
should  be  very  careful  to  pare  them  perfectly,  and  soak  them  in  cold  water  an  hour  to  ex- 
tract the  drastic  juice.  One  last  word  :  Never  serve  any  dish  of  whose  perfect  sweetness 
you  are  not  entirely  sure.  The  slightest  stale,  flat  or  changed  taste  is  reason  enough  to 
throw  it  away.  I  knew  a  whole  family  made  violently  ill  by  eating  a  soup  which  stood  a. 
trifle  too  long  in  warm  weather.  Not  one  of  those  who  ate  it  tasted  anything  amiss,  but 
the  cook  confessed  she  couldn't  be  sure  whether  anything  was  the  matter  with  it  or  not, 
and  she  thought  it  too  good  to  throw  away.  I  don't  think  any  of  those  persons  got  well 
of  the  sickness  the  whole  summer  for  this  paltry  economy.  The  reason  why  such  care  is 
urged  in  keeping  and  storing  food,  and  keeping  dishes  and  cooking  utensils  strictly  clean, 
is  because  the  little  decay  or  ferment,  such  as  gives  the  rank  smell  to  ill-washed  kettles, 
will  start  a  change  in  food  which  is  very  dangerous  in  the  system. 

The  ice-box  or  refrigerator  requires  a  good  deal  of  care.  The  waste  pipe  should  be 
in  order,  so  that  no  water  stands  in  the  box,  for  water  melts  ice,  and  moisture  spoils  food 
quickly.  The  box  should  be  washed  thoroughly  with  strong  hot  suds,  rinsing  with  cold 
water,  wiping  and  airing  before  fresh  ice  is  put  in.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  keep  lumps 
of  charcoal  in  each  compartment  to  purify  the  air,  and  absorb  any  odors  that  may  escape. 

"When  your  mother  or  aunt  complains  of  dinner  not  agreeing  with  her,  or  one  of  the 
boys  calls  out  in  the  night  for  Jamaica  ginger,  you  don't  think  that  the  slightly  sour  bread,  or 
the  canned  tomatoes  that  had  grown  sharp,  or  the  stew  that  had  changed,  "not  enough  to 
hurt,"  as  most  cooks  say — those  few  drops  of  cankering  acid,  or  yeastly  ferment — have 
acted  on  the  sensitive  juices  and  tissues  of  the  body  like  verdigris  or  calomel.  People  can 
eat  food  that  isn't  just  right  a  good  while  and  not  notice  the  effect,  but  nature  always  pays 
her  debts.  These  things  have  what  doctors  call  a  cumulative  effect,  which  means  that  it 
grows  stronger  by  repetition,  till  an  ulcerated  sore  throat,  or  attack  of  colic,  pulls  one 
down,  and  he  never  gets  his  strength  fully  back  again. 

Be  thankful  if  you  have  senses  which  quickly  warn  you  of  unwholesome  air.  Never 
mind  if  dull  persons  tell  you  that  "the  smell  is  in  your  imagination,"  for  the  fault  lies  with 
them  not  you.  If  all  this  watching  and  looking  after  things  seems  too  much  effort,  re- 
member that  the  thing  in  this  world  which  can  be  done  without  effort  and  care  is  not 
worth  attempting,  and  the  best  inheritance  in  this  world  is  an  athletic,  healthy  spirit,  in 
love  with  work  for  its  own  sake,  and  which  counts  its  ends  worth  all  the  strength  and 
striving  one  can  put  forth." 


ENTHUSIASM    OF    LABOR. 

"  Labor  is  God's  ordinance."  — If  you  have  great  talents,  industry  will  improve 

them  ;  if  moderate  abilities,  industry  will  supply 
their  deficiency.  Nothing  is  denied  to  well-directed 
labor.  Nothing  is  ever  to  be  attained  without  it. 

THE  two  great  efforts  of  modern  times  are  to  dignify  labor,  and  to  make  it  pleasant. 
In  fact  we  are  every  day  witnessing  the  spectacle  of  the  blending  together  of  all 
classes.  Nobles  become  artisans,  and  artisans  become  nobles.  It  seems  that  rnan 
has  discovered  That  labor  is  God's  ordinance;  that  the  universe  itself  exists  only  by  the  vir- 
tue of  everlasting  toil.  This  is  seen  in  all  things  around  us — in  heaven,  in  earth,  and  in  the 
sea.  The  brightest  and  noblest  names  of  this  age  were  made  so  by  skill  in  the  mechanic 
arts. 

But  while  efforts,  and  successful  efforts  have  been  made  to  ennoble  labor,  but  for  the 
complete  accomplishment,  there  remains  to  be  created  what  may  be  termed  an  enthusiasm 
of  labor,  having  the  whole  system  so  organized  that  all  kinds  of  toil,  however  severe  or 
disagreeable,  will  be  sought  after  with  avidity,  and  with  the  same  enthusiasm  as  men  now 
aspire  to  accomplish  the  most  difficult  and  dangerous  feats.  It  was  a  noble  thought  of 
Fourier,  which  gave  a  favorable  idea  of  his  system,  to  distinguish  in  his  Phalanx  a  class  as 
the  Sacred  Band,  by  whom  whatever  duties  were  disagreeable,  and  likely  to  be  omitted, 
were  to  be  assumed.  We  see  an  exemplification  of  it  in  our  fire  department.  What  labor 
is  more  difficult  and  disagreeable  than  the  duty  of  a  fireman  ?  What  toil  is  more  danger- 
ous ?  And  yet  with  what  ardor  do  they  rush  to  their  work.  See  them  brave  the  hottest 
fires,  scale  the  loftiest  walls,  to  rescue  the  helpless  one,  and  work  for  hours  in  the  summer 
heat  or  the  cold  of  winter,  without  a  murmur  !  Nay,  sometimes  their  ardor  seems  to  in- 
crease with  the  necessity  of  greater  exertions,  and  their  strength  to  increase  with  the  con- 
flagration. Why  is  this  ?  It  is  the  working  of  enthusiasm. 

"  Every  great  and  commanding  moment  in  the  annals  of  the  world  is  the  triumph  of  some 
enthusiasm.  The  victories  of  the  Arabs  after  Mahomet,  who,  in  a  few  years,  from  a  small 
and  mean  beginning,  established  a  larger  empire  than  that  of  Rome,  is  an  example.  They 
did  they  knew  not  what.  The  naked  Derar,  horsed  on  an  idea,  was  found  and  over- 
matched for  a  troop  of  Roman  cavalry.  The  women  fought  like  men,  and  conquered  the 
Roman  men.  They  were  miserably  equipped,  miserably  fed.  They  were  Temperance 
troops.  There  was  neither  brandy  nor  flesh  needed  to  feed  them.  They  conquered  Asia 
and  Africa,  and  Spain,  on  barley.  The  Caliph  Omar's  walking-stick  struck  more  terror 
into  those  who  saw  it,  than  another  man's  sword.  His  diet  was  barley  bread;  his  sauce 
was  salt;  and  oftentimes  by  way  of  abstinence  he  ate  his  bread  without  salt.  His  drink 
was  water.  His  palace  was  built  of  mud;  and  when  he  left  Medina  to  go  to  the  conquest 
of  Jerusalem,  he  rode  on  a  red  camel,  with  a  wooden  platter  hanging  at  his  saddle,  with  a 
bottle  of  water  and  two  sacks,  one  holding  barley,  the  ether  dried  fruit." 

If  this  principle,  enthusiasm,  could  be  associated  with  all  labor,  a  great  result  would  be 

51 


52  HOME    DISSERTATIONS. 

produced.  And  it  may  be  done,  by  the  conviction  that  we  are  working  out  a  noble  des- 
tiny— that  we  are  touching  everywhere  the  springs  of  life — and  co-laborers  of  the  Infinite 
One,  in  beautifying,  adorning,  and  advancing  the  Universe — that  we  are  one  of  the  noble 
army  of  industrials,  through  whose  toil  the  world  goes  steadily  forward,  in  the  way  of  an 
everlasting  progress.  We  will  go  to  our  labor  with  joy  ;  nay,  with  enthusiasm  ;  because 
we  know  our  work  is  a  kind  of  worship,  or  prayer,  through  whose  mysterious  ways  we  ap- 
proach ever  and  ever  nearer  to  the  Perfect ! 

That  kindly  old  Greek,  Plutarch,  has  in  his  life  of  Numa  declared  his  convictions  that 
there  was  once  a  Golden  Age,  in  whose  era  there  was  neither  master  nor  slave;  such  an 
era,  to  be  sure,  there  may  yet  be  in  the  future,  when  the  race  shall  have  reached  a  purely 
Christian — that  is  to  say  morally  perfect  development ;  but  we  doubt  if  it  ever  existed  to 
any  extent  in  the  past.  For  in  this  country  where  we  claim  that  the  ballot  makes  all 
men  who  use  it  sovereigns,  we  acknowledge  at  the  same  time  that  in  one  sense  all  men  are 
servants. 

The  multitude  who  roll  over  the  capitalist's  money  for  him  are  no  more  his  servants 
than  he  is  theirs;  for  though  without  question  his  service  is  seemingly  pleasant  and  theirs 
frequently  painful,  yet  if  their  hands  and  their  industry  make  it  possible  for  him  to  procure 
his  luxuries,  it  is  his  money  and  his  brains  that  make  it  possible  for  them  to  procure  their 
necessaries. 

The  condition  of  the  served  and  servitor  has  existed  since  the  earliest  records — a  con- 
dition likely  to  remain  until  the  fullness  of  time.  One  cannot  be  independent  of  the  other. 
The  whole  fabric  of  society  is  thus  one  of  interwoven  dependence;  if  the  employed  cannot  be 
independent  of  the  employer,  neither  can  the  employer  be  independent  of  the  employed  ; 
each  owes  to  the  other  a  duty  in  the  complete  fulfillment  of  the  tacit  contract  between 
them,  so  that  on  the  whole  it  is  exactly  as  honorable  to  be  a  good  servant  as  to  be  a  good  mas- 
ter. And  if  this  be  true  as  between  man  and  man  in  the  outside  affairs  of  the  world,  it  is 
equally  true  in  domestic  affairs  and  between  woman  and  woman.  It  is,  if  possible,  more 
true;  for  the  contact  of  the  household  is  closer  than  any  contact  of  business  or  out-door 
occupation,  and  the  persons  thus  brought  together  are  more  mutually  dependent  for  com- 
fort and  happiness.  When  a  woman  secures  another  woman's  service,  she  does  not  buy 
her  body  and  soul  also  ;  and  when  a  woman  sells  to  another  woman  her  honest  labor,  she 
sells  the  understood  value  of  the  money;  on  the  one  hand,  wages,  home,  consideration, 
and  kindness  are  due;  on  the  other,  work,  faithfulness,  and  civility.  Let  enthusiasm  be  the 
..watchword  in  the  household — and  mutual  obligation  thoroughly  understood.  Recognize 
work  when  conscientiously  done,  but  do  not  over-praise,  which  will  ruin  the  best  servant. 
Repeat  the  necessary  instructions  until  sufficient  skill  is  acquired,  never  do  yourself  a  ser- 
vant's alloted  work  because  it  is  ill-done,  have  them  do  it  over  until  they  are  proficient. 
The  lack  of  enthusiasm,  and  neglect  of  fulfillment  of  duty  on  both  sides  causes  the  strong 
reverberating  discord  of  "  Domestic  Service,"  in  our  households,  and  can  only  cease 
to  ring  through  the  land,  and  have  cause  to  cease  when  enthusiasm  and  mutual  obligation 
is  exemplified  by  mistress  and  maid. 


TABLE    ETIQUETTE. 

Meat  is  much,  but  manners  is  more. — PROV. 
He  is  a  wise  man  that  knows  how  to  eat;  a  foolish  one  that  don't. 

"  Clinging  to  banished  customs  can  only  be  excused 
in  old  people  who  are  averse  to  changes  and  have 
earned  the  right  to  be  humored  in  these  things." 

"  T  T  is  an  excellent  custom  of  the  Quakers,  if  only  for  a  school  of  manners, — the  silent 
prayer  before  meals.     It  has  the  effect  to  stop  mirth,  and  introduce  a  moment  of 
reflection.     After  the  pause,  all  resume  their  usual  intercourse  from  a  vantage 
ground.     What  a  check  to  the  violent  manners  which  sometimes  come  to  the  table, — of 
wrath,  and  whining,  and  heat  in  trifles!  "     Take  plenty  of  time  to  eat. 
"  Manners  require  time,  as  nothing  is  more  vulgar  than  haste." 

"  Let  us  leave  hurry  to  slaves.  The  compliments  of  our  breeding  should  recall,  how- 
ever remotely,  the  grandeur  of  our  destiny.  The  compliment  of  this  graceful  self- 
respect,  and  that  of  all  the  points  of  good-breeding  I  must  require  and  insist  upon,  is 
deference.  I  like  that  every  chair  should  be  a  throne,  and  hold  a  king.  I  prefer  tendency 
to  stateliness,  to  excess  of  fellowship." 

"  Never  do  anything  in  a  hurry,"  no  one  in  a  hurry  can  possibly  have  his  wits  about  him. 
You  may  occasionally  be  in  haste,  but  you  need  never  be  in  a  hurry;  take  care — resolve — . 
never  be  so.  Negligence  usually  occasions  hurry. 

We  should  be  in  a  happy  frame  of  mind,  and  appear  at  the  table  with  light  hearts  and 
pleasant  faces. 

A  little  delay  between  the  courses  gives  time  for  cheerful  conversation,  and  would  be 
admirable  in  preventing  our  fast  eating. 

Prompt  attention  to  the  hour  as  an  invited  guest,  or  at  your  own  table,  is  of  the  great- 
est importance. 

Let  your  napkin  fall  carelessly  over  your  knee,  do  not  spread  it  over  your  lap,  nor  tuck 
it  under  your  chin,  nor  spread  it  upon  your  breast. 

Some  of  a  certain  class  of  young  New  Yorkers  are  awfully  proud  of  ex-President  Arthur. 
I  was  saying  to  one  of  them  how  the  president's  grand  manner  charmed  everyone.  Then 
he  gave  me  a  very  knowing  look  and  said: 

"Oh,  yes;  he  knows  how  to  eat  soup." 

"  Undoubtedly,  and  a  great  many  very  commonplace  people  know  how  to  do  likewise — 
myself  for  instance." 

"  How  do  you  eat  it,  pray  ? " 

"  The  regular  regulation  way,  to  be  sure,  as  laid  down  in  all  the  standard  works  on 
etiquette.  I  take  it  from  the  point  of  the  spoon,  and  no  matter  how  much  I  want  more, 
never  ask  for  the  second  plate  !  " 

"  You're  out  of  time;  go  eat  soup  with  the  mummies." 

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54  HOME    DISSERTATIONS. 

"  A  new  departure  in  soup  eating — and  I  without  the  pale!    For  goodness  sake,  post  me. 

"  Listen  to  your  preceptor.  The  newest  agony  in  soup,  the  aesthetic,  the  intense  man  - 
ner  of  imbibing  it  is  to  take  it  up  with  the  spoon  away  from  you  and  drink  it  from  the  side 
of  the  spoon,  making  a  graceful  movement  from  the  soup  to  your  mouth." 

"As  to  the  small  salt-cellars,  '  known  as  individual  salts,'  there  is  not  a  single  w:>rd  to 
be  said  in  their  favor.  In  hotels  they  are  particularly  offensive,  where  we  take  off  the  top 
only  to  find  suspicious  lumps  beneath.  A  friend  at  my  elbow  says:  '  Oh,  do  speak  of  that 
dreadful  habit  of  helping  one's  self  to  salt  on  the  table-cloth,  then  taking  it  up  on  ;he 
blade  of  the  knife,  beating  a  light  tattoo  over  the  contents jDf  the  plate,  and  finishing  v  ith 
a  decided  whack! 

"  Never  eat  with  your  knife.  Is  this  unnecessary  advice  ?  Go  into  any  restaurant  or 
hotel  and  observe." 

"A  point  in  etiquette  recently  decided  a  lawsuit  in  a  queer  way.  A  traveler  on  a  Ger- 
man railroad  train  attempted  to  eat  a  lunch  while  on  the  journey.  While  putting  a  piece 
of  bologna  sausage  in  his  mouth  the  train  stopped  suddenly,  causing  his  cheek  to  be  badly 
cut  on  the  edge  of  his  knife,  which  he  was  using.  The  man  sued  the  company  for  dam- 
ages, but  his  claim  was  not  sustained,  on  the  ground  that  it  is  a  breach  of  etiquette  to  eat 
with  a  knife." 

"  A  singular  will  has  been  probated  at  Jasper,  Tenn.  An  old  man  died,  leaving  a 
large  property  in  trust,  to  be  used  by  the  trustees  in  any  manner  they  may  deem  best  to 
suppress  the  habit  prevalent  among  men  of  eating  with  knives  when  forks  should  be  used. 
The  deceased  says  he  has  always  felt  the  disadvantages  of  early  training  in  that  respect. 
He  was  in  the  habit  of  reproving  everybody  at  hotels  or  elsewhere  he  saw  using  knives 
for  eating,  and  was  a  monomaniac  on  the  subject." 

It  might  as  well  be  said  here  of  the  marked  improvement  generally  as  to  the  use  of 
the  knife,  it  is  not  now  as  universally  sheathed  in  a  man's  or  woman's  mouth,  as  if  they 
were  sword-swallowers.  Thirty  years  ago  in  France,  the  use  of  the  knife  at  dinner  was 
almost  tabooed.  The  custom  was  to  divide  the  food  with  the  fork,  rather  an  awkward 
custom,  as  forks  have  generally  no  cutting  edge,  and  to  aid  the  act  of  conveying  food  to 
the  mouth  on  the  fork,  by  means  of  a  bit  of  bread  ;  which,  by  the  way,  is  very  useful  in. 
eating  fish.  Long  habit  makes  people  amazingly  clever  about  this  kind  of  thing.  To  eat 
with  gloves  on  is  female  snobbery.  Young  women  who  go  out  to  parties  may  be  lavish 
,  of  gloves,  and  may  be  indifferent  to  smearing  them  with  lobster  salad,  or  to  have  the  first 
finger  and  thumb  darkened  where  the  spoon  touches  them.  But  nothing  is  prettier  than 
the  freshness  of  a  woman's  hand,  and  the  best  fitting  glove  is,  after  all,  but  an  awkward 
thing.  Gloved  hands  that  feed,  to  keep  up  me  whole  dignity  of  the  thing,  should  find 
mouths  which  were  hidden  behind  veils. 

How  the  knife  and  fork  is  to  be  used,  or  what  is  to  be  done  with  them  when  the  plate 
is  passed  to  be  replenished  ?  We  think  the  question  divides  itself  into  distinct  phases,  if 
there  is  a  servant,  the  knife  and  fork  may  be  left  on  the  plate.  It  is  then  the  duty  of  the 
attendant  who  carries  the  plate  to  the  place  of  replenishment  to  take  care  of  the  knife  and 


"  EAT   AT   YOUR  OWN   TABLE   AS   YOU   WOULD   AT   THAT  OF   A   KINO,"   SAID   CONFUCIUS. 


56  HOME    DISSERTATIONS. 

tork,  putting  them  on  one  side  of  the  plate,  so  as  to  be  out  of  the  way  of  the  new  supply 
of  food.  But  this  leaving  the  knife  and  fork  is  quite  optional.  To  cross,  however,  the 
knife  and  fork,  is  inelegant,  and  gives  extra  trouble.  If,  however,  there  is  no  one  in  at- 
tendance, it  is  wisest  to  retain  the  knife  and  fork,  and  here  the  individual  knife-rests  are 
serviceable,  an  article  for  dinner  service  considered  indispensable  by  English  dinner  givers. 
As  soon  as  seated,  remove  your  gloves.  If  raw  oysters  are  already  served,  you  at  once 
begin  to  eat;  to  wait  for  others  to  commence  is  old-fashioned. 

"  The  mouth  should  always  be  kept  closed  in  eating,  and  both  eating  and  drinking  should 
be  noiseless.  The  mouth  should  always  be  wiped  with  the  napkin  both  before  and  after 
drinking.  A  wineglass  is  held  by  the  stem,  and  not  by  the  bowl.  Never  drink  a  glassful 
at  once,  nor  drain  the  last  drop.  No  one  should  refuse  when  asked  to  drink  with  another. 
It  is  sufficient,  however,  to  fasten  your  eye  upon  the  eye  of  the  one  asking  you,  bow  the 
head  slightly,  touch  the  glass  to  your  lips,  and  again  bow  before  setting  it  down.  Bread 
is  broken  at  dinner.  Vegetables  are  eaten  with  a  fork.  Asparagus  can  be  taken  up  with 
the  fingers,  if  so  preferred.  Olives  and  artichokes  are  always  so  eaten.  Fish  and  fruit  are 
served  with  silver  knives  and  forks.  If  silver  fish-knives  are  not  provided,  a  piece  of  bread 
in  the  left  hand  answers  the  purpose  as  well,  with  the  fork  in  the  right.  In  England,  it 
is  considered  to  be  underbred  even  to  transfer  the  fork  to  the  right  hand.  It  is  well  to 
observe  what  others  do  when  doubts  exist,  as  customs  differ  everywhere.  Bread  should 
not  be  broken  into  the  soup,  nor  the  "soup-plate  tilted  for  the  last  spoonful,  nor  the  last 
fragment  of  bread,  and  last  morsel  of  food  eaten.  Leave  a  little  for  manners. 

"  Finger-glasses  are  used  for  the  last  course.  Remove  the  d'oyley  to  the  left  hand,  and 
place  the  finger-glass  upon  it  as  soon  as  the  dessert-plate  has  been  placed  before  you. 
The  dinner  napkin  is  to  be  used  for  wiping  the  fingers,  and  never  the  d'oyley,  unless  at 
family  dinners,  where  colored  ones  are  used." 

"  Brillat  Savarin,  in  his  'Physiologic  du  Gout,' speaks  of  finger-glasses  in  connection 
with  the  small  goblet  of  water,  which  is  sometimes  placed  in  them,  as,  'equally  useless, 
indecent,  and  disgusting;  useless,  for  among  all  those  who  know  how  to  eat,  the  mouth 
remains  clean  to  the  end  of  the  repast;  as  to  the  hands,  one  should  know  how  to  use 
them  without  soiling  them;  indecent,  for  it  is  generally  a  recognized  principle  that  every 
ablution  should  be  hidden  in  the  privacy  of  the  toilette.'  He  brings  the  goblet  under  the 
head  disgusting,  picturing  the  offensiveness  of  its  use  in  most  graphic  language." 

"The  law  of  the  table  is  Beauty, — a  respect  to  the  common  soul  of  every  guest.  Every- 
thing is  unseasonable  which  is  private  to  two  or  three  or  any  portion  of  the  company." 

"  There  are  many  persons,  besides  those  who  sin  through  ignorance,  who  seem  to  be 
well  bred  in  other  respects,  and  yet  consider  table  etiquette  of  too  little  importance  to 
keep  up  with  the  changes  in  fashion.  They  judge  wrongly.  Things  trivial  in  themselves 
go  far  towards  making  people  attractive  to  others  or  otherwise.  Besides,  it  is  always  un- 
pleasant to  find  one's  self  ignorant  of  the  usages  of  polite  society." 


TABLE-TALK. 

If  thou  be  master  gunner,  speak  not  all 
That  thou  canst  speak  at  once,  but  husband  it, 
And  give  men  turns  at  speech.     Do  not  foiesta!, 
By  lavishness,  thine  own  and  other's  wit, 
As  if  thou  mad'st  thy  will.     A  civil  guest 
Will  no  more  talk  all,  than  eat  all  the  feast, 

JESSICA. — Nay,  but  ask  my  opinion  too  of  that. 
LORENZO. — I  will  anon;  first,  let  us  go  to  dinner. 
JESSICA. — Nay,  let  me  praise  you  while  I  have  a  stomach. 
LORENZO. — No,  pray  thee,  let  it  serve  for  table-talk; 

Then  howsoe'er  thou  speak'st,  'mong  other  things, 

I  shall  digest  it. — THE  MERCHANT  OF  VENICE. 

Pray  you,  sit  down; 
For  now  we  sit  to  chat  as  well  as  eat. 

— THE  TAMING  OF  THE  SHREW. 

HATTED  food,"  says  the  old  proverb,  "is  half  digested,"  and  there  is  no  doubt 
that  quiet  and  agreeable  conversation  at'  meals  increases  enjoyment  and  facili- 
tates digestion.  The  crisp  remark,  the  brisk  banter,  the  tart  gossip,  the  spicy 
anecdote,  the  sparkling  wit  and  bubbling  humor,  when  served  up  in  the  intervals  between 
the  various  courses,  have  all  the  exhilarating  effect  of  wine  without  its  dangers,  prevents 
dull  pauses,  and  sustains  that  lively  flow  of  the  animal  spirits  so  favorable  to  the  due  per- 
formance of  every  function,  especially  that  of  the  stomach  and  its  associated  organs.  The 
intrusion,  however,  of  serious  discourse  and  topics  of  business  requiring  deep  thought 
and  awakening  grave  reflection  or  anxious  emotion,  is  fatal  to  good  digestion. 

"  Tact  never  violates  for  a  moment  this  law;  never  introduce  the  orders  of  the  house, 
the  vices  of  the  absent,  or  a  tariff  of  expenses,  or  professional  privacies  ;  as  we  say,  we 
never  talk  '  shop '  before  company.  Lovers  abstain  from  caresses,  and  haters  from  insults. 
If  you  have  not  slept,  or  if  you  have  slept,  or  if  you  have  a  headache,  or  sciatica,  or  lep- 
rosy, or  thunder-stroke,  I  beseech  you,  by  all  angels,  to  hold  your  peace." 

"  Shun  the  negative  side.  Never  worry  people  with  your  contritions,  nor  with  dismal 
views  of  politics  or  society.  Never  name  sickness,  even  if  you  could  trust  yourself  on 
that  perilous  topic  ;  beware  of  unmuzzling  a  valetudinarian,  who  will  soon  give  you  your 
fill  of  it." 

Among  the  guests  are  some,  perhaps,  of  the  highest  rank,  always  some  of  high  political 
importance,  about  whom  the  interests  of  busy  life  gathers,  intermixed  with  others  eminent 
already  in  literature  or  art,  or  of  the  dawning  promise  which  the  hostess  delights  to  dis- 
cover and  the  host  to  smile  upon.  All  are  assembled  for  the  purpose  of  enjoyment ;  the 

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58  HOME    DISSERTATIONS. 

anxieties  of  the  minister,  the  feverish  struggle  of  the  partisan,  the  silent  toils  of  the  artist 
or  critic,  are  finished  for  the  day  ;  professional  and  literary  jealousies  are  hushed;  sickness, 
decrepitude  and  death  are  silently  voted  shadows ;  and  the  brilliant  assemblage  is  pre- 
pared to  exercise  to  the  highest  degree  the  extraordinary  privileges  of  mortals  to  live  in 
the  knowledge  of  mortality  without  its  consciousness,  and  to  people  the  present  hour  with 
delights,  as  if  a  man  lived  and  laughed  and  enjoyed  in  this  forever.  Every  appliance  of 
physical  luxury  which  the  most  delicate  art  can  supply,  attends  on  each;  every  faint  wish 
which  luxury  creates  is  anticipated  ;  the  noblest  and  most  gracious  countenance  in 
the  world  smiles  over  the  happiness  it  is  diffusing,  and  redoubles  it  by  cordial  invitations 
and  encouraging  words,  which  set  the  humblest  scranger  guest  at  perfect  ease. 

As  dinner  emerges  into  the  dessert,  and  the  sunset  casts  a  richer  glow  on  the  branches, 
still  or  lightly  moving  in  the  evening  light,  and  on  the  scene  within,  the  harmony  of  all 
sensations  becomes  more  perfect ;  a  delighted  and  delighting  laugh  invites  attention  to 
some  joyous  sally  of  the  richest  intellectual  wit  reflected  in  the  faces  of  all. 

One  happy  peculiarity  of  these  assemblies  is  the  number  of  persons  in  different  stations 
and  of  various  celebrity,  who  are  gratified  by  seeing,  still  more,  in  hearing  and  knowing 
each  other  ;  the  statesman  is  relieved  from  care  by  association  with  the  poet  of  whom  he 
has  heard  and  partially  read  ;  and  the  poet  is  elevated  by  the  courtesy,  and  each  feel,  not 
rarely,  the  true  dignity  of  the  other,  modestly  expanding  under  the  most  genial  auspices. 

In  Mrs.  Dodge's  "  Theophilus  and  Others,"  is  facetiously  recorded  a  bit  of  modern 
conversation.  "You  should  have  seen  Hobkins  at  our  table.  I'd  no  idea  plain  diet 
could  be  so  suggestive.  He  found  spectrum  analysis  in  the  salt  cellars,  international 
rowing  matches  in  the  spoons,  balloon  traveling  in  the  omelet,  and  co-operative  house- 
keeping in  the  hash.  He  drew 'survival  of  the  fittest '  from  the  cheese;  and,  as  John 
confidentially  remarked,  actually  shook  kindergartens  and  juvenile  delinquents  out  of  the 
baby's  feeding-apron.  He  found  prison  discipline  in  the  bread  ;  and  female  colleges, 
universal  sufferage,  and  bland  opinions  generally,  in  the  butter.  The  calves'-head  soup 
brought  forth  capital  punishment  ;  the  beef,  labor-union  systems ;  and  the  dessert  was 
full  of  '  Gates  Ajar '  and  spiritual  manifestations.  Once,  while  filling  his  teacup,  I  felt 
as  if  I  was  pouring  out  the  entire  Suez  Canal,  and  I  am  sure  I  often  dropped  in  a  railroad 
accident  with  the  sugar.  What  with  iron  cars,  and  elastic  platforms,  and  wide  gauges,  and 
new  brakes,  car-starters,  and  compensating  expansible  rail-joinings,  I  grew  confused  in 
spite  of  myself." 

Apologies  for  poor  dinners  are  out  of  place.     Shakespeare  says: 
And  oftentimes  excusing  of  a  fault 
Doth  make  the  fault  the  worse  by  the  excuse. 

English  stories,  bon-mots,  and  the  recorded  table-talk  of  their  wits,  are  as  good  as  the 
best  of  the  French.  In  America  we  are  apt  scholars,  but  have  not  yet  attained  the  same 
perfection.  Conversation  fills  up  the  gaps,  supplies  all  deficiencies.  What  a  good  trait 
is  recorded  of  Madame  de  Maintenon,  that,  during  dinner,  the  servant  slipped  to  her  side, 
u  Please,  Madame,  one  anecdote  more,  for  there  is  no  roast  to-day." 


DINNER   GIVING. 

"  We  ask  persons  to  dine  with  us  because  we  like  them  for  certain 
inherent  qualities."  Good  sister  let  us  dine  and  never  fret. — 

A  table  full  of  welcome  makes  scarce  one  dainty  dish. — 
Better  cheer  may  you  have,  but  not  with  better  heart. — COMEDY  OF  ERRORS. 
Bid  them  cover  the  table,  serve  the  meat  and  we  will  come  in  to  dinner. — MERCHANT  OK  VENICE. 

'*  T  F  our  circle  of  friends  be  large  we  must  be  acquainted  with  many  who  differ  ex- 
tremely in  all  their  social  characteristics,  to  say  nothing  of  their  pursuits,  sympa- 
thies, and  occupations  ;  and  it  is,  therefore,  by  a  judicious  admixture  of  the  guests 
that  we  bring  about  a  successful  party. 

A  bad  habit  prevails  among  inexperienced  dinner-givers  of  inviting  to  their  own  house 
precisely  the  same  company  whom  they  met,  only  a  week  or  two  previously,  at  the  house 
of  a  common  friend.  If  the  first  party  was  a  great  success,  the  second  is  more  likely  to 
be  a  failure,  although  it  was  that  very  success  which  induced  the  repetition.  The  common 
friends  assembled,  however  fond  they  may  be  of  each  other,  can  hardly  carry  on  the  bril- 
liant or  attractive  tone  of  conversation  of  the  first  to  the  second  edition,  especially  when, 
as  is  frequently  the  case,  there  has  been  not  more  than  a  week  or  fortnight's  interval.  It 
is  not  sufficient  merely  to  change  the  rooms  and  the  positions  of  the  host  and  hostess  ; 
some  new  elements  are  needed  to  season  the  talk,  and  so  bring  in  some  fresh  ideas. 

This  is  no  evidence  of  disregard  or  unfriendliness ;  it  is  only  the  natural  craving  for 
fresh  whetstones  for  the  tongue,  and  I  must  not  be  understood  to  mean  that  it  is  a  desire 
for  the  sake  of  change.  Of  course  I  am  assuming  if  we  do  meet  anyone,  to  whom  we  are 
only  partially  or  not  all  known,  there  will  be  something  in  them  which  will  accord  pleas- 
antly with  ourselves. 

You  may  bring  all  your  friends  to  know  each  other  by  turns,  to  become  gradually  inti- 
mate with  each  other,  and  even  to  like  each  other  by  these  means. 

"  A  grand  dinner  cannot  be  managed  to  the  entire  satisfaction  of  host  and  guests, 
unless  it  is  under  the  management  of  professionals,  whose  trade  and  business  is  the  sup- 
plying of  every  necessity;  they  have  trained  waiters — table  service,  with  full  knowledge 
of  the  quantity  and  requirements,  in  accordance  with  the  entertainer's  wishes.  By  the  em- 
ployment of  professionals,  the  hostess  is  relieved  of  a  mountain  of  care,  work,  and  anxiety. 

The  fashion  is  increasing  of  giving  large  dinner  parties  outside  of  your  own  house — 
then  all  trouble  is  at  an  end.  The  host  and  hostess,  only  in  name,  are  enjoying  the  feast 
the  same  as  their  invited  guests.  All  invitations  should  be  issued  a  week  or  ten  days  pre- 
v.'ously,  in  the  joint  names  of  host  and  hostess. 

R.  S.  V.  P.  placed  upon  invitations,  to  the  refined,  would  be  a  reflection  upon  their 
knowledge  of  etiquette  and  good  breeding  ;  but  nevertheless  is  used  to  a  great  degree, 
because  of  the  thoughtlessness  or  carelessness  of  the  invited  to  respond  at  once,  accepting 
or  declining.  The  necessity  of  an  immediate  answer  to  a  dinner  invitation  is  evident,  to 

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60  HOME    DISSERTATIONS. 

enable  the  hostess  to  be  sure  of  the  number  of  guests  which  she  desires.  The  time  of  ar- 
rival is  about  ten  minutes  before  the  dinner  hour,  not  earlier  or  later,  to  enable  the  hostess 
to  be  fully  prepared  to  meet  her  guests — make  introductions  and  arrangements  for  escorts 
to  the  table.  If  already  made,  gentlemen  will  be  handed,  by  a  servant,  upon  entering  the 
house,  cards,  upon  a  tray;  he  takes  the  one  bearing  his  name  and  that  of  the  lady  whom 
he  is  to  escort  to  the  table.  Ladies  and  gentlemen  appear  in  full  dress,  wearing  gloves, 
which  are  removed  when  seated  at  the  table,  and  need  not  be  worn  again  during  the 
evening. 

The  chief  waiter  announces  dinner,  by  bowing  to  the  host,  who  offers  his  arm  to  the 
honored  lady,  proceeding  first,  with  guests  following  to  the  dining-room  ;  the  hostess 
enters  last  with  the  honored  gentleman.  Each  couple  find  the  places  assigned  them,  as 
intimated  right  or  left  hand  of  the  table  and  by  the  dinner  card  at  their  plates.  A  gen- 
tleman offers  his  left  arm  to  the  lady  he  escorts  to  dinner  ;  he  places  her  at  table  at  his 
right  hand. 

Guests,  after  locating  themselves  at  the  table,  remain  standing  until  the  hostess  is 
seated  ;  ladies  are  seated  next,  their  escort  arranging  their  chairs  for  them,  when  they 
seat  themselves. 

Small  oysters,  or  clams,  when  served,  precede  soups.  Soup  is  passed  to  all  who  take 
it  or  pretend  to  do  so.  After  soups — guests  may  refuse,  or  take  whatever  pleases  them, 
the  menu  giving  the  information  as  to  the  various  dishes. 

Custom  designates  what  wines  shall  be  served  with  each  course.  No  gentleman  or 
lady,  however  severe  in  their  ideas  of  temperance,  will  manifest  their  convictions  while 
accepting  private  hospitality.  The  wine  is  poured  sparingly  into  the  different  glasses,  and 
glasses  are  lifted  as  toasts  are  drunk.  Accepting  hospitality  allows  no  liberty  of  criticisms 
of  the  conduct  of  the  host.  The  hostess  cleverly  arranges  the  seats  of  the  gifted  con- 
versers,  so  they  will  occupy,  as  near  as  possible,  the  centre  of  the  table,  between  the  host 
and  hostess,  to  enable  all  of  the  invited  to  be  entertained. 

Dinner  concluded,  the  hostess  bows  to  the  lady  at  the  right  of  the  host,  rises,  and  all 
the  party  follows  her  to  the  drawing-room.  If  a  theatre  or  opera  party  follows  dinner,  the 
coffee  is  served  at  the  dinner-table  ;  otherwise  it  is  served  in  the  drawing-room,  half  an 
hour  after  dinner  ;  the  hostess  sits  by  the  coffee  urn,  and  the  gentlemen  carry  the  cups  to 
the  ladies,  a  servant  follows  with  a  tray,  upon  which  is  cream  and  sugar. 

After  coffee,  guests  may  at  any  time  take  their  leave,  all  going  within  two  hours.  If, 
after  coffee,  parties  desire  to  leave  at  once,  it  is  correct  to  so  announce,  unobserved,  to 
the  hostess  before  dinner,  leaving  quietly,  unnoticed,  without  formal  adieus,  to  avoid  dis- 
turbing the  pleasure  of  those  remaining.  A  New  York  hostess  understands  this  polite 
withdrawal,  which  is  one  of  the  pleasant  customs  of  Parisian  etiquette. 

Etiquette  requires  that  a  call  be  made  by  each  guest  upon  the  hostess,  within  a  week, 
on  her  receiving  day,  if  she  has  one,  to  return  thanks  for  the  pleasure  enjoyed. 

If  by  card  left  in  person,  one  card  for  each  adult  member  of  the  family,  with  right 
hand  upper  corner  turned  down. 


DINNER  GIVING. 


/ 


"  Evening  dress  is  the  same,  what- 
ever the  nature  of  the  evening's  enter- 
tainment, only  the  gloves  are  dispensed 
with  at  dinner." 

Gentlemen  wear  black  dress  suits, 
the  coat  being  "swallow-tail,"  the 
waistcoat  cut  low,  the  cravat  white, 
thin  patent  leather  shoes,  and  kid 
gloves  of  the  palest  hue,  if  not 
white  as  prescribed.  The  shirt  front 
should  be  plain  ;  the  studs  and  sleeve- 
links  simple.  It  need  not  be  added 
that  special  attention  should  be  given 
to  the  hair,  which,  according  to  the 
present  mode,  is  neither  very  short 
nor  very  long. 

"  In  the  evening,  though  you  spend 
it  alone  with  your  family,  wear  a  black 
dress  suit ;  and  if  you  have  sons  bring 
them  up  to  do  the  same." 

The  theory  is,  that  a  gentleman 
dresses  for  dinner,  and  is  then  pre- 
pared alike  for  calls,  opera,  or  ball. 
Sunday  evening,  morning  dress  is 
worn.  No  one  goes  to  church  in 
evening  dress,  and  no  one  is  expected 
to  appear  in  it  at  home  or  away  from 
home  on  that  day.  In  some  circles 
evening  dress  is  considered  an  affecta- 
tion, and  it  is  well  in  provincial  towns 
to  do  as  others  do.  When  invited  to 
an  early  dinner  or  a  luncheon,  either 
in  the  city  or  in  country,  or  at  a  water- 
ing-place, the  suitable  dress  for  gentle- 
men is  a  black  frock-coat,  colored 
trousers,  white  or  black  waistcoat, 
and  a  colored  scarf. 


HOME    DISSERTATIONS. 


TABLE    RULES    FOR    LITTLE    ONES. 


In  silence  I  must  take  my  seat, 
And  give  God  thanks  before  I  eat; 
Must  for  my  food  in  patience  wait, 
Till  I  am  asked  to  hold  my  plate. 
I  must  not  scold,  nor  whine,  nor  pout, 
Nor  move  my  chair  nor  plate  about; 
With  knife,  or  fork,  or  napkin  ring, 
I  must  not  play,  nor  must  I  sing; 
I  must  not  speak  a  useless  word, 
For  children  should  be  seen,  not  heard; 
I  must  not  talk  about  my  food, 
Nor  fret  if  I  don't  think  it  good; 
I  must  not  say,  "  The  bread  is  old," 
"  The  tea  is  hot,"  "  The  coffee  cold." 


I  must  not  cry  for  this  or  that, 
Nor  murmur  if  my  meat  is  fat. 
My  mouth  with  food  I  must  not  crowd, 
Nor  while  I'm  eating  speak  aloud; 
Must  turn  my  head  to  cough  or  sneeae, 
And  when  I  ask  say,  "  If  you  please;  " 
The  table-cloth  I  must  not  spoil, 
Nor  with  my  food  my  fingers  soil; 
Must  keep  my  seat  when  I  have  done; 
Nor  round  the  table  sport  or  run; 
When  told  to  rise,  then  I  must  put 
My  chair  away  with  noiseless  foot, 
And  lift  my  heart  to  God  above, 
In  praise  of  all  his  wondrous  love. 


FRENCH    NAMES    OF    DISHES    USED    IN    MENUS. 


Oysters,  raw .' Huitres,crussurdemicoquilles. 

"       Shrewsbury "       de  Shrewsbury. 

"       Rockaway "       de  Rockaway. 

"       East  River "       d'EastRiver. 

"       Blue  Points "       de  Blue  Points. 

"       Cherrystone "       de  Cherry  Stone. 

Saddle  Rock "       de  Saddle  Rock. 

"       stewed "       cults  si  I'etuves. 

"     Boston  style...      "          "  alaBostonnienne. 

"       fried "       frits. 

"       broiled "       grilles. 

"       roasted "       rotis. 

"       on  the  spit "       a  la  brochette. 

"       escaloped "       en  coquilles. 

"        fricasseed "       fricassees. 

"       iila  Bechamel "       a  la  Bechamel. 

Salmon Saumon. 

"      Trout Truite  saumonee. 

Brook  Trout "      d'eaux  vives. 

Mackerel,  Spanish Maquereau,  Espagnol. 

"          Fresh "          frais. 

Shad Alose. 

Striped  Bass Bass,  rayee. 

Sea  Bass "     de  mer. 

Black  Bass "     noir. 

Sheep's  head Sheep's  Head. 

Blue  Fish Poisson  bleu. 

White  Fish "       blanc. 

Weak  Fish Truite  de  mer. 

Codfish Morue. 

Halibut Plie. 

Kingfish Poisson  roi. 

Perch Perche. 

Pickerel Brochet. 

Smelts Eperlans. 

Eels,  fried Anguilles,  frites. 

"     alaMatelotc "          ala  matelote. 

stewed,  plain "          a  1'etuvee,  simple. 

Flounder Limande-carrelet. 

Filet  de  Sole,  fried Filet  de  sole,  frit. 

"      Tomato  Sauce..    "  "    ;t  la  sauce  tomato. 

"      Tartar  Sauce...    "  "         Tartare. 

"      au  gratin "  an  gratin. 

Smoked  Salmon Saumon  fume. 

' '      Haddock Merluche-EgleSn  fume. 

"       Herring,  English Hareng,  a,  1'Anglaise. 

Salt  Mackerel Maquereau,  sale. 

"    Codfish,  with  bacon Morue  au  lard  fume. 

"  hashed  with  cream. .Hachis  de  morue,  a,  la  creme. 
"        "       "      with  poached     "  "         aux  ceufs 

eggs.  poches. 

"        "    Ball "  "     en  croquette. 


Consomme  Soup,  plain Potage  consomme1,  naturel. 

"  with  poached     '  "  aux  ceufs  poches. 

eggs. 

Terrapin         "    "  a  la  terrapin  on   tortue 

d'eaux  vives. 

Green  Turtle  "    "  a  la  tcrtue  verte. 

Mock  Turtle  "    "  fausse  tortue. 

Macaroni         "    "  aux  macaroni. 

Vermicelli       "    "  aux  vermicelli. 

Rice  "    "auxriz. 

Julienne          "    "  Julienne. 

Colbert  "    "a  la  Colbert. 

Printaniere     "    "  a  la  Printaniere. 

Tomato  "    "alatomate. 

Pea  "    "  aux  pois. 

Chicken          "    "  alavolaille. 

Oyster  "    "  aux  huitres. 

Clam  "    "  aux  moules. 

Boiled  Leg  of  Mutton,  Caper    Bouilli  de  gigot  de   mouton, 

sauce sauce  aux  capres. 

"  Corned  Beef "    de  boeuf  sale. 

"       "         "    with  Cabbage.      "  "    aux  choux. 

"         "    with  Spinach.      "  "    aux  epinards. 

"       "    Pork  with  Sprouts..      "    de  pore  sale,  aux  sprouts 

ou  bourgeons. 

"  Jole,  with  Spinach "    joues  de    pore,  au  opi- 

nards. 

"  Chicken,  with  Egg  sauce..      "    poulet,  si  la  sauce  ceuf. 
"       "         with  Oyster  sauce      "        "       a   la   sauce  aux 

huitres. 

"  Turkey,  with  Cream  sauce      "    dinde  a  la  sauce  creme. 
"       "       with  Celery  sauce.      "       "      a  la  sauce  celeri. 

"  Beef  a  la  Mode Bceuf  a  la  mode. 

"      "    braised "    braise. 

"  Ham,  Champagne  sauce.. -Jambon,alasauce  champagne. 

Roast  Chicken Rots  de  poulet. 

"     Duck "       canard. 

"      Turkey ''       dinde. 

"      Lamb,  Spring "       d'agneau. 

"      Mutton "       mouton. 

"     Beef "       bceuf. 

"      Veal "       veau. 

"      Milk  Pig "       cochon  de  lait. 

Chicken,  broiled Poulet,  grille. 

"       a  la  Tartare..      "  "      alatartare. 

"    fried "       frit. 

'    breaded,Tomato  sauce.      "    pane  a  la  sauce  toinate. 

"    Maryland  style "    ala  Maryland. 

"    Viennastyle "    a  la  Viennoise. 

"    saute  a  la  Marengo "    sautu,  a  la  Marengo. 

"    a  la  financiere "    a  la  financiere. 

"    with  Mushrooms. .      "    aux  champignons. 

6.3 


HOME    DISSERTATIONS. 


Chicken,  saute,  with  Truffles.. Poulet,  aux  truffes. 

"  "    with  Rice "    an  riz. 

"    with  currie "    au  curry. 

"    Fricasseed, with  Olives.      "    fricassee  a  hi  sauce  d'ol- 

ives. 

"  "       auvinblanc  .      "         "          au  vin  blanc. 

"       au  chasseur..      "         "         au  chasseur. 
"       a  la  Creole —      "         "          a  la  Creole. 
Breast  of  Chicken,  au  vin       Supreme  de  volaille,  au  vin 

blanc.  blanc. 

"       a  la  Toulousaine.  "      a  la  Toulousainc. 

"       ala  Mont pensie.-  "      ulaMontpensier. 

"       with  Mushrooms-  "    auxchampignons. 

with  Truffles "      aux  truffes. 

Leg  of  Chicken,  with  Peas Cuisse  de  volaille,  aux  petits 

I  pois. 

"       ala  jardiniere "         a  la  jardiniere. 

"       alafinanciere "         a  la  financierc. 

Coquille  of  Chicken,  ala  creme.C'oquille  de  volaille,  a  la  creine. 
"       with  Mushrooms.  "    aux  champignons. 

"       with  Truffles "   aux  truffles. 

Tame  Duck, saute, with  Mush-  Canard,  saute,  aux  champig- 
rooms.  nons. 

"  "    with  Olives..        "  "        aux  olives. 

"  "    with  String         "  "        aux  haricots 

Beans.  verts. 

"  withTurnips.        "  "  aux  navets. 

"  "  a  la  Borde-         "  "  a  la  Bordelaise. 

laise. 
"  "   a   la   finan-         "  "alafinanciere. 

ciere. 

"  "  with  Truffles.       "  "  aux  truffes. 

"    en  Salmi  au  Chasseur.  Salmis  de  canard,  au  chasseur. 
"         "    alaBertrand..  alaBertrand. 

"         "    with  Olives "          aux  olives. 

Squab,  broiled Pigeon,  jeune,  grille. 

Pheasant,  English Faisans  a  1'Anglaise. 

"          White "       blanc. 

Partridge,  broiled Perdreaux,  grilles. 

"    saute,  with  Madeira...         "      sautes,  au  vin  de  Ma- 

dere. 

"       "with Mushrooms...         "          "       aux  champig- 
nons. 

"       "with  Truffles "          "       aux  truffes. 

"       "alafinanciere "  "      alafinanciere. 

"       "auxChoux "      aux  choux. 

"    Saimi,  aux  Olives Salmi  de  Perdreaux,  aux 

olives. 

"       "    a  la  Bourguig-  "        a  la  Bourguig- 

nonne.  nonne. 

"       "    au  chasseur "        au  chasseur. 

"       "    a  la  Perrigord "        a  la  Perrigord. 

Grouse,  broiled Coq  de  Bruyeres,  grille. 

"      saute  au  Madeira "    saute  au  Madere. 

"         "   with  Mushrooms.  "       "     aux  champig- 

nons. 

"         "  alafinanciere "    alafinanciere. 

"         "  au  chasseur...  "    au  chasseur. 


Filet  of  Grouse Filet  de  Coq  de  Bruyeres. 

"  saute,  a  la  Perrigord.  "      saute,  a  hi  Perri- 

gord. 

'     "  with  Mushrooms.  "          "    aux  cham- 

pignons. 

"    "  au  gratin "      an  gratin. 

Quails,  broiled  or  roasted Cailles,  grillees  au  roties. 

"  sautees,with  Mushrooms.      "      sautees,  aux  champig- 
nons. 

"       "    with  Truffles "  "  aux  truffes. 

"       "    withPeas "  "  aux  petits  pois. 

"       "    alafinanciere "  "  a  la  financicre. 

"       "  alapureedemarron.      "  "  a  la  puree  de  mar- 

ron. 

"    braised,  Celery  sauce "  braisees  a  la  sauceceleri. 

"        "    with  Onions "       "  "      oignons. 

"         "    ala  Toulousaine..      "       "    a  la  Toulousaine. 

"         "    alaFlamande "       "    a  la  Flamande. 

Eggs,  boiled (Eufs,  a  la  coque. 

"      fried "    frits. 

"         "    with  Ham "       "    aujambon, 

"         "       "    Bacon "       "    au  lard  fume. 

"      Spanish  style "       "    al'Espagnole. 

"      shirred "    sur  le  plat. 

"    brown  butter "      "         "    au  beurre  noir. 

"      scrambled "    brouilles. 

"    withParsley "        "    aux  fines herbes. 

"       "   Tomatoes "         "    aux  tomates. 

"        "   Mushrooms..     "         "    aux  champignons. 

"       "    Truffles "         "    aux  truffes. 

"       "   Ham "        "    aujambon. 

"       "    Bacon "         "    au  lard  fume. 

"       "   Smoked  Beef.    "        "    auboeuffume. 

"      Poached "    pochcs. 

"          "  with  Tomato  Sauce.    "       "    a  la  sauce  aux  to- 

mates. 

"         "      "    Anchovis "        "    aux  anchois. 

Omelette,  plain Omelette,  au  natural. 

"      withParsley "     aux  fines  herbes. 

"         "    Tomatoes "     aux  tomates. 

"        "    Cheese ''     au  fromage. 

"         "    Kidney "     aux  rognons. 

"        "    Ham "     aujambon. 

"         "    Bacon "     au  lard  fume. 

"        "    Sausages "     aux  saucisses. 

"         "    Chicken  Livers...        "     aux  foies  de  poulet. 

"         "    Mushrooms "     aux  champignons. 

"         "    Truffles "     aux  truffes. 

"         "    Green  Peas "     aux  petits  pois. 

"         "    Asparagus  Points.       "     auxturionsd'asperges. 

"        "    Oysters ''     aux  huitres. 

"         "    Clams "     aux  moules. 

"      Spanish  style "     al'Espagnole. 

"      Sweet "     aux  confitures. 

"      withSugar "     simple,  au  sucre. 

"         "    Jelly. "     alagelee. 

"        "    Rum "     au  rhum. 

"     ala  Celestine...  "     a  la  Celestine. 


FRENCH    NAMES    OF    DISHES    USED    IN    MENUS. 


Ham,  broiled  or  fried Jambon,  grille  ou  frit. 

"      with  Eggs "  "       auxoeufs. 

"      deviled "  "       aladiable. 

Bacon,  broiled Lard  fume,  grille. 

"       with  Eggs "        auxceufs. 

Pork,  fried,  plain Pore,  frit,  simple. 

with  Apples "       "      aux  pommes  f  rites. 

Smoked  Beef,  plain .Boeuf  fume,  simple. 

"    with  Cream "       alacreme. 

"    scrambled  with  Eggs.         "       brouille  aux  ceufs. 

Pig's  Feet,  plain Pieds  de  cochon,  naturels. 

"          breaded,  Tomato  "       panee,  a  la  sauce 

sauce.  Tartare. 

"       sauce  "      e  la  sauce  piquante. 

piquante. 

"       sauce  "          poivrade. 

poivrade. 

Sausages,  Country Saucisses  du  pays. 

"          smoked  Frankfort.        "       fume  de  Frankfort. 

Balls,  fried "       en  boules,  f  rites. 

Calf's  Liver  and  Bacon Poie  de  veau  an  lard. 

"  saut6  with  Mushrooms.  "       saute  aux  cham- 

pignons. 

"     "    a  1'Italienne "       a  1'Italienne. 

"  stewed,  American  style.  "       a  I'Americane. 

Sweetbreads,  plain Ris  de  veau,  simple. 

"  breaded, Tomato  sauce.          "       pane,  a  la  sauce 

Tomate. 
"    larded,  with  Mush-  "    pique  aux  champig- 

rooms nons. 

"        "    with  Truffles —          "       "    aux  truffes. 

"    a  la  financiere "       "    a  la  financiere. 

"      "    Toulousaine "       "      "  Toulousaine. 

Calf's  Head,  fried,  Tomato    Tete  de  veau,  frite,  a  la 

sauce.  sauce  tomate. 

"       a  la  vinaigrette "  frite,  a  la  vinaigrette. 

"         "   poulctte "     "       "    poulette. 

"         a  1'Italienne "     "      a  1'Italienne. 

"         en  tortue "     "      en  tortue. 

"         au  gratin "     "      an  gratin. 

Calf's   Brains,  with   brown    Cervelles  de  veau,  au  beurre 
butter.  noir. 

"       sauce  poivrade "  "       a  la  sauce 

poivrade. 

"    Tomatoes "  "       a  la  sauce 

tomate. 

"    Re'molade "  "       a  la  sauce 

Remolade. 

Calf's  Tongues,    sauce  Langues  de  veau,  a  la  sauce 

piquante.  piquante. 

"       in  paper en  papillote. 

"       a  la  Provenc.ale...  "         a  la  Provenc,ale. 

Kidney,  broiled,   plain,   on    Rognons,  grilles  en  brochette. 
the  spitt. 

"    deviled "  "       aladiable. 

"       stewed,  plain "       saute,  simple. 

"  aux  Fines  Herbes.       "          "    aux  fines  herbes. 
"  with  Mushrooms.       "          "    champignons. 


Lamb  Fries,  plain Amourettes  d'agneau,  simple. 

breaded,  Tomato  "    paneealasauce 

sauce.  tomate. 

sause  piquante...  "  a  la  sauce  piquant. 

Chicken  Liver,  on  the  spitt.. -Foiesdepoulet,  a  la  brochette. 

"    stewed,  plain "       sautes,  simple. 

with    Mush-          "       aux  champignons, 
rooms. 

"        "         Washington  "       a  la  Washington, 

style. 

Tripe,  broiled Gras  Double,  grille. 

breaded,  fried "       pane,  frit. 

sauce  piquante "       a  la  sauce  piquante. 

"      Tomato "       a  la  sauce  tomate. 

stewed  with  Onions —          "       saute  aux  oignons. 

"       Cream "       alacreme. 

"       alaLyonnaise "       a  Li  Lyonnaise. 

Pork  Chops,  broiled Cotelette  de  pore,  grille. 

"       a  la  maitre  d'hotel.-        "  "       a  la  maitre 

d'hotel. 
"       breaded,   sauce    pi-       "  "      panee,  a  la 

quante.  sauce  piquante. 

"    sauce     Toma-       "  "      panee,  h  la 

toes.  sauce  tomate. 

"       "    poivrade.       "  "        a  la  sauce 

poivrade. 

'    Robert..        "  "        a  la  sauce 

Robert. 

"    deviled "  "        aladiable. 

Pork  Tenderloin,  broiled Filet  de  Pore,  grille. 

"    with  fried  apples.  "       aux  pommes  f  rites. 

Veal  Chops,  plain Cotelette  de  veau,  simple. 

breaded,  Tomato  •'       paneealasauce 

sauce.  >         tomate. 

aux  Fines  Herbes..  "       aux  fines  herbes. 

"        alaMilanaise "       a  la  Milanaise. 

with  Madeira "       au  Madere, 

"      Green  Peas...  "       aux  petits  pois. 

Asparagus  "       aux   pointes 

Points.  d'asperges. 

in  paper .  "       en  papillote. 

Vienna  Schmitzel Schmitzel  de  Vienne. 

Lamb  Breast,  broiled Poitrine  d'agneau,  grillee. 

"         breaded,    Tomato  "       panee,  a  la  sauce 

sauce.  tomate. 

piquante  "    a  la  sauce  piquante. 

sauce 

Lamb  Chops,  broiled Cotelettes  d'agneau,  grilles. 

"          "  breaded, Tomato          "  "    paneesala 

sauce.  sauce  tomate. 

"          "    with  Mushrooms..        "  "    aux  cham- 

pignons. 

"    with  Truffles "  "    aux  truffes. 

"    with   Asparagus  "  "  aux  pointes 

Points.  d'asperges. 

"          "    sautee   a  1'Ital-          "  "     saut6es  a 

ienne.  1'Italienne. 


66 


HOME    DISSERTATIONS. 


Lamb  Chops,  sautee  a  la  Ly-    Cot.elettes  d'agneau,  sautees  a 

onnaise.  la  Lyonnaisc. 

"  "  "  alaSoubise.        "  "  sautees  a   la 

Soubisc. 

"  "  "  a  la  finan-  "       "    a   la   fi- 

ciere.  nancierc. 

"  "  "  in  paper.  "  "     en  papillote. 

Mutton  Chops,  broiled "  de  mouton,  grillees. 

"  breaded,  Tomato       "  "       paneesala 

sauce.  sauce  tomate. 

"  with  Mushrooms.       "  "       aux  cham- 

pignons. 

"  with  Truffles "  "      aux  truffes. 

"  with  Green  Peas.        "  "       aux  pctits 

T-ois. 

Beefsteak,  plain Bifstecks,  simple. 

"          withOnions "          aux  oignons. 

"          with  Mushrooms...        "          aux  champignons. 

Sirloin,  plain Entre-cotes  de  bceuf,  simple. 

"       with  Mushrooms "      aux  champignons. 

"       with  Truffles "      aux  truffes. 

"       with  Olives "      aux  olives. 

"       a  la  Bordelaise "     a  la  Bordelaise. 

"       a  la  financiere "      a  la  financiere. 

Tenderloin,  plain Filet  de  bceuf,  simple. 

with  Olives "      aux  olives. 

"  with  Mushrooms.  "      aux  champignons. 

"  with  Truffles "      aux  truffes. 

"  with  Tomatoes. ..  "      auxtomates. 

"  with  Marrow "      a  la  sauce  moe'lle. 

"  with  Anchovies  "      aubeurred'anchois. 

butter. 

"  a  la  Bernaise "      a  la  Bearnaise. 

"  a  la  financiere....  "      a  la  financiere. 

Filet  de  Bceuf  Chateaubriand. Filet  de  bceuf  Chateaubriand. 
Entre  cote  de  Bceuf,  double. .Entre-cote  de  bceuf,  double. 

Porter-house  Steak Porter-house  steak. 

•'  extra  cut.  tranche  extra. 

Hamburg  Beefsteak Bifsteck  a  la  mode  de  Ilam- 

bourg. 

Asparagus Asperges. 

Cauliflower Chouxfleurs. 

Brussels  Sprouts Choux  de  Bruxelles. 

Artichokes Artichauts. 

Peas Petit  pois. 

String  Beans Haricots  verts. 

Lima  Beans "       de  Lima. 

Green  Corn Mai's  de  Turquie. 

Succotash Succotash. 

Mushrooms Champignons. 

Oyster  Plant Salsifis. 

Spinach Epinards. 

Parsnips Panais. 

Turnips Navets. 

Cabbage Choux. 

Squash Potirons. 

Beets...  ...Betteraves. 


Egg  Plant Aubergines. 

Onions Oignons. 

Tomatoes,  stuffed Tomates,  farcies. 

stewed "         saut6es. 

"          broiled "         grillees. 

Celery,  au  jus Celeri,  au  jus. 

Maryland  Hominy Hominy  du  Maryland,  mai's 

bouilli. 

Rice,  boiled Riz,  bouilli. 

"     croquette "     encroquette. 

"     alaMilanaise "     a  la  Milanaise. 

Macaroni,  plain Macaroni,  simple. 

augratin "  au  gratin. 

a  la  Milanaise "          alaMilanaise. 

Potatoes,  boiled  or  roasted... Pommes  de  terre,  bouillies  on 

roties. 

"         fried, plain "  frites,  sinple. 

"     Julienne "    a  la  Ju- 

lienne. 

"     alaParisienne,  "  "    a  la  Par- 

isienne. 

"  "     Saratoga  style.  "  "a  la  mode 

de  Saratoga. 

"         griddled "          grillees. 

"         sautees,  plain "  sautees  simple- 

ment. 
"        a  la  Lyon-  "  a  la  Lyon- 

naise.  naise. 

"  "       Dutch  style.  "  a    la    IIol- 

landaise. 
"       stewed,  a  la  maitre  "alamaitre 

d'hotel.  d'hotel. 

"       hashed  with  Cream..  "  enhachi,ala  creme. 

"       browned augratin. 

mashed '. "  en  purees. 

"       browned "         "    augratin. 

"       alaDuchesse "         "    a  la  Duchess. 

"       croquette "         "  en  croquettes. 

Sweet   Potatoes,  boiled   or  "    douces,    bouillies 

roasted.  ou  roties. 

"  "  fried "         "          frites. 

"  "  broiled "         "          grillees. 

Bermuda  Potatoes "    Bermudes. 

Lettuce,  Salad Salade  de  laitue. 

Chicken     "     "       de  volaille. 

Lobster      "     "       de  homard. 

Dandelion"     "       de  pissenlit. 

Cresses      " "       de  cresson. 

Celery        "     "      de  celeri. 

Tomato     "     "      de  tomate. 

Cucumber" "      de  concombre. 

Chicory      "     "       de  chicoree. 

Italian       "     "       al'Italienne. 

Russian     "     "      alaRusse. 

Anchovis  "     "       aux  anchois. 

Herring      " "       d'hareng. 

Potato       "     "       de  pommes  de  terre. 


FRENCH    NAMES   OF    DISHES    USED    IN    MENUS. 


67 


Camembert  Cheese Fromage  de  Camembert. 

Rochefort         "        "         de  Roquefort. 

Naufchatel       "       "        de  Neufchatel. 

Brie  "        "         de  Brie. 

Stilton  " "         do  Stilton. 

Swiss  "       "        de  Gruyere. 

English  "        "        Anglais. 

American          "       "        American. 

Jelly,  with  Champagne Gelee  au  vin  de  champagne. 

"         "     Rum "      au  rhum. 

"         "     Port  Wine "      a  1' Oporto. 

"         "     Sherry  Wine "      au  sherry. 

Meringues  of  Peaches Me'ringues  de  pe'ches. 

Apples "          depommes. 

Strawberries "          de  fraises. 

Omelette  souffle'e Omelette  soufflee. 

Meringues,  a  la  Creme Meringues  a  la  creme. 

panach6es "          panache'es. 

Charlotte  Russe,  &  la  CrSme.. Charlotte  Russe,  a  la  creme. 
"     alaChantilly.       "  "     a  la  Chantilly. 

Cup  Custard Creme  cuite. 

"  Soft  Lemon  Custard "  "    au  citron. 

Fruit  Pies,  in  season Tartes  de  fruits  delasaison. 

Blanc  Mange — Blano  mange. 

Cakes,  Pound Gateaux  au  beurre. 

"      Sponge "       biscuit  cumin. 

"      Fancy "       garnis. 

"      Lady "       a  la  Dame  Blanche. 

"      Lady  Fingers "       buscuits  a  la  cuiller. 

"      Dry,  assorted... "       sees. 

Ginger  Snaps "       snaps  au  gingembre. 

"       Bread "  "     pain  de  gingem- 

bre. 

Croquettes  Parisian "       croquettes  a  la  Paris- 

ienne. 

Carlsbad  Wafers "       gauf  res  a  la  Carlsbad. 

Macarons,  in  variety "       macarons,  assortis. 

Ice  Cream,  VanilJa  Glaces  a  la  vaniile. 

"          Strawberry "      aux  fraises. 

Chocolate "     au  chocolat. 

Pistache "     aupistache. 

"          Coffee "     caf6. 

Mixed "      melees. 

Neapolitan "      Napolitaines. 

Fancy  Neapolitan-      "  moule'es. 

Meringues,  glacees "      me'ringues,  glace'es. 

Charlotte  Russe,  glac6e "     charlotte          " 

Tutti  Frutti "      tutti  frutti. 

Lemon  Ice Glaces  a  1'eau,  au  citron. 

Orange      " "  "       a  1'orange. 

Strawberry  Ice "  "       aux  fraises. 

Raspberry     " "  "       aux  framboises. 

Pine  Apple    "  "  "       al'ananas. 

Remain  Punch Punchs  glacis,  a  la  Romaine. 

Siberian     "      "         "       a  la  Sibe'rienne. 

Cardinale  "      "         "       a  la  cardinal. 

Mixed  Fruits  Punch "         "      aux  mille  fruits. 

Strawberries  and  Cream Fraises  a  la  creme. 

Raspberries     "         "      Framboises     " 


Blackberries  and  Cream Mures  a  la  creme. 

Peaches  "        "       Peches       " 

Cantelope Melons  cantaloups. 

Water  Melon "       d'eau. 

Oranges Oranges. 

Bananas Bananes. 

Assorted  Fruits Fruits  assortis. 

Hot  House  Grapes Raisins  de  serre. 

Malaga  "      "      de  Malaga. 

Native  "      "      du  pays. 

Apples Pommes. 

Pears Poires. 

Black  Hamburg  grapes Raisins  noirs  de  Hambourg. 

Coffee Caf<§. 

"     with  Cream "    a  la  creme. 

"      French,  a  Tass "    a  la  Francaise. 

Tea,  English  Breakfast Th6,  dejeuner  Anglais. 

"    Black "     noir. 

"    Green "      vert. 

"    Mixed "     mele. 

"    Mandarin "      Mandarin. 

Chocolate Chocolat. 

Broma Broma. 

Cocoa Cacao. 

Iced  Coffee  Cafe,  glace. 

"       "     Bavarois "     Bavarois  glace1. 

"    Tea The1,  glace. 

"      "  Bavarois "      Bavarois  glace. 

Goblet  of  Cream Un  verre  de  creme. 

Milk "        de  lait. 

Rolls,  French Petits  pains,  Frangais. 

"      Flutes "  flutes. 

"      Albany, "  d'Albany. 

"      Graham "  Graham. 

"      Corn  Bread "  dema'is. 

Muffins,  American Muffins,  a  1'Americaine. 

"        English "       al'Anglaise. 

Berliner  Pretzel Pretzel  de  Berlin. 

Vienna  Butter  Wreaths Butter  Wreaths  de  Vienne. 

Paris  Brioche Brioches  de  Paris. 

German  Coffee  Cakes Gateaux  au  caf6,  a  1'Alle- 

mande. 
Toast,  Dry Pain  roti,  sec. 

"      Zwieback "         Zwieback. 

"      Buttered "         beurre'. 

"      Dipped "         a  1'eau. 

"      Milk "         aulait. 

"      Cream "         alacre'me. 

"      Anchovis "         a  1'anchois. 

"      Graham  Bread "          de  Graham. 

"      Boston  Brown  Bread. -.       "         brun  de  Boston. 

Bread,  plain,  American Pain,  simple,  Ame'ricaia. 

"     Graham "         "        de  Graham. 

"      Boston  Brown..    "         "        brun  de  Boston. 

"      French,  Split "     fendu  Franc.ais. 

"  "        Jokos "     Jokoa       " 

Cakes,  Buckwheat Crepe  de  sarrasin. 

"       Wheat "     defroment. 

"       Indian — "     Indiens. 


"WHERE"   IS    THE    MAN    THAT    CAN    LIVE 
WITHOUT     DINING?" 


We  may  live  without  poetry,  music  and  art ; 
We  may  live  without  conscience  and  live  without  heart ; 
We  may  live  without  friends,  we  may  live  without  books, 
But  civilized  man  cannot  live  without  cooks. 

We  may  live  without  books — what  is  knowledge  but  grieving  ? 
We  may  live  without  hope — what  is  hope  but  deceiving  ? 
We  may  live  without  love — what  is  passion  but  pining  ? 
But  where  is  the  man  that  can  live  without  dining  ? 

— Owen  Meredith  (Lord  Lyttori). 


SOUP. 

«y^~^vF  all  soups  the  most  common  and  susceptible  to  variations  is  one  in  which 
1J  the  stock  is  prepared  of  beef.  The  trouble  with  the  average  American- 
prepared  meat  soup  is  that  it  is  too  greasy  and  thick.  German  soups  are  often 
thick,  but  seldom  greasy.  Everything  is  liable  to  be  run  across  in  a  Scandinavian  soup, 
from  a  small  sardine  to  a  raisin  or  a  grain  of  allspice.  But  the  delicious  French  soups  are 
always  clear." 

"  The  proper  method  of  extracting  the  juice  of  meat  for  soup  is  exactly  the  reverse  of 
that  practiced  in  cooking  meat  which  is  intended  to  be  eaten.  The  meat  must  be  cut  into 
small  pieces,  put  into  cold  water  and  slowly  heated  till  boiling.  Indeed,  the  more  slowly 
the  better,  because  cold  water  is  a  better  solvent  of  the  juice  than  hot  water;  the  heat  being 
only  necessary  to  cook  the  juice  after  it  has  been  extracted,  to  coagulate  the  albumen, 
which  is  separated  as  scum,  and  to  dissolve  the  gelatine. 

A  liquor  intended  as  a  basis  for  most  soups  and  sauces  should  have  its  due  proportion 
of  gelatine. 

This  liquor,  if  intended  especially  for  white  soups,  is  best  made  of  poultry  or  veal, 
which  furnishes  more  gelatine  than  any  other  kind  of  meat;  and  to  supply  flavor,  in  which 
veal  is  deficient,  some  lean  ham  or  bacon  is  used,  in  the  proportion  of  half  a  pound  to  six 
pounds  of  veal  and  two  gallons  of  water. 

For  other  soups,  particularly  brown  soups,  beef  is  the  best,  having  a  richer  flavor. 
Meat  of  any  sort  (except  pork),  bones,  trimmings,  etc.,  may,  however,  be  used,  and  the 
liquor  in  which  boiled  meat  has  been  cooked  may  be  used  instead  of  water.  The  scum 
should  be  removed  as  it  rises,  and  all  fat  should  be  skimmed  off.  In  from  three  to  four 
hours  the  juice  will  be  thoroughly  extracted,  after  which  the  boiling  should  cease,  because 
if  the  fibres  of  the  meat  begin  to  separate  they  will  destroy  the  transparency  of  the  soup. 
The  liquor  being  then  strained  is,  in  the  language  of  the  kitchen,  called  stock,  and  by 
the  addition  of  proper  seasonings,  vegetables  and  coloring  and  thickening  substances, 
may  be  converted  into  almost  any  kind  of  soup. 

GLAZE. 

Stock,  when  reduced  by  boiling  to  a  rather  thick,  yellowish-brown  fluid,  is  called  glaze. 
This  forms  a  strong  jelly  when  cold,  and  will  keep  good  in  that  state  for  a  considerable 
time.  It  is  useful  among  other  purposes,  for  making  soups  and  sauces  upon  short  notice. 
Portable  soup  consists  simply  of  a  very  strong  gelatinous  glaze  dried  in  the  form  of  tablets 
similar  to  glue. 

The  more  volatile  ingredients,  such  as  ketchup,  aromatic  spices,  etc.,  should  not  be 
added  until  the  soup  is  ready,  because  their  flavor  evaporates,  and  if  added  earlier  a 
larger  quantity  of  them  will  be  required.  All  other  ingredients  should  have  ample  time 
to  incorporate.  fi 


70  HOME    DISSERTATIONS. 

VEGETABLES   IN    SOUP. 

When  vegetables  are  intended  to  appear  in  slices  in  the  soup,  an  hour's  boiling  will 
suffice  to  cook  them,  but  when  intended  to  flavor  and  thicken  they  should  be  grated  and 
added  early. 

BROWNING   TO   COLOR   SOUP. 

Broum  soup  is  merely  a  clear  beef  soup  stock  colored.  To  make  the  browning  fry  (saute), 
till  well  browned,  a  small  portion  of  the  meat  used,  along  with  some  onions,  before  adding 
the  water.  A  very  good  "browning  "  consists  of  sugar  heated  in  a  stew-pan  until  black- 
ened, but  not  burnt,  and  then  melted  in  water.  In  this  process  the  sugar  loses  its  sweet- 
ness, but  does  not  become  bitter  unless  too  much  heated.  A  few  drops  of  this  browning 
suffices.  Flour  browned  in  the  oven  is  a  very  good  coloring  substance  for  soups  that 
require  thickening.  Other  browning  .substances  are  also  employed,  such  as  toasted  bread, 
or  dark-colored  ketchup. 

TO    MAKE    SOUP   CLEAR. 

Should  clear  stock  turn  out  not  so  transparent  as  desired,  it  may  be  clarified  in  the 
following  manner:  Whisk  the  white  of  eggs  with  a  little  cold  water  in  a  basin,  to  which 
add  gradually  some  of  the  soup,  still  whisking  the  mixture.  Pour  this  slowly  into  the  boil- 
ing soup,  stirring  it  rapidly.  Continue  stirring  till  the  soup  again  nearly  boils,  then 
remove  from  the  fire  and  allow  it  to  stand  till  the  white  of  egg  separates.  Lastly  strain 
the  soup  through  a  clean  cloth.  About  one  egg  is  required  for  each  quart  of  soup. 

Vegetables  make  a  stock  sour  very  quickly,  so  if  you  wish  to  keep  stock  do  not  use 
them.  Many  advise  putting  vegetables  into  the  stock-pot  with  the  meat  and  water,  and 
cooking  from  the  beginning.  When  this  is  done  they  absorb  the  fine  flavor  of  the  meat 
and  give  the  soup  a  rank  taste.  They  should  cook  not  more  than  an  hour — the  last  hour 
— in  the  stock.  Potatoes  if  boiled  in  the  soup,  are  thought  by  some  to  render  it  unwhole- 
some, from  the  opinion  that  the  water  in  which  potatoes  have  been  cooked  is  almost  a 
poison.  As  potatoes  are  a  part  of  every  dinner,  it  is  very  easy  to  take  a  few  out  of  the 
pot  in  which  they  have  been  boiled  by  themselves,  and  cut  them  up  and  add  them  to  the 
soup  just  before  it  goes  to  the  table.  The  soup  should  be  seasoned  but  very  slightly  with 
salt  and  pepper.  If  too  much  it  may  spoil  it  for  the  taste  of  most  of  those  who  are  to  eat 
it;  but  if  too  little,  it  is  easy  to  add  more. 

A  soup  stock  must  be  cooled  quickly  or  it  will  not  keep  well.  In  winter  any  kind  of 
stock  ought  to  keep  a  week.  That  boiled  down  to  a  jelly  will  keep  the  longest.  In  the 
warm  months  three  days  will  be  the  average  time  stock  will  keep. 

STOCK  FOR  CLEAR  SOUP. 

During  cold  weather  the  stock  for  beef  soup  can  be  kept  on  hand.  At  any  season  it 
should  always  be  prepared  the  day  before  using.  The  shin  is  a  good  piece  for  this  pur- 
pose, or  the  lower  part  of  the  round.  Have  the  bones  well  cracked  and  extract  the  mar- 
row, which  should  be  put  in  the  soup.  To  each  pound  of  lean  beef  allow  one  quart  of 


SOUP.  71 

water.  Put  five  pounds  of  beef  into  five  quarts  of  cold  water  into  a  close  kettle  and  set 
it  where  it  will  heat  gradually.  Let  it  boil  very  slowly  for  six  or  seven  hours.  Look  at  it 
once  in  a  while  to  see  if  the  water  is  sinking  too  rapidly.  Should  this  be  the  case,  replen- 
ish it  with  boiling  water,  taking  care,  however,  not  to  add  too  much  of  it.  When  it  has 
boiled  seven  hours,  remove  the  meat,  which  can  be  used  for  salad  with  potatoes  and 
onions.  Strain,  and  set  away  to  cool.  In  the  morning  skim  off  all  the  fat  and  turn  the 
soup  into  the  kettle,  being  careful  not  to  let  the  sediment  pass  in.  Into  the  soup  put  an 
onion,  one  stalk  of  celery,  two  leaves  of  sage,  two  sprigs  of  parsley,  two  of  thyme,  two  of 
summer  savory,  two  bay  leaves,  twelve  pepper-corns,  and  six  whole  cloves.  Boil  gently 
from  ten  to  twenty  minutes,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Strain  through  a  fine  sieve.  This 
is  now  ready  for  serving  as  a  simple  clear  soup,  or  for  the  foundation  of  all  kinds  of  clear 
soup.  Put  in  such  vegetables  as  are  desired.  If  these  are  cut  fine  it  is  "Julian  "  soup. 
If  young  cabbage,  quartered  and  boiled,  and  young  carrots  and  turnips  are  put  in  whole 
and  dished  up  with  the  soup,  with  the  addition  of  toasted  crusts,  it  is  the  French  family 
soup,  according  to  the  taste.  The  vegetables  are  better  when  cooked  by  themselves  and 
added  with  their  juices  to  the  soup.  The  seasoning,  too,  is  a  matter  of  taste.  Vermicelli 
or  macaroni  which  has  been  boiled  tender  can  be  added  if  desired. 

There  is  no  more  absurd  notion  in  regard  to  soup-making  than  the  idea  that  all  sorts 
of  scraps  can  be  thrown  into  a  pot  and  made  into  a  good  soup.  A  skillful  cook  can 
create  a  good  soup  from  chicken  or  turkey  bones,  but  for  meat  soup  only  fresh  and  un- 
cooked meat  must  be  used. 

Vegetable  Soups  may  be  almost  infinitely  varied,  by  employing  more  or  less  of  each 
vegetable,  or  omitting  some  altogether,  so  as  to  have  the  flavor  of  one  kind  predominate. 

There  is  hardly  an  edible  vegetable  or  herb  which  may  not  be  introduced. 

The  vegetable  which  predominates  usually  gives  its  name  to  the  soup;  thus  we  have 
tomato  soup,  turnip  soup,  cabbage  soup,  etc.  The  French  cooks  name  some  of  them  after 
the  seasons  or  months  in  which  their  vegetable  ingredients  are  perfection;  as  for  instance, 
printaniere  soup,  julienne  soup  (spring  soup,  July  soup),  etc. 

Puree  of  Vegetable  Soup  is  made  of  any  vegetable  preferred.  The  vegetables  are  cut 
very  small,  and  sauted  along  with  some  lean  ham  or  bacon.  A  spoonful  of  flour  is  then 
added,  and  afterward  the  required  quantity  of  stock,  with  a  bunch  of  parsley  and  one  or 
two  potatoes;  also  some  boiling  milk  if  desired.  When  this  boils  it  is  seasoned  with  salt, 
pepper  and  sugar,  and  then  rubbed  through  a  sieve;  the  ham  and  parsley  being  removed. 
It  now  requires  to  be  re-boiled  and  skimmed.  Serve  hot  with  toasted  bread,  cut  in  dice, 
in  it. 

Vermicelli,  Italian  paste,  macaroni,  sago,  semolina,  rice,  and  tapioca  soups  have  no  vegeta- 
bles, but  consist  simply  of  well-seasoned  clear  stock,  with  the  above  substances  boiled  in  it 
till  softened,  but  not  so  dissolved  as  to  thicken  the  soup.  About  two  ounces  of  either  of 
the  first  four  is  enough  for  a  quart  of  stock;  rather  less  of  the  others  will  be  sufficient, 
because  they  swell.  The  rice  should  be  washed  and  drained  and  put  into  cold  stock,  and 
then  simmer;  all  the  others  should  be  put  into  boiling  stock.  Macaroni  is  better  for  being 


72  HOME    DISSERTATIONS. 

previously  boiled  for  ten  minutes  in  water  and  then   drained.      Instead  of  stock,  brown 
soup  may  be  used  for  these. 

Brown  soup  is  merely  a  clear  beef  stock  colored,  if  required,  by  one  of  the  "brownings." 
It  is  seasoned  with  pepper,  salt  and  cayenne,  and  a  little  mushroom  ketchup  if  desired. 
Toasted  bread  in  small  dice  may  be  put  into  it  before  serving. 

ASPARAGUS   SOUP. 

Cut  off  the  green  portions  of  asparagus,  as  far  as  tender,  sufficient  to  fill  a  quart  meas- 
ure. Boil  them  in  water  with  a  little  salt  until  quite  tender,  then  drain  and  add  them  to 
two  quarts  of  good  beef  broth,  and  serve  very  hot.  Small  squares  of  toasted  bread  may 
be  served  in  the  tureen  with  the  soup  if  desirable. 

BEAN    SOUP. 

The  most  common  of  vegetable  soups  is  bean  soup.  Any  kind  will  do,  although  the 
best  are  the  French  beans.  Soak  a  quart  of  them  over  night  in  lukewarm  water.  Put  them 
over  the  fire  next  morning  with  one  gallon  of  cold  water.  Boil  for  three  or  four  hours. 
Add  celery,  onions  if  desired,  and  one  or  two  thinly  sliced  potatoes.  Simmer  until  the 
vegetables  are  done.  Caraway  or  dill  seed  is  a  good  addition  to  the  seasoning  of  bean  soup. 

BEEF   AND   OKRA   SOUP. 

Cut  from  the  bone  two  pounds  of  soup  beef,  crack  the  bone  to  release  the  marrow,  and 
put  both  meat  and  bone  over  the  fire  in  a  large  saucepan  with  eight  quarts  of  cold  water, 
a  level  tablespoon  of  salt,  a  small  dried  red  pepper  finely  chopped  or  grated,  and  the  fol- 
lowing named  vegetables  :  six  fresh  tomatoes  and  one  medium  sized  onion  peeled  and 
sliced  ;  one  large  green  pepper  finely  chopped,  four  dozen  okras  washed  and  sliced,  the 
stems  being  rejected,  and  one  cup  of  shelled  Lima  beans  ;  in  the  winter  all  these  vegeta- 
bles can  be  bought  in  cans  ;  cover  the  saucepan  closely,  and  gently  simmer  all  these  in- 
gredients together  for  four  hours,  taking  care  that  they  do  not  burn.  While  the  soup  is 
being  cooked  boil  two  large  hard-shell  crabs,  and  remove  the  meat  from  the  shells,  or,  if 
live  crabs  are  not  available,  use  the  canned  crab-meat.  After  the  soup  has  been  boiled 
for  four  hours  remove  the  beef  bones,  leaving  all  the  meat  and  marrow  in  the  soup,  add 
the  prepared  crab-meat,  and  if  the  soup  is  too  thick  to  be  palatable,  a  little  boiling  water; 
see  that  it  is  nicely  seasoned,  and  then  serve  it  hot. 

BOUILLON    SERVED   IN   CUPS.  \ 

Bouillon  is  made  the  same  as  the  clear  stock,  using  a  pint  of  water  to  a  pound  of  meat, 
chicken  or  other  poultry,  and  seasoning  with  salt  and  pepper.  Serve  in  large  cups  with 

handles. 

CONSOMME. 

Eight  pounds  of  a  shin  of  veal,  eight  pounds  of  the  lower  part  of  the  round  of  beer, 
half  a  cup  of  butter,  twelve  quarts  of  water,  half  a  small  carrot,  two  large  onions,  hair  a 
head  of  celery,  thirty  pepper-corns,  six  whole  cloves,  a  small  piece  each  of  mace  and  cm- 


SOUP.  73 

namon,  four  sprigs  of  parsley,  sweet  marjoram,  summer  savory  and  thyme,  four  leaves  of 
sage,  four  bay  leaves,  about  two  ounces  of  ham.  Put  half  of  the  butter  in  the  soup-pot 
and  then  put  in  the  meat,  which  has  been  cut  into  very  small  pieces.  Stir  over  a  hot  fire 
until  the  meat  begins  to  brown  ;  then  add  one  quart  of  the  water,  and  cook  until  there  is 
a  glaze  on  the  bottom  of  the  kettle  (this  will  be  in  about  an  hour).  Add  the  remainder  of 
the  water  and  let  it  come  to  a  boil.  Skim  carefully  and  set  back  where  it  will  simmer  for 
six  hours.  Fry  the  vegetables,  which  have  been  cut  very  small,  in  the  remaining  butter 
for  half  an  hour,  being  careful  not  to  burn  them.  When  done,  turn  into  the  soup-pot,  and 
at  the  same  time  add  the  herbs  and  spice.  Cook  one  hour  longer,  salt  to  taste,  and  strain. 
Set  it  in  a  very  cold  place  till  morning,  when  skim  off  all  the  fat.  Turn  the  soup  into  the, 
pot,  being  careful  not  to  turn  in  the  sediment,  and  set  on  the  fire.  Beat  the  whites  and 
shells  of  two  eggs  with  one  cup  of  cold  water.  Stir  into  the  soup,  and  when  it  comes  to  a 
boil,  set  back  where  it  will  simmer  twenty  minutes.  Strain  through  a  fine  sieve,  put  away 
in  a  cold  place.  This  will  keep  a  week  in  winter,  but  not  more  than  four  days  in  summer. 
It  is  a  particularly  fine-flavored  soup,  and  is  the  foundation  for  any  clear  soup,  the  soup 
taking  the  name  of  the  solid  used  with  it  as  Consomme,  au  Riz,  consomme  with  macaroni,  etc. 

CREOLE   SOUP. 

Garlic  is  characteristic  of  Creole  dishes,  but  onions  will  do.  Use  a  medium  sized  one, 
peeled  and  sliced,  or  a  clove  of  garlic  for  a  quart  of  soup,  and  a  can  of  tomatoes  peeled 
and  sliced.  Put  these  over  the  fire  and  let  them  begin  to  cook  while  you  cut  up  in  slices 
a  small  carrot  and  a  small  turnip.  Make  a  bouquet  of  herbs  by  tying  together  two  table- 
spoons of  parsley  with  the  stems  and  roots  on,  a  stalk  of  celery,  half  a  dozen  cloves,  about 
the  same  number  of  unground  pepper-corns  and  a  bay  leaf.  Add  this  to  the  soup  and 
season  it  with  a  little  salt.  The  reason  for  using  cloves  and  unground  pepper  was  to  se- 
cure their  flavor  and  prevent  the  clouding  of  soup  or  sauce.  When  ground  pepper  is  used, 
select  ceyenne  or  the  white.  Use  the  liquid  from  the  tomatoes  for  the  soup,  this  being 
sufficient. 

After  all  the  ingredients  have  been  placed  in  the  soup,  it  is  to  be  allowed  to  cook  very 
slowly  until  all  the  vegetables  are  tender  enough  to  rub  through  a  flour-sieve  with  a  potato 
masher.  If  not  thin  enough,  put  in  hot  water  or  broth.  Thin  it  to  the  consistency  of 
cream.  If  it  is  not  palatable,  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Put  in  about  two  heaping 
tablespoons  of  boiled  rice  for  a  quart  of  soup, — half  a  cup  before  cooking  will  answer  for 
four  quarts.  If  the  soup  is  too  thin — that  depends  upon  the  condition  of  the  tomatoes — 
it  can  be  thickened  with  a  very  little  white  sauce  made  like  the  white  soup,  but  with  water 
instead  of  milk,  because  the  acid  in  the  tomatoes  will  curdle  the  milk  unless  there  is  added 
for  each  quart  of  soup  a  saltspoon  of  baking  soda. 

CHICKEN    CONSOMME. 

Clean,  draw  and  truss  a  pair  of  old  fowls,  and  roast  them  until  they  are  slightly 
browned,  or  about  half  cooked.  Put  them  into  a  soup-pot  and  cover  with  cold  water. 
Season  with  salt,  pepper,  a  blade  or  two  of  mace,  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  a  sprig  or  two 


74  HOME    DISSERTATIONS. 

of  parsley,  and  a  bay  leaf.  Set  the  pot  on  the  fire  and  boil  slowly  until  the  fowls  are 
well  done  and  the  broth  is  reduced  one-third.  Then  strain  the  broth  through  a  fine  sieve 
and  serve  it  with  toasted  bread.  It  is  a  delicacy  served  without  the  bread  in  cups. 

CHICKEN    SOUP. 

Carefully  pluck  and  singe  a  chicken  weighing  about  three  pounds,  draw  it  without 
breaking  the  intestines,  and  cut  it  in  small  pieces  about  two  inches  square  ;  put  the  chicken 
over  the  fire  in  a  saucepan  with  two  quarts  of  cold  water,  and  let  the  water  gradually  heat 
to  the  boiling  point ;  meantime  peel  and  slice  a  pint  of  tomatoes,  and  enough  carrots  to 
measure  an  equal  quantity ;  shell  enough  Lima  beans  to  fill  a  cup  ;  put  the  vegetables 
with  the  chicken  when  the  water  boils  ;  season  the  soup  with  salt  and  cayenne  pepper ; 
cover  the  saucepan  closely  and  simmer  the  soup  gently  for  three  hours ;  at  the  end  of 
three  hours  mix  two  heaping  tablespoons  of  flour  smoothly  with  half  a  cup  of  water,  and 
add  it  to  the  soup  ;  add  also  a  pint  of  milk  ;  see  that  the  soup  is  palatably  seasoned  ;  con- 
tinue the  boiling  another  hour,  taking  care  that  the  soup  does  not  burn,  and  then  serve 
it  hot. 

CLEREMONT    SOUP. 

Cut  a  dozen  white  or  silver  onions,  and  fry  them  in  butter  until  well  browned.  Drain 
them.  Take  two  quarts  of  rich  veal  or  chicken  broth,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  place 
it  on  the  fire,  and  make  it  very  hot.  Add  the  fried  onions  and  two  tablespoons  of  grated 
Parmesan  cheese.  Serve  with  fried  bread  cut  in  small  pieces. 

CONSOMME    WITH    POACHED    EGGS. 

Put  into  a  small  pan  a  pint  of  water,  a  teaspoon  of  salt,  and  a  tablespoon  of  vinegar. 
When  boiling  hot,  break  in  a  saucer  two  eggs  at  a  time  and  slip  them  into  the  pan.  Sim- 
mer till  firm,  and  with  a  perforated  skimmer  remove  and  lay  them  in  a  pan  of  cold  water. 
Having  poached  the  eggs — as  many  as  required — put  them  into  a  tureen  and  pour  over 
them  some  good  boiling  hot  broth;  chicken  or  veal  is  the  best.  A  minute  or  two  before 
serving  add  a  pinch  or  two  of  coarse  black  pepper. 

CREAM    OF    CELERY. 

A  pint  of  milk,  a  tablespoon  of  flour,  one  of  butter,  a  head  of  celery,  a  large  slice  of 
onion  and  small  piece  of  mace.  Boil  celery  in  a  pint  of  water  from  thirty  to  forty-five 
minutes;  boil  mace,  onion  and  milk  together.  Mix  flour  with  two  tablespoons  of  milk. 
Cook  ten  minutes.  Mash  celery  in  the  water  in  which  it  has  been  cooked,  and  stir  into 
the  boiling  milk.  Add  butter,  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Strain  and 
serve  immediately.  The  flavor  is  improved  by  adding  a  cup  of  whipped  cream  when  the 
soup  is  in  the  tureen. 

CREAM    OF    SORREL. 

Sorrel  is  a  pest  to  many  a  farmer,  and  almost  takes  possession  of  his  freshly  broken 
fields.  However,  sorrel  makes  a  fine  soup,  albeit,  like  the  pumpkin,  it  is  essentially  French. 
The  cultivated  sorrel  can  be  used.  To  two  quarts  of  sorrel  add  a  good  handful  of  spinach 


SOUP.  75 

and  a  few  leaves  of  lettuce.  Put  them  into  a  frying-pan  with  a  large  piece  of  butter  and 
cook  until  thoroughly  done.  Then  put  them  into  a  kettle  with  a  gallon  of  boiling  water. 
Just  before  serving  add  two  beaten  eggs  with  a  little  cream.  Have  squares  of  toasted 
bread  in  the  soup  tureen.  This  soup  is  highly  esteemed  for  invalids. 

"CREAM    OF    SPINACH"   SOUP. 

The  spinach  must  be  very  carefully  washed,  so  as  to  get  rid  of  the  sand.  Then  re- 
move the  leaves  from  the  stalks.  Put  them  into  boiling  water  and  salt.  Use  enough 
water  to  well  cover  the  spinach.  Boil  until  it  is  tender, — three  minutes  in  the  spring  and 
tenor  twelve  when  the  spinach  is  very  tough.  The  moment  the  leaves  are  tender  enough 
to  be  rubbed  away  between  the  fingers  they  are  done,  and  boiling  thereafter  makes  them 
shrink.  Half  a  peck  of  spinach,  if  in  really  good  condition, — the  leaves  green,  fresh, 
and  large, — will  yield  about  two  quarts  of  leaves  ;  if  poor,  sometimes  not  more  than  a 
quart.  A  quart  of  leaves,  when  done,  will  be  reduced  to  about  a  cupful,  which  will  serve 
for  four  quarts  of  soup. 

For  a  quart,  mix  in  a  saucepan  over  the  fire  a  tablespoon  of  butter  and  one  of  flour, 
stirring  the  flour  in  as  the  butter  melts.  This  makes  a  perfectly  smooth  paste.  Then  add 
milk — a  teacup  at  a  time — until  a  quart  is  in  the  pan,  stirring  the  mixture  while  pouring  in 
the  milk,  which  may  be  hot  or  cold.  Hot  milk  is  preferable,  it  saves  time.  If  the 
soup  has  lumps  in  it  the  butter  had  not  been  melted.  When  all  the  milk  has  been  added, 
the  soup  should  be  seasoned  with  a  teaspoon  of  salt,  a  quarter  of  a  saltspoon  of  pepper, 
and  the  same  quantity  of  nutmeg.  In  making  sauces  or  gravies,  if  the  butter  is  melted 
there  will  never  be  any  lumps  in  them.  Soup  could  be  kept  hot  by  setting  the  kettle  in 
another  containing  hot  water.  It  will  thicken  a  little  if  allowed  to  stand.  Should  it  be- 
come too  thick,  a  little  milk  or  whatever  is  used  in  making  the  soup  it  will  thin  it.  Spinach 
soup  can  be  made  of  milk,  or  of  milk  and  water  in  equal  parts,  or  of  meat  broth. 

ENGLISH    PEA    SOUP. 

Put  a  marrow  bone  and  one  pint  of  split  peas  into  the  soup-pot,  cover  these  with  three 
quarts  of  water,  simmer  slowly  for  three  hours.  Season  with  pepper  and  salt  to  taste. 
Strain  the  soup  through  a  hair  sieve,  and  mash  and  press  the  peas  through  and  return 
them  to  the  soup  ;  stir  well  together.  Cover  the  bottom  of  the  tureen  with  cube-shaped 
pieces  of  buttered  toast,  and  pour  the  soup  hot  over  them  and  serve. 

GIBLET    SOUP. 

Giblets  of  any  kind  of  poultry,  consisting  of  the  head,  neck,  pinions,  feet,  liver,  giz- 
zard, and  heart.  For  goose  giblet  soup  two  sets  of  goose  giblets  maybe  used.  The  pin- 
ions and  the  neck-skin  should  be  scalded  and  picked  free  from  feathers,  the  feet  scalded 
and  skinned,  the  beak  removed  and  the  skull  split.  After  this  they  must  be  well  cleaned, 
cut  into  small  pieces,  slightly  sauted  in  butter,  and  then  simmered  till  tender  in  some  good 
beef  stock  or  brown  soup,  with  some  carrot,  turnip,  onions,  parsley,  thyme,  and  a  bay  leaf. 
Season  highly  with  mushroom  ketchup,  salt  and  cayenne,  and  thicken  with  butter  rolled 


76  HOME   DISSERTATIONS. 

in  flour.     When  the  giblets  are  tender,  the  soup  may  be  strained,  then  re-warm  it  and  serve 
with  the  giblets,  and,  if  desired,  some  vegetables  in  it.  « 

TO    MAKE    GUMBO. 

For  a  large  family,  take  two  dozen  green  okras,  cut  into  thin  slices,  put  into  a  pot  with 
three  quarts  of  cold  water,  and  start  it  to  boiling.  Now  take  two  tender  chickens,  cut 
them  up,  and  with  a  rolling-pin  or  mallet,  macerate  the  flesh  and  bones  until  almost  a 
jelly.  Add  this  to  the  pot  of  okra.  Scald  and  peel  a  quart  of  full  ripe  tomatoes,  and 
finely  grate  four  ears  of  tender  green  sweet  corn,  which  add  to  the  mass.  Stir  frequently, 
to  prevent  burning.  Season  with  fresh  butter,  pepper  and  salt ;  and  when  nearly  done, 
add  a  stalk  of  finely  chopped  celery,  with  a  few  sprigs  of  parsley,  and  one  onion.  Con- 
stantly stirring ;  and  when  the  mass  becomes  ropy,  and  emits  a  grateful  aromatic  odor, 
serve  up.  If  you  would  Frenchify  the  dish,  just  before  it  is  taken  up,  add  a  gill  of 
pure  wine. 

LENTEN    SOUP. 

Any  good  domestic  red  wine,  such  as  currant,  cherry  or  raspberry  wine,  may  be  used 
for  this  soup,  the  quantity  of  sugar  being  graduated  by  the  acidity  of  the  wine  ;  the  pro- 
portion of  sugar  here  given  will  serve  for  any  wine  as  acid  as  claret ;  domestic  or  Califor- 
nia claret  makes  a  very  fair  Lenten  soup  at  a  reasonable  cost,  the  New  York  price  being 
thirty-five  cents  for  a  large  bottle  which  will  make  four  quarts  of  soup.  Wash  quarter  of 
a  pound  of  small  sago  in  cold  water,  put  it  over  the  fire  in  three  quarts  of  cold  water,  with 
a  level  teaspoon  of  salt,  as  much  cayenne  as  can  be  lifted  on  the  point  of  a  small  knife- 
blade,  and  a  saltspoon  of  grated  nutmeg ;  stir  the  sago  frequently  enough  to  prevent 
burning,  and  cook  it  slowly  until  the  little  globules  are  entirely  transparent,  adding  more 
water  if  it  is  required  ;  when  the  sago  is  transparent  add  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar,  and 
enough  boiling  water  to  make  three  quarts  of  soup  ;  then  put  in  a  quart  of  claret,  or  any 
good  domestic  red  wine,  and  stir  the  soup  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved  ;  when  the  soup  is 
quite  hot  after  the  addition  of  the  wine,  serve  it ;  or  ice  it,  and  serve  it  cold. 

LOBSTER    SOUP    WITH    MILK. 

Meat  of  a  small  lobster,  chopped  fine  ;  three  crackers  rolled  fine  ;  butter,  size  of  an 
egg  ;  salt  and  pepper  to  taste  and  a  speck  of  cayenne.  Mix  all  in  the  same  pan,  and 
add,  gradually,  a  pint  of  boiling  milk,  stirring  all  the  while.  Boil  up  once  and  serve. 

GREEN  TURTLE  SOUP.   HOW  TO  KILL  A  TURTLE. 

The  day  before  the  soup  is  to  be  made  hang  the  turtle  up  by  the  hind  fins,  head  down- 
wards, and  cut  off  the  head.  Use  a  sharp  knife,  in  order  to  perform  the  operation  quickly 
Let  him  hang  till  the  next  day,  that  he  may  be  well  bled.  Then  separate  the  upper  from 
the  lower  shell,  and  be  careful  in  this  operation  not  to  cut  the  gall  bladder,  which  if  punc- 
tured, would  completely  destroy  the  flesh  over  which  it  ran.  Take  out  the  meat  of  the 
breast  and  cut  it  into  half  a  dozen  pieces.  Remove  the  gall  and  entrails  and  throw  them 
away.  Separate  the  fins  as  near  the  shell  as  possible,  take  out  the  green  fat  and  put  it  in 


SOUP.  TT 

a  dish  by  itself.  Break  the  shell  into  pieces  and  put  them  into  a  soup-pot,  cover  with 
water,  and  boil  sufficiently  long  to  enable  you  to  remove  the  mucilage  or  gelatinous  sub- 
stance adhereing  to  the  shells.  Put  this  also  on  a  separate  dish.  Then  into  the  largest 
stew-pan  you  have  put  the  head,  fins,  liver,  lights,  heart  and  all  the  flesh,  a  pound  of  ham, 
a  dozen  cloves,  two  or  three  bay  leaves,  a  large  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  such  as  savory,  mar- 
joram, basil,  thyme,  a  bunch  of  parsley  and  an  onion  cut  in  slices.  Cover  all  these  with 
the  liquor  in  which  you  boiled  the  shells,  place  the  pan  on  the  fire  and  simmer  till  the 
meat  be  thoroughly  cooked.  Then  strain  off  the  liquor  through  a  fine  sieve,  and  return  it 
to  the  stew-pan  and  set  aside.  Cut  the  meat  into  suitable  morsels.  Put  the  herbs,  onions, 
etc.,  into  a  separate  saucepan  with  a  quarter-pound  of  butter,  two  or  three  lumps  of  sugar 
and  a  bottle  of  Madeira.  Let  this  simmer  very  slowly.  While  this  is  doing,  melt  half 
a  pound  of  butter  in  another  saucepan  and  thicken  with  flour,  then  add  a  pint  of  the 
liquor  from  the  shells.  Let  this  boil  gently  for  a  minute  or  two.  When  both  of  these  sauce- 
pans are  ready,  strain  the  contents  of  the  first,  containing  the  herbs  and  wine,  through  a 
sieve,  and  this  done,  add  both  to  the  large  stew-pan,  containing  the  broth,  then  add  the 
meat,  the  green  fat  and  mucilage.  Add  the  yoke  of  a  dozen  hard  boiled  eggs,  the  juice 
of  two  or  three  lemons  and  a  dessert  spoon  of  cayenne.  Make  all  very  hot  and  serve. 
If  you  have  more  than  you  require,  pour  the  balance  into  stoneware  crocks,  and  when  cold 
cover  and  put  in  a  cool  place.  It  will  keep  a  good  while,  and  improve  in  flavor  as  the  in- 
gredients have  a  chance  to  more  thoroughly  amalgamate  and  blend.  When  wanted  for 
use,  take  especial  care  to  make  very  hot,  but  without  allowing  it  to  boil,  as  that  would  spoil 
its  true  flavor.  In  the  re-v:arming  more  wine  may  be  added  if  desired.  This  soup  is  de- 
licious without  the  wine.  The  lemons  should  have  a  very  thin  rind  ;  should  be  put  into 
the  tureen  and  the  soup  poured  over  it.  Cooking  the  lemon  in  this  or  any  other  soup 
often  gives  it  a  bitter  taste. 

MUTTON  BROTH. 

Take  the  fat  from  the  liquor  in  which  the  leg  of  mutton  has  boiled.  Add  pepper,  and 
a  little  salt,  bearing  in  mind  that  mutton  will  not  bear  as  much  salt  as  beef  or  veal ;  half  a 
cup  of  raw  rice,  and  half  an  onion.  Boil  all  together  half  an  hour.  This  is  a  delicious 
broth,  and  very  easily  digested. 

MUTTON    SOUP. 

An  excellent  mutton  soup  :  Take  a  leg  of  mutton,  trim  off  all  the  fat  you  can  get  at ; 
put  it,  whole,  in  a  kettle,  cover  it  well  with  cold  water,  and  set  over  the  fire.  When  it 
boils,  add  salt  enough  to  taste  well ;  half  a  cup  of  pearl  barley  ;  let  it  boil  four  hours,  keep- 
ing it  covered  with  water  all  the  time.  About  an  hour  before  dinner-time,  add  two  medium- 
sized  onions,  a  sprig  of  sage,  about  eight  or  ten  leaves.  Some  add  celery,  but  it  does  not 
improve  it  for  us.  If  you  dislike  the  flavor  the  onions  and  sage  give  the  meat,  remove  tne 
meat  before  putting  them  in.  The  cold  meat,  if  made  into  a  salad,  the  same  as  chicxeu 
salarf.  is  very  good,  the  only  soup-meat  there  is  any  taste  left  in  that  I  know  of. 


*S  HOME    DISSERTATIONS. 

MOCK     TURTLE     SOUP. 

S.   R.   AUSTIN,  CHIEF  COOK. 

The  Stock. — Make  from  bones  of  any  description,  beef  preferable.  Eight  gallons 
water,  ten  pounds  meat  bones,  six  carrots,  onions  and  turnips,  four  blades  of  mace, 
one  ounce  cloves,  one  ounce  of  allspice,  four  laurel  leaves,  one-fourth  ounce  whole  pep- 
pers, allspice  whole,  about  two  pounds  block  bones. 

To  color  stock  and  assist  to  flavor,  take  four  pounds  small  scraps  of  meat  or  bones, 
eight  leaves  of  sage  and  summer  savory,  with  one  pound  butter.  Put  this  in  the  oven 
and  let  brown  slowly,  with  five  carrots,  five  turnips,  five  onions,  cut  fine;  when  brown, 
put  in  the  same  two  pounds  of  flour,  stir  up,  and  let  all  brown  together;  after  brown, 
scrape  it  into  the  stock  that  is  boiling  on  the  fire,  with  the  addition  of  a  large  spoon  of 
salt  and  a  teaspoon  of  pepper,  and  carimel  enough  to  color  a  nice  brown.  Let  all  boil 
from  ten  to  fifteen  hours  on  a  slow  fire,  until  morning,  then  strain  off ;  use  a  very  fine 
sieve  ;  let  cool ;  skim  off  all  grease,  then  put  on  the  fire  and  let  boil  slow  ;  season  with 
pepper  and  salt  to  taste,  and  thicken  to  the  consistency  of  heavy  cream. 

The  Fillings. — Take  one  calf's  head  and  feet ;  skin  it,  wash  clean,  and  boil  the  skin. 
Use  the  bones  of  the  head  in  the  above  stock.  Cook  soft  the  day  before  wanting ; 
when  wanted,  cut  up  in  dice-sized  pieces  and  put  in  the  above  stock  one  hour  before  the 
soup  is  used. 

Take  two  pounds  lean  veal,  cut  small  and  fry  brown  ;  then  put  it  in  the  soup. 

The  Balls. — Take  two  dozen  eggs,  boil  hard.  Separate  the  whites  from  the  yoik  ; 
mash  the  yolk  up,  and  all  the  yolk  of  three  raw  eggs  with  flour  to  make  a  stiff  paste ; 
take  three-fourths  of  this  and  make  balls  about  the  size  of  marbles  ;  the  other  one-fourth 
mix  with  a  pound  of  chopped  veal,  fine,  and  make  into  large-sized  balls.  Boil  all  in  water 
about  fifteen  minutes;  strain  off,  and  put  the  balls  into  the  soup.  Cut  the  whites  in  thin 
pieces  and  put  them  in  also.  The  balls  can  be  made  the  day  before  cooked,  and  put  in 
cold  water  until  wanted  to  use. 

Peel  three  lemons,  slice  in  thin  slices,  cut  the  skin  up  in  small  shreds,  throw  in  the 
soup  fifteen  minutes  before  ready  to  use,  and  one  pint  of  port  wine.  Be  sure  and  have 
the  soup  thick  enough,  and  a  nice  brown  color. 

MULLIGATAWNY    SOUP. 

Cut  the  meat  off  three  pounds  of  veal  into  small  pieces,  and  make  a  strong  gelatinous 
stock  of  the  trimmings,  gristle  and  bones,  along  with  a  knuckle  of  veal  broken  in  pieces, 
and  simmered  in  about  three  quarts  of  water.  Fry  (saute)  the  pieces  of  meat  in  butter, 
in  a  deep  stew-pan,  along  with  some  sliced  onions  and  a  slice  of  lean  ham.  When  these 
are  slightly  browned,  mix  in  two  tablespoons  of  flour,  and  pour  over  them  the  stock  pre- 
viously strained.  Simmer  this  gently  for  an  hour,  skimming  off  the  fat  as  it  rises.  Then 
add  two  or  three  dessertspoons  of  curry  powder,  with  salt  and  cayenne,  and  continue  the 
simmering  till  the  veal  is  thoroughly  cooked.  Before  serving,  remove  the  ham.  Carrot 
and  turnip  may  be  used  in  this  soup,  being  sliced  and  sauted  along  with  the  meat  aiiL 


SOUP.  79 

onion;  apples  also  are  sometimes  employed  in  the  same  way.  The  remains  of  cooked 
fowls  or  rabbits,  cut  into  small  pieces,  may  be  warmed  up  in  this  soup  and  served  along 
with  the  veal.  Chicken  or  turkey  bones,  scraps  from  roast  veal,  lamb  or  mutton  may  be 
used  instead  of  the  veal. 

OX-TAIL    SOUP. 

Ox-tail  soup  may  be  made  of  two  or  three  ox-tails  divided  into  joints,  slightly  sauted 
in  butter,  and  then  simmered  in  about  three  quarts  of  good  beef  stock,  or  brown  soup, 
till  the  meat  becomes  quite  tender  and  loose  upon  the  bones.  If  water  is  used  instead  of 
stock,  another  tail  may  be  required,  and  some  of  the  smaller  pieces  left  unsauted,  to  yield 
their  juice.  Season  it  with  whole  black  pepper  and  salt  at  the  beginning  of  the  prepara- 
tion. Vegetables,  namely:  carrot,  turnip,  onions  or  leeks,  and  celery  sliced,  and  parsley 
and  thyme,  may  be  boiled  in  it,  especially  if  it  is  made  without  stock,  the  onions  being 
sauted  with  the  meat,  and  it  may  be  thickened  with  browned  flour. 

PALESTINE    SOUP. 

Wash  and  peel  two  dozen  Jerusalem  artichokes.  Cover  them  with  cold  water  as  fast 
as  peeled.  Put  them  in  a  saucepan  and  add  a  sprig  of  leek,  a  sprig  of  parsley  and  one  of 
celery  ;  salt  and  pepper.  Add  two  quarts  of  stock  or  hot  water,  and  simmer  an  hour  and 
a  half.  Strain  ;  remove  all  but  the  artichokes  and  press  them  through  a  sieve,  return  to 
the  liquid  and  put  back  on  the  range.  When  quite  hot,  beat  into  it  a  pint  of  boiled  cream, 
add  a  little  nutmeg,  taste  for  seasoning,  and  serve  with  croutons. 

PUREE    OF    VEGETABLE    SOUP. 

Peel  some  carrots,  turnips  and  onions,  cut  them  into  very  small  pieces  and  fry  them 
slightly  with  some  lean  ham  or  bacon  ;  a  spoon  of  flour  mixed  smoothly  with  water  is  then 
added,  together  with  two  quarts  of  stock  or  broth,  also  a  bunch  of  parsley  and  one  or  two 
potatoes  cut  into  pieces,  and  a  gill  of  milk.  When  this  boils  for  twenty  minutes,  season 
with  salt  and  pepper  and  a  teaspoon  of  sugar;  after  which  remove  and  strain  and  rub 
through  a  fine  sieve,  the  parsley  and  ham  being  removed.  Replace  it  upon  the  fire,  bring 
it  to  the  boil,  skim  it,  and  serve  very  hot,  with  the  toasted  bread  cut  into  small  pieces  in  it. 

POTAGE    A    LA    KEINE. 

Boil  a  large  fowl  in  three  quarts  of  water  until  tender  ;  the  water  should  never  more 
than  bubble.  Skim  off  the  fat,  and  add  a  teacup  of  rice,  and,  also,  a  slice  of  carrot,  one 
of  turnip,  a  small  piece  of  celery  and  an  onion,  which  have  been  cooked  slowly  for  fifteen 
minutes  in  two  large  tablespoons  of  butter.  Skim  this  butter  carefully  from  the  vege- 
tables, and  into  the  pan  in  which  it  is,  stir  a  tablespoon  of  flour.  Cook  until  smooth,  but 
not  brown.  Add  this,  as  well  as  a  small  piece  of  cinnamon  and  of  mace,  and  four  whole 
cloves.  Cook  all  together  slowly  for  two  hours.  Chop  and  pound  the  breast  of  the  fowl 
very  fine.  Rub  the  soup  through  a  fine  sieve  ;  add  the  pounded  breast  and  again  rub  the 
whole  through  the  sieve.  Put  back  on  the  fire  and  add  one  and  a  half  tablespoons  of  salt, 


So  HOME    DISSERTATIONS. 

a  fourth  of  a  teaspoon  of  pepper  and  a  pint  of  cream,  which  has  just  come  to  a  boil. 
Boil  up  once  and  serve.     This  is  a  delicious  soup. 

PUMPKIN    OR    SQUASH    SOUP. 

Pumpkin  or  squash  soup  is  almost  a  national  dish  in  France.  Indeed,  the  first  men- 
tioned vegetable  is  scarcely  employed  there  for  any  other  purpose  than  for  soup-making. 
To  two  quarts  of  thoroughly  cooked  pumpkin  or  squash  allow  one  quart  of  milk,  plenty  of 
butter,  pepper  and  salt.  Serve  with  toasted  bread. 

SCOTCH    BROTH. 

Two  pounds  of  the  scraggy  part  of  a  neck  of  mutton.  Cut  the  meat  from  thus  bones, 
and  cut  off  all  the  fat.  Then  cut  the  meat  into  small  pieces  and  put  into  the  soup-pot 
with  one  large  slice  of  turnip,  two  of  carrot,  one  onion  and  a  stalk  of  celery,  all  cut  fine, 
half  a  cup  of  barley  and  three  pints  of  cold  water.  Simmer  gently  two  hours.  On  to  the 
bones  put  one  pint  of  water  ;  simmer  two  hours,  and  strain  upon  the  soup.  Cook  a  table- 
spoon of  flour  and  one  of  butter  together  until  perfectly  smooth ;  stir  into  soup,  and  add  a 
teaspoon  of  chopped  parsley.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper. 

SPRING    SOUP. 

Cut  your  spring  vegetables  into  neat  symmetrical  shreds  ;  boil  them  separately  a  f^v 
minutes  and  add  them  to  consomme. 

STOCK,  OR    POT-AU-FEU. 

Pieces  of  fresh  beef,  bones,  briskets,  skin,  tops,  trimmings,  bits  of  cooked  beef,  mutton, 
lamb,  veal,  fowl,  unsalted, — anything  that  will  make  a  jelly;  also,  slices  of  carrots,  beets, 
onions,  parsley;  avoid  spices  and  herbs,  and  use  salt  sparingly.  Fill  a  pot  half  full ;  fill 
up  with  cold  water.  Don't  let  it  boil  for  the  first  half  hour  on  any  account;  after  that,  let 
it  simmer  gently,  four,  five,  or  seven  hours;  skim  well,  and  stew  till  it  has  reached  a  rich 
consistency;  then  take  it  off  the  fire,  strain  through  a  coarse  napkin,  and  set  away  to  cool. 
When  cold,  take  off  all  the  fat,  and  it  should  pour  clear  from  sediment.  If  desired  to  be 
very  rich,  add  jelly  from  a  cow  heel,  or  a  lump  of  butter  rolled  in  flour. 

Never  permit  the  stock-pot  to  get  empty.  So  soon  as  one  is  placed  in  the  larder,  com- 
mence another.  If  it  accumulates,  boil  down  to  a  glaze. 

MRS.    E.    B.    BURROUGHS'    TOMATO    SOUP. 

Boil  for  a  few  minutes  three  cups  of  tomatoes,  with  a  small  teaspoon  of  saleratus.  Heat 
one  quart  of  milk  to  near  boiling,  and  into  this  pour  the  prepared  tomatoes.  Season  with 
plenty  of  fresh  butter,  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  and  serve  with  small  bits  of  toasted  bread 
cut  the  shape  of  dice.  An  iron  spoon  should  not  be  used  in  stirring  this  soup  during  its 
preparation. 

TURKEY    SOUP    WITH    OYSTERS. 

Use  the  carcass  of  a  cold  turkey,  together  with  all  the  cold  stuffing  and  gravy  on  hand; 


The  INGLENOOK  Wines  are  offered  to  the  public  in  GLASS  only,  being  bottled  at  the  vineyard  in  California:  pro- 
tected by  its  trade  mark  and  the  PURE  WINE  STAMP  of  the  State  of  California,  which  guarantees  the  absolute  purity  of 
the  Wines.  None  genuine  unless  bearing  Trade  Mark  on  Seal  or  Cork. 


injienooi  Tame  wines 


OLD 

The  Standard  of  Excellence  and  Purity 


CHT  T^  ni\TT  V  TT\T 
GULiJJ  UlNljI   UN 


GROWN  &  BOTTLED 


CELEBRATED 


RUTHERFORD,  NAPA  COUNTY,  CALIFORNIA 


Medals  and  Diploma 
L'Bxposition  Universal, 
Paris,  1889. 


CLARETS.    ZINFANDEL.     BURGUNDY.    SAUTERNE 

GUTEDEL.     HOCK.    BURGER.     RIESLING 

PRIVATE  STOCK  BRANDY 


ForJSale  by  GOLDBERG,  BOWEN  &  L,EBENBAUM,  and  all  leading 
Wine  Merchants  and  Grocers  in  every 

City  in  the  Union 
FOR  PRICES  APPLY  TO 

F,  A,  HABER,  OFFICE  AND  DEPOT  INGLENOOK  VINEYARD 

122    SANSOME  ST.,   SAN    RRANCISCO 


H.J.  HEINZ  CO. 


CELEBRATED 


THE  WORLDS 


These  goods  are  absolutely  pure,  and  have  received  gold  medals 
and  highest  awards  wherever  exhibited. 

The  H.  J.  HEINZ  goods  are  made  only  from  the  choicest  materials. 
prepared  by  the  most  skillful  workmen  under  special  processes  known 
only  to  the  H.  J.  HEINZ  CO.,  whereby  the  highest  perfection  is 
attained.  The  style  of  package  is  as  attractive  to  the  eye  as  the  con- 
tents are  pleasing  to  the  taste. 

COXSUMER.  :  —  Your  grocer  is  authorized  to  refund  pur- 
chasers' money  on  all  goods  bearing  HEINZ  KEYSTONE  TRADE 
MARK,  if  they  do  not  prove  entirely  satisfactory  to  YOU. 


&  5TRAUT 


Pacific  Coast  Agents 


SOUP.  Si 

put  them  over  the  fire  with  two  quarts  of  water,  and  boil  them  gently  until  the  meat  falls 
from  the  bones;  carefully  remove  all  bits  of  bone  from  the  soup  after  it  has  boiled  until 
they  separate  readily  from  the  meat;  strain  the  liquor  from  the  oysters  and  add  it  to  the 
soup;  wash  and  cut  in  small  pieces  one  root  of  celery  with  the  stalks  and  white  leaves, 
saving  the  green  leaves  for  drying,  and  put  the  celery  into  the  soup;  after  the  celery  is 
tender  see  that  the  soup  is  not  too  thick,  and  season  it  palatably  with  salt  and  pepper; 
carefully  remove  all  bits  of  shell  from  the  oysters,  put  them  into  the  soup,  let  it  boil  once 
after  adding  the  oysters,  and  then  serve  it  hot. 

If  it  is  desirable  to  increase  the  quantity  of  soup  do  it  by  using  more  water  and  season- 
ing, and  thicken  it  with  bread  boiled  in  it  to  a  pulp,  or  with  flour  and  butter  mixed  to  a 
smooth  paste  and  boiled  in  it. 

VEAL    SOUP. 

Veal  soup  can  be  prepared  in  a  similar  manner  to  beef  soup.  It  is  unnecessary,  how- 
ever, to  boil  the  meat  the  day  before  it  is  wanted.  Three  hours  is  sufficient  length  of 
time  for  it  to  be  over  the  fire.  The  same  proportions  of  meat  and  water  are  used  as  for 
the  beef.  Be  careful  to  skim  it  close,  and  if  not  clear  to  strain  it  through  a  colander.  If 
macaroni  i?  used,  put  a  little  butter  in  with  it  before  adding  to  the  soup. 

VEAL    CREAM    SOUP. 

Boil  the  remnants  of  a  roast  of  veal  until  the  meat  falls  from  the  bones.  Strain  and 
cool.  The  next  day  put  on  to  boil,  with  a  slice  of  onion  and  one-third  of  a  cup  of  raw 
rice.  Let  it  simmer  slowly  for  an  hour.  Add  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Just  before 
serving  add  one  cup  of  rich  milk,  or  cream  if  you  have  it,  heated  first  in  a  separate  dish. 
Serve  with  grated  Parmesan  cheese. 

WINTER    PEA    SOUP. 

Wash  two  or  three  pounds  of  split  peas,  rejecting  those  which  float,  and  put  them  into 
a  saucepan  with  four  quarts  of  the  liquor  in  which  any  kind  of  meat  has  been  boiled,  or 
even  cold  soft  water  (a  very  little  carbonate  of  soda  will  soften  hard  water),  a  small  bit  of 
butter  or  drippings,  and  any  odd  scraps  of  meat  and  bones  well  broken.  Add  some  tur- 
nip, carrot  and  onion  sliced,  a  bunch  of  thyme  and  two  or  three  heads  of  celery  or  a  little 
celery  seed.  Boil  these  slowly  till  the  peas  dissolve,  stirring  them  frequently  to  prevent 
burning  on  the  bottom  of  the  saucepan.  Then  rub  the  soup  through  a  sieve,  season  with 
pepper  and  salt,  boil  again  for  a  few  minutes,  and  then  pour  into  the  tureen,  in  which  you 
have  previously  placed  some  toasted  bread  cut  into  dice.  Beef  or  veal,  and  bacon  may 
be  boiled  in  it  to  be  eaten,  and  then  it  may  be  made  with  water  only.  It  is  improved  by 
a  day's  keeping,  the  vegetables  not  being  in  that  case  added  till  it  is  re-boiled  for  use,  the 
longer  the  peas  are  boiled,  the  smoother  and  mellower  the  soup. 

FRIED   BREAD    FOR   SOUP. 

Cut  dry  bread  into  dice,  and  fry  in  boiling  fat  until  brown.  It  will  take  about  half  a 
minute.  The  fat  must  be  smoking  in  the  centre  when  the  bread  is  put  into  it. 


FISH. 

WITH  general  directions  for  Baking,  Boiling,  Broiling,  Frying,  and  Stewing,  one 
cannot  be  at  a  loss  as  to  how  to  prepare  any  kind  of  fish.     Once  having  mastered 
the  five  primary  methods,  and  learned  also  how  to  make  sauces,  the  variety 
of  dishes  within  the  cook's  power  is  great. 

Fish  to  be  prime  must  be  thick  and  firm,  with  bright  scales  and  stiff  fins;  the  gills  a 
very  lively  red,  the  eye  full  and  prominent.  In  the  summer  they  should  be  cleaned  at 
once  and  kept  on  ice  till  you  are  ready  to  cook  them;  do  not  attempt  to  keep  fresh  fish 
till  next  day.  Mackerel  cannot  be  cooked  too  soon,  as  they  spoil  more  readily  than  any 
other  fish. 

BAKED    FISH. 

A  general  rule,  that  will  cover  all  kinds  of  baked  fish,  is  herewith  given:  A  fish  weigh- 
ing about  five  pounds;  three  large,  or  five  small  crackers,  or  an  equivalent  in  dry  bread- 
crumbs, quarter  of  a  pound  of  salt  pork,  two  tablespoons  of  salt,  quarter  of  a  teaspoon  of 
pepper,  half  a  tablespoon  of  chopped  parsley,  two  tablespoons  of  flour. 

If  the  fish  has  not  already  been  scraped  free  of  scales,  scrape  and  wash  clean;  then  rub 
into  it  one  tablespoon  of  salt.  Roll  the  crackers  or  bread-crumbs  very  fine,  and  add  to 
them  the  parsley,  one  tablespoon  of  chopped  pork,  half  the  pepper,  half  a  tablespoon  of  salt, 
and  cold  water  to  moisten  well.  Put  this  into  the  body  of  the  fish,  and  fasten  together 
with  a  skewer.  Butter  a  tin  sheet  and  put  it  into  a  baking  pan.  Cut  gashes  across  the 
fish,  about  half  an  inch '  deep  and  two  inches  long.  Cut  the  remainder  of  the  pork  into 
strips,  and  put  these  into  the  gashes.  Now  put  the  fish  into  the  baking  pan,  and  dredge 
well  with  flour,  salt  and  pepper.  Cover  the  bottom  of  the  pan  with  hot  water,  and  put 
into  a  rather  hot  oven.  Bake  one  hour,  basting  often  with  the  gravy  in  the  pan,  and 
dredging  each  time  with  flour,  salt  and  pepper.  The  water  in  the  pan  must  often  be 
renewed,  as  the  bottom  is  simply  to  be  covered  with  it  each  time.  The  fish  should  be 
basted  every  fifteen  minutes.  When  it  is  cooked,  lift  from  the  pan  on  to  the  tin  sheet, 
and  slide  it  carefully  into  the  centre  of  the  dish  on  which  it  is  to  be  served.  Pour  around 
it  Hollandaise  sauce,  tomato  sauce,  or  any  kind  you  like.  Garnish  with  parsley. 

BOILED    FISH,  SAUCE    HOLLANDAISE. 

Any  kind  of  fish  can  be  used,  only  it  should  not  be  split.  Fish-men  are  possessed 
with  the  insane  idea  that  they  must  give  it  a  slash  down  the  middle,  which,  in  nine  cases 
out  of  ten,  makes  trouble  for  the  housekeeper,  because,  if  the  fish  is  to  be  stuffed  and 
baked,  the  slash  has  to  be  sewed  up  again;  if  to  be  boiled,  it  is  almost  impossible  to  keep 
the  fish  in  shape,  as  it  breaks  so  easily;  and  if  to  be  fried,  it  spoils  the  shape  of  the  slices. 
It  is  just  as  easy  to  dress  a  fish  by  cutting  it  at  the  gills.  If  fish-men  would  concentrate 
82 


FISH.  83 

their  attention  on  the  fins  and  remove  them  it  would  be  better.  To  boil  a  fish,  use  cold 
water  for  a  large  one  and  boiling  water  for  a  small  one, — salt  being  added.  A  thin  fish  is 
the  best  for  boiling.  If  you  put  a  large  fish  into  boiling  water  the  outside  will  be  done 
before  the  inside,  whereas  if  you  put  it  into  cold  water,  and  heat  it  gradually,  you  are  sure 
to  have  it  thoroughly  cooked.  A  small  fish  will  probably  be  cooked  by  the  time  it  is  well 
heated  through.  There  were  many  other  ways  of  preparing  fish, — ways  that  belonged  to 
that  high  art,  cooking,  which  is  to  come  by  and  by.  One  is  to  boil  a  fish  with  a 
strong  stock  of  bouillon  made  of  cheap  wine  (claret),  which  is  sometimes  imitated  by  a 
combination  of  vinegar  and  water.  A  bouquet  of  herbs  should  also  be  used.  Twist  the  fishf 
into  a  letter  "S"  by  using  a  string^  and  it  is  better,  unless  one  had  a  fish-kettle,  to  tie  a  cloth 
around  it  so  that  it  can  be  easily  lifted  out  of  the  water. 

For  the  Hollandaise  sauce  use  the  white  sauce  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper.  After 
heating  it  over  a  fire,  the  yolk  of  three  eggs,  for  a  pint,  a  tablespoon  of  vinegar  or  lemon 
juice,  and  three  tablespoons  of  salad  oil  added.  A  saltspoon  of  mustard,  dry  or  mixed, 
can  be  put  in,  but  this  depends  entirely  on  one's  taste.  Fish  can  be  served  with  the 
skin  on  or  off.  The  latest  craze  of  the  Ichthyophagous  Club  of  New  York  is  to  serve  a 
fish  with  both  the  skin  and  scales  on.  This  announcement  may  be  received  with  surprise, 
but  the  scales  and  skin  do  come  off  together  very  easily. 

The  white  sauce  can  be  used  with  macaroni,  and  a  heaping  tablespoon  of  Parmesan 
cheese  added.  When  hot  the  Italians  use  only  enough  sauce  to  moisten  the  macaroni; 
and  they  sometimes  use  two  or  three  different  kinds  of  sauce  on  the  same  dish.  The 
cream  sauce  is  made  like  the  white  sauce,  except  that  milk  is  used  instead  of  water.  The 
macaroni  should  be  dusted  with  cracker  dust,  and  browned  very  quickly  in  the  oven. 

BOILED    FRESH    CODFISH. 

Lay  the  fish  in  cold  water,  slightly  salted,  for  half  an  hour  before  cooking.  Wipe  it 
free  from  salt  water,  wrap  it  in  a  clean  cloth  kept  for  such  purposes.  The  cloth  should  be 
dredged  with  flour,  to  prevent  sticking.  Sew  up  the  sides  in  such  a  manner  as  to  protect 
the  fish  entirely,  yet  have  but  one  thickness  of  the  cloth  over  any  part.  The  cloth  should 
be  fitted  neatly  to  the  shape  of  the  piece  to  be  cooked.  Put  into  the  fish-kettle,  pour  on 
plenty  of  hot  water,  and  boil  briskly — fifteen  minutes  for  each  pound.  Prepare  a  sauce 
thus:  To  one  gill  boiling  water  add  as  much  milk,  and  when  it  is  scalding  hot,  stir  in — 
leaving  the  saucepan  on  the  fire — two  tablespoons  of  butter  rolled  thickly  in  flour;  as  this 
thickens,  two  beaten  eggs.  Season  with  salt  and  chopped  parsley,  and  when  after  one 
good  boil,  you  withdraw  it  from  the  fire.  Put  the  fish  into  a  hot  dish  and  pour  over  it 
white,  or  oyster  sauce.  Some  serve  in  a  butter-boat,  but  I  fancy  that  the  boiling  sauce 
applied  to  the  steaming  fish  imparts  a  richness  it  cannot  gain  later.  Garnish  with  sprigs 
of  parsley  and  circles  of  hard-boiled  eggs  laid  around  the  dish. 

BOILED    SALT    CODFISH. 

Put  the  fish  to  soak  over  night  in  lukewarm  water — as  early  as  eight  o'clock  in  the 
evening.  Change  this  for  more  warm  water  at  bed-time  and  cover  closely.  Change  again 


84  HOME    DISSERTATIONS^ 

in  the  morning  and  wash  off  the  salt.  Two  hours  before  dinner  plunge  into  very  cold 
water.  This  makes  it  firm.  Finally,  set  over  the  fire  with  enough  lukewarm  water  to 
cover  it,  and  boil  for  half  an  hour.  Drain  well ;  lay  it  on  a  hot  dish,  and  pour  over  it 
egg  sauce  prepared  as  in  the  foregoing  recipe,  only  substituting  the  yolks  of  two  .hard- 
boiled  eggs,  rubbed  to  a  paste  with  butter,  for  the  beaten  raw  eggs. 

This  is  a  useful  recipe  when  fresh  cod  cannot  be  obtained.  Salt  mackerel,  prepared  in 
the  same  way,  will  repay  the  care  and  time  required.  Should  the  cold  fish  left  over  be 
used  for  fish-balls— as  it  should  be — it  will  be  found  that  the  sauce  which  has  soaked  into- 
it  while  hot  has  greatly  improved  it. 

CODFISH    BALLS. 

One  pint  pared  potatoes,  chopped  small,  one-half  pint  raw  salt  fish,  torn  in  small  pieces 
and  put  in  cold  water.  Put  the  potatoes  in  a  kettle,  and  the  fish  on  top,  covered  with 
boiling  water;  cook  until  the  potatoes  are  soft.  Drain  off  the  water,  mash  the  fish  and  po- 
tatoes together  in  the  kettle.  Add  pepper,  salt  if  needed,  also  one  egg  well  beaten;  one 
teaspoon  butter.  Drop  tablespoonful  into  frying-basket  and  plunge  into  hot  fat.  Don't 

turn  them.  N.  S.  P. 

BOSTON   FISH-BALLS. 

Half  a  pound  of  codfish,  three  ounces  suet  shred  fine,  a  small  lump  of  butter,  a  teacup 
of  bread-crumbs,  pepper,  salt  and  nutmeg,  and  two  teaspoons  of  anchovy  sauce.  Pound 
all  together  in  a  mortar,  mix  with  an  egg,  divide  into  small  cakes,  and  fry  them  a  light 

brown. 

FISH    ON    TOAST. 

Take  cold  boiled  fish  of  any  kind,  pick  it  into  flakes  and  heat  in  enough  milk  to 
moisten  it;  add  a  bit  of  butter,  and  season  with  pepper  and  salt.  When  it  is  hot,  pour 
it  on  slices  of  buttered  toast,  and  garnish  with  hard-boiled  eggs,  cut  in  slices. 

SCALLOPED    COD. 

Butter  an  earthenware  pudding  dish,  and  place  in  it  neat  flakes  of  the  cold  fish  with 
any  of  the  gelatine  which  is  left;  line  the  bottom  of  the  dish,  and  then  pour  over  it  any  of 
the  sauce  or  melted  butter  that  you  may  have.  Sprinkle  with  salt,  a  very  little  red  pep- 
per, and  a  pinch  of  mace;  place  alternate  layers  of  fish  and  sauce  until  the  dish  is  full. 
Cover  the  top  with  fine  bread-crumbs,  put  bits  of  butter  over  it,  and  bake  twenty  minutes. 

OYSTER    SAUCE    FOR    CODFISH. 

One  quart  of  oysters  (when  buying  them  ask  for  a  little  extra  liquor),  put  over  the  fire, 
rub  up  pieces  of  butter  size  of  small  egg  with  two  even  tablespoons  flour,  stir  this  in  the 
oysters  till  dissolved,  pepper  and  salt  to  taste,  and  on  no  account  let  it  boil  but  just  one 
instant — the  oysters  must  not  be  hard.  This  is  enough  to  serve  with  cod  of  eight  poundsr 
for  twelve  persons,  as  first  course  before  meat. 

CODS'   TONGUES    WITH    EGG   SAUCE. 
Wash  two  pounds  of  salt  cods'  tongues  in  cold  water,  pour  lukewarm  water  over  them, 


FISH.  85 

and  let  them  remain  where  the  water  will  retain  its  heat  for  two  hours  or  longer;  after  the 
tongues  have  been  soaked  put  them  over  the  fire  in  enough  cold  water  to  cover  them,  add 
a  cup  of  milk  and  a  small  red  pepper  pod,  or  a  palatable  seasoning  of  cayenne,  and  cook 
them  slowly  for  about  half  an  hour,  or  until  they  are  tender;  meantime  boil  three  eggs 
hard,  remove  the  shells  and  chop  the  eggs;  just  before  the  tongues  are  done  put  in  a 
saucepan  over  the  fire  a  heaping  tablespoon  each  of  butter  and  flour,  and  stir  them  to- 
gether until  they  begin  to  bubble;  then  gradually  stir  in  enough  of  the  milk  and  water  in 
which  the  tongues  were  boiled  to  make  the  sauce  sufficiently  salt,  and  more  milk  to  bring 
it  to  the  consistency  of  thick  cream,  put  the  tongues  into  the  sauce,  add  the  chopped 
eggs,  and  then  serve  them  hot. 

FISH    CHOWDER. 

Peel  two  quarts  of  raw  tatoes  and  slice  them  rather  thin;  peel  and  slice  two  quarts 
of  onions;  skin  and  clean  four  large  porgies,  remove  the  heads  and  cut  each  fish  in  slices 
about  three  inches  thick;  soak  four  sea  biscuit  for  five  minutes  in  cold  water;  cut  one 
pound  of  fat  salt  pork  in  thin  slices;  have  ready  for  seasoning  black  and  red  pepper,  pow- 
dered cloves  and  a  very  small  bunch  of  thyme;  the  thyme  is  to  be  taken  out  of  the  chow- 
der before  it  is  served.  First  fry  one-third  of  the  pork  with  one-third  of  the  onions;  then 
take  up  the  fried  pork  and  onions,  and  put  them  aside  to  use  presently;  wash  the  kettle 
in  which  the  pork  and  onions  were  fried,  wipe  it  dry  and  put  in  the  bottom  a  layer  of  raw 
salt  pork  cut  in  thin  slices;  on  the  pork  lay  some  of  the  fish,  and  season  it  with  red  and 
black  pepper,  salt  and  a  little  ground  cloves;  on  the  fish  pface  a  layer  of  potatoes  an  inch 
thick,  next  a  similar  layer  of  the  raw  onions  sliced,  then  the  fried  pork  and  onions  and 
half  the  sea  biscuit,  and  season  this  layer  highly  with  salt,  pepper  and  powdered  cloves. 
Repeat  the  layers  of  fish,  potatoes,  onions  and  sea-biscuit  until  all  are  used,  seasoning 
them  as  directed  above;  pour  cold  water  into  the  kettle  until  it  entirely  covers  these  ingre- 
dients, cover  the  kettle  closely  and  boil  its  contents  slowly  until  the  potatoes  are  thor- 
oughly cooked.  When  the  potatoes  are  done  add  a  quart  of  claret  to  the  chowder;  let  it 
just  reach  the  boiling  point,  remove  the  bunch  of  thyme,  and  then  serve  the  chowder  in  a 
tureen. 

BROWN    STEW   OF    EELS    AND    MUSHROOMS. 

After  two  pounds  of  eels  have  been  dressed  and  washed  in  plenty  of  cold,  salted  water, 
cut  them  in  two-inch  lengths,  put  them  over  the  fire  in  enough  cold  water  to  cover  them, 
let  the  water  heat  to  the  boiling-point,  and  then  drain  the  eels  and  dry  them  on  a  clean 
cloth;  meantime  open  a  can  of  mushrooms,  and  put  the  liquid  ready  to  use  in  making  the 
sauce;  or,  if  fresh  mushrooms  are  used,  free  them  from  sand  and  all  imperfections,  wash 
them  in  plenty  of  cold,  salted  water,  and  cut  them  rather  small ;  after  the  eels  are  dried, 
roll  them  in  flour  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper,  put  them  over  the  fire  in  a  saucepan  con- 
taining sufficient  butter  to  prevent  burning,  and  brown  them  evenly;  when  the  eels  are 
brown  add  the  mushrooms,  enough  boiling  water  to  cover  them,  and  a  palatable  seasoning 
of  salt  and  pepper;  if  canned  mushrooms  are  used,  add  the  liquid  in  which  they  are  pre- 


86  HOME    DISSERTATIONS. 

served  ;  let  the  eels  and  mushrooms  cook  together  for  about  twenty  minutes,  or  until  t>oth 
are  tender,  and  then  serve  them  hot.  A  glass  of  wine  may  be  added  just  before  serving, 
if  its  flavor  is  desired. 

FRIED    EELS. 
Prepare  as  for  stewing;  roll  in  flour,  and  fry,  in  hot  lard  or  dripping,  to  a  light  brown. 

BROILED    HALIBUT    WITH    MAITRE    D'HOTEL 
Butter  both  sides  of  the  broiler.     Season  the  slices  of  halibut  with  salt  and  pepper, 

place  them  in  the  broiler  and  cook  over  clear  coals  for  twenty  minutes,  turning  frequently. 

Place  on  a  hot  dish,  and  spread  on  them  the  sauce,  using  one  spoonful  to  each  pound. 

Garnish  with  parsley. 

A   LA   MAITRE    D'HOTEL. 
Put  in  a  small  bowl  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fresh  butter,  a  saltspoon  of  salt,  the  same 

of  pepper,  two  of  chopped  parsley,  the  juice  of  a  small  lemon  or  the  same  quantity  of 

white  vinegar,  and  a  very  little  cayenne.     Mix  all  together  and  keep  in  a  cool  place. 

This  is  a  good  sauce  with  broiled  'kidneys,  or  with  broiled  meats  of  any  kind. 

BROILED   SALT    MACKEREL   WITH    BUTTER   SAUCE. 

Soak  a  salt  mackerel  overflight,  laying  it  in  plenty  of  cold  water,  with  the  skin  upper- 
most, so  that  the  salt  may  fall  to  the  bottom  of  the  water  after  it  is  disengaged  from  the 
fish.  In  the  morning  trim  off  the  tail,  fins  and  point  of  the  head  ;  dry  the  mackerel,  put 
it  between  the  bars  of  a  double-wire  gridiron,  well  buttered  to  prevent  sticking,  and  brown 
the  fish  over  a  hot  fire;  while  it  is  being  browned  boil  some  potatoes,  as  directed  in  the 
following  recipe,  and  make  a  butter  sauce;  when  the  potatoes  and  sauce  are  ready,  serve 
them  separately  in  hot  dishes,  and  serve  the  fish  with  some  slices  of  lemon,  or  a  few  sprigs 
of  parsley  or  water-cresses,  on  the  dish,  as  a  garnish. 

BUTTER   SAUCE   FOR    BROILED    MACKEREL. 

Put  in  a  saucepan  over  the  fire  a  tablespoon  each  of  butter  and  flour,  and  then  stir 
them  until  they  bubble;  then  gradually  stir  in  a  pint  of  boiling  water,  and  when  the  sauce 
is  smooth  season  it  with  a  level  teaspoon  of  salt,  quarter  of  a  saltspoon  of  white  pepper, 
,and  a  tablespoon  of  chopped  parsley  or  capers,  if  either  is  available;  after  the  sauce  has 
jboiled  for  two  minutes,  add  to  it  three  tablespoons  of  butter  cut  in  small  pieces,  and  stir 
the  sauce  until  the  butter  is  melted  ;  do  not  allow  the  sauce  to  boil  after  the  butter  is 
added  ;  when  the  butter  is  melted  put  in  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  and  serve  the  sauce  at 
once  with  the  fish. 

BROILED  TROUT  WITH  BROWN  GRAVY. 

After  a  large  trout  has  been  scaled,  split  it  down  the  back,  dress  it,  wash  it  in  cold 
water,  dry  it  with  a  clean  towel,  lay  it  between  the  bars  of  a  well-buttered  double-wire  grid- 
iron, and  broil  it  over  a  quick  fire;  while  the  fish  is  being  cooked,  stir  .together  over  the 


FISH.  87 

fire  a  tablespoon  each  of  butter  and  flour  until  they  begin  to  brown;  then  gradually  stif 
in  a  pint  of  boiling  water,  a  tablespoon  of  any  highly  seasoned  pickle  chopped  very  fine, 
a  level  teaspoon  of  salt,  and  a  quarter  of  a  saltspoon  of  pepper;  when  the  sauce  boils  it  is 
ready  to  use;  pour  a  little  of  it  on  a  hot  platter  to  receive  the  fish,  and  serve  the  rest  in  a 
sauce-bowl ;  when  the  trout  is  done  transfer  it  without  breaking  to  the  platter  containing 
the  sauce,  and  serve  it  hot. 

BROOK  TROUT  WITH  NEW  POTATOES. 

Scrape  or  rub  the  skin  from  a  quart  of  small  new  potatoes  of  even  size,  boil  them  until 
tender  in  salted  boiling  water,  and  then  drain  them  and  put  them  into  the  following  sauce 
while  the  trout  are  being  cooked  ;  to  make  the  sauce,  put  over  the  fire  a  tablespoon  each  of 
butter  and  flour,  and  stir  them  until  they  are  smoothly  blended  ;  then  gradually  stir  in  a 
pint  of  milk,  a  level  teaspoon  of  salt,  and  a  palatable  seasoning  of  white  pepper,  and  let 
the  sauce  boil  before  putting  the  potatoes  into  it;  after  the  potatoes  and  sauce  are  put 
over  the  fire,  wash  a  dozen  small  trout  in  cold,  salted  water,  and  dry  them  on  a  clean  towel; 
rub  a  frying-pan  with  a  cut  onion,  put  into  it  two  tablespoons  of  butter  and  one  each  of 
chopped  parsley  and  green  herb  in  season;  set  the  pan  over  the  fire,  and  when  the  butter 
is  hot,  put  the  trout,  season  them  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  shake  the  pan  often  enough 
to  keep  the  trout  from  burning;  when  the  trout  are  done  serve  them  hot  with  the  dish  of 
stewed  new  potatoes. 

BROILED   SHAD. 

After  a  shad  has  been  cleaned  and  washed  in  cold  water,  wipe  it  with  a  clean  cloth, 
put  it  between  the  bars  of  a  double-wire  gridiron,  thickly  buttered  to  prevent  sticking,  and 
place  the  inside  to  the  fire;  as  the  fish  browns  moisten  it  with  a  little  butter  seasoned  with 
salt  and  pepper  and  cook  it  thoroughly  on  both  sides;  if  the  fish  contains  a  roe,  lay  it  in 
cold  salted  water  and  cook  it  later,  according  to  the  directions  given  below.  Mix  together 
cold  a  tablespoon  each  of  finely-chopped  parsley  and  butter,  a  saltspoon  of  salt,  quarter 
of  a  saltspoon  of  pepper,  and  a  teaspoon  of  lemon  juice,  and  use  the  mixture  to  spread 
over  the  fish  when  it  is  cooked;  or  butter,  salt  and  pepper  can  be  used  to  season  the  shad. 
If  parsley  or  lemon  is  available,  either  or  both  may  be  used  as  a  garnish. 

STEAMED    FISH. 

Secure  the  tail  of  the  fish  in  its  mouth;  lay  it  on  a  plate,  and  pour  over  it  half  a  pint 
of  vinegar,  season  with  pepper  and  salt;  let  it  stand  an  hour  in  the  refrigerator;  then  pour 
off  the  vinegar,  and  put  it  in  a  steamer  over  boiling  water;  steam  twenty  minutes,  or 
longer  if  the  fish  is  very  large;  when  done,  the  meat  parts  easily  from  the  bone;  drain 
well,  and  serve  on  a  napkin,  garnish  with  curled  parsley;  serve  drawn  butter  in  a  boat. 

CURRY   OF   SHAD    ROE. 

Boil  a  pair  of  roes  in  slightly  salted  water;  arrange  them  on  a  dish,  surrounded  by  a 
border  of  boiled  rice;  pour  over  them  a  curry  sauce  and  serve. 


HOME   DISSERTATION^ 
RUSSIAN    CAVIARE. 

FISH   ROE. 

Caviare  was  considered  a  delicacy,  by  some  in  Shakespeare's  time,  but  was  not  relished  by  most.  Hence, 
Hamlet  says  of  a  certain  play,  "'twas  caviare  to  the  general;  but  it  was— as  I  icceived  it,  and  otners, 
whose  judgments  in  such  matters  cried  in  the  top  of  mine — an  excellent  play,  well  digested  in  the  scenes,  set 
down  with  as  much  modesty  as  cunning.  I  remember  one  said  there  was  no  sallets  in  the  lines  to  make  the 
matter  savory,  nor  no  matter  in  the  phrase  that  might  indict  the  author  of  affectation;  but  called  it  an  honest 
method,  as  wholesome  as  sweet,  and  by  very  much  more  handsome  than  fine." 

"  I  dined  not  long  ago  at  the  house  of  a  man  famous,  and  justly  so,  for  giving  good  dinners,  and  to  my 
disgust  some  superb  caviare,  the  genuine  sea-green,  unpressed,  large-grained  caviare  was  served  round  at  the 
end  of  the  dinner  as  a  savory  dish  on  little  round  bits  of  toast  and  made  hot.  This  struck  me  as  actual  sav- 
agerv>  givmg  '  lumps  of  weight '  to  the  Usbegs  and  Turcomans.  When  a  mere  child  I  was  acquainted  with 
many  of  the  Polish  and  Hungarian  refugees  on  whose  head  a  price  was  set.  It  was  from  a  some  time  artillery 
officer,  a  Pole  by  birth  and  aide-de-camp  to  General  Bern,  that  I  learned  how  to  deal  with  sea-green  caviare. 
The  method  is  to  have  brown  bread  well  buttered  ready  and  a  couple  of  lemons.  When  the  pot  of  caviare  is 
opened  it  is  necessary  to  judge  of  its  consistency.  If  of  the  best  quality  in  the  season  it  will  need  little  if  any 
addition  of  the  finest  lucca  or  province  oil.  But  if  the  season  is  early  to  add  oil  to  caviare  is  to '  throw  a  perfume 
on  the  violet.'  When  oil — or  no  oil — is  decided  on,  then  comes  the  actual  preparation  which  the  host  had  bet- 
ter do  and  perform  himself.  To  a  large  soup-plate  full  of  caviare  add  the  juice  only  of  two  lemons  and  beat 
with  a  fork.  The  mass  will  immediately  become  pure  sea-green  with  white  spots  such  as  we  have  often  seen 
in  caviare.  This  famous  preparation  of  sturgeon  roe  should  also  be  eaten  as  a  hors  d'ceuvre  or  '  whet '  before 
dinner  and  not  after  it." 

SHAD    ROE    WITH    MASHED    POTATOES. 

After  a  shad  roe  has  been  washed  in  cold  water  wipe  it  dry,  put  it  into  a  frying-pan 
containing  two  tablespoons  of  lard,  butter  or  drippings,  season  it  with  salt  and  pepper, 
cover  the  pan  to  prevent  the  spattering  of  the  fat  while  the  roe  is  being  cooked,  and  fry 
it  for  about  twenty  minutes,  turning  it  several  times  to  insure  its  complete  browning;  as 
soon  as  the  roe  is  put  over  the  fire  peel  and  slice  a  quart  of  potatoes,  put  them  over  the 
fire  in  plenty  of  salted  boiling  water,  and  boil  them  until  they  are  tender  enough  to  press 
through  a  colander  with  a  potato  masher;  when  the  potatoes  are  soft  drain  them  by  pour- 
ing them  into  a  colander;  when  all  the  water  has  run  off  put  with  them  a  heaping  table- 
spoon of  butter  and  a  palatable  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper,  and  mash  them  through  the 
colander,  letting  them  fall  lightly  upon  a  hot  platter;  lay  the  shad  roe  upon  the  mashed 
potato  and  serve  the  dish  hot.  Pickled  or  fresh  cucumbers,  or  any  fresh  salad,  served 
with  the  dish,  is  a  great  addition  to  it. 

PHILADELPHIA    PLANKED    SHAD. 

Boards  for  planking  shad  are  for  sale  at  most  house-furnishing  stores  in  Eastern  sea- 
coast  cities,  but  when  not  available  in  this  way  they  can  be  made  readily.  An  oaken  plank 
two  inches  thick  is  planed  smooth  on  both  sides,  and  cut  about  eighteen  inches  wide  by 
tiirty  long;  small  staples  are  driven  upon  one  side,  near  the  four  corners,  in  such  a  way  as 
to  permit  two  stout  wires,  or  small  iron  rods  to  be  crossed  over  the  middle  of  the  board 
and  have  the  ends  slipped  under  the  staples;  sometimes  the  staples  are  dispensed  with, 


FISH.  89 

the  shad  being  simply  nailed  to  the  board  ;  the  board  is  placed  m  front  of  the  fire,  near 
enough  to  heat  but  not  to  be  in  danger  of  burning,  and  allowed  to  become  very  hot;  mean- 
time the  shad  is  scaled,  the  fins  and  tail  trimmed  off,  a  cut  made  down  the  middle  of  the 
back  to  admit  of  the  removal  of  the  back  bone  and  entrails,  the  liver  and  roe  being  saved  ; 
the  shad  is  then  rubbed  with  cold  butter  and  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper;  the  liver  and 
roe  are  placed  in  a  saucepan  with  half  a  lemon  sliced,  two  tablespoons  each  of  butter  and 
flour  rubbed  to  a  smooth  paste,  a  dozen  whole  cloves,  hot  water  enough  to  cover  them, 
and  a  palatable  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper,  and  stewed  gently  while  the  shad  is  being 
cooked  ;  when  the  shad  is  done  a  glass  of  wine  is  added  to  this  sauce,  the  liver  and  roe 
are  broken  up  with  a  fork,  and  the  sauce  is  sent  in  a  sauce-bowl  to  the  table  with  the  fish. 
When  the  plank  is  quite  hot  the  shad  is  laid  upon  it,  with  the  skin  next  the  board,  and 
placed  in  front  of  the  fire  to  brown,  a  prop  being  put  under  the  upper  part  of  board,  and 
the  lower  end  being  placed  in  a  large  pan  containing  two  tablespoons  of  butter;  the  board 
is  turned  when  the  juice  begins  to  run  from  the  fish,  so  that  it  may  be  equally  distributed 
through  it,  and  it  is  basted  frequently  with  the  butter  in  the  pan;  the  fish  need  not  be 
turned,  because  the  heat  of  the  plank  will  cook  the  side  next  to  it;  when  the  shad  is 
browned  it  is  properly  done;  the  regulation  way  of  served  planked  shad  is  to  lay  the  board 
on  a  large  platter,  remove  the  wires,  and  send  the  fish  to  the  table  on  the  hot  board  ;  but 
it  can  be  laid  on  a  hot  platter. 

STEWED    FISH. 

Six  pounds  of  any  kind  of  fish,  large  or  small ;  three  pints  of  water,  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  pork,  or  half  a  cup  of  butter;  two  large  onions,  three  tablespoons  of  flour,  salt  and 
pepper  to  taste.  Cut  the  heads  from  the  fish,  and  cut  out  all  the  bones.  Put  the  heads 
and  bones  on  to  boil  in  the  three  pints  of  water.  Cook  gently  half  an  hour.  In  the  mean- 
while cut  the  pork  in  slices,  and  fry  brown;  cut  the  onions  in  slices,  and  fry  in  the  pork 
fat.  Stir  the  dry  flour  into  the  onion  and  fat,  and  cook  three  minutes,  stirring  all  the  time. 
Now  pour  over  this  the  water  in  which  the  heads  and  bones  have  been  cooked,  and  sim- 
mer ten  minutes.  Have  the  fish  cut  in  pieces  about  three  inches  square.  Season  well 
with  salt  and  pepper,  and  place  in  the  stew-pan.  Season  the  sauce  with  salt  and  pepper, 
and  strain  on  the  fish.  Cover  tight,  and  simmer  twenty  minutes.  A  bouquet  of  sweet 
herbs,  simmered  with  the  heads  and  bones  is  an  improvement.  Taste  to  see  if  the  sauce 
is  seasoned  enough,  and  dish  on  a  large  platter.  Garnish  with  potato  balls  and  parsley. 
The  potato  balls  are  cut  from  raw  potatoes  with  a  vegetable  scoop,  and  boiled  ten  minutes 
in  salt  and  water  in  a  separate  dish.  Put  them  in  little  heaps  around  the  dish. 


SHELL    FISH. 

TO  BOIL  LOBSTER. 

Have  the  water  boiling  hot,  slightly  salted.  Put  the  lobster  in,  and  from  fifteen  to 
twenty  minutes  it  will  turn  a  bright  red,  when  remove  it  and  set  it  away  to  cool. 

LOBSTER    CUTLETS. 

In  making  them,  meat  of  a  lobster  weighing  two  and  one-half  pounds  cut  into  small 
dice  and  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper,  then  one  heaping  tablespoon  of  flour  added  to 
three  tablespoons  of  butter  which  has  been  heated.  When  the  butter  and  flour  are  smooth, 
a  half  cup  of  cream,  one  well-beaten  egg,  and  salt  and  pepper  mixed  with  it.  When  this 
boils  up  once,  the  lobster  is  added,  the  mixture  taken  from  the  fire  and  one  tablespoon  of 
lemon  juice  added.  The  mixture  is  then  poured  upon  a  flat  dish  and  set  away  to  cool. 
When  cold,  a  tin  cutlet  mould  is  buttered  and  sprinkled  with  bread-crumbs.  The  cold 
mixture  is  pressed  into  the  mould  and  then  turned  out.  This  continue  until  all  the  cutlet 
mixture  is  used.  The  mould  only  buttered  once,  being  well  crumbed  each  time.  The 
cutlets  are  now  dipped  in  beaten  egg  and  then  in  bread-crumbs,  and  placed  in  a  frying- 
basket  and  plunged  into  boiling  fat  for  about  two  minutes.  Put  part  of  a  small  claw  in 
each  one  to  represent  the  bone  in  a  cutlet. 

LOBSTER   CROQUETTES. 
Prepare  the  same  as  for  cutlets,  shaped  into  croquettes. 

LOBSTER   AND    CHICKEN   CURRY. 

Use  any  cold  cooked  chicken,  cut  in  small  pieces,  and  a  lobster  removed  from  the 
shell,  and  cut  the  bits  of  equal  size;  peel  and  slice  six  white  onions,  put  them  in  a  sauce- 
pan with  two  tablespoons  of  butter,  and  stir  them  occasionally  until  they  begin  to  brown; 
then  add  the  chicken  and  lobster,  a  heaping  tablespoon  of  curry  powder,  enough  boiling 
water  to  cover  these  ingredients,  and  a  palatable  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper;  let  the 
curry  cook  gently  for  half  an  hour;  meantime  put  a  cup  of  rice  over  the  fire  in  salted, 
boiling  water,  and  boil  it  steadily  for  twenty  minutes;  then  drain  off  all  the  water,  and  set 
the  saucepan  in  the  oven  to  dry  the  rice;  serve  the  curry  and  rice  together. 

WATER-TURTLES,  OR  TERRAPINS. 

Land-terrapins,  it  is  hardly  necessary  to  say,  are  uneatable,  but  the  large  turtle  that 
frequents  our  mill-ponds  and  rivers  can  be  converted  into  a  relishable  article  of  food. 

Plunge  the  turtle  into  a  pot  of  boiling  water,  and  let  him  lie  there  five  minutes.     You 

can  then  skin  the  under  part  easily,  and  pull  off  the  horny  parts  of  the  feet.     Lay  him  for 

ten  minutes  in  cold  water,  then  put  him  in  more  water,  slightly  salted,  boil  until  the  shells 

begin  to  separate  at  the  side;  then  carefully  take  away  the  legs  and  the  meat  attached  to 

90 


SHELL  FISH.  91 

the  tail;  save  the  eggs,  if  the  terrapin  contains  any;  if  not,  make  egg-balls  according  to 
them,  avoiding  the  breaking  of  the  gall  and  rejecting  the  large  intestine  which  lies  near 
the  directions  already  given;  cut  the  terrapin  meat  and  the  livers  in  inch  pieces,  and  put 
them  in  a  saucepan  with  a  quart  of  water  to  a  quart  of  terrapin  meat,  including  the  eggs 
and  liver;  add  six  whole  cloves,  one  grated  nutmeg,  and  half  a  pound  of  butter;  place 
the  saucepan  over  the  fire,  and  stew  the  terrapin  gently  for  half  an  hour;  meantime  brown 
a  tablespoon  of  flour  in  the  oven,  and  add  it  to  the  terrapin  with  a  tablespoon  of  sugar; 
add  also  the  juice  of  a  large  lemon,  cayenne  pepper  and  salt  to  a  palatable  point;  after  it 
is  cooked  a  half  hour  add  to  the  quantity  of  terrapin  mentioned  above  a  half  pint  each  of 
port  wine  and  sherry;  return  the  saucepan  to  the  fire  just  long  enough  to  heat;  then  serve 
the  terrapin  with  a  garnish  of  slices  of  lemon. 

This  method  of  cooking  terrapin  was  as  famous  as  the  hospitality  of  its  giver  in  the 
old  Washington  days  of  Clay,  Webster  and  Sumner. 

SOFT-SHELL    CRABS. 

Lift  the  shell  at  both  sides  and  remove  the  spongy  substance  found  on  the  back.  Then 
pull  off  the  "apron,"  which  will  be  found  on  the  under  side,  and  to  which  is  attached  a 
substance  like  that  removed  from  the  back.  Now  wipe  the  crabs,  and  dip  them  in  beaten 
egg,  then  in  fine  bread  or  cracker  crumbs.  Fry  in  boiling  fat  from  eight  to  ten  minutes, 
the  time  depending  upon  the  size  of  the  crabs.  Serve  with  Tartare  sauce.  Or,  the  egg 
and  bread-crumbs  may  be  omitted.  Season  with  salt  and  cayenne,  and  fry  as  before. 

SOFT-SHELL    CRABS,  BROILED. 

After  drying  and  cleaning  them  well,  season  them  lightly  with  cayenne  pepper  and 
salt;  then  drop  them  into  boiling  water  for  one  minute,  take  them  up  and  broil  over  a  clear, 
hot  fire.  Serve  very  hot,  with  a  la  maitre  d'hdtel,  or  sauce  Tartare. 

DEVILED    CRABS. 

One  dozen  fresh  hard-shell  crabs  boiled,  pick  out  the  meat  from  the  shells;  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  fresh  butter;  one  small  teaspoon  of  mustard  powder;  cayenne  pepper  and 
salt  to  taste. 

Put  the  meat  into  a  bowl  and  mix  carefully  with  it  an  equal  quantity  of  fine  bread- 
crumbs. Work  the  butter  to  a  light  cream,  mix  the  mustard  with  it,  then  stir  very  care- 
fully, a  handful  at  a  time,  the  mixed  crabs  and  crumbs.  Wash  the  crab  shells  and  fill  with 
the  mixture,  sprinkle  bread-crumbs  over  the  tops,  put  three  small  pieces  of  butter  upon 
the  top  qf  each,  and  brown  them  quickly  in  a  hot  oven.  They  will  puff  in  baking  and 
will  be  found  delicious.  Half  the  quantity  can  be  made. 


OYSTERS. 

r  f  "'HE  traditional  oyster  season  ends  the  last  of  April.     It  was  formerly  against  the 
law  to  sell  oysters  in  any  months  but  those  having  an  "  R  "  in  their  names,  but 
this  statute  is  long  since  obsolete,  and  as  good  a  "  broil "  or  "  half  shell  "  may  be  had 
in  August  nowadays  as  in  January.     "  In  fact/'  said  a  wholesale  oysterman,  "many  kinds 
of  oysters  are  in  their  best  condition  during  the  summer  months.     All  along  the  Connecti- 
cut shore  of  Long  Island  Sound,  where  oyster  culture  has  been  brought  down  to  a  science, 
people  think  oysters  are  better  in  summer,  and  eat  more  of  them  than  in  winter." 

It  is  not  as  generally  understood  as  it  should  be  that  oysters  have  medicinal  qualities 
of  a  high  order.  They  are  not  only  nutritious,  but  wholesome,  especially  in  cases  of  indi- 
gestion. It  is  said  "  there  is  no  ether  alimentary  substance,  not  even  excepting  bread, 
that  does  not  produce  indigestion  under  certain  circumstances;  but  oysters,  never.  Oyster 
juice  promotes  digestion.  By  taking  oysters  daily,  indigestion,  supposed  to  be  almost  in- 
curable, has  been  cured  ;  in  fact,  they  are  to  be  regarded  as  one  of  the  most  healthful  ar- 
ticles of  food  known  to  man.  Invalids  who  have  found  all  other  kinds  of  food  disagree 
with  them,  frequently  discover  in  the  oyster  the  required  aliment.  Raw  oysters  are  highly 
recommended  for  hoarseness.  Many  of  the  leading  vocalists  use  them  regularly  before 
concerts  and  operas;  but  their*strongest  recommendation  is  the  remarkable  wholesome  in- 
fluence exerted  upon  the  digestive  organs. 

RAW  OYSTERS. 

It  is  fashionable  to  serve  these  as  one  of  the  preliminaries  to  a  dinner  party  ;  some- 
times in  small  plates,  sometimes  on  the  half-shell.  They  are  seasoned  by  each  guest  ac- 
cording to  his  own  taste. 

A  pretty  arrangement  for  serving  raw  oysters  is  to  serve  them  in  a  block  of  ice. 
Select  a  ten-pound  block,  melt  with  a  hot  flat-iron  a  symmetrical-shaped  cavity  in  the  top 
to  hold  the  oysters  ;  chip  also  from  the  sides,  at  the  base,  so  that  the  ice-block  may  stand 
in  a  large  dish  on  the  napkin.  When  the  oysters  are  well  salted  and  peppered,  place  them 
in  the  ice,  and  let  them  remain  in  some  place  where  the  ice  will  not  melt  until  the  time  of 
serving.  The  salt  will  help  to  make  the  oysters  very  cold.  The  ice  may  be  decorated 
with  leaves  or  smilax  vines,  and  a  row  of  lemon  quarters  or  halves  may  be  placed  around 
the  dish  at  the  base  of  the  ice.  It  has  an  especially  pretty  effect  served  on  the  table  by 
gaslight.  Clams  may  be  served  in  the  same  manner. 

CREAM    OYSTERS. 

One  pint  cream,  a  little  more  than  a  pint  of  oysters,  one  tablespoon  of  flour,  salt  and 
pepper  to  taste;  let  the  cream  come  to  a  boil.     Mix  the  flour  with  a  little  cold  milk  and 
stir  into  the  boiling  cream.     Let  the  oysters  come  to  a  boil  in  their  own  liquor;  then  skim 
carefully.     Drain  off  all  the  liquor  and  turn  the  oysters  into  the  cream. 
92 


OYSTERS.  93 

OYSTERS  COOKED  AT  TABLE. 

Use  a  chafing-dish,  or  a  metal  dish  placed  over  a  small  alcohol  lamp,  at  the  table; 
have  the  oysters  carefully  freed  from  all  bits  of  shell ;  put  into  the  dish  for  a  pint  of 
oysters  two  heaping  tablespoons  of  butter,  a  dust  of  cayenne  and  the  oysters;  no  salt  is  to 
be  added  unless  the  butter  is  very  fresh;  stir  the  oysters  until  their  edges  begin  to  curl, 
and  then  put  out  the  lamp  and  serve  them. 

FRIED   OYSTERS   AND   ONIONS. 

Have  ready  over  the  fire  a  frying-kettle  half  full  of  fat,  heating,  and  a  large  frying-pan 
containing  two  tablespoons  of  butter  and  a  dust  of  cayenne  ;  peel  and  slice  a  pint  of 
white  onions,  and  when  the  fat  is  hot  drop  in  a  few  of  the  onions  at  the  time,  and  fry  them 
like  Saratoga  potatoes,  taking  them  out  of  the  fat  with  a  skimmer  and  putting  them  in  a 
colander  to  drain  ;  meantime  carefully  remove  all  bits  of  shell  from  a  quart  of  oysters, 
and  put  them  into  the  frying-pan  with  butter,  taking  care  that  the  butter  is  brown  ;  make 
some  toast,  and  lay  it  on  a  hot  platter  ;  put  the  fried  onions  around  the  toast ;  when  the 
edges  of  the  oysters  curl  pour  them  on  the  toast,  and  serve  the  dish  at  once. 

BATTER   FOR   CLAMS   AND   OYSTERS. 

One  cup  milk,  one  egg,  one  teaspoon  cream  of  tartar,  half  teaspoon  soda,  a  little  salt, 
and  flour  to  make  as  stiff  as  for  fritters. 

OYSTER   CROQUETTES. 

Scald  and  chop  fine  the  hard  part  of  oysters  after  taking  the  other  part  and  liquor  for 
a  soup  ;  add  an  equal  weight  of  mashed  potatoes  ;  to  one  pound  of  this  add  a  lump  of 
butter  the  size  of  an  egg,  a  teaspoon  of  salt,  half  a  teaspoon  of  pepper,  and  quarter  of  a 
-teacup  of  cream.  Make  in  small  cakes,  dip  in  egg  and  then  in  bread-crumbs,  and  fry  in 
plenty  of  melted  lard. 

FRIED   OYSTERS. 

The  oysters  should  be  large  and  the  cook  not  hurried.  Drain  the  oysters  in  a  colan- 
der ;  sprinkle  pepper  and  mix  well,  and  set  them  in  a  cold  place  for  fifteen  or  twenty 
minutes  before  cooking.  Roll,  separately,  each  oyster  in  sifted  crumbs  and  then  in  a 
batter,  made  of  the  yolks  of  as  many  eggs  as  you  have  dozens  of  oysters,  beaten  with  a 
little  clarified  butter,  or  salad  oil,  seasoned  with  a  pinch  of  cayenne  pepper  and  salted. 
Dip  each  oyster  from  the  crumb  into  this,  and  repeat  if  crumbs  enough  do  not  adhere. 
Fry  in  very  hot  fat,  and  have  enough  to  cover  the  oysters.  They  will  brown  beautifully, 
without  turning. 

SCALLOPED   OYSTERS. 

Three  dozen  oysters,  a  large  teacup  of  bread-crumbs,  two  ounces  of  butter,  pepper, 
salt,  half  a  teacup  of  oyster  juice.  Make  layers  of  these  ingredients,  putting  crumbs  in 
the  dish  first,  then  oysters,  seasoning  and  butter,  and  so  on  until  the  dish  is  full,  putting 


94 


HOME    DISSERTATIONS. 


crumbs  and  pieces  of  butter  upon  the  top,  pouring  the  liquor  over  all.  Bake  in  a  quick 
oven  about  fifteen  minutes.  These  can  be  put  in  oyster  shells  if  preferred,  and  can  be 
served  to  each  person  in  that  manner. 

OYSTERS   A   LA   POULETTE   OR   FRICASSEE. 

All  oysters  should  be  very  carefully  examined  to  see  that  no  pieces  of  shell  are  attached 
to  them.  This  is  a  tedious  process,  but  a  necessary  one.  For  a  poulette,  mix  a  table- 
spoon of  butter  and  a  tablespoon  of  flour  in  the  bottom  of  a  saucepan.  Then  add  the 
liquor  of  the  oysters  gradually.  If  there  is  not  enough  to  make  the  sauce  as  consistent  as 
cream  sauce,  put  in  water.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  a  very  little  nutmeg.  Let 
the  sauce  boil  for  one  minute,  and  then  put  in  the  oysters.  Let  them  remain  until  the 
edges  begin  to  curl ;  then  take  the  pan  off  the  fire  and  stir  into  it  the  yolks  of  three  raw 
eggs,  three  tablespoons  of  salad  oil,  and  one  tablespoon  of  vinegar  or  lemon  juice.  Add 
one  tablespoon  of  chopped  parsley,  and  the  oysters  will  be  ready  to  serve. 

M  OYSTER    FRITTERS. 

Drain  as  many  oysters  as  you  want  to  use,  sprinkle  some  salt  and  pepper  over  them, 
make  a  batter  of  three  well  beaten  eggs,  four  tablespoons  of  milk,  enough  flour  to  make  a 
thin  batter.  Heat  enough  lard  to  swim  the  fritters  in,  use  two  large  spoons  to  prepare 
them,  putting  a  little  batter  in  one  spoon  into  which  put  an  oyster  and  drop  on  it  more 
batter  from  the  other  spoon,  then  drop  it  into  the  hot  lard  and  fry  quickly  without  burning. 

M  OYSTER   CHOWDER. 

Put  thin  slices  of  salt  pork  into  the  bottom  of  a  kettle,  then  a  layer  of  thin  sliced  pota- 
toes, then  oysters  over  the  potatoes,  season  them  with  salt,  pepper  and  some  butter  ;  pour 
over  each  layer  half  a  teacup  of  tomato  catsup,  put  in  what  you  wish  in  layers,  pour  over 
it  the  liquor  of  the  oysters,  cover  tightly  and  let  stew  slowly  for  half  an  hour. 

M  OYSTER   PIE. 

Stew  enough  oysters  to  make  a  pie  the  size  you  wish;  if  the  liquor  is  fresh  stew  the 
oysters  in  it,  that  is,  let  them  just  come  to  a  boil,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  mix 
together  two  tablespoons  of  corn  starch  or  flour,  with  two  tablespoons  of  butter  to  a  pint 
of  the  stew;  line  a  deep  earthen  pie-plate  with  a  rich  paste  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  then 
put  in  the  oysters  and  cover  with  an  upper  crust  solid,  or  ornament  with  strips  of  paste. 

OYSTER  PATES. 

In  puffs  of  rich  pastry,  put  two  or  three  oysters  stewed  in  a  dressing  of  cream  ;  cover 
with  a  round  of  the  pastry,  and  serve.  Both  puffs  and  oysters  must  be  hot. 

STEWED   OYSTERS. 

It  is  important  that  oysters  be  drained  and  rinsed,  taking  out  every  particle  of  shell. 
When  canned  oysters  are  used,  which  is  generally  the  case  away  from  the  sea-coast,  do 
not  use  the  liquor,  but  if  fresh  oysters  can  be  had  the  liquor  should  always  be  used. 


OYSTERS.  95 

To  one  quart  of  oysters,  heat  a  pint  of  cream  or  milk  in  a  double  kettle,  or  in  one  vessel 
placed  in  another  of  hot  water.  If  the  oysters  are  canned  use  a  pint  of  water,  if  fresh 
boil  and  skim  the  liquor,  add  the  hot  cream,  to  which  there  must  be  two  tablespoons  of 
flour  rubbed  smooth  in  a  little  milk.  If  milk  is  used  instead  of  cream,  rub  an  ounce  and 
a  half  of  butter  with  the  flour;  season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  mace  if  liked  ;  when  very 
hot,  put  in  the  oysters,  and  serve  as  soon  as  they  are  puffed  and  curled.  If  preferred, 
the  oysters  when  drained  and  washed  may  be  stewed  in  hot  milk,  without  any  of  their  own 
liquor,  seasoned,  and  thickened  with  rolled  cracker. 

PHILADELPHIA    CLAM    CHOWDER. 

Peel  and  slice  one  quart  of  onions,  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  two  quarts  of  water, 
and  half  a  pound  of  salt  pork  cut  in  half-inch  pieces,  and  boil  these  ingredients  together 
for  half  an  hour;  then  add  one  quart  of  potatoes,  peeled  and  sliced  quarter  of  an  inch 
thick,  two  tablespoons  of  sugar,  one  of  salt,  one  teaspoon  each  of  sweet  marjoram  and 
summer  savory,  and  one  saltspoon  each  of  ground  cloves  and  red  pepper;  wash  one  quart 
of  clams,  chop  them  medium  fine,  put  them  into  the  chowder,  and  continue  to  cook  it  un- 
til the  potatoes  are  done;  meantime  soak  half  a  pound  of  sea-biscuit  in  cold  water  for  five 
minutes,  and  then  put  it  into  the  chowder.  Serve  the  chowder  hot,  with  a  plate  of  crackers. 

PHILADELPHIA    CLAM    SOUP. 

Twenty-five  small  clams,  one  quart  of  milk,  half  a  cup  of  butter,  one  tablespoon  of 
chopped  parsley,  three  potatoes,  two  large  tablespoons  of  flour,  salt,  pepper.  The  clams 
should  be  chopped  fine  and  put  into  a  colander  to  drain.  Pare  the  potatoes  and  chop 
rather  fine.  Put  them  on  to  boil  with  the  milk,  in  a  double  kettle.  Rub  the  butter  and 
flour  together  until  perfectly  creamy,  and  when  the  milk  and  potatoes  have  been  boiling 
fifteen  minutes,  stir  this  in,  and  cook  eight  minutes  more.  Add  the  parsley,  pepper  and 
salt,  and  cook  three  minutes  longer.  Now  add  the  clams.  Cook  one  minute  longer,  and 
serve.  This  gives  a  very  delicate  soup,  as  the  liquor  from  the  clams  is  not  used. 

SCALLOPED    CLAMS. 

Butter  a  deep  tin  dish,  put  in  a  layer  of  grated  bread  or  cracker  crumbs,  sprinkle  in 
pepper  and  bits  of  butter;  then  put  in  a  layer  of  clams  chopped  fine,  with  butter  and 
pepper,  and  repeat  with  alternate  layers  of  crumbs  and  clams  until  the  dish  is  full.  Let 
the  last  layer  be  of  crumbs,  with  plenty  of  butter  on  top;  put  a  plate  on  it,  after  adding 
one  cup  of  rich  milk,  and  bake  three-quarters  of  an  hour;  take  off  the  plate  long  enough 
to  brown  the  top  nicely  before  serving. 

M.  CLAM    STEW. 

Drain  the  liquor  from  fifteen  clams,  heat  the  liquor  in  a  porcelain  saucepan,  add  one 
tablespoon  of  flour  stirred  into  four  of  butter,  one  teaspoon  of  salt,  one  pint  of  cream  or 
milk,  let  all  come  to  a  boil,  then  add  the  clams;  if  very  large  cut  in  two.  If  the  clams  are 
in  the  shell,  place  them  on  a  gridiron  over  hot  coals,  taking  them  out  of  the  shells  soon  as 
open,  saving  the  juice. 


FRYING,    ROASTING,    BROILING,    STEWING 
AND    STEAMING. 

FRYING  means  cooking  by  immersion  in  hot  fat,  butter,  or  oil.  There  is  no  English  word 
for  what  is  called  frying  in  a  spoonful  of  fat,  first  on  one  side  and  then  on  the  other. 
Saute  is  the  French  word  and  should  be  Anglicized.  Ordinary  cooks  instead  of 
frying,  invariably  saute  everything.  Almost  every  article  that  is  usually  sauted  is  much 
jbetter  and  more  economical  if  fried  ;  as,  for  instance,  oysters,  fish,  birds,  cutlets,  crabs, 
etc.  The  fat  should  always  be  tested  before  the  article  is  immersed.  A  little  piece  of 
bread  may  be  thrown  in,  and  if  it  colors  quickly,  the  fat  is  ready,  and  not  before.  Hot 
grease  reaches  a  very  much  greater  temperature  than  boiling  water,  and  consequently  the 
surtace  of  anything  is  almost  instantaneously  hardened  or  crisped  when  thrown  in.  The 
inside  is  thus  kept  free  from  grease  and  quickly  cooked.  An  article  first  dipped  in  egg 
and  bread-crumbs  should  be  entirely  free  from  grease  when  thus  cooked,  as  the  egg  is 
hardened  the  instant  it  touches  the  fat,  and  the  oyster  or  whatever  is  being  cooked  is  per- 
fectly protected.  The  same  fat  can  be  used  repeatedly  for  frying  the  same  thing.  After 
frying,  let  the  fat  stand  for  about  five  minutes,  strain,  and  then  return  it  to  the  kettle, 
which  should  always  be  kept  covered,  after  it  is  once  cold.  The  fat  in  which  fish  is  fried 
should  not  again  be  used  for  anything  except  fish.  A  little  kettle  for  frying  potatoes  ex- 
clusively should  always  be  at  hand. 

Now,  as  to  the  steak  question.  I  admit  that  broiled  steak  is  excellent,  if  the  fire  is 
just  right,  and  the  only  proper  fire  is  a  bed  of  hard  wood  coals  or  charcoal,  and  even  coke; 
but  it  is  next  to  impossible  to  broil  nicely  with  either  hard  or  soft  coal, — the  universal  fuel 
in  this  part  of  the  world.  And  housekeepers  know  how  difficult  it  is  to  have  a  coal  fire 
just  ready  to  broil,  especially  in  the  early  morning,  and  how  often,  in  spite  of  their  best 
endeavors,  the  gas  and  smoke  will  affect  the  flavor  of  the  meat.  Now,  I  speak  of  the  best 
way  to  do  things  with  the  means  and  appliances  at  hand,  and  the  best  way  to  procure 
uniformly  good  results.  I  maintain,  and  am  prepared  to  prove,  that  steak  can  be  fried  to 
£qual  in  flavor  and  juiciness  any  broiled  steak  that  ever  was  cooked.  Broiling  is  a  good 
way  (and  I  believe  has  been  instituted)  to  prevent  ignorant  cooks  from  overdoing  it,  and 
is  certainly  better  than  having  it  fried  to  death. 

I  look  you  unflinchingly  in  the  eyes  while  I  lift  on  high  the  Frying  Pan.  What  is 
more,  I  defy  you  to  taste  the  difference  between  your  gridironed  steaks  and  the  steaks  I 
cook  in  a  pan — except  that  you  would  pronounce  mine  rather  the  better  !  I  do  not  praise 
myself.  The  necessity  of  having*  good  steaks  without  a  broiler  has  developed  in  me  a 
capacity  to  make  them  so.  I  keep  a  pan  on  purpose  for  steaks,  and  into  that  pan  no 
butter  or  lard  or  fat  of  any  sort  ever  enters,  and  it  is  kept  religiously  clean  and  smooth.  I 
96 


M.  A.  CAHN,  President  5.  L.  COOK,  Secretary 

COOK    &    CO. 

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VEREINIGTE  ULTRflMflRINFflBRIKEN,  "™^s,  wash-biue  in  Bans 


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IMPORTERS    OF    GENERAL    FOREIGN    MER- 
CHANDISE AND  JAVA  COFFEES 


FRYING— ROASTING.  97 

place  it  over  the  liveliest  kind  of  a  jack-pine  fire,  and  in  an  instant  it  is  at  broiling  heat, 
I  dry  two  steaks  with  a  napkin,  rub  a  little  salt  and  black  pepper  on  them,  and  lay  them 
in  the  frying-pan,  with  meantime  a  platter  and  a  lump  of  butter  waiting  in  the  oven.  In 
a  minute  the  steaks  are  ready  to  be  turned,  as  the  point  is  to  brown  them  on  both  sides 
as  quickly  as  possible,  and  so  retain  the  juice  and  flavors  that  are,  alas,  too  often 
sizzled  away  on  the  bars  of  a  gridiron.  In  four  minutes  the  steaks  are  done  sufficiently 
for  most  people — they  are  cut  a  trifle  thinner  than  for  coal-broiling, — and  are  placed  on 
the  platter  with  another  bit  of  butter  on  top  and  kept  closely  covered  for  a  few  moments. 
And  hereby  hangs  a  tale:  One  member  of  my  family  for  a  long  time  scoffed  at  these 
"fried"  steaks,  and  would  none  of  them.  One  day  a  thought  struck  me.  I  heated  the 
iron  potato-masher  to  a  lively  shade  of  color,  and  applied  it  to  the  top  of  a  tempting 
"porter-house,"  burning  bars  across  it  after  the  manner  of  a  broiler.  The  relish  with 
which  this  steak  was  devoured  by  the  biased  individual,  and  his  wonder  that  people  would 
submit  to  fried  steaks  when  broils  were  "  so  superior,"  was  only  equaled  by  my  relish  of 
the  joke  that  had  engulfed  him  so  completely.  After  he  had  innocently  eaten  and  praised 
these  steaks  for  two  or  three  weeks,  I  disclosed  to  him  in  a  few  impressive  words  how  he 
had  been  decieved.  He  was  staggered,  and,  of  course,  naturally  irritated  at  being  sold, 
but  he  now,  with  the  native  nobility  and  candor  of  his  soul,  acknowledges  that  my  way  of 
"  frying  "  is  quite  tolerable,  even  without  the  brand  of  the  potato-masher.  I  recommend 
this  method  to  all  with  whom  fuel  and  time  are  things  to  be  considered. 

Beef  stiet  salted  is  quite  as  good  for  frying  as  lard,  and  is  much  cheaper;  it  can  be 
prepared  for  use  as  follows:  Skin  carefully,  chop  it  fine,  add  to  it  any  fat  you  may  have 
skimmed  off  of  soup  or  meat  boilers,  put  it  on  the  fire  with  a  little  water,  boil  gently  fif- 
teen minutes,  skim  it  well  during  the  process,  take  from  the  fire,  leave  it  five  minutes,  and 
then  strain  it;  after  which,  put  it  in  pots,  and  keep  them  in  a  dry,  cool  place.  Cover  the 
pots  well  every  time  you  have  occasion  to  use  the  fat,  but  never  cover  them  while  the 
grease  is  warm.  This  fat  is  as  good  as  any  other  to  fry  fish,  fritters,  and  other  things 
that  require  to  be  entirely  covered  with  grease  in  cooking. 

There  are  a  few  common-sense  recipes  and  rules  which  the  young  housewife  will  do 
well  to  remember:  Meat  must  have  a  hot  fire  always  to  start  on  to  cicatrize  the  outside 
and  keep  in  the  juices.  Avoid  sticking  a  fork  in  it  as  much  as  possible.  When  necessary 
to  turn,  if  a  roast,  do  it  with  the  aid  of  a  cloth,  taking  it  by  the  skewers  or  bone.  If  boil- 
ing meat,  leg  of  mutton  for  instance,  pour  boiling  water  over  it  and  skim  thoroughly. 
Never  expose  meat  to  the  action  of  salt  while  cooking, — it  extracts  the  juice,  and  leaves 
the  meat  poor;  but  in  making  soup,  where  the  idea  is  to  extract  all  the  virtue  possible,  use 
salt.  Seasonings  must  be  added  to  the  gravy  of  the  meat,  which  should  always  be  thick- 
ened with  a  little  flour;  the  old-fashioned  way  of  rubbing  flour  into  the  roast  before  cook- 
ing is  a  good  one,  or  at  least  does  no  harm. 

Roasting,  meaning  to  heat  violently,  is  cooking  before  an  open  fire;  it  implies  the  action 
of  a  much  greater  degree  of  heat  than  that  employed  in  any  of  the  previously  specified 
methods  of  cooking.  In  the  days  of  open  fireplaces  this  was  the  general  mode  of  cooking 


9i>  HOME   DISSERTATIONS. 

large  pieces  of  meat;  now  but  few  persons  care  to  take  the  trouble  to  have  meat  so  cooked; 
consequently  baking,  or  roasting  as  it  is  improperly  termed,  in  a  very  hot  oven  is  found  to 
be  a  cheaper  and  more  convenient  method,  and  is  more  generally  adopted.  Meat  of  any 
kind  is  tenfold  better  roasted  than  baked.  In  Europe,  all  these  articles  are  roasted,  and 
people  there  would  have  great  contempt  for  a  piece  of  beef  or  a  turkey  baked.  Much  de- 
pends upon  the  management  of  the  fire.  It  should  be  made  some  time  before  the  meat 
is  placed  for  roasting,  so  that  the  coals  may  be  bright  and  hot.  It  should  also  be  strong 
enough  to  last,  with  only  the  addition  of  an  occasional  coal  at  the  top.  Basting  can  be 
avoided,  without  allowing  the  juice  to  escape — harden  the  sides  by  exposure  to  a  hot  fire. 
The  idea  of  basting  must  have  arisen  from  the  fact  that  the  juice  of  the  meat  was  allowed 
to  escape,  and  then  the  attempt  to  restore  it  by  basting.  To  baste  meat  when  only  fat  is 
in  the  pan  will  make  it  a  little  fatter.  The  seasoning  of  meat  before  it  is  brown  lets  out 
a  good  deal  of  juice. 

Broiling  is  a  very  important  matter  in  cooking;  too  many  persons  to  save  time  and 
trouble  fry  instead  of  broiling  chops;  steak,  birds,  and  fish;  in  fact  comparisons  should 
not  be  drawn  between  the  two  modes  of  cooking,  ham  being  twice  as  delicate  when  nicely 
broiled  as  when,  as  is  generally  the  case,  it  is  fried.  We  will  give  a  few  hints  about  broil- 
ing, which,  if  carefully  followed,  will  add  very  much  to  the  comfort  of  the  table.  Always 
grease  the  gridiron  well,  and  have  it  hot  before  the  meat  is  placed  upon  it.  Anything 
egged  and  bread-crumbed  should  be  buttered  before  it  is  broiled.  Fish  should  be  but- 
tered and  sprinkled  with  flour,  which  will  prevent  the  skin  from  adhering  to  the  gridiron. 
Cutlets,  and  in  fact  every  similar  thing,  are  more  delicate  buttered  before  broiling.  Birds 
and  other  things  which  need  to  be  halved,  should  be  broiled  inside  first.  Remember  that 
a  hot,  clear  fire  is  necessary  for  cooking  all  small  articles.  They  should  be  turned  often, 
to  be  cooked  evenly,  without  being  burned.  Never  put  a  fork  in  the  lean  pait  of  meat  on 
the  gridiron,  as  it  allows  the  juice  to  escape.  Always  cover  the  gridiron  with  a  tin  pan  or 
a  baking-pan.  The  sooner  the  meat  is  cooked  without  burning,  the  better.  The  pan 
holds  the  heat,  and  often  prevents  a  stray  line  of  smoke  from  touching  the  meat.  If  the 
fire  should  be  too  hot  sprinkle  salt  over  it. 

Puddings  when  boiled  should  be  cooked  in  boiling  water.  Wet  and  flour  the  cloth 
before  adding  the  pudding.  In  tying  the  pudding,  leave  room  enough  for  it  to  swell.  If 
cooking  in  a  mould,  do  not  fill  the  mould  quite  full.  Never  let  the  water  stop  boiling.  As 
it  wastes  away  in  boiling,  replenish  the  kettle  from  another  containing  boiling  water. 

Stewing  is  excellent,  wholesome,  and  economical,  and  is  best  done  on  a  stove,  over  a 
slow  fire.  Keep  the  lid  of  the  stew-pan  closely  shut,  and  simmer  the  contents  steadily. 
Never  bring  to  a  boil. 

Steaming.  There  is  one  thing  I  notice, — very  few  seem  to  think  much  of  steaming.  I 
like  to  steam  very  many  things — potatoes,  puddings,  brown  bread,  etc.  When  one  gets 
in  tne  way  of  it,  it  is  an  easy  and  a  good  way  for  many  things.  A  dish  of  rice  is  better  so, 
ana  no  trouble  with  burning. 


POULTRY. 

TO  PREPARE  A  FOWL  FOR  COOKING. 

First  take  out  the  feathers  and  then  singe  it.  For  doing  the  latter,  hold  the  fowl  over 
a  piece  of  lighted  paper,  or  a  spoonful  of  alcohol  on  a  plate,  the  latter  is  especially  rec- 
ommended because  it  gives  clean  flame.  Wash  quickly  in  one  water.  Take  out  the  pin 
feathers  with  the  point  of  a  knife.  To  cut  up  a  chicken  to  get  as  many  pieces  as  possible, 
cut  off  the  wings  so  that  a  little  piece  of  the  breast  remains  with  the  wing.  Remove 
the  crop  by  cutting  the  skin  at  the  back  of  the  neck.  Cut  off  the  neck  close  to  the  body. 
Next  take  off  the  wing  side-bones.  Having  cut  them  loose  from  the  backbone,  bend 
them  towards  the  front  and  they  will  part  at  the  joint;  loosen  them  with  the  knife.  Take 
off  the  legs  next.  Instead  of  making  a  division  between  the  second  joint  and  drumstick, 
cut  midway  the  second  joint,  and  then  just  below  the  joint,  and  trim  off  the  lower  end  of 
the  drumstick. 

Next  cut  through  the  side  just  where  the  breast-bone  joins  the  ribs.  Then  the  breast- 
bone can  be  pulled  free  from  the  back,  and  the  entrails  can  be  taken  out  easily  without 
breaking,  which  is  decidedly  a  consideration,  because  if,  in  drawing  a  chicken,  the  entrails 
are  broken,  it  becomes  necessary  to  wash  the  chicken  very  thoroughly,  and  you  thus 
destroy  its  flavor.  Cut  off  the  lower  part  of  the  breast-bone  without  splitting  it,  because, 
while  that  is  a  very  good  piece,  it  is  apt  to  be  a  very  small  one.  If  there  are  any  pieces 
of  ribs  attached  to  the  sides  of  the  breast-bone  trim  them  off.  Cut  the  upper  part  into 
two  pieces  right  down  the  middle,  or  into  four, — down  the  middle  and  then  each  piece  in 
two, — according  to  the  size  of  the  chicken.  Having  cut  up  the  breast-bone,  the  entrails 
are  to  be  taken  away  from  the  back,  cutting  around  the  vent  being  necessary  in  order  to 
loosen  them.  The  oil  bag  is  of  course  to  be  removed;  the  liver  also,  without  breaking 
the  gall,  which  can  be  avoided  by  leaving  a  little  piece  of  the  liver  attached  to  it.  Split 
the  gizzard,  take  out  the  bag  of  stones  within.  If  there  is  on  it  any  appearance  of  the 
contents,  wash  it,  not  otherwise.  Having  now  reduced  the  chicken  in  hand  to  "  first 
principles,"  separate  the  backbone  and  neck,  and  observe  the  back  sidebones,  where 
are  located  the  "  oysters."  If  the  back  is  split  entirely  down  the  "  oysters  "  are  cut  in 
two;  but  by  cutting  off  the  end  of  the  backbone  they  are  preserved.  To  some  they  are  the 
choicest  part  of  the  chicken. 

HOW   TO    PREPARE    AND    TRUSS    A   CHICKEN    FOR    ROASTING. 

After  the  fowl  has  been  drawn  and  rinsed,  by  deftly  cutting  the  skin  at  the  joint  of 
the  leg,  pull  out  the  tendons.  Then  cut  the  neck  off  near  the  body,  being  careful  to  leave 
all  the  skin,  and  also  remove  the  tips  of  the  wings.  These  parts,  with  the  heart,  liver  and 
gizzard,  can  be  boiled  for  gravy.  The  chicken  should  be  filled  with  a  light  dry  dressing 

99 


ioo  HOME    DISSERTATIONS. 

of  a  quart  of  grated  bread-crumbs,  using  the  white  portion  of  the  bread,  and  a  half  cup 
of  butter,  which  is  seasoned  with  a  tablespoon  of  salt,  a  scant  teaspoon  of  pepper,  one  of 
parsley,  one  of  summer  savory,  and  half  a  teaspoon  of  sage.  The  whole  should  be  mixed 
lightly.  When  the  chicken  is  filled  the  wings  and  legs  should  be  skewered  in  place  and 
the  skin  of  the  neck  drawn  down  by  a  skewer  on  to  the  back.  The  chicken  should  then 
be  rubbed  with  butter,  dredged  with  flour,  thoroughly  seasoned,  and  roasted  an  hour  and 
a  quarter.  It  should  be  basted,  dredged  with  flour,  and  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper 
lightly  every  fifteen  minutes  during  the  time  it  is  roasting. 

BOILED    CHICKEN. 

Carefully  pluck  and  draw  a  tender  chicken,  singe  it,  wipe  it  with  a  wet  towel,  cut  off 
the  head  and  feet,  and  truss  it  for  boiling;  put  the  chicken  over  the  fire  in  sufficient  water 
to  cover  it,  with  a  level  tablespoon  of  salt  and  a  teaspoon  of  peppercorns  or  a  small 
red  pepper;  boil  the  chicken  until  it  is  tender,  then  serve  it  with  cream  sauce.  A  fowl 
boiled  very  gently  for  about  four  hours,  or  until  it  is  tender,  and  served  with  the  cream 
sauce,  makes  an  economical  and  palatable  dish.  The  chicken  or  fowl  may  be  boiled  until 
nearly  tender  enough  to  serve,  then  taken  from  the  broth,  put  into  a  saucepan  with  the 
sauce,  and  the  cooking  finished  in  this  way. 

BROILED    CHICKEN. 

The  chicken  should  be  young  and  tender.  Cut  it  through  the  back,  clean,  wash,  and 
wipe  it  dry;  spread  it  'on  the  gridiron,  and  cook  slowly  with  the  inside  towards  the  fire; 
keep  ;t  so  until  nearly  done;  the  chicken  cooks  more  thoroughly  in  this  way,  and  the  sur- 
face being  seared,  the  juice  is  retained.  It  must  be  well  browned  on  both  sides,  then 
served  on  a  hot  platter  with  a  little  butter,  pepper,  and  salt.  Pigeons  may  be  broiled  in  the 
same  way. 

FRICASSEE    CHICKEN. 

Clean,  wash,  and  cut  up  the  fowls,  which  need  not  be  so  tender  as  for  roasting.  Lay 
them  in  salt  and  water  for  half  an  hour.  Put  them  in  a  pot  with  enough  cold  water  to 
cover  them,  and  half  a  pound  of  salt  pork  cut  into  thin  strips.  Cover  closely,  and  let  them 
heat  very  slowly;  then  stew  for  an  hour,  or  until  the  fowls  are  tender.  I  have  used  chickens 
jfor  this  purpose  that  required  four  hours  stewing,  but  they  were  tender  and  good  when 
done.  Only  put  them  on  in  season,  and  cook  very  slowly.  If  they  boil  fast,  they  toughen 
and  shrink  into  uneatableness.  When  tender,  add  a  little  parsley  chopped,  and  pepper. 
Cover  closely  again,  and,  when  it  has  heated  boiling,  stir  in  a  teacup  of  milk,  to  which 
have  been  added  two  beaten  eggs  and  two  tablespoons  of  flour.  Boil  up  fairly;  add  a 
tablespoon  of  butter.  Arrange  the  chicken  neatly  in  a  deep  chafing-dish,  pour  the  gravy 
over  it,  and  serve.  In  this,  as  in  all  cases  where  beaten  egg  is  added  to  hot  liquor,  it  is 
best  to  dip  out  a  few  spoonfuls  of  the  latter,  and  drop  a  little  at  a  time  into  the  egg.  beat- 


POULTRY.  ioi 

ing  all  the  while,  that  it  may  heat  evenly  and  gradually  before  it  is  put  into  the  scalding 
contents  of  the  saucepan  or  pot.  Eggs  managed  in  this  way  will  not  curdle,  as  they  are 
apt  to  do  if  thrown  suddenly  into  hot  liquid. 

FRIED    SPRING    CHICKEN    WITH    RICE. 

Carefully  pluck  and  singe  a  plump  spring  chicken,  cut  it  in  small  pieces,  removing  the 
intestines  without  breaking  them,  and  quickly  brown  it  in  a  hot  frying-pan  with  enough 
butter  to  prevent  burning;  season  the  chicken  with  salt  and  pepper;  take  care  it  is  done  in 
the  thickest  part  before  serving  it;  when  the  chicken  is  first  put  over  the  fire  to  cook,  put 
a  teacup  of  clean  rice  into  plenty  of  salted  boiling  water,  and  boil  it  fast  for  twenty  min- 
utes, or  until  the  kernels  are  just  tender;  then  drain  the  rice,  lay  it  on  a  hot  platter,  and 
serve  the  fried  chicken  on  it. 

CHICKEN  POT  PIE. 

Cut  up  two  large  fowls  and  season  them  with  pepper  only,  as  the  ham  or  pork  will  salt 
it  sufficiently.  Make  a  good  paste  in  the  proportion  of  a  pound  and  a  half  of  minced  suet 
to  three  pounds  of  flour;  let  there  be  plenty  of  paste,  as  it  is  always  much  liked  by  eaters 
of  pot  pie.  Roll  out  the  paste  an  inch  thick,  and  cut  most  of  it  into  long  squares.  To  pre- 
vent the  paste  sticking  and  burning,  butter  the  sides  of  the  pot  very  lavishly,  and  line  them 
with  paste  nearly  to  the  top.  Cut  up  a  pound  of  corned  ham  or  salt  pork,  lay  slices  at  the 
bottom  of  the  pot,  and  then  the  pieces  of  the  fowl,  interspersed  all  through  with  squares 
of  paste,  and  potatoes  pared,  quartered  and  parboiled,  as  the  first  water  in  which  they  are 
cooked  is  rank.  Pour  in  a  quart  of  water;  cover  the  whole  with  a  lid  of  paste,  having  a 
slit  in  the  centre,  through  which  the  gravy  will  bubble  up;  heat  very  slowly,  and  boil  two 
hours.  Half  an  hour  before  you  take  it  up,  put  in  through  the  hole  in  the  centre  of  the 
crust  some  bits  of  butter  rolled  in  flour,  to  thicken  the  gravy.  When  done,  put  the  pie  on  a 
large  dish,  and  pour  the  gravy  over  it;  the  ham  or  pork  will  salt  it  sufficiently. 

STEWED    FOWL    WITH    RICE. 

Truss  the  fowl  for  boiling,  and  stew  it  in  about  a  quart  of  mutton  broth  seasoned  with 
a  little  pepper,  salt,  and  half  a  blade  of  mace,  for  an  hour  and  a  half,  skimming  it  often. 
About  half  an  hour  before  the  fowl  is  ready  to  serve  add  a  large  cup  of  rice,  and  when 
tender  strain  the  broth  from  it,  and  place  the  rice  on  a  sieve  to  dry  and  swell  before  the 
fire,  keeping  the  fowl  hot;  then  place  it  in  the  centre  of  a  hot  dish,  with  the  rice  arranged 
in  rather  a  high  border  around  it.  Serve  with  parsley  and  butter  sauce  in  a  tureen. 

CHICKEN   CROQUETTES. 

One  pound  of  cooked  chicken,  half  a  teaspoon  of  pepper,  half  a  tablespoon  of  salt,  half 
a  tablespoon  of  butter,  one  egg,  half  a  pint  of  cream,  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  cracker  crumbs. 
Chop  the  chicken  very  fine,  mix  it  with  the  salt,  pepper,  butter,  egg  and  cream,  have  your 


102  HOME   DISSERTATIONS. 

molding  board  well  covered  with  cracker  crumbs,  form  your  croquettes  in  shape  and  roll 
them  in  the  crumbs,  first  covering  them  with  well-beaten  egg,  fry  them  in  a  croquette 
basket  in  boiling  fat  until  a  light  brown.  Veal  and  turkey  may  be  used  instead  of  chicken. 

CHELSEA   CHICKEN   CUTLETS,  WITH  GREEN  PEAS. 

Prepare  the  same  as  for  croquettes,  then  shape  them  like  cutlets,  cover  with  well-beaten 
egg  and  grated  bread,  and  fry  the  same  as  croquettes,  serve  on  a  platter  garnished  with 
green  peas. 

BONED   CHICKEN   FOR   PICNICS. 

Bone  two  chickens,  lay  upon  the  table  and  spread  first  with  a  layer  of  boiled  tongue  in 
slice,  then  with  nicely  seasoned  veal  forcemeat,  and  lastly  wit!n  slices  of  broiled  ham.  Roll 
each  up  firmly,  tie  round  with  tape  and  simmer  on  the  back  of  the  stove  in  a  deep  sauce- 
pan with  the  chicken  bones,  some  herbs,  onion,  carrot,  etc.,  for  flavoring,  and  enough 
water  to  cover.  When  tender  take  out  the  chickens  and  let  the  well  seasoned  gravy  sim- 
mer longer  until  reduced  to  a  pint;  then  add  to  it  an  ounce  of  dissolved  gelatine,  and  when 
the  gravy  is  nearly  set  into  jelly  pour  it  over  the  chickens.  These  must  have  been  pre- 
viously unbound  and  cut  into  slices  ready  for  serving,  but  still  retaining  their  shape.  Gar- 
nish the  platter  with  parsley  sprigs  and  sliced  lemon. 

CANTONS   DE    ROUEN. 

This  is  a  very  interesting  dish,  the  little  ducks  being  made  from  the  legs  of  a  chicken. 
Select  a  chicken  which  has  an  unbroken  skin.  Cut  the  legs  off  in  the  usual  way,  only  be 
careful  to  leave  as  much  skin  as  possible.  Remove  the  thigh  bones  without  cutting  the 
skin — not  a  difficult  thing  to  do.  Replace  the  bones  with  some  stuffing  of  bread  and 
herbs,  or  mushroons,  if  you  wish.  After  the  thighs  are  stuffed  cut  off  the  lower  bones 
about  an  inch  below  the  joint.  Then  truss  into  shape.  Roast  or  bake  the  little  ducks  and 
serve  them  with  green  peas,  or  salad,  or  mixed  vegetables.  If  you  want  to  make  them 
very  rich,  season  the  stuffing  with  salt,  and  pepper,  and  spices,  and  add  the  white  of  an 
egg  and  about  a  teaspoon  of  butter.  To  make  dry  stuffing,  break  up  the  soft  part  of 
bread  fine,  soak  the  crusts  and  squeeze  them  dry,  and  break  them  up  fine,  and  then  season 
in  any  way  you  like,  only  don't  put  in  any  liquid.  Before  baking  the  cantons  you  can  tie 
on  their  backs  a  thin  slice  of  salt  fat  pork.  That  is  called  "  larding,"  They  look  pretty 
when  they  have  something  on  them, — leaves  of  parsley,  watercresses,  or  anything  of  the 
kind. 

PRESSED    CHICKEN. 

Boil  one  or  two  chickens  in  a  small  quantity  of  water,  with  a  little  salt;  when  thoroughly 
done,  take  all  the  meat  from  the  bones,  keeping  the  light  and  dark  meat  separate;  chop 
fine  and  season.  Put  in  a  pan  a  layer  of  dark  and  light  meat;  add  the  liquor  it  was  boiled 
in,  which  should  be  about  a  cup.  Press  with  a  small  weight.  When  cold,  cut  in  slices. 


POULTRY.  103 

CURRIED   FOWL   A   L'INDIFNNE. 

One  fowl,  one  pint  stock,  three  dessertspoons  of  curry  powder,  six  onions,  four  ounces 
butter,  one  gill  milk,  three  tomatoes,  three  cloves  of  garlic,  half  a  lemon,  one  ounce  rais- 
ins, weighed  before  stoning.  Rub  curry  the  day  before  to  a  paste  with  a  little  milk,  add- 
ing the  rest  by  degrees;  let  simmer  very  slowly  next  day;  fry  onions,  garlic,  tomatoes, 
sliced  in  butter,  then  fry  pieces  of  fowl  brown  ;  put  all  to  stew  half  an  hour,  except  the 
lemon,  and  add  that  last  before  seasoning. 

CHICKEN   JELLY. 

One  pair  of  chickens,  two  tablespoons  of  Worcestershire  sauce,  two  tablespoons  walnut 
sauce,  one  tablespoon  of  salt,  half  a  teaspoon  of  mace,  half  a  teaspoon  of  cloves  and  all- 
spice, ten  eggs,  two  lemons.  Boil  the  chickens  till  you  can  pull  the  meat  from  the  bones. 
Allow  the  bones  to  boil  half  an  hour  longer,  stand  it  in  a  cool  place  and  it  will  jelly.  Next 
day  cut  the  meat  in  small  pieces,  melt  the  jelly  and  put  the  meat  in  it;  add  the  sauce  and 
spices,  boil  the  eggs  hard  and  cut  in  slices,  also  the  lemons,  line  a  mould  or  bowl  with 
these  slices,  pour  in  the  mixture  and  let  it  stand  in  a  cool  place  ;  but  not  to  freeze.  The 
water  should  just  cover  the  chicken  when  put  to  boil.  This  is  a  very  ornamental  dish  and 
keeps  good  a  long  time. 

ROAST    TURKEY. 

Turkey,  seasoning,  bread-crumbs,  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  a  little  thym<% 
Choose  a  nice  fat  turkey  of  eight  or  ten  pounds,  clean  and  singe  it,  wipe  carefury  Vfh 
a  damp  towel  but  do  not  wash  in  water,  and  fill  with  dressing  which  has  been  prepared 
as  follows  :  Grate  enough  dry  bread  to  fill  it  loosely,  not  packed  tightly  ;  to  this  add 
your  butter  cut  into  small  pieces,  pepper  and  salt  to  taste,  and  about  two  tablespoons 
of  thyme  rubbed  fine  ;  mix  all  these  well  together  and  your  dressing  is  ready  for  use  ; 
stuff  your  turkey,  tie  it  well  in  shape;  either  lard  the  top  or  lay  slices  of  bacon  over 
it ;  wet  the  skin,  and  sprinkle  it  well  with  pepper,  salt,  and  flour.  It  is  well  to  allow  a 
turkey  to  remain  some  time  stuffed  before  cooking.  The  secret  of  having  a  good  roast 
turkey  is  to  baste  it  often  and  cook  it  long  enough.  A  turkey  weighing  ten  pounds  should 
cook  three  hours  and  a  half  at  least.  The  excellence  of  the  turkey  depends  much  upon 
the  frequency  of  basting  it;  occasionally  baste  it  with  a  little  butter,  oftener  with  its  own 
drippings.  Just  before  taking  it  up  from  the  fire  or  out  of  the  oven,  put  on  more  melted 
butter,  and  sprinkle  over  flour;  this  will  make  the  skin  more  crisp  and  brown.  While  the 
turkey  is  cooking,  boil  the  giblets  well,  chop  them  fine,  and  mash  the  liver.  When  the 
turkey  is  done,  put  it  on  a  hot  dish.  Put  the  baking  pan  on  the  fire,  dredge  in  a  little 
flour,  and  when  cooked  stir  in  a  little  boiling  water  or  stock;  strain  it,  skim  carefully,  add 
the  giblets,  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Besides  the  gravy,  always  serve  cranberry  jelly 
with  turkey. 


104?  HOME    DISSERTATIONS. 

A  SIMPLE  WAY  OF  PREPARING  BONED  TURKEY  OR  CHICKEN. 

Boil  the  fowl  in  as  little  water  as  possible,  until  the  bones  can  easily  be  separated  from 
the  meat.  Remove  all  of  the  skin,  slice  and  mix  together  the  light  and  dark  parts,  pre- 
pare a  dressing  as  for  roast  turkey,  put  upon  the  fire  to  melt  the  butter,  then  mould  into 
a  round  ball  and  put  the  meat  all  around  it.  Boil  down  the  liquid  in  which  the  turkey  cr 
chicken  was  boiled,  then  pour  it  on  the  meat;  wrap  it  tightly  in  a  cloth,  press  it  with  a 
heavy  weight  for  a  few  hours.  When  served,  it  is  cut  into  thin  slices. 

BOILED   TURKEY   WITH   CELERY   SAUCE. 

The  best  turkeys  marketed  in  New  York  are  those  called  mutton-fed;  they  are  always 
in  prime  condition,  and  are  worth  the  slight  advance  in  price  over  the  ordinary  turkey.  To 
boil  a  turkey  have  it  carefully  plucked,  singed  and  wiped  all  over  with  a  towel  wet  in  cold 
water  ;  after  it  is  wiped  cut  off  the  head  and  neck  close  to  the  body,  first  cutting  the  skin 
down  the  back  of  the  neck,  so  as  to  leave  the  breast  skin  entire;  throw  away  the  windpipe 
and  crop.  To  draw  the  bird  make  a  cut  under  the  leg  where  it  can  be  concealed  in 
trussing  the  bird,  and  then  loosen  the  entrails  from  the  body  of  the  bird  ;  trm  can 
easily  be  done  by  pressing  the  back  of  the  fingers  close  against  the  inside  of  the  car- 
cass and  cautiously  breaking  the  thin  covering  of  the  intestines  away  from  the  bones  ; 
after  the  turkey  is  drawn,  carefully  wash  a  bunch  of  celery  in  plenty  of  cold  salted  water  ; 
cut  the  tender  stalks  in  half-inch  bits,  put  the  celery  into  the  turkey,  with  a  heaping  tea- 
spoon of  salt  and  a  liberal  dust  of  cayenne,  and  sew  up  and  truss  the  turkey.  After  the 
turkey  is  stuffed  and  trussed,  put  it  into  a  large  saucepan  with  enough  boiling  water  to 
cover  it,  add  two  teaspoons  of  salt  and  a  small  dried  red  pepper,  or  a  teaspoon  of  pepper- 
corns, keep  the  saucepan  covered,  and  boil  the  turkey  slowly  until  it  is  tender,  which  will 
be  in  about  ten  minutes  to  each  pound,  from  the  time  it  begins  to  boil.  When  the  turkey 
is  done  take  it  up,  remove  the  cords  or  skewers  used  in  trussing,  and  serve  it  hot,  with  a 
sauce  made  as  follows:  When  the  turkey  is  nearly  done,  put  in  a  small  saucepan  over  the 
fire  a  heaping  tablespoon  each  of  butter  and  flour,  and  stir  them  together  until  they  begin 
to  bubble;  then  gradually  stir  in  about  a  pint  of  the  broth  in  which  the  turkey  has  been 
boiling  ;  when  the  sauce  is  stirred  quite  smooth  season  it  palatably  with  salt  and  pepper 
and  serve  it  in  a  sauce-boat  with  the  turkey. 

MINCED  TURKEY  WITH  POACHED  EGG. 

A  very  appetizing  dish  is  made  of  cold  boiled  or  roast  turkey.  Trim  off  all  skin  and 
most  of  the  fat,  especially  that  on  the  back;  pick  out  the  little  tidbits  in  the  recesses.  Cut 
off  all  that  will  not  look  neat  when  sliced  cold.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  a  table- 
spoon or  two  of  minced  celery,  chop  up  the  meat,  put  it  in  a  pan  with  a  little  butter  or 
turkey  fat,  to  prevent  burning.  Moisten  with  a  little  broth  made  from  the  turkey  bones. 
Poach  one  or  two  eggs  for  each  person;  arrange  the  minced  meat  neatly  on  slices  of  but- 
tered toast,  place  the  egg  on  top  and  serve.  The  above  mode  of  preparing  a  breakfast 


POULTRY.  105 

dish  is  not  only  economical,  but  produces  one  of  the  most  delicious  dishes  that  can  be 
made.  Almost  any  kind  of  boiled  or  roast  poultry,  game  or  meats  can  be  utilized  in  this 
way. 

BRAISED  DUCKS. 

Truss  a  pair  of  fine,  young  and  fat  ducks  as  for  roasting  and  place  them  in  a  stew-pan 
together  with  two  or  three  slices  of  bacon,  a  carrot,  an  onion  stuck  with  two  cloves,  and  a 
little  thyme  and  parsley.  Season  with  pepper,  and  cover  "the  whole  with  a  broth,  adding 
to  the  broth  a  gill  of  white  wine.  Place  the  pan  over  a  gentle  fire  and  allow  the  ducks  to 
simmer  until  done,  basting  them  frequently.  When  done,  remove  them  from  the  pan  and 
place  them  where  they  will  keep  hot.  A  turnip  should  then  be  cut  up  and  fried  in  some 
butter.  When  well  browned,  drain  the  pieces  and  cook  them  until  tender  in  the  liquor  in 
which  the  ducks  were  braised.  Now  strain  and  thicken  the  gravy,  and  after  dishing  up 
the  ducks,  pour  it  over  them,  garnishing  with  the  pieces  of  turnip. 

ROASTED    DUCKS. 

Clean  and  truss  them  like  chickens.  For  two,  make  a  dressing  of  half  a  pound  of  bread- 
crumbs, three  ounces  of  butter,  one  large  onion  grated,  one  teaspoon  of  salt,  and  half 
teaspoon  of  pepper.  Season  the  ducks  both  inside  and  out  with  pepper,  salt,  and  a  little 
sage;  put  them  in  the  dripping-pan  with  a  little  water;  put  bits  of  drippings  over  them, 
and  as  they  cook,  baste  very  often.  Stew  and  chop  the  giblets  for  the  gravy,  which  must 
be  made  in  the  dripping-pan,  after  pouring  off  most  of  the  fat;  thickening  it  a  little  with 
flour  and  season  well.  Stewed  cranberries  or  apple  sauce  should  be  served  with  them. 

ROAST  GOOSE. 

Clean  and  truss  it;  and  if  old,  boil  half  an  hour  sewed  in  a  clean  cloth;  then  stuff  it 
with  bread-crumbs,  seasoned  with  butter,  pepper,  salt  and  sage;  dot  it  with  drippings  or 
lard,  and  baste  very  often  while  baking.  The  stuffing  may  be  made  of  mashed  potatoes, 
instead  of  bread-crumbs,  and  sweet  marjoram.  Stewed  apples  should  be  served  with  it. 

ENGLISH    GREEN    GOOSE. 

Green  goose,  from  four  to  six  months  old,  is  dressed  in  the  same  way  as  roast  duck,  and 
similarly  backed  with  plenty  of  green  peas.  The  giblets  afford  a  nice  variety.  Foreign  cooks, 
however,  esteem  turkey  giblets  much  more  highly  than  those  from  the  goose  ;  they  use  the 
pinions  for  garnishing  several  made  dishes,  including  those  of  fish.  We  cannot  agree  with 
their  estimate.  Goose  giblets  contain  more  flavor,  fat,  and  gelatine.  After  sufficient 
stewing  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  perhaps  a  little  onion  if  liked,  they  are  ready  to  be  con- 
verted into  soup,  a  pie,  or  a  ragout.  The  best  giblets  of  all,  we  hold,  are  those  of  the 
cygnet ;  unfortunately  they  are  not  to  be  had  every  day. 


GAME. 

The  game  is  up. 

CYMBELINE. 

CORRESPONDENT  calls  our  attention  to  the  large  quantities  of  diseased  game  which  are  constantly 
sent  to  this  market.  There  is  no  doubt  that  the  complaint  is  well  founded.  Even  when  the  game  is 
in  a  sound  condition  when  it  arrives  here,  the  absence  of  all  proper  care  of  it  soon  turns  it  into  unwholesome 
food.  It  is  thrown  into  a  large  ice-house,  and  lies  there  for  weeks  together  with  meat,  vegetables, 
and  all  sorts  of  other  articles  heaped^  in  with  it.  It  becomes  sodden  with  the  damp,  half  decomposed, 
and  is  entirely  deprived  of  its  natural  flavor.  Any  of  our  readers  who  have  eaten  a  partridge  after  it  has  been 
recently  killed,  and  then  tasted  one  of  our  '  store '  partridges,  will  readily  understand  the  evils  caused  by  the 
present  system  pursued  in  our  markets.  Somewhere  near  the  first  week  of  last  December,  we  happened  to  ask 
a  dealer  whether  the  canvas-back  ducks  were  in  good  condition.  '  As  good  as  they  will  be  all  through  the 
Winter,' said  he,  with  a  peculiar  smile.  'What  do  you  mean  by  that?'  we  asked.  '  Well,' he  replied,  '  the 
fact  is  that  most  of  the  ducks  which  we  depend  on  for  the  Winter  are  here  now.  Others  will  come  along,  of 
course,  but  we  have  laid  in  the  greater  part  of  our  stock.  We  keep  them  in  the  ice-house,  and  take  them  out 
as  we  want  them.'  Now  what  resemblance  can  a  canvas-back  duck  thus  treated  have  to  the  same  bird  when  it 
has  been  carefully  kept  a  few  days — not  frozen  or  sodden  with  wet,  but  hung  up  in  a  cool  and  dry  place  after 
having  been  properly  '  drawn '  ? 

"  This  last  point  is  one  of  great  importance.  Much  of  the  game  which  is  sold  by  our  dealers  is  not  '  drawn,' 
and  consequently  is  almost  entirely  spoiled  as  an  article  of  food.  There  is  no  market  in  the  world  so  well 
supplied  with  game  throughout  the  Winter  season  as  ours,  and  it  is  a  great  shame  that  this  highly  nutritious 
and  valuable  food  should  be  ruined,  as  it  now  is,  by  the  ignorance  or  stupidity  of  those  who  deal  in  it. 

"  It  is  a  matter  of  surprise  that  our  Board  of  Health  has  so  long  permitted  the  markets  of  our  City  to  have 
undressed  fowl  and  game  exposed  for  sale  therein.  In  England,  on  the  Continent,  and  in  New  England, 
although  no  legal  enactments  forbid  such  sale,  custom  has  created  a  law  which  is  rigidly  enforced,  prohibiting 
the  sale  of  any  undressed  material  not  alive  " 

LARDED  GROUSE. 

"  Clean  and  wash  the  grouse.  Lard  the  breast  and  legs.  Run  a  small  skewer  into  the 
legs  and  through  the  tail;  tie  firmly  with  twine.  Dredge  with  salt,  and  rub  the  breast 
with  soft  butter;  then  dredge  thickly  with  flour.  Put  into  quick  oven.  If  to  be  very  rare, 
cook  twenty  minutes;  if  wished  better  done,  thirty  minutes.  If  the  birds  are  cooked  in  a 
tin-kitchen,  it  should  be  for  thirty  or  thirty-five  minutes.  When  done,  place  on  a  hot 
dish,  on  which  has  been  spread  bread  sauce.  Garnish  with  parsley.  The  grouse  may, 
instead,  be  served  on  a  hot  dish,  with  the  parsley  garnish,  and  the  sauce  and  crumbs 
served  in  separate  dishes.  The  first  method  is  the  better,  however,  as  you  get  in  the  sauce 
all  the  gravy  that  comes  from  the  birds." 

LARDED  PARTRIDGES. 
"  Cook  and  serve  the  partridges  the  same  as  grouse." 

LARDED  QUAIL. 

"Quails  are  cooked  and  served  the  same  as  grouse,  only  that  quails  cook  in  fifteen  min- 
utes. All  dry  meated  birds  are  cooked  in  this  way.  Larding  is  to  give  richness  to  a  dry 
meat  that  does  not  have  fat  enough  of  its  own;  therefore,  meats  like  goose,  duck  and 
mutton  are  not  improved  by  larding." 

106 


GAME.  107 

BROILED  QUAIL. 

"  Split  the  quail  down  the  back;  wipe  with  a  damp  towel.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper, 
rub  thickly  with  soft  butter,  and  dredge  with  flour.  Broil  ten  minutes  over  clear  coals, 
with  the  inside  toward  the  fire.  Serve  on  buttered  toast,  garnish  with  parsley.  Wood- 
cock, and  small  birds  may  be  broiled  in  the  same  manner,  and  are  delicious  and  nourishing 

for  fare  for  invalids." 

REED  BIRDS. 

"  Pick,  open,  and  wash  carefully  a  dozen  or  more;  place  them  in  the  folds  of  a  clean 
towel,  and  with  a  rolling-pin  crush  the  bones  quite  flat;  season  with  pepper  and  salt,  spread 
them  in  a  folding  gridiron,  put  them  over  a  clear  fire,  broiling  the  inside  first,  and  when  a 
light  brown  turn  the  gridiron.  Serve  on  buttered  toast,  season  with  butter  and  salt,  and 
baste  them  well  with  fresh  butter." 

SADDLE  OR  HAUNCH   OF   VENISON. 

"  Wash  it  in  warm  water  and  rub  it  with  fresh  butter  or  lard.  Cover  the  fat  with  sheets 
of  paper  two  double,  buttered,  and  tied  on  with  packthread  that  has  been  soaked  to  keep 
it  from  burning.  Or,  what  is  better,  cover  the  first  sheets  of  paper  with  a  coarse  paste  of 
flour  and  water  rolled  out  half  an  inch  thick,  then  cover  the  paste  with  the  second  sheets 
of  paper,  securing  the  whole  well  with  the  string  to  prevent  its  falling  off.  The  fire  should 
be  steady  and  strong.  Put  some  butter  into  the  dripping-pan  and  baste  the  meat  with  it 
frequently.  If  wrapped  in  paste,  it  will  not  be  done  in  less  than  five  hours.  Half  an  hour 
before  it  is  taken  up,  remove  the  coverings  carefully,  place  again  in  the  oven,  baste  it  with 
fresh  butter  and  dredge  it  very  lightly  with  flour.  Send  it  to  the  table  with  fringed  white 
paper,  wrapped  round  the  bone,  and  its  own  gravy  well  skimmed.  Serve  currant  jelly  with 
it.  As  venison  chills  immediately,  the  plates  should  be  warm.  Venison  should  never  be 
roasted  unless  very  fat.  The  shoulder  is  a  roasting  piece,  and  may  be  done  without  the 
paper  and  paste.  Venison  is  best  when  quite  fresh;  but  if  it  is  to  be  kept  a  week  before 
cooking,  wash  it  well  with  milk  and  water,  then  dry  it  thoroughly  with  cloths  till  there  is 
not  the  least  damp  remaining  on  it.  Then  mix  together  powdered  ginger  and  pepper,  and 
rub  it  well  over  every  part  of  the  meat.'1 

HOW  TO  COOK  A  LEG  OF  VENISON. 

This  recipe,  contributed  by  the  chef  S.  H.  Agneau,  was  communicated  to  him  by  the 
cook  of  the  Prince  of  Wales.  Take  a  leg  of  venison,  leave  all  the  fat  and  skin  on,  and 
rub  it  well  with  a  glass  of  good  sherry  and  brandy  mixed.  Then  sprinkle  a  few  pinches 
of  marjoram  over  it.  Take  some  coarse  Graham  flour  and  mix  it  with  water,  making  it 
into  a  good  stiff  dough.  Roll  it  out  and  envelop  the  leg  of  venison  so  as  to  seal  it  up; 
then  roast  it  on  a  spit  or  in  a  good  hot  oven  for  three  hours.  The  dough  must  be  about 
two  inches  thick.  Outside  the  dough  roll  some  paper  well  greased  to  prevent  the  dough 
from  burning.  When  done  and  ready  to  serve,  remove  the  dough.  The  aroma  from  the 
venison  will  be  something  grand,  and  the  juices  that  will  flow  from  the  first  cut  will  be 
the  sauce  that  no  epicure  will  say  nay  to. 


BEEF. 

BEEF  TO  ROAST. 

The  best  cut  of  beef  to  roast  is  the  second  and  third  ribs.  The  oven  should  be  very 
hot  when  a  roast  of  any  kind  is  first  put  in.  For  a  twelve  pound  roast,  one  pint  of  water, 
one  tablespoon  of  salt,  one  teaspoon  of  pepper.  Mix  the  salt  and  pepper  and  rub  them 
well  into  the  beef;  lay  it  in  the  dripping-pan  with  the  water,  and  roast  two  hours,  basting 
it  often.  When  the  beef  is  taken  up,  pour  the  fat  from  the  dripping-pan,  season  the 
gravy  well;  put  a  few  spoonfuls  over  the  beef,  and  serve  the  rest  in  a  gravy-boat,  thickened 
if  preferred  with  browned  flour. 

COLD  ROAST  BEEF,  BROILED. 

Cut  rare  roast  beef  in  slices  half  an  inch  thick,  lay  them  for  half  an  hour  on  a  plate  con- 
taining enough  salad  oil  and  vinegar  to  moisten  the  beef,  allowing  one  tablespoon  of  vine- 
gar to  three  of  oil  ;  dust  the  meat  with  pepper ;  turn  the  slices  at  the  end  of  a  half  hour, 
and  in  an  hour  broil  them  over  a  hot  fire;  do  not  wipe  off  the  oil  and  vinegar  before  broil- 
ing the  beef;  broil  the  beef  very  quickly  at  a  hot  fire,  and  serve  it  at  once;  a  little  butter, 
salt  and  pepper  can  be  used  to  season  the  broiled  beef,  and  it  may  be  garnished, 
if  desired,  with  lemon,  parsley  or  watercress,  or  served  with  a  dish  of  sliced  fresh  toma- 
toes or  cucumbers.  Freshly-grated  horse-radish,  dressed  with  vinegar  and  salt,  is  excel- 
lent with  roast  beef,  either  hot  or  cold. 

R.  CORNED     BEEF. 

What  is  generally  termed  the  horseshoe,  which  is  the  cut  next  to  the  round  steak,  is  ex- 
cellent corned.  It  should  remain  in  the  pickle  three  days  and  nights,  and  no  longer. 
Boil  till  perfectly  tender,  then  let  it  stand  in  the  water  in  which  it  was  boiled  till  cold,  or 
nearly  so.  If  it  is  desirable  to  eat  it  warm  when  first  cooked,  what  remains  can  be  returned 
to  the  kettle.  One  can  usually  buy  the  meat  and  have  it  corned  to  order,  where  he  is  in 
the  habit  of  buying  regularly.  Meats  are  usually  kept  in  the  brine  too  long,  and  after- 
wards not  thoroughly  cooked,  and  for  both  these  reasons,  corned  beef  is  often  hard,  dry 
and  unpalatable.  It  requires  five  to  six  hours  to  boil  corned  beef.  If  boiled  gently  for 
this  length  of  time,  it  will  be  very  tender,  have  a  fine  flavor,  and  cut  easily  and  smoothly. 

R.  THE    HORSESHOE. 

This  cut  of  beef  previously  spoken  of  as  being  good  corned,  is  also  good  boiled  fresh, 
either  with  water  to  cover  it,  in  which  case  the  broth  is  excellent  for  either  soup  or  gravy; 
or  it  can  be  boiled  with  just  water  enough  in  the  bottom  of  the  kettle  to  keep  it  from  burn- 
ing ;  keep  it  tightly  covered.  In  either  case  it  is  good  hot  or  cold;  but  it  must  be  boiled 

1 08 


BEEF.  109 

till  perfectly  tender,  fully  three  and  a  half  hours.  If  much  broth  is  desired,  especially  for 
soup,  the  meat,  or  a  part  of  it  can  be  cut  in  small  pieces,  and  if  taken  out  as  soon  as  done, 
these  pieces  will  make  good  hash  or  hash-cakes  for  breakfast.  An  excellent  stew  can  also 
be  made  by  using  a  little  macaroni,  rice,  two  or  three  potatoes  sliced,  a  small  onion 
cut  in  very  small  pieces,  with  plenty  of  the  broth,  and  what  part  of  the  meat  is  required. 
Dumplings,  or  toasted  bread  or  crackers  used  with  the  stew  are  excellent. 

BROILED.  BEEFSTEAK. 

The  first  requirement  is  not  so  much  a  tender  and  juicy  steak,  though  this  is  always 
desirable,  but  a  glowing  bed  of  coals,  a  wire  gridiron, — a  stout  one,  with  good-sized  wires, 
and  double,  so  that  you  can  turn  the  steak  without  touching  it.  The  steak  should  be 
pounded  only  in  extreme  cases,  when  it  is  cut  too  thick  and  is  "  stringy."  Attempt  noth- 
ing else  when  cooking  the  steak  ;  have  everything  else  ready  for  the  table  ;  the  potatoes 
and  vegetables  dished  and  in  the  warming-closet.  From  four  minutes  onward  is  needed  to 
cook  the  steak.  The  time  must  depend  on  the  size,  and  you  can  easily  tell  by  the  color 
of  the  gravy  which  runs  from  the  steak,  when  gently  pressed  with  a  knife,  as  to  its  condi- 
tion. If  the  master  of  the  house  like  it "  rare  done,"  it  will  be  safe  to  infer  that  it  is  done 
enough  for  him,  when  there  is  a  suspicion  of  brown  gravy  with  the  red  ;  if,  as  is  generally 
the  case,  the  next  stage  is  the  favorite  one,  remove  the  steak  from  the  gridiron  the  instant 
the  gravy  is  of  a  light  brown.  Remove  it  to  a  platter,  pepper  and  salt  to  suit  your  taste, 
put  on  small  lumps  of  butter,  and  then  for  two  brief  moments,  cover  it  with  a  hot  plate, 
the  two  moments  being  sufficient  to  carry  it  to  the  table.  One  absolutely  essential  factor 
in  the  preparation  of  good  beefsteak  is  that  it  must  be  served  at  once. 

BROILED  ROUND  OF  BEEF. 

Use  a  tender  round-steak  cut  an  inch  and  a  half  thick,  cut  it  in  strips  an  inch  and  a 
half  square  and  about  four  inches  long;  dip  the  strips  in  melted  butter  seasoned  with  salt 
and  pepper,  put  them  between  the  bars  of  a  double  wire  gridiron,  and  quickly  broil  them 
over  a  very  hot  fire  ;  when  they  are  done  put  them  on  a  hot  dish,  pour  the  remainder  of 
the  melted  butter  and  seasoning  over  them,  and  serve  them  hot  at  once. 

STEWED  ROUND  STEAK. 

Have  two  pounds  from  the  round  of  beef  cut  in  steaks  about  an  inch  thick  and  three 
inches  square;  put  them  over  the  fire  in  a  hot  frying-pan,  and  quickly  brown  them;  when  the 
steaks  are  brown,  if  there  is  no  fat  on  them,  add  to  them  a  heaping  tablespoon  of  good 
drippings  or  butter,  a  can  of  tomatoes,  or  a  quart  of  fresh  tomatoes  peeled  and  sliced,  and 
a  palatable  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper  ;  cover  the  frying-pan,  and  gently  stew  the  steaks 
until  they  are  cooked  to  the  desired  degree ;  then  dish  them  on  the  tomatoes,  and  serve 
them  with  plain  boiled  or  baked  potatoes.  This  dish  may  be  varied  by  boiling  and  mash- 
ing a  quart  of  potatoes,  seasoning  them  with  salt,  pepper  and  butter,  and  then  forming 
with  them  a  border,  inside  of  which  the  steaks  and  tomatoes  may  be  served. 


no  HOME    DISSERTATIONS. 

BEEFSTEAK    ROLLS. 

Use  a  tender  round  steak  cut  an  inch  thick;  remove  all  gristle;  lay  the  pieces  of  beef- 
steak on  the  table,  sprinkle  over  the  surface  of  the  meat  a  light  seasoning  of  salt  and  pep- 
per, and  either  chopped  fresh  celery  or  celery  salt;  cut  rather  thin  slices  of  the  soft  part  of 
bread  about  half  an  inch  thick,  butter  the  bread,  lay  it  on  the  meat,  put  very  little  pow- 
dered cloves  over,  roll  up  the  bread  and  meat  together  fastening  the  rolls  with  a  string, 
cover  them  with  flour  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper,  put  them  into  a  saucepan  containing 
enough  hot  water  to  prevent  their  burning,  and  brown  them;  cover  them  with  hot  water, 
add  a  light  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper,  and  stew  them  gently  until  the  meat  is  tender. 
After  the  rolls  are  done,  remove  the  strings,  and  serve  them  on  a  dish,  with  some  of  the 
gravy  poured  over  them,  sending  to  the  table  with  them  a  dish  of  plain  boiled  potatoes. 

HASH. 

Chop  the  cooked  meat  and  twice  as  much  potatoes,  cold,  in  separate  bowls.  Put  a  little 
water,  boiling,  and  a  bit  of  butter  into  an  iron  saucepan,  stewpan,  or  spider;  bring  to  a 
boil.  Then  put  in  the  meat  and  potatoes,  well  salted  and  peppered.  Add  other  vegeta- 
bles, if  desired.  Let  it  cook  through  well,  under  cover,  stirring  occasionally,  so  that  the 
ingredients  be  evenly  distributed  and  to  keep  the  bottom  from  sticking  to  the  pan.  When 
done,  it  should  be  not  at  all  watery,  nor  yet  dry,  but  have  sufficient  adhesiveness  to  stand 
on  well-trimmed  and  buttered  toast,  on  which  it  should  be  served.  Hash  from  cold  poul- 
try can  be  made  same  way. 

BEEFSTEAK    PUDDING. 

Remove  all  pieces  of  membrane  from  half  a  pound  of  suet,  chop  it  fine,  and  mix  it  with 
a  scant  pound  of  flour,  a  teaspoon  of  salt,  half  a  saltspoon  of  pepper,  and  enough  cold 
water  to  form  a  dough  stiff  enough  to  roll  out  about  three-quarters  of  an  inch  thick;  cut 
two  pounds  of  round  steak  in  inch  pieces,  and  season  it  with  pepper  and  salt;  thickly 
butter  a  two-quart  earthen  bowl  ;  lay  the  suet  crust  in  the  bowl,  gently  pressing  it 
against  the  sides  and  leaving  the  crust  hanging  over  the  sides  of  the  bowl;  put  in 
the  beef,  and  a  gill  of  cold  water;  draw  the  crust  up  over  the  meat,  wetting  the  edges 
to  close  them,  so  that  the  gravy  cannot  escape  while  the  pudding  is  being  cooked; 
care  must  be  taken  to  close  the  crust  securely,  for  the  excellence  of  the  pudding 
depends  upon  retaining  the  gravy;  when  the  crust  is  perfectly  closed  over  the  meat 
wet  a  cloth  in  hot  water,  dust  it  with  flour,  lay  it  over  the  top  of  the  pudding,  lift  the 
bowl,  gather  the  edges  of  the  cloth  under  the  bottom  of  the  bowl  and  tie  them  with  a  cord, 
so  that  the  water  cannot  penetrate  while  the  pudding  is  being  boiled;  have  ready  over  the 
fire  a  large  pot  of  actually  boiling  water,  put  in  the  bowl  containing  the  pudding  and  boil 
it  steadily  for  three  hours;  then  remove  the  cloth,  turn  the  pudding  from  the  bowl  upon  a 
hot  platter,  without  breaking  the  crust,  and  serve  it  hot;  as  it  is  cut,  a  rich  gravy  will  flow 
from  it,  which  is  to  be  served  on  each  plate  with  a  portion  of  the  pudding. 


BEEF. 
MUGWUMP  IN  A  HOLE. 


in 


One  of  the  F.  F.  V.'s  thus  describes  a  Mugwump  : 
In  the  existence  and  development  of  what  eventually 
becomes  a  bullfrog  there  is  a  state  of  animal  life  after 
he  ceases  to  be  a  tadpole  and  before  he  becomes  a  bull- 
frog. At  this  stage  of  his  existence  he  is  called  by  the 
boys  of  Virginia  and  the  South  a  "  mugwump,"  viz., 
neither  one  thing  nor  the  other. 

Mugwump  in  a  hole  is  prepared  in  the 
same  way  as  the  English  dish,  "  Toad  in  a 
hole."  One  pound  of  fat  meat,  perhaps  with 
plenty  of  bone  ;  beef  is  best,  veal  second  best. 

One  pint  of  milk,  one  cup  of  flour,  one  egg,  and  salt  and  pepper.  Beat  the  egg  very 
lightly,  add  the  milk,  and  a  teaspoon  of  salt ;  pour  this  upon  the  flour  very  gradually, 
beating  very  light  and  smooth.  Butter  a  two- quart  dish,  and  in  it  put  the  meat  ;  season 
well,  and  pour  over  it  the  batter  ;  bake  an  hour  in  a  moderate  oven.  The  mugwump,  or 
bit  of  meat  can  be  taken  out  of  the  hole  and  served  on  a  separate  dish,  accompanied  by 
vegetables,  and  the  hole  itself. 

This  is  a  good  way  of  getting  all  that  is  to  be  had  out  of  an  underdone  joint  of  cold 
meat,  especially  if  fat  enough. 

FRIZZLED  BEEF. 

Chip  dried  beef  fine,  pour  boiling  water  over  it,  and  let  it  stand  a  moment;  pour  off  the 
water,  add  butter,  and  fry  until  it  curls  a  little;  then  serve  hot  with  a  little  pepper.  If 
liked,  a  few  eggs  may  be  stirred  in  just  before  serving. 


DRIED  BEEF  DRESSED  WITH  CREAM. 

Chip  the  beef  thin  and  fine;  measure  a  pint  of  it  without  pressing  down;  put  it  in  a 
saucepan  and  pour  cold  water  over  it;  let  it  heat  slowly,  and  let  it  simmer  a  moment  if 
very  salt;  then  drain  off  the  water,  and  add  one  and  a  half  gills  of  rich  cream,  and  season 
with  pepper.  Instead  of  cream,  the  same  measure  of  milk  may  be  used  with  an  ounce  of 
butter  and  a  teaspoon  of  flour.  It  is  excellent  laid  on  split  crackers  or  toast,  but  for 
this  way  it  requires  more  dressing. 

BEEF  SAUSAGES. 

Mince  six  pounds  of  rump  beef  and  two  pounds  of  bacon  very  fine;  pound  them;  mix 
well  with  six  or  eight  cloves  of  garlic;  season  high  with  spices;  fill  into  very  large  skins, 
tie  them  in  nine  inch  lengths,  hang  them  in  a  dry,  warm  place  or  in  the  smoke.  They  are 
eaten  raw  or  broiled. 


VEAL. 

ROAST   FILLET   OF  VEAL. 

Take  out  the  bone,  and  fill  the  cavity  with  stuffing  of  bread-crumbs,  seasoned  with  salt 
pork  chopped  very  fine,  pepper,  salt  and  sweet  marjoram  ;  make  deep  incisions  in  the  veal, 
and  fill  them  with  the  stuffing,  or  press  into  each  a  strip  of  salt  pork.  If  a  larding-needle 
is  at  hand,  strips  of  salt  pork  may  be  drawn  through  the  veal  without  previous  cutting. 
'Bind  it  closely  together  with  twine  ;  put  it  in  the  oven  with  a  little  water  in  the  pan,  baste 
jOften,  and  roast  until  thoroughly  done,  remembering  that  no  one  likes  rare  veal.  When 
the  veal  is  cooked  make  the  gravy  in  the  dripping  pan,  after  pouring  off  the  fat ;  add  broth 
or  water,  if  necessary  ;  season  to  the  taste  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  thicken  with  browned 
flour. 

VEAL   CUTLETS. 

Cut  the  veal  from  the  round  in  slices  about  an  inch  thick  ;  put  it  in  a  frying-pan  and 
half  cover  it  with  boiling  water  ;  cover  the  pan  closely  and  let  it  simmer  ten  minutes,  take 
it  out  and  when  well  drained  dip  the  pieces  in  the  beaten  yolk  of  egg  seasoned  with  pep- 
per, salt,  grated  lemon-peel,  and  a  little  nutmeg,  then  in  grated  bread,  and  fry  them  in 
butter  and  lard.  When  cooked  take  them  from  the  pan,  pour  out  nearly  all  the  fat,  add 
hot  water  (half  a  pint  for  an  ordinary  dish),  thicken  with  two  tablespoons  of  flour  and  sea- 
son it,  adding  a  little  lemon  juice.  Pour  the  gravy  over  the  veal,  and  garnish  the  dish 
with  sliced  lemon.  The  lemon  and  nutmeg  may  be  omitted  if  preferred. 

SHOULDER  OF  VEAL  STUFFED. 

Remove  the  bone  from  a  shoulder  of  veal  without  cutting  through  the  outer  skin,  and 
replace  the  bone  with  bread-crumbs,  chopped  thyme  and  parsley  ;  a  little  nutmeg  together 
with  some  butter  and  beef  suet ;  moisten  with  milk  or  hot  water  and  bind  with  a  beaten 
egg ;  add  a  few  slips  of  fat  pork  or  ham  and  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper  ;  sew  and 
truss  the  shoulder  in  shape,  put  it  into  a  baking-pan  with  the  bones  under  it,  and  brown 
fit  quickly  in  a  hot  oven  ;  after  the  veal  is  brown,  season  it  with  salt  and  pepper,  dredge  it 
with  flour,  and  baste  it  with  the  drippings  in  the  pan  ;  bake  the  veal  about  twenty  minutes 
to  each  pound,  or  until  the  gravy  which  runs  from  it  shows  a  trace  of  red  color  ;  an  hour 
before  the  veal  is  done  peel  a  dozen  or  more  medium-size  potatoes,  and  put  them  into  the 
pan  with  the  meat  ;  turn  them  occasionally  to  insure  equal  cooking,  and,  when  the  veal  is 
done,  arrange  them  around  it  on  a  hot  platter  ;  make  a  gravy  for  the  veal  by  using  the 
drippings  in  the  baking-pan  ;  after  the  meat  is  taken  up  set  the  pan  over  the  fire,  stir  into 
it  a  heaping  tablespoon  of  flour  and  brown  it,  then  stir  in  gradually  a  pint  of  boiling  water 
and  a  palatable  seasoning  of  salt. 

112 


VEAL.  113 


VEAL  PIE. 

"  Weal  pie,"  said  Mr.  Weller,  soliloquizing,  as  he  arranged  the  eatables  on  the 
grass.  "  Werry  good  thing  is  weal  pie,  when  you  know  the  lady  as  made  it,  and  is 
quite  sure  it  an't  kittens  ;  and  arter  all  though,  where's  the  odds,  when  they're  so 
like  weal  that  the  piemen  themselves  don't  know  the  difference." — DICKENS. 

Make  an  inch  paste,  roll  out  an  inch  thick  and  cut  an  oval  piece  for  the  bottom  crust, 
then  cut  a  ring  an  inch  thick  and  a  half  inch  broad,  lay  it  around  the  edge  of  the  bottom 
piece,  put  it  in  a  pan  and  bake  it  a  nice  brown;  also,  cut  a  lid  to  fit  in  the  ring  and  bake 
that;  keep  it  hot  until  you  are  ready  to  fill  it;  cut  the  veal  into  small  pieces  and  put  it 
in  a  saucepan  with  half  a  pint  of  water;  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  butter,  dredge  in  a 
little  flour  and  pour  in  two  tablespoons  of  cream;  let  it  boil  up  once  or  twice,  then  fill 
the  crust  and  cover  with  the  lid.  Serve  at  once. 


VEAL  LOAF. 

Use  about  three  pounds  of  cold  veal,  weighed  after  it  is  freed  from  bones  and  tough 
gristle;  chop  it  quite  fine;  chop  fine  also  a  cup  of  canned  mushrooms,  or  half  a  dozen  fresh 
ones  of  medium  size  which  have  been  carefully  trimmed  and  washed  in  cold  salted  water; 
to  the  veal  and  mushrooms  add  two  cups  of  finely  powdered  crackers  or  fine  bread-crumbs, 
three  raw  eggs,  a  level  tablespoon  of  butter  softened  with  gentle  heat,  and  a  rather  high 
seasoning  of  salt,  pepper  and  cayenne;  mix  all  these  ingredients  together  with  the  hands 
until  they  can  be  molded  into  the  form  of  one  or  more  loaves;  put  the  loaves  into  a  but- 
tered baking-pan,  dust  cracker  or  bread-crumbs  over  the  top,  and  then  quickly  brown  the 
loaves  in  a  hot  oven  and  serve  them  hot.  When  the  loaves  are  designed  for  a  coid 
luncheon  or  supper  dish,  the  above  named  ingredients  can  be  closely  packed  into  buttered 
pans  or  molds,  and  baked,  and  then  cooled  in  the  molds;  they  can  be  sliced  after  they  are 
cooled,  or  served  whole  and  sliced  at  the  table. 


CALF'S  HEAD  BOILED. 

Your  butcher  will  clean  the  head;  cut  off  the  ears  and  dig  out  the  eyes;  boil  head  until 
it  falls  to  pieces;  separate  the  meat  from  the  bones;  lay  the  brains  in  a  dish  and  return 
the  remainder  to  water  in  which  the  head  was  boiled,  and  let  it  cook  four  hours;  do  not 
allow  the  water  to  get  too  low;  spice  it  highly  with  pepper,  salt,  allspice,  cloves,  mace; 
when  done,  thicken  with  a  little  batter  and  lump  of  butter;  remove  from  the  fire,  and  when 
tne  steam  evaporates,  add  one  half  pint  of  wine;  take  up  in  a  deep  dish  and  garnish  with 
sliced  lemon  and  hard-boiled  eggs. 


TM  HOME    DISSERTATIONS. 

BOILED  PUDDINGS  WITH  MEATS. 

.f  think  it  is  a  pity  we  do  not  have  more  English  puddings  with  our  dinners.  The  Nor- 
folk dumpling  is  excellent,  eaten  with  the  meat;  so  is  the  Yorkshire  pudding  baked 
under  the  meat;  and  the  English  apple-pudding. 

ENGLISH  APPLE  PUDDING. 

Make  a  crust  of  one-third  chopped  suet;  two-thirds  flour;  salt  well;  mix  with  cold  water; 
roll  out  to  about  three-quarters  of  an  inch  thick;  butter  a  pudding  bowl  (one  with  a  thick 
rim);  spread  the  dough  over  it,  and  knead  into  place  with  the  hands  till  it  is  about  evenly 
thin  all  over;  fill  full  of  sliced  apples,  sugar,  and  a  little  nutmeg  and  cinnamon.  Trim  the 
crust  round  the  edge  of  the  bowl,  and  roll  all  that  is  left,  and  lay  over  the  top,  making  it 
quite  secure  round  the  edges.  Now  spread  the  pudding-cloth  over  the  top,  and  tie  it 
tightly  down  under  the  rim  of  the  bowl;  catch  up  the  corners,  fold  over  the  top  of  the 
pudding,  and  secure  with  a  pin;  plunge  it  into  boiling  water  and  cook  steadily  one  and  a 
half  hours. 

YORKSHIRE  PUDDING. 

Yorkshire  pudding  is  made  the  same  way,  but  cooked  differently.  Remove  your  roast 
when  nearly  done  from  the  oven;  pour  the  gravy  from  the  dripping  tin  into  a  saucepan, 
and  pour  the  batter  in  the  pan;  set  in  your  meat  stand,  and  place  the  meat  so  it  will  drip 
on  the  pudding;  twenty  minutes  ought  to  cook  it.  Must  have  a  good  hot  oven. 

BOILED  INDIAN  DUMPLING. 

Three  cups  meal  scalded  with  one  quart  milk;  three  eggs;  salt;  boil  in  a  cloth  ;y;;e 
hour.  Good  with  roasts. 

NORFOLK  DUMPLINGS. 

Norfolk  dumplings  are  made  in  this  way:  One  quart  of  milk;  four  eggs  well  beat.;'.:; 
sifted  flour,  enough  to  make  rather  a  thick  batter,  and  salt.  Dip  the  pudding  cloth  hi 
boiling  water,  and  spread  it  over  a  large  bowl;  dust  the  hot  cloth  with  flour,  and  pour  the 
batter  in;  tie  securely,  and  plunge  into  a  pot  of  boiling  water;  boil  one  and  one-fourth 
hours;  dish  it  up  after  everything  else  is  ready,  and  eat  with  the  meat.  In  some  parts  of 
England  this  pudding  is  served  first  with  the  meat  gravy,  before  the  joint  is  brought  to 
the  table.  However,  it  is  good  no  matter  when  you  serve  it.  But  in  cooking  all  boiled 
puddings,  observe  this  rule:  Keep  it  well  covered  with  water,  and  never  allow  it  to  get  off 

the  boil. 

BOILED  RICE. 

Rice,  too,  is  excellent  for  the  children,  prepared  this  way:  Tie  the  rice  in  a  strong  cloth 
loosely,  and  boil  in  salted  water  one  and  one-half  hours;  when  cooked,  it  will  be  firm 
enough  to  cut  with  a  knife.  To  be  eaten  with  the  meat. 


VEAL.  115 

SWEETBREADS. 

Tell  me  where  is  fancy  bred, 
Or  in  the  heart  or  in  the  head  ? 

MERCHANT  OF  VENICE. 

"  Sweetbreads  are  found  in  calves  and  lambs  near  the  throat  or  the  heart.  All  the  tough  skin  should  be 
carefully  pulled  off,  and  the  sweetbreads  should  be  allowed  to  lie  in  cold  water  for  ten  minutes.  They  should 
afterwards  be  boiled  twenty  minutes  no  matter  what  the  subsequent  mode  of  cooking  is  to  be.  This  makes 
them  whiter,  thicker  and  firmer. 

TO  LARD  AND  BAKE  SWEETBREADS. 

Through  each  draw  four  pieces  of  pork  about  the  size  of  a  match.  Let  the  sweetbreads 
lie  in  cold  water  five  or  more  minutes  and  boil  them  twenty  minutes,  after  which  spread 
them  with  butter,  dredge  them  with  pepper,  salt  and  flour,  and  bake  twenty  minutes  in  a 
quick  oven. 

BROILED  SWEETBREADS. 

Split  the  sweetbreads,"  season  with  pepper  and  salt,  rub  with  butter  and  sprinkle  with 
flour.  Broil  over  a  quick  fire  twenty  minutes. 

HOW   TO   CLEAN   TRIPE. 

The  tripe  marketed  in  cities  is  already  cleaned  and  boiled,  and  only  needs  to  be  scalded 
with  boiling  water  and  scraped  with  the  back  of  a  knife  before  finally  dressing  it  for  the 
table.  But  in  the  country  it  may  sometimes  be  necessary  for  the  housewife  to  understand 
the  entire  process  of  preparing  it  for  cooking.  Tripe  consists  of  the  walls  and  fatty  por- 
tions of  the  stomachs  of  calves  and  cows,  carefully  cleansed  and  partly  cooked  by  boiling. 
It  is  cleaned  both  with  lime-water  and  with  lye  made  from  wood  ashes.  When  lime  is 
used  it  should  be  mixed  with  sufficient  cold  water  to  make  it  entirely  liquid.  After  the 
stomach  is  emptied  it  should  be  sewed  up  so  that  no  lime  can  penetrate  it,  and  allowed  to 
remain  in  the  lime-water  for  half  an  hour  before  scraping  it.  The  lime  must  be  washed  off} 
or  it  will  burn  the  hands.  When  ashes  are  used  the  stomach  is  to  be  thickly  sprinkled  with 
them  after  it  is  emptied,  and  washed  in  plenty  of  cold  water,  and  it  is  put  into  a  jar  or 
firkin  with  enough  boiling  water  to  cover  it,  and  remains  in  the  lye  thus  formed  for  five 
or  six  hours  before  it  is  scraped.  When  neither  lime  nor  ashes  are  available,  the  tripe 
must  be  repeatedly  scalded  with  boiling  salted  water,  and  scraped  until  it  is  clear  ;  after 
that  it  must  be  laid  in  cold  salted  water  for  a  week,  the  water  being  changed  every  day. 
In  treating  the  tripe  with  lime-water  or  lye,  the  dark  surface  can  be  removed  by  several 
scaldings  and  scrapings  ;  the  tripe  should  then  be  left  in  salted  cold  water  for  twenty-four 
hours  ;  after  that  it  will  be  ready  to  be  washed  in  fresh  water  and  boiled  in  salted  boiling 
water  until  it  begins  to  look  clear,  and  is  tender  enough  to  permit  a  broomstraw  to  be  run 
through  it.  After  tripe  has  been  boiled  it  can  be  kept  in  an  earthen  jar,  covered  with 
milk  and  water  in  equally  mixed,  with  sour  milk  or  buttermilk,  or  with  vinegar  which  has 
been  scalded  with  plenty  of  spice,  and  poured  upon  the  tripe  while  hot. 


n6  HOME    DISSERTATIONS. 

* 

The  tripe  bought  already  prepared  should  be  well  washed  in  plenty  of  cold  salted  water, 
and  then  boiled  until  tender  in  salted  boiling  water  ;  after  that  it  can  be  pickled  in  scalding 
hot  spiced  vinegar,  or  kept  in  milk  or  buttermilk  for  several  days  ;  there  are  many  ways  of 
cooking  tripe,  and  as  it  is  nutritious  and  digestible  as  well  as  cheap,  it  is  an  excellent 
winter  food  when  some  of  the  meats  most  generally  used  are  scarce  and  expensive  ;  if  it 
is  prepared  for  the  table  immediately  after  the  first  boiling,  it  will  require  rather  high 
seasoning. 

FRIED    TRIPE. 

Prepare  the  tripe  for  the  final  cooking  as  directed  in  the  recipe  for  cleaning  tripe,  and 
then  dry  it  on  a  clean  towel,  cut  it  in  pieces  about  two  inches  square,  and  roll  it  in  flour 
seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper  ;  peel  and  grate  an  onion  of  medium  size  for  two  pounds  of 
tripe,  put  it  over  the  fire  with  quarter  of  a  pound  of  lard  or  drippings,  and  heat  them  to- 
gether ;  when  the  fat  begins  to  smoke  put  in  the  tripe,  brown  it  quickly  on  both  sides  and 
then  serve  it  hot. 

MUTTON. 

BOILED  LEG  OF  MUTTON  WITH  CAPER-SAUCE. 

Sir  Andrew. — Faith,  I  can  cut  a  caper. 
Sir  Toby. — And  I  can  cut  the  mutton  to  't. 

TWELFTH  NIGHT  ;  OR,  WHAT  You  WILL. 

Cut  off  the  small  bone  at  the  end,  leaving  the  meat  to  hide  the  joint  and  lap  under  ;  put 
it  in  a  kettle  of  cold  water,  and  make  it  boil  as  soon  as  possible,  then  boil  very  slowly  but 
steadily  until  the  meat  is  cooked.  For  caper-sauce  make  drawn  butter  with  some  of  the 
boilings  ;  put  into  it  two  dessertspoons  of  capers  and  one  spoonful  of  their  vinegar.  Stir 
together,  boil  up  again,  and  pour  the  sauce  into  a  hot  gravy-boat. 

MUTTON  OR   LAMB   CHOPS. 

Trim  them  nicely  ;  broil  over  a  clear  fire  and  when  cooked  season  with  butter,  pepper,  and 
salt ;  serve  them,  slightly  lapping  one  over  the  other  in  the  form  of  an  oval,  with  the  bones 
standing  obliquely.  It  will  greatly  improve  the  appearance  by  putting  a  frill  of  white 
paper  an  inch  wide  around  the  ends  of  the  bones. 

STUFFED  LEG  OF  MUTTON. 

Take  out  the  bone  and  fill  the  cavity  with  stuffing  made  of  bread-crumbs,  seasoned  with 
pepper,  salt,  a  little  summer  savory,  two  ounces  of  salt  pork  chopped  fine,  and  a  bit  of 
butter  half  the  size  of  an  egg.  Skewer  the  ends,  sprinkle  the  mutton  with  a  tablespoon 
of  salt  and  half  a  teaspoon  of  pepper  ;  lay  it  into  the  dripping-pan  with  a  little  water, 
and  put  it  in  a  brisk  oven  ;  when  it  begins  to  roast  put  a  little  butter  over  it,  and  dredge 
it  lightly  with  flour.  Watch  it  very  closely  ;  keep  an  even  heat,  and  baste  it  thoroughly 
every  fifteen  minutes. 


MUTTON.  117 

ROAST  MUTTON. 
Precisely  like  the  preceding,  without  the  stuffing. 

ENGLISH  MUTTON  CHOPS. 

Southdown  mutton:  Trim  off  the  superfluous  fat  and  skin;  the  chops  cut  an  inch  and  a 
half  thick;  sprinkle  with  salt,  pepper  and  flour,  put  them  in  a  double  boiler.  Broil  over 
or  before  a  fire  until  one  side  is  done,  then  broil  the  other  side.  Do  not  turn  the  chops 
but  once.  The  fire  for  chops  should  not  be  as  hot  as  for  steak;  chops  can  be  seasoned 
with  salt  and  pepper,  wrapped  in  buttered  paper  and  broiled  ten  minutes  over  a  hot  fire. 

LAMB  CHOPS  SAUTES. 

"  Use  chops  from  the  loin  of  lamb  for  sautes;  have  them  cut  in  accordance  with  your 
desire  to  have  them  cooked, — three-quarters  of  an  inch  thick  for  medium  and  an  inch  for 
rather  rare;  heat  a  frying-pan;  if  the  chops  are  fat  you  don't  need  any  butter;  put  them 
in  and  brown  them  quickly,  first  on  one  side  and  then  on  the  other;  cook  as  you  like  them. 
Season  them,  after  they  are  cooked,  with  salt  and  pepper;  then,  if  they  are  not  as  good  as 
broiled  chops,  it  will  be  because  you  have  not  done  them  right.  They  are  a  great  deal 
better  than  most  broiled  chops,  because  meat  cooked  over  a  fire,  unless  care  is  used,  is 
very  apt  to  get  smoked.  On  many  accounts  it  is  absolutely  impossible  to  broil." 

LAMB  STEWED  WITH  GREEN  PEAS. 

Cut  the  scrag  or  breast  of  lamb  in  pieces  and  put  into  a  stewpan  with  just  enough  water 
to  cover  it.  Cover  it  closely  and  let  it  stew  for  twenty  minutes.  Take  off  the  scum;  add 
a  tablespoon  of  salt  and  a  quart  of  shelled  peas;  cover  and  let  them  stew  for  half  an  hour; 
mix  a  tablespoon  of  flour  and  butter  and  stir  in  and  let  it  simmer  ten  minutes;  then  serve. 
If  you  mix  the  flour  with  the  cream  it  makes  it  better.  Would  recommend  this  recipe  to 
our  friends  who  keep  bachelors'  hall.  Veal  is  good  cooked  in  the  same  way,  with  half  a 
dozen  small,  new  potatoes  added  with  peas. 

IRISH  STEW. 

About  two  pounds  of  the  neck  of  mutton,  four  onions,  six  large  potatoes,  salt,  pepper, 
three  pints  of  water  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour.  Cut  the  mutton  in  handsome 
pieces.  Put  about  half  the  fat  in  the  stew-pan,  with  the  onions,  and  stir  for  eight  or  ten 
minutes  over  a  hot  fire;  then  put  in  the  meat,  which  sprinkle  with  the  flour,  salt  and 
pepper.  Stir  ten  minutes,  and  add  the  water,  boiling.  Set  for  one  hour  where  it  will 
simmer;  then  add  the  potatoes,  peeled,  and  cut  in  quarters.  Simmer  an  hour  longer,  and 
serve.  You  can  cook  dumplings  with  this  dish,  if  you  choose.  They  are  a  great  addition 
to  all  kinds  of  stews  and  ragouts. 


PORK. 

A  DISSERTATION   UPON   ROAST  PIG. 

i  speak  not  of  your  grown  porkers — things  between  pig  and  pork — those  hobbydehoys,  but  a  young  and 
tender  suckling,  under  a  moon  old,  guiltless  as  yet  of  the  sty,  with  no  original  speck  of  the  amor  immunditia-, 
the  hereditary  failing  of  the  first  parent,  yet  manifest — his  voice  yet  not  broken,  but  something  between  a  child- 
ish treble  and  a  grumble — the  mild  forerunner,  or  prceludium  of  a  grunt.  He  must  be  roasted.  I  am  not  ignor- 
ant that  our  ancestors  ate  them  seethed  or  boiled  ;  but  what  a  sacrifice  of  the  exterior  tegument !  There  is  no 
flavor  comparable,  I  will  contend,  to  that  of  the  crisp,  tawny,  well-watched,  not  over-roasted,  crackling,  as  it  is 
•welx  called, — the  very  teeth  are  invited  to  their  share  of  the  pleasure  at  this  banquet  in  overcoming  the  coy, 
brittle  resistance, — with  the  adhesive  oleaginous — O,  call  it  not  fat !  but  an  indefinable  sweetness  growing  up 
to  it, — the  tender  blossoming  of  fat — fat  cropped  in  the  bud — taken  in  the  shoot — in  the  first  innocence — the 
cream  and  quintessence  of  the  child-pig's  yet  pure  food, — the  lean,  no  lean,  but  a  kind  of  animal  manna, — or, 
rather,  fat  and  lean  (if  it  must  be  so)  so  blended  and  running  into  each  other,  that  both  together  make  bi-t  CT.-J 
ambrosian  result,  or  common  substance.  .  .  .  His  sauce  should  be  considered.  Decidedly,  a  few  bread-crumbs 
done  up  with  his  liver  and  brains,  and  a  dash  of  mild  sage.  But  banish,  dear  Mrs.  Cook,  I  beseech  you,  the 
whole  onion  tribe.  Barbecue  your  whole  hogs  to  your  palate,  steep  them  in  shalots,  stuff  them  out  with  plan- 
tations of  the  rank  and  guilly  garlic  ;  you  cannot  poison  them,  or  make  them  stronger  than  they  are, — but 
consider,  he  is  a  weakling — a  flower. — Charles  Lamb. 

A   DELICATE    ROAST    PIG. 

Lay  a  nicely-dressed  pig  in  a  tub  of  cold  water  all  night;  in  the  morning  change  the 
water,  and  let  it  remain  until  it  is  time  to  roast  it ;  then  wipe  it  dry,  rub  the  inside  well  with 
sage,  cayenne  and  salt  mixed,  and  stuff  it  with  a  dressing  made  of  bread-crumbs,  salt  pork 
chopped  fine,  pepper,  salt,  sweet  marjoram,  and  an  egg.  It  should  be  roasted  on  a  spit  be- 
fore the  fire  ;  but,  lacking  convenience  for  this  mode,  the  pig  must  be  placed  (the  feet 
turned  under)  on  a  rack  in  the  dripping-pan  with  some  water,  in  which  are  some  sprigs  of 
sage  and  marjoram  tied  in  muslin.  Keep  it  well  floured  until  half  done  ;  then  take  it  out, 
wipe  off  the1  flour,  return  it  to  the  oven,  and  baste  well  with  butter,  repeating  this  several 
times  until  the  pig  is  roasted.  Serve  on  a  large  platter  with  a  potato  or  small  ear  of  un- 
husked  green  corn  in  its  mouth.  The  herbs  may  be  taken  from  the  dripping-pan,  the 
gravy  thickened  with  flour  and  seasoned  to  taste  with  pepper  and  salt.  Then  serve  in  a 
boat.  Allow  three  hours  for  roasting. 

BAKED   FRESH    PORK. 

If  the  skin  is  left  on  the  pork,  as  it  is  in  some  markets,  scrape  it  with  a  dull  knife,  wash 
it  thoroughly  with  a  wet  cloth,  and  score  it  in  little  squares  ;  if  the  skin  has  been  removed 
trim  oft  some  of  the  superfluous  fat ;  using  a  sharp,  thin  knife  cut  out  the  chine  or  back 
bone,  disjointing  it  from  the  ends  of  the  ribs,  so  that  the  meat  may  be  carved  with  ease  ; 

118 


PORK.  119 

CORNED  HAM,  BAKED. 

Choose  a  perfectly  sweet  corned  ham,  testing  it  by  running  a  sharp,  thin  knife-blade 
close  to  the  bone,  and  making  sure  that  the  odor  is  pleasant ;  let  the  ham  stand  over  night 
in  enough  cold  water  to  cover  it ;  in  the  morning  trim  off  all  bruised  and  torn  portions, 
inclose  the  ham  in  a  dough  made  of  rye  or  wheat  flour  and  water,  lay  it  in  a  large  pan, 
and  bake  it  in  a  moderate  oven,  half  an  hour  to  a  pound  ;  when  the  ham  is  done  remove 
the  paste,  and  the  skin,  if  this  is  desired  ;  dust  the  ham  with  cracker  or  bread  crumbs,  sea- 
soned with  salt  or  pepper,  and  quickly  brown  the  crumbs  in  a  hot  oven  ;  when  the  ham  is 
done  put  a  frill  of  white  paper  around  the  bone,  and  serve  it  hot  or  cold  ;  when  the  ham  is 
served  hot,  a  brown  gravy  or  sauce  usually  accompanies  it ;  pickles  of  any  kind,  olives,  or 
cold  slaw  are  good  with  cold  ham. 

BROILED    LIVER. 

Cut  in  slices,  dip  the  slices  first  in  butter  melted,  then  lightly  in  flour,  and  broil  eignt 
or  ten  minutes. 

PICNIC    SANDWICHES. 

Cut  thin  slices  from  a  tender,  cold  roast  leg  of  lamb.  Lay  the  slices  together  and  cut 
them  into  very  small  bits.  Lay  them  on  thin  slices  of  fresh  bread  and  butter  ;  spread  the 
corresponding  slice  with  thick  mint  sauce,  and  put  the  two  together. 

DELMONICO  RECEPTION   SANDWICHES. 

Two  pounds  of  cold,  lean,  boiled  ham,  and  one  boiled  beef  tongue  ;  chop  and  mince 
them  up  very  fine  ;  season  with  a  good  pinch  of  ground  cloves,  and  the  same  of  black 
pepper.  Work  two  pounds  of  the  very  best  butter  into  a  softish  mass,  and  blend  with  it 
half  an  ounce  of  ground  dry  mustard  or  a  dessertspoon  of  curry  powder,  and  the  minced 
ham  and  tongue,  and  work  all  together  into  a  paste.  Cut  the  bread,  which  should  be  of 
the  very  best  quality,  into  thin  slices,  spread  each  slice  liberally  with  the  meat  paste,  put 
together,  and,  with  a  sharp  knife,  cut  off  the  crusts  so  as  to  make  the  pieces  perfectly 
square,  then  cut  them  from  corner  to  corner,  crosswise,  into  four,  so  as  to  make  small 
triangular  pieces  of  each  square.  Build  these  up  on  dishes  in  fancy  pyramidical  forms. 
Turkey  or  chicken  sandwiches  can  be  made  by  taking  the  meat  of  a  cold  roast  turkey  or  a 
pair  of  roasted  chickens  and  an  equal  quantity  of  cold  boiled  beef  tongue  ;  chop  them  up 
into  very  small  pieces,  and  then  pound  them  in  a  mortar,  with  a  lump  of  butter,  to  a  paste. 
Season  this  with  a  little  cayenne  pepper  and  salt.  Spread  this  paste  on  thin  slices  of  fine 
Vienna  bread,  cut  square,  put  together,  and  cut  crosswise  into  triangles. 


SALADS. 

To  see  if  I  can  eat  grass,  or  pick  a  sallet  another  while,  which  is  not 
amiss  to  cool  a  man's  stomach  this  hot  weather.  And  I  think  this  word 
"  sallet"  was  born  to  do  me  good  :  for  many  a  time,  but  for  a  sallet, 
my  brain-pan  had  been  cleft  with  a  brown  bill  ;  for  many  a  time,  when 
I  have  been  dry,  and  bravely  marching,  it  hath  served  me  instead  of 
a  quart  pot  to  drink  in  :  and  now  the  word  "  sallet "  must  serve  me  to 
feed  on. 

SECOND  PART  OF  KING  HENRY  VI. 

CHICKEN   SALAD. 

Cold  roasted  or  boiled  chicken  free  of  skin,  fat  and  bones.  Place  on  a  board,  and  cut 
in  long,  thin  strips,  and  cut  these  into  dice.  Place  in  an  earthen  bowl;  there  should 
be  two  quarts,  and  season  with  four  tablespoons  of  vinegar,  two  of  oil,  one  teaspoon  of 
salt,  and  one-half  of  a  teaspoon  of  pepper.  Set  it  away  in  a  cold  place  for  two  or  three 
hours.  Scrape  and  wash  enough  of  the  tender  white  celery  to  make  one  quart.  Cut  this, 
with  a  sharp  knife,  in  pieces  about  half  an  inch  thick.  Put  these  in  the  ice-chest  until 
serving  time.  Make  the  mayonnaise  dressing.  Mix  the  chicken  and  celery  together,  and 
add  half  of  the  dressing.  Arrange  in  a  salad  bowl  or  on  a  flat  dish,  and  pour  the  remain- 
der of  the  dressing  over  it.  Garnish  with  white  celery  leaves  ;  or,  have  a  jelly  border,  and 
arrange  the  salad  in  this.  Half  celery  and  half  lettuce  is  often  used  for  chicken  salad.  If. 
when  the  chicken  or  fowl  is  cooked,  it  is  allowed  to  cool  in  the  water  in  which  it  is  boiled, 
it  will  be  juicier  and  tenderer  than  if  taken  from  the  water  as  soon  as  done. 

LOBSTER   SALAD. 

Cut  up  and  season  the  lobster  the  same  as  chicken,  break  the  leaves  from  a  head  of 
lettuce  one  by  one,  and  wash  them  singly  in  a  large  pan  of  cold  water.  Put  them  iu 
a  pan  of  ice-water  for  about  ten  minutes,  and  then  shake  in  a  wire  basket,  to  free  them 
of  water.  Place  them  in  the  ice-chest  until  serving  time.  When  ready  to  serve,  put  two 
or  three  leaves  together  in  the  form  of  a  shell,  and  arrange  these  shells  on  a  salad  dish. 
Mix  one-half  of  the  mayonnaise  dressing  with  the  lobster.  Put  a  tablespoon  of  this  in 
each  cluster  of  leaves.  Finish  with  a  tablespoon  of  the  dressing  on  each  spoonful  of 
lobster.  This  is  an  exceedingly  inviting  dish.  Another  method  is  to  cut  or  tear  the 
leaves  rather  coarse,  and  mix  with  the  lobster.  Garnish  the  border  of  the  dish  with  whole 
leaves.  There  should  be  two-thirds  lobster  to  one-third  lettuce. 

POTATO  SALAD. 

Peel  and  boil  one  pint  of  potatoes,  mash  them  through  a  colander,  letting  them  fall 
lightly  on  a  platter  ;  while  the  potatoes  are  being  boiled,  wash  and  shave  enough  from  a 
head  of  firm,  white  cabbage  to  fill  a  pint  bowl ;  boil  three  eggs  hard,  remove  the  shells, 

1 20 


SALADS.  12  c 

and  chop  the  eggs  fine  ;  chop  one  large  pickled  pepper  fine,  or  use  in  its  place  a  large 
pickled  cucumber  cnopped  fine  and  seasoned  highly  with  cayenne  ;  mix  together  two 
tablespoons  of  vinegar,  six  tablespoons  of  good  salad  oil,  one  level  teaspoon  of  salt,  and 
half  a  saltspoon  of  pepper  ;  when  the  potatoes  are  ready,  mix  all  the  ingredients  together 
quickly  and  lightly,  put  them  into  a  salad  bowl,  and  serve  the  salad  at  once. 

SHRIMP  SALAD. 

Peel  the  boiled  shrimps,  and  when  thoroughly  cold  arrange  them  in  a  circle  upon  leaves 
of  fresh  lettuce.  Pour  a  mayonnaise  sauce  in  the  centre,  and  serve  at  once.  Sometimes 
a  tablespoon  of  chopped  parsley  is  added  to  the  dressing  for  this  salad. 


SALAD   DRESSING. 

OIL  SALAD  DRESSING. 

Put  in  a  bowl  the  yolks  of  two  raw  eggs,  one  level  teaspoon  of  mustard,  two  tablespoons 
of  vinegar,  quarter  of  a  saltspoon  of  pepper,  and  as  much  salad  oil  as  is  required  to  make 
about  half  a  pint  of  dressing. 

EGG  SALAD  DRESSING. 

Mix  thoroughly  together,  by  beating,  four  tablespoons  of  vinegar,  one  heaping  table- 
spoon of  moist  sugar,  and  the  yolk  of  one  raw  egg. 

MAYONNAISE  DRESSING. 

A  tablespoon  mustard,  one  cup  of  sugar,  one-tenth  teaspoon  of  cayenne,  one  teaspoon  of 
salt,  the  yolks  of  three  uncooked  eggs,  the  juice  of  one-half  of  a  lemon,  one-quarter  cup  of 
vinegar,  one  pint  of  best  olive  oil,  and  one  cup  of  whipped  cream.  Beat  the  yolks  and 
dry  ingredients  until  light  and  thick.  Place  the  bowl  in  which  the  dressing  is  made  in  a 
pan  of  ice-water  during  the  beating.  Add  only  a  little  of  the  oil  at  a  time.  When  the 
dressing  becomes  so  thick  that  the  beater  turns  hard,  add  a  little  of  the  vinegar.  When 
the  last  of  the  oil  and  of  the  vinegar  has  been  added,  the  dressing  should  be  very  thick. 
Now  add  the  lemon  juice  and  whipped  cream,  and  place  on  ice  till  needed  for  use.  The 
cream  may  be  omitted  without  injury. 

FRENCH  SALAD  DRESSING. 

Mix  half  a  saltspoon  of  pepper  with  one  of  salt ;  add  three  tablespoons  of  olive  oil,  and 
one  even  tablespoon  of  onion,  scraped  fine  ;  then  one  tablespoon  of  vinegar  ;  when  well 
mixed,  pour  the  mixture  over  your  salad  and  stir  all  till  well  mingled.  The  merit  of  a 
salad  is  that  it  should  be  cool,  fresh,  and  crisp.  For  vegetables,  use  only  the  delicate 
white  stalks  of  celery,  the  small  heart  leaves  of  lettuce. 


SAUCES. 

\ 

"  It  is  a  desideratum  in  works  that  treat  de  re  culinarid,  that  we  have  no  rationale  of  sauces,  or  theory  of 
mixed  flavors  :  as  to  show  why  cabbage  is  reprehensible  with  roast  beef,  laudable  with  bacon  ;  and  why 
the  haunch  of  mutton  seeks  the  alliance  of  current  jelly,  the  shoulder  civilly  declineth  it ;  why  loin  of  veal 
(a  pretty  problem),  being  unctuous,  seeketh  the  adventitious  lubricity  of  melted  butter, — and  why  the  same  part 
in  pork,  not  more  oleaginous,  abhorreth  from  it ;  why  the  French  bean  sympathizes  with  the  flesh  of  deer  ; 
why  salt  fish  points  to  parsnip,  brawn  makes  a  dead  set  at  mustard  ;  why  salmon  (a  strong  sapor  per  se)  forti- 
fieth  its  condition  with  the  mighty  lobster-sauce,  whose  embraces  are  fatal  to  the  delicater  relish  of  the  turbot ; 
why  oysters  in  death  rise  up  against  the  contamination  of  brown  sugar,  while  they  are  posthumously  amorous 
of  vinegar  ;  why  the  sour  mango  and  the  sweet  jam  by  turns  court  and  are  accepted  by  the  compliable  mutton- 
hash, — she  not  yet  decidedly  declaring  for  either.  We  are  as  yet  but  in  the  empirical  stage  of  cookery.  We 
feed  ignorantly,  and  want  to  be  able  to  give  a  reason  of  the  relish  that  is  in  us  ;  so  that,  if  Nature  should 
furnish  us  with  a  new  meat,  or  be  prodigally  pleased  to  restore  the  phoenix,  upon  a  given  flavor,  we  might  be 
able  to  pronounce  instantly,  on  philosophical  principles,  what  the  sauce  to  it  should  be, — what  the  curious 
adjuncts." 

ANCHOVY   SAUCE. 

For  a  pint  of  anchovy  sauce  put  over  the  fire  in  a  saucepan  a  tablespoon  each  of  butter 
and  flour  and  stir  them  until  they  are  smoothly  blended  ;  then  gradually  stir  in  a  pint  of 
boiling  water  a  teaspoon  of  anchovy  paste,  quarter  of  a  saltspoon  of  pepper,  and  a  pal- 
atable seasoning  of  salt  ;  stir  the  sauce  over  the  fire  until  it  boils  and  is  perfectly  smooth, 
and  then  serve  it  in  a  sauce-bowl. 

Potted  anchovies,  or  those  packed  in  small  glass  jars,  can  be  used  instead  of  anchovy 
paste,  but  they  must  first  be  reduced  to  a  smooth  pulp  by  pounding  them  in  a  mortar,  and 
removing  all  the  bones  ;  a  larger  proportion  of  this  paste  will  be  required  for  the  sauce 
than  of  the  anchovy  paste,  which  is  put  up  in  small  blue  china  jars  ;  enough  must  be  used 
to  properly  season  and  color  the  sauce. 

APPLE    SAUCE. 

Pare,  core,  and  slice  half  a  dozen  juicy  apples,  and  cook  them  till  tender,  along  with  the 
yellow  rind  of  a  lemon,  in  an  earthenware  jar  placed  in  a  pot  of  boiling  water.  The  pot 
should  be  closely  covered,  and  care  taken  that  none  of  the  water  enters  the  jar  containing 
the  apples.  When  softened  and  perfectly  tender  remove  the  lemon  peel,  and  beat  the 
apples  to  a  smooth  pulp,  along  with  a  little  butter,  sugar,  and  a  little  grated  nutmeg. 

BECHAMEL  SAUCE. 

Chop  one  pound  of  lean  veal  and  half  a  pound  of  lean  ham  in  small  pieces,  a  half-dozen 
mushrooms,  and  one  small  onion  sliced,  two  cloves,  one  blade  of  mace,  a  pinch  of  thyme, 
and  the  same  of  sweet  marjoram,  and  two  tablespoons  of  butter ;  add  one  pint  and  a  half 

122 


SAUCES.  123 

of  white  stock  or  gravy,  and  stew  all  gently  for  an  hour  and  a  half ;  then  mix  some  of  the 
gravy  with  a  teacup  of  flour,  make  very  smooth,  and  add  to  it  a  pint  of  rich  cream.  Add 
this  to  the  sauce,  let  it  boil  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  stirring  constantly,  then  strain  and 
season  with  salt  and  pepper. 

BUTTER  A  LA  MAITRE  D'HOTEL. 

Quarter  of  a  pound  of  fresh  butter,  one  and  a  half  tablespoons  of  parsley,  chopped  fine, 
half  a  teaspoon  of  salt,  one  pinch  of  white  pepper,  and  the  juice  of  two  lemons.  Cream 
the  butter  perfectly,  beat  in  the  salt,  pepper  and  lemon  juice,  add  the  parsley,  and  serve.' 
If  preferred,  a  tablespoon  of  vinegar  and  a  tablespoon  of  mixed  mustard  may  be  added. 

CURRY   SAUCE. 

One  tablespoon  of  butter,  one  of  flour,  one  teaspoon  of  curry  powder,  one  slice  of  onion, 
one  large  cup  of  stock,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Cut  the  onion  fine,  and  fry  brown  in 
butter.  Add  the  flour  and  curry  powder.  Stir  for  one  minute,  add  the  stock,  and  season 
with  the  salt  and  pepper.  Simmer  five  minutes  ;  then  strain  and  serve.  This  sauce  can 
be  served  with  a  broil  or  saute"  of  meat  or  fish. 

CELERY  SAUCE. 

Wash  and  cut  into  inch  pieces  a  fresh  young  head  of  celery,  and  boil  it  till  tender  in 
veal  stock  or  in  milk  and  water.  Season  this  with  white  pepper,  nutmeg  and  salt,  and 
thicken  it  with  a  mixture  of  butter  and  flour.  Another  simple  celery  sauce  consists  of 
drawn  butter,  made  with  a  decoction  of  celery  seeds,  and  seasoned  as  above. 

CAPER  SAUCE. 

Caper  sauce  is  made  by  mixing  a  gill  of  capers,  with  some  of  their  pickle-vinegar,  into 
the  drawn  butter  prepared  as  follows  : 

DRAWN    BUTTER. 

' '  When  I  made  my  first  attempts  at  becoming  a  cook  it  seemed  as  if  every  recipe  for  certain  dishes  ended 
with  these  words,  '  Serve  with  drawn-butter  sauce. '  How  to  make  it  I  did  not  know,  and  I  dared  not  ask. 
I  felt  that  if  I  did,  every  older  housewife  would  regard  me  as  we  used  to  the  dull  boy  in  school  who  begged  us 
to  tell  him  how  many  eighths  there  were  in  a  whole,  and  how  we  knew.  '  Intuitive  knowledge '  of  anything 
pertaining  to  keeping  house  was  denied  me,  but  after  many  experiments  rules  were  evolved,  and  have  never 
failed  to  give  satisfaction." 

Take  two  large  tablespoons  of  butter  and  one  tablespoon  of  flour,  and  nearly  one  cup  of 
milk  ;  before  putting  in  the  milk,  mix  the  butter  and  flour  thoroughly  with  a  wooden 
spoon  ;  then  add  the  milk  or  the  same  quantity  of  water,  a  teaspoon  of  salt  and  a  little 
white  pepper.  Set  this  over  the  fire,  and  stir  it  continually  till  nearly  boiling.  This  is 
melted  butter,  or  drawn-butter,  as  it  is  called  in  the  language  of  the  kitchen  ;  being  the  basis 
of  a  number  of  sauces,  its  preparation  is  important. 


124  HOME    DISSERTATIONS. 

EGG  SAUCE. 

Two  hard-boiled  eggs  chopped  fine,  and  added  to  hot  drawn  butter.  This  is  an  excel- 
lent sauce  for  fish.  It  is  also  good  on  potatoes,  and  one  of  which  children  are  very  fond. 

HOLLANDAISE   SAUCE. 

Half  a  teacup  of  butter,  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  a  speck  of 
cayenne,  half  a  cup  of  boiling  water,  half  a  teaspoon  of  salt.  Beat  the  butter  to  a  cream  ; 
then  add  the  yolks,  one  by  one,  the  lemon  juice,  pepper  and  salt.  Place  the  bowl  in 
which  these  are  mixed  in  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water.  Beat  with  an  egg-beater  until  the 
sauce  begins  to  thicken,  it  will  take  about  a  minute,  and  add  the  boiling  water,  beating  all 
the  time.  When  like  a  soft  custard  it  is  done.  The  bowl,  if  thin,  must  be  kept  over  the 
fire  only  about  five  minutes,  provided  the  water  boils  all  the  time.  The  sauce  should  be 
poured  around  meat  or  fish  when  it  is  on  the  dish. 

LOBSTER   SAUCE. 

One  small  lobster,  four  tablespoons  of  butter,  two  of  flour,  one-fifth  of  a  tablespoon  of 
cayenne,  two  tablespoons  of  lemon  juice,  one  pint  of  boiling  water.  Cut  the  meat  into 
dice.  Pound  the  "coral"  with  one  tablespoon  of  butter.  Rub  the  remaining  flour  and 
butter  to  a  smooth  paste.  Add  the  water  and  pounded  "  coral,"  and  butter  and  flour  paste, 
and  the  seasoning  ;  simmer  five  minutes,  and  then  strain  on  the  lobster.  Boil  up  once  and 
serve. 

MINT   SAUCE. 

Fresh  young  leaves  of  mint  finely  minced  and  mixed  with  vinegar  and  sugar. 

OYSTER   SAUCE. 

Boil  half  a  pint  of  small  oysters  with  their  liquor  in  one  pint  of  water  until  the  flavor  is 
well  extracted,  then  strain,  pressing  the  juice  well  from  the  oysters  ;  put  in  a  pint  of  small 
oysters,  and  stew  until  puffed  ;  take  them  out,  skim  well,  and  make  drawn  butter  by  adding 
flour  and  butter  ;  put  back  the  oysters,  and  when  thoroughly  heated,  serve. 

PARSLEY   SAUCE. 

Boil  till  tender  a  bunch  of  well  washed  and  picked  parsley,  remove  the  larger  stalks 
mince  the  leaves  finely,  and  stir  them  into  hot  drawn  butter,  made  as  above. 

ROBERT   SAUCE. 

Two  cups  of  stock,  two  small  onions,  four  tablespoons  of  butter,  one  heaping  tablespoon 
of  flour,  one  teaspoon  of  dry  mustard,  one  of  sugar,  a  speck  of  cayenne,  two  tablespoons  of 
vinegar,  salt.  Cut  the  onions  into  dice,  and  put  on  with  the  butter.  Stir  until  they  begin 
to  color  ;  then  add  the  flour,  and  stir  until  brown.  As  soon  as  it  boils,  add  the  stock  and 
other  ingredients,  and  simmer  five  minutes.  Skim  and  serve. 


SAUCES.  125 

SAUCE  FOR  STEAK. 

Equal  parts  of  red  wine  catsup,  a  small  piece  of  butter,  a  little  pepper,  a  tablespoon  of 
shallot  vinegar;  stir  altogether  in  a  small  saucepan  on  the  fire  and  pour  it  very  hot  over 
the  steak.  It  is  also  good  with  mutton  chops. 

SAUCE  A  LA  TARTARE. 

Chop  an  onion,  two  shallots,  a  little  parsley  and  tarragon,  and  a  few  capers  very  fine; 
two  yolks  of  hard-boiled  eggs  rubbed  down  to  a  paste  with  a  tablespoon  of  water.  Mix 
all  these  well  together,  and  add  a  dessertspoon  of  tarragon  and  one  of  plain  vinegar;  beat 
it  well  with  a  wooden  spoon,  adding  by  degrees  a  spoonful  of  the  best  olive  oil  and  mus- 
tard to  your  taste.  This  is  an  excellent  sauce  with  broiled  fowl,  grouse,  or  with  cold 
meats  of  all  kinds. 

TOMATO  SAUCE. 

Put  in  a  stew-pan  a  quart  can  of  tomatoes,  two  cloves,  a  sprig  of  thyme,  two  sprigs  of 
parsley,  half  a  bay  leaf,  three  peppercorns,  three  allspice,  two  slices  of  carrot,  one  small 
onion,  and  boil  about  twenty  minutes;  then  strain  through  a  sieve.  Melt  in  another  pan 
one  and  a  half  ounce  of  butter,  and  as  it  bubbles,  sprinkle  in  half  an  ounce  flour;  stir 
till  well  cooked.  Mix  with  the  tomato  pulp,  and  it  is  ready  for  the  table. 

TARRAGON    VINEGAR. 

Fill  a  pickle  bottle  one-quarter  or  one-third  full  of  sprigs  of  tarragon,  or  merely  with  the 
leaves  picked  off  the  stalks.  Fill  the  bottle  with  good  vinegar,  and  stop  it  down  with  a 
good  cork.  Let  it  stand  a  few  days  to  make  a  cold  infusion,  and  it  is  fit  for  use.  No 
salt,  spice  or  boiling  are  needed.  The  leaves  are  so  full  of  their  peculiar  flavor  that,  after 
the  first  brewing  of  vinegar  has  been  used,  a  second  may  be  poured  over  them.  This 
simple  relish  is  exceedingly  useful  to  have  in  store. 

PICKLES. 

P.  CUCUMBER  PICKLES. 

Make  a  brine  of  one  gallon  of  water  and  one  teacup  of  fine  salt.  Pour  the  brine  hot 
over  the  cucumbers  for  nine  mornings,  then  rinse  in  cold  water,  and  scald  in  alum  water  ; 
put  them  in  vinegar  with  spices,  and  nearly  boil.  Add  peppers  and  onions  if  liked. 

CHILI  SAUCE. 

Thirty  tomatoes,  three  large  onions,  three  peppers,  one  tablespoon  allspice,  cloves,  cin- 
namon, two  nutmegs,  two  tablespoons  of  salt,  one  quart  of  vinegar,  one  cup  of  sugar. 
Chop  onions  and  peppers  very  fine,  Cook  tomatoes  some  first.  Mix  thoroughly. 


126  HOME    DISSERTATIONS. 

PICKLED   LEMONS. 

Take  eight  lemons,  thick  skins,  one-half  pound  of  fine  salt,  two  quarts  of  vinegary 
one-quarter  of  an  ounce  each  of  cloves,  nutmeg,  mace,  and  cayenne,  two  ounces  of  mus- 
tard seed,  and  a  small  onion.  Put  all  this  in  a  muslin  bag,  the  whole  to  be  put  in  a  tight, 
covered  jar.  Set  in  a  kettle  of  boiling  water  and  let  it  remain  till  the  lemons  are  tender. 
It  is  better  to  keep  them  three  months  before  using. 

MUSTARD  PICKLE. 

One  peck  of  green  tomatoes,  half  as  many  onions,  three  or  four  cauliflowers  ;  boil  until 
tender  ;  slice,  cover  with  salt,  and  drain  over  night.  Add  one  and  a  half  boxes  of  mus- 
tard, two  or  three  red  peppers  ;  cover  with  vinegar,  and  simmer  all  day. 

GRAPES  SPICED. 

Five  pounds  of  fruit,  four  pounds  of  brown  sugar,  one  pint  of  vinegar,  one  tablespoon 
cloves,  allspice,  a  little  pepper  ;  cook  slowly  three  or  four  hours. 

PICKLED  PEACHES. 

Take  as  much  vinegar  as  will  cover  the  quantity  of  peaches  you  have.  After  it  has 
boiled  sufficiently,  sweeten  it  to  your  taste  ;  put  in  your  spices,  cloves,  cinnamon,  or  mace. 
Boil  together  for  a  little  while,  then  put  in  your  peaches  ;  peeled  or  with  the  skins  on,  as 
you  prefer.  Boil  for  fifteen  minutes,  or  until  they  are  tender.  Take  them  out,  and  boil 
the  vinegar  down  until  it  is  strong  enough  to  keep  them.  Put  them  in  a  cool  place. 

PICKLED  LILY. 

Three  pecks  ripe  tomatoes,  three  pecks  green  tomatoes,  five  heads  of  cabbage,  one  dozen 
onions,  one  ripe  pepper,  one  green  pepper,  half  a  pound  of  celery,  all  chopped  fine.  Cover 
with  brine  two  days,  drain  off,  cover  with  vinegar,  three  pints  of  brown  sugar.  Scald  an 
hour  ;  add  one  cup  grated  horseradish,  two  tablespoons  white  mustard  seed,  one  tablespoon 
of  cloves,  two  tablespoons  of  allspice,  two  of  ginger,  and  one  tablespoon  of  mustard. 
Cover  close  and  put  away  for  a  month  before  using. 

TOMATO  KETCHUP. 

Boil  ripe  tomatoes  one  hour  ;  strain  through  a  sieve.  To  one  quart  of  juice  add  one 
tablespoon  cinnamon,  one  tablespoon  black  pepper,  one-half  tablespoon  cayenne,  one  table- 
spoon ground  mustard,  one-quarter  cup  salt,  two  onions  chopped  fine.  Boil  three  hours. 
Then  to  each  quart  of  juice  add  one  pint  cider  vinegar  and  boil  half  an  hour  longer. 
Bottle  hot. 


VEGETABLES. 

Whatever  advantages,  real  or  imaginary,  may  attend  the  consumption  of  raw  vegetables,  it  is  abundantly 
evident  that  peril  must  beset  the  use  of  this  description  of  food,  unless  the  articles  eaten  are  most  thoroughly 
cleansed.  Asparagus,  lettuce,  and  especially  water-cresses,  spinach,  and  all  greens  used  for  boiling  or  salads, 
-.should  be  scrupulously  washed,  and  nothing  less  than  the  most  painstaking  brushing  under  water  can  cleanse 
them.  Summer  vegetables  should  be  perfectly  fresh,  cooked  the  same  day  they  are  gathered,  if  possible. 
Look  them  over  well,  cutting  out  all  decayed  or  unripe  parts.  Lay  them  when  peeled  in  cold  water  for  some 
time  before  cooking.  Always  let  the  water  boil  before  putting  them  in.  Cook  thoroughly,  raw  vegetables  are 
neither  good  nor  fashionable.  Drain  well,  serve  hot. 

Potatoes  keep  best  buried  in  sand  or  earth.  They  should  never  be  wetted  till  they  are  washed  for  cooking. 
If  you  have  them  in  the  cellar,  see  that  they  are  well  covered  with  matting  or  old  carpet,  as  the  frost  injures 
them  greatly. 

PUREE. 

As  there  is  no  English  word  to  express  a  substance  that  has  been  rubbed  through  the  colander,  or  pounded 
to  a  pulp,  the  French  -word,  puree  is  used.  Where  cream  is  used  with  vegetables,  mu"k  slightly  thickened  with 
an  additional  bit  of  butter  may  be  substituted. 

ASPARAGUS. 

Large  full-grown  asparagus  is  the  best.  Before  you  begin  to  prepare  it  for  cooking,  set 
on  the  fire  a  pot  with  plenty  of  water,  and  sprinkle  into  it  a  spoonful  of  salt.  The 
asparagus  should  be  all  of  the  same  size,  reject  the  woody  or  lower  portions,  and  scraping 
the  white  part  which  remains.  Throw  it  into  cold  water  as  you  scrape  them.  Then  tie 
them  up  in  small  bundles  with  bass  or  tape,  as  twine  will  cut  them  to  pieces.  If  very 
young  and  fresh,  it  is  well  to  tie  them  in  a  piece  of  coarse  net  to  protect  the  top.  When  the 
water  is  boiling  fast  put  in  the  asparagus  for  twenty  or  forty  minutes,  according  to  age. 
When  it  is  nearly  done  boiling,  toast  two  or  three  slices  of  bread,  cutting  off  the  crust, 
and  dip  it  in  the  asparagus  water  in  the  pot,  butter  and  lay  in  in  a  hot  dish.  When  you 
take  up  the  asparagus,  drain,  unbind  the  bundle,  and  heap  it  upon  the  toast,  the  stocks  all 
one  way,  with  bits  of  butter  between.  Serve  with  drawn  butter. 

BURR   ARTICHOKES. 

Strip  off  the  outer  leaves,  and  cut  the  stocks  close  to  the  bottom.  Wash  well,  and  let 
tnem  lie  two  or  three  hours  in  cold  water.  Put  them  in  a  pot  of  boiling  water,  the  stock- 
ends  uppermost,  with  an  inverted  plate  upon  them  to  keep  them  down.  They  must  boil 
steadily  from  two  to  three  hours,  or  until  very  tender  ;  take  care  to  replenish  the  pot  with 
additional  boiling  water  as  it  is  wanted.  When  tender  all  through,  drain  them,  and  pla  .:e 
whole  on  a  napkin;  serve  with  drawn  butter.  In  eating  them  take  off  the  leaves  «y.e 
by  one,  dip  the  large  end  in  the  drawn  butter,  and  eat  only  the  soft,  pulpy  part. 

197 


HOME    DISSERTATIONS. 

BOSTON    BAKED  BEANS. 

"  For  many  generations  this  has  been  New  England's  Sunday  dish.  The  little  bean-pots  bustling  to  the 
bakery  Saturday  evening  and  returning  the  next  day  in  quietness  and  solemnity  for  the  Sunday  dinner,  have 
become  a  part  of  history.  So  many  associations  cluster  around  this  little  crock,  that  even  were  its  place  sup- 
plied by  a  new  invention  better  adapted  to  the  purpose,  we  could  not  abandon  it.  But  there  is  nothing  better, 
nor  so  good.  It  is  broad  and  low,  the  mouth  about  two-thirds  the  diameter  of  the  crock,  but  wide  enough  to 
admit  the  piece  of  pork,  put  in  endwise,  then  turned.  It  is  easily  covered,  which  is  a  great  advantage,  as  it  is 
highly  important  to  prevent  the  escape  of  the  steam  and  to  preserve  the  flavor  of  the  beans." 

First  obtain  a  Boston  bean-pot  and  some  small  white  beans  ;    the  small  beans  are  the 
jbest.     Pick  over  and  wash  a  quart  of  beans,  pour  over  them  a  quart  of  tepid  water,  and  let 
Jthem  soak  all  night ;  in  the  morning  take  them  out  of  the  water,  and  put  them  in  a  kettle 
jwith  two  quarts  of  water,  and  boil  half  or  three-quarters  of  an   hour,  or  until  the  skin 
begins  to  crack  ;  skim  them  out  of  the  water,  and  put  them  in  the  "  bean-pot"  ;    score  a 
pound  of  salt  pork,  part  fat  and  part  lean,  in  small  squares,  and  put  it  in  the  centre  of  the 
beans,  sinking  it  to  the  rind  ;  pour  a  quart  of  hot  water  over  it,  add  one  and  a  half  table- 
spoons of  molasses,  cover  the  pot,  and  bake  slowly  three  hours. 

LIMA    BEANS. 

Put  one  quart  of  shelled  beans  into  a  pan  of  cold  water,  and  let  them  remain  an  hour  ; 
put  them  in  boiling  water,  more  than  enough  to  cover  them  ;  when  tender  pour  off 
the  water  ;  add  two  ounces  of  butter  and  half  a  gill  of  cream  ;  season  with  pepper  and 
salt ;  let  them  simmer  a  moment,  then  serve.  All  shell  beans  may  be  cooked  in  this  way- 

STRING   BEANS. 

With  a  sharp  knife  snip  off  the  ends  into  small  pieces  about  an  inch  long,  removing  the 
strings  as  you  break  them.  Boil  them  until  tender  in  plain  salt  and  water.  When  tender 
remove  with  a  skimmer,  and  season  with  a  little  butter,  salt  and  pepper  ;  or,  after  they  are 
drained,  return  to  the  saucepan,  add  a  little  sweet  cream  or  milk,  and  heat  to  boiling. 

BOILED    BEETS. 

Wash,  but  do  not  touch  with  a  knife  before  they  are  boiled.  If  cut  while  raw,  they 
bleed  themselves  pale  in  the  hot  water.  Boil  until  tender  ;  if  full-grown,  at  least  two 
hours.  When  done  put  them  into  cold  water  for  a  moment  ;  then  rub  off  the  skins,  slice 
Around  if  large,  split  if  young,  butter  well.  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  A  good  way  is  to 
slice  them  upon  a  hot  dish,  mix  a  tablespoon  of  melted  butter,  with  four  or  five  of  vinegar, 
pepper  and  salt,  heat  to  boiling,  and  pour  over  the  beets.  The  cold  ones  left  over,  pour 
vinegar  over  them,  and  use  as  pickles. 

CARROTS. 

Wash  and  scrape  them  well.  If  large,  cut  them  in  two,  three,  or  four  pieces.  Put 
them  in  boiling  water,  with  a  little  salt  in  it.  Full-grown  carrots  will  require  three  hours 


VEGETABLES.  129 

boiling  ;  smaller  ones  two  hours,  and  young  ones  an  hour.  Try  them  with  a  fork,  and 
when  thoroughly  tender,  take  them  up  and  dry  them  in  a  cloth.  Divide  them  in  pieces 
and  split  them,  or  cut  them  in  slices.  Season  with  butter,  pepper  and  salt.  They  should 
accompany  boiled  beef  or  mutton. 

STEWED  CARROTS. 

Boil  one  and  a  quarter  pound  of  carrots.  When  tender,  slice  very  thin  in  a  saucepan, 
add  two  ounces  of  butter,  stir  two  teaspoons  of-  salt  and  a  pinch  of  cayenne  pepper  in  two 
gills  of  cream,  and  pour  it  over  the  carrots  ;  let  them  stew  fifteen  minutes  ;  then  put  them 
into  a  vegetable  dish,  and  leave  the  saucepan  with  the  cream  on  the  stove ;  when  it  boils, 
stir  in  the  well-beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs,  and  pour  over  the  carrots. 

BOILED   CAULIFLOWER. 

Pick  off  the  outside  leaves  ;  cut  the  stalk  close  to  the  flowers  ;  lay  it  in  cold  water  for 
half  an  hour  ;  if  very  large,  quarter  it ;  put  it  in  boiling  water  ;  salt  a  little  ;  cook  until 
tender  ;  drain  well ;  place  it  on  a  hot  dish  ;  pour  over  plenty  of  drawn  butter  ;  remove 
it  from  the  water  as  soon  as  it  is  done ;  serve  quickly  ;  it  darkens  while  standing. 

CABBAGE   WITH    SALT    PORK. 

Carefully  wash  a  head  of  white  cabbage,  tear  the  leaves  apart,  and  let  it  lay  for  half  an 
hour  in  plenty  of  cold  salted  water  ;  meantime  cut  a  pound  of  fat  salt  pork  in  inch  pieces, 
put  it  over  the  fire  in  two  quarts  of  cold  water,  and  let  the  water  gradually  heat  and  boil ; 
in  half  an  hour  put  in  the  cabbage,  after  cutting  it  in  rather  small  pieces,  and  boil  it 
steadily  for  half  an  hour ;  then  drain  off  the  water,  see  that  the  pork  and  cabbage  are 
palatably  seasoned,  and  serve  them  together.  An  onion  quartered,  and  put  on  top  of  the 
cabbage  while  boiling,  will  prevent  its  being  indigestible. 

HOT   SLAW. 

Mix  together  four  tablespoons  of  vinegar,  one  of  sugar,  and  the  yolk  of  one  raw  egg  ; 
add  this  dressing  to  as  much  cabbage  as  it  will  moisten,  season  the  cabbage  palatably  with 
salt  and  pepper;  put  it  over  the  fire  in  a  covered  saucepan,  and  let  it  come  to  the  boiling 
point;  when  the  cabbage  begins  to  boil  remove  it  from  the  fire,  and  serve  it  hot. 

COLD  SLAW. 

Remove  the  outer  green  leaves  from  a  firm  head  of  white  cabbage,  cut  the  cabbage 
through  the  centre,  cut  out  the  tough  stalk,  put  the  cabbage  into  a  large  pan  of  salted  cold 
water  and  let  it  stand  for  at  least  half  an  hour;  then  drain  it,  shave  it  on  a  cabbage-cutter, 
or  chop  it  rather  fine,  and  dress  it  with  any  of  the  salad  dressings  for  which  recipes  are 
given. 


130  HOME    DISSERTATIONS. 

RED  CABBAGE  AND  APPLES,  PENN.   STYLE. 

Wash  a  medium-sized  head  of  firm,  red  cabbage,  shave  it  rather  fine,  put  it  into  a  sauce- 
pan with  a  tablespoon  each  of  butter  and  sugar,  a  gill  of  vinegar  and  a  level  teaspoon  each 
of  salt,  whole  cloves  and  peppercorns;  set  the  saucepan  on  the  back  part  of  the  stove, 
where  its  contents  will  steam  gently,  and  let  it  cook;  peel,  quarter  and  core  half  a  dozen 
tart  apples,  lay  them  on  the  top  of  the  cabbage,  and  continue  the  cooking  until  the  cabbage  is 
tender;  when  the  cabbage  is  done  drain  off  the  liquid  portion,  and  make  a  sauce  by  boiling 
it  with  a  tablespoon  each  of  butter  and  flour  which  have  been  stirred  together  cold  until 
they  form  a  smooth  paste;  slip  the  cabbage  out  of  the  saucepan  upon  a  deep  dish  without 
disturbing  the  apples;  pour  the  sauce  over  them,  and  serve  the  dish  hot,  as  a  vegetable. 
The  same  kind  of  dish  can  be  prepared  with  less  danger  of  burning  by  baking  it  in  the 
oven  and  putting  the  ingredients  into  an  earthen  jar  or  disn. 

BOILED  GREEN  CORN  ON  COB. 

Choose  young  sugar  corn,  full  grown,  but  not  hard,  test  with  the  nail.  When  the  grain 
is  pierced,  the  milk  should  escape  in  a  jet,  and  not  be  thick.  Clean  by  stripping  off  the 
outer  leaves,  turn  back  the  innermost  covering  carefully,  pick  off  every  thread  of  silk,  and 
recover  the  ear  with  the  thin  husk  that  grew  nearest  it,  tie  at  the  top  with  a  bit  of  thread, 
put  into  boiling  water  salted,  and  cook  fast  from  twenty  minutes  to  a  half  ar.  hour,  in  pro- 
portion to  size  and  age.  Cut  off  the  stocks  close  to  the  cob,  and  send  whole  to  table 
wrapped  in  a  clean  napkin. 

* 

STEWED  GREEN  CORN. 

Cut  from  the  cob,  and  stew  fifteen  minutes  in  boiling  water.  Turn  off  most  of  this, 
cover  with  cold  milk,  and  stew  until  very  tender,  adding  before  you  take  it  up,  a  large 
lump  of  butter  cut  into  bits  and  rolled  in  flour.  Season  with  pepper  and  salt  to  taste,  boil 
five  minutes  and  serve. 

CELERY. 

Scrape  and  wash  well,  and  let  it  lie  in  cold  water  til}  shortly  before  it  goes  to  the  table; 
then  dry  it  in  a  cloth,  trim  it,  and  split  down  the  stocks  almost  to  the  bottom,  leaving  on  a 
few  green  leaves.  Send  it  to  the  table  in  a  celery  glass,  with  a  little  cold  water  and  bits  of 
ice.  Or  the  white  parts  may  be  chopped  fine  and  served  with  a  salad  dressing. 

CUCUMBERS. 

Pare  from  end  to  end,  and  lay  in  ice-water  an  hour.  Wipe  them  and  slice  thin  ;  put 
them  in  cold  water  well  salted  for  a  few  moments,  turn  the  water  off;  season  with  pepper, 
salt,  vinegar — and  oil,  if  you  wish — putting  some  pieces  of  ice  between  them,  add  thin  slices 
of  onions  if  desired.  Cucumbers  should  be  gathered  while  the  dew  is  upon  them,  and  eaten 
the  same  day.  Leave  them  in  a  cool  place  until  you  are  ready  to  pare  them. 


VEGETABLES.  131 

EGG  PLANT  FRIED. 

Pare  and  cut  in  slices  half  an  inch  thick;  sprinkle  with  salt;  cover,  and  let  stand  with  a 
weight  upon  them  for  an  hour.  Rinse  in  clear  cold  water;  wipe  each  slice  dry;  dip  first 
in  beaten  egg,  then  in  rolled  cracker  or  bread  crumbs,  season  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  fry 
brown  in  butter. 

STUFFED  EGG  PLANT. 

Parboil  to  take  off  their  bitterness.  Then  slit  each  one  down  the  side,  and  take  out 
the  seeds,  fill  the  cavity  with  a  stuffing  made  of  grated  bread-crumbs,  butter,  minces 
sweet  herbs,  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  and  beaten  yolk  of  egg.  Bake  and  serve  with  drawn 
butter. 

TO  BOIL  ONIONS. 

Peel  medium-sized  white  onions  and  let  them  stand  in  cold  water  one  hour;  then  put 
them  into  boiling  water,  and  boil  fifteen  minutes;  pour  out  this  water  and  put  in  more  boil- 
ing water,  and  cook  till  soft;  then  pour  off  the  water  and  put  in  a  little  milk;  season  with 
butter  and  salt,  and  let  them  cook  in  the  milk  about  five  minutes;  thicken  the  gravy  with 
a  little  flour  and  water.  This  way  of  cooking  will  take  away  the  strong  taste  of  the  onions 
and  make  them  tender  outside  as  well  as  inside. 

BAKED  ONIONS.  » 

Peel  large  onions,  and  boil  one  hour  in  plenty  of  water,  slightly  salted.  Butter  a  shallow 
dish  or  a  deep  plate,  and  arrange  the  onions  in  it.  Sprinkle  with  pepper  and  salt,  put  a 
teaspoon  of  butter  in  the  centre  of  each  onion,  and  cover  lightly  with  crumbs.  Bake  slowly 
one  hour.  Serve  with  cream  sauce. 

BOILED   PARSNIPS. 

If  young,  scrape  before  cooking.  If  old,  pare  carefully,  and  if  large,  split.  Put  into 
boiling  water,  salted,  and  boil,  if  small  and  tender,  from  half  to  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 
If  full  grown,  more  than  an  hour.  When  tender,  drain  and  slice  lengthwise,  butter  well, 
and  serve  very  hot. 

FRIED  PARSNIPS. 

Prepare  as  for  boiled  parsnips,  cut  in  thick  slices  lengthwise.  Dredge  with  flour,  dip  in 
a  batter  and  fry  in  hot  dripping  or  lard,  turning  when  one  side  is  brown.  Drain  off  every 
drop  of  fat;  pepper  and  serve  hot. 

PARSNIP  FRITTERS. 

Boil  tender,  mash  smooth  and  fine,  picking  out  the  woody  bits.  For  three  large  pars- 
nips allow  two  eggs,  one  cup  of  rich  milk,  one  tablespoon  of  butter,  one  teaspoon  of  salt, 
three  tablespoons  of  flour.  Beat  the  eggs  light,  stir  in  the  mashed  parsnips,  beating  hard, 
then  the  butter  and  flour,  next  the  milk,  lastly  the  salt.  Fry  as  fritters  or  as  griddle  cakes. 


132  HOME  DISSERTATIONS. 

GREEN  PEAS. 

Green  peas  are  unfit  for  eating  after  they  become  hard  and  yellowish;  but  they  are  better 
nearly  full  grown  than  when  very  small  and  young.  They  should  be  laid  in  cold  water  as 
soon  as  they  are  shelled.  It  will  require  about  a  half  hour  to  boil  them  soft.  When  quite 
done,  drain  them,  mix  with  them  a  piece  of  butter  and  a  little  pepper.  A  little  cream  or 
good  milk  added  after  they  are  drained  and  returned  to  the  stew-pan  and  allowed  to 
simmer  a  few  moments  is  liked  by  some.  Peas  may  be  greatly  improved  by  boiling  with 
them  two  or  three  lumps  of  loaf-sugar. 

BAKED   POTATOES. 

To  bake  potatoes  quickly,  pour  boiling  water  over  them  and  let  them  stand  a  minute  or 
so  before  putting  them  into  the  oven.  The  excellence  of  baked  potatoes  depends  upon 
eating  them  as  soon  as  done,  and  not  before.  They  are  worthless  till  cooked,  and  dry 
rapidly  so  soon  as  baked  through. 

BOILED  POTATOES. 

Water  enough  to  cover  the  potatoes  put  on  the  fire  to  boil.  Then  cut  a  ring  around  the 
potatoes  to  make  them  "  mealy,"  and  to  render  easy  the  removal  of  the  remaining  sections 
of  skin.  Put  the  potatoes  into  the  water,  when  it  begins  to  boil,  or  a  little  before,  salt 
should  be  added  liberally, — a  tablespoon  to  a  quart  or  so  of  water.  a  Let  them  boil  about 
fifteen  minutes;  the  time,  however,  depends  upon  the  size  of  the  potatoes,  and  the  season 
too,  because  later  in  the  year  potatoes  take  longer  to  boil,  as  the  fibre  is  a  little  tougher 
and  harder.  Try  them  with  a  fork.  If  it  pierces  them  easily  pour  off  the  water.  Do  not 
let  them  boil  until  they  break  open.  Cover  them  with  a  dry  towel,  and  set  the  pan  con- 
taining them  on  the  back  of  the  stove,  where  the  potatoes  will  keep  warm  without  burning, 
until  they  become  mealy,  which  will  be  in  five  or  perhaps  ten  minutes."  A  brick  should 
be  placed  on  the  stove  for  the  tin  to  rest  upon.  Potatoes  can  be  kept  hot  in  that  way  for 
a  couple  of  hours.  Peeled  potatoes  should  be  boiled  in  the  same  way.  The  best  of  the 
potato  is  just  under  the  skin;  therefore,  pare  very  thin. 

BROILED    POTATOES. 

Cut  boiled  potatoes  in  slices,  put  the  slices  on  the  gridiron  to  broil.  Have  ready  a 
heated  platter,  with  melted  butter  to  put  them  in.  Broil  quickly,  season  with  pepper  and 
salt,  and  serve  hot,  and  as  soon  after  broiling  as  possible. 

DUCHESS  POTATOES. 

Boiled  potatoes  cold,  cut  into  cubes.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  dip  in  melted 
butter  and  slightly  in  flour.  Arrange  them  on  a  baking  sheet,  and  bake  fifteen  minutes  in> 
a  quick  oven.  Serve  very  hot. 


VEGETABLES.  133 

LYONNAISE   POTATOES. 

Three  tablespoons  of  butter  put  in  a  frying-pan,  and  when  the  butter  is  melted,  a  table- 
spoon of  chopped  onion  fried  in  it  till  it  is  of  a  pale  straw-color,  then  add  a  quart  of 
cooked  potatoes,  sliced  and  thoroughly  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper.  When  they  are 
hot  a  tablespoon  of  chopped  parsely  added  and  cooked  two  minutes.  The  onions  may  be 
omitted. 

SARATOGA  POTATOES. 

Pare  the  potatoes,  slice  them  thin  as  possible  on  a  potatoe-cutter,  leave  them  for  an 
hour,  in  cold  water,  then  dry  them  in  a  towel.  Have  a  deep  kettle  of  lard  for  frying  them; 
when  it  is  hot  cover  the  surface  with  the  dried  slices,  sprinkle  a  little  salt  over  them,  turn 
them  with  a  skimmer,  and  when  done  lay  them  on  a  double  brown  paper  in  the  oven 
open.  Fry  them  all  in  this  way,  putting  them  upon  the  paper  as  they  come  from  the  lard. 
They  are  eaten  both  hot  and  cold,  for  breakfast,  lunch,  tea,  sometimes  with  a  fork,  but 
oftener  with  the  fingers. 

STEWED  POTATOES. 

Pare,  quarter,  and  soak  in  cold  water  an  hour.  Stew  in  enough  salted  water  to 
cover  them.  Before  taking  up,  and  when  they  are  breaking  to  pieces,  drain  off  the  water, 
and  pour  in  a  cup  of  milk.  Boil  three  minutes,  stirring  well;  put  in  a  lump  of  butter  the 
size  of  an  egg,  a  little  salt  and  a  pinch  of  pepper;  thicken  slightly  with  flour,  boil  up  well 
and  turn  into  a  covered  dish.  This  is  an  excellent  family  dish.  Children  are  usually  fond 
of  it,  and  it  is  very  wholesome.  Cold  boiled  potatoes  may  be  served  in  the  same  manner, 
and  are  excellent. 

ROASTED   SWEET  POTATOES. 

Sweet,  as  well  as  Irish  potatoes,  are  very  good  for  picnic  luncheon,  roasted  in  hot  ashes. 
This,  it  will  be  remembered,  was  the  dinner  General  Marion  set  before  the  British  officer 
as  "  quite  a  feast,  I  assure  you,  sir;  we  don't  often  fare  so  well  as  to  have  sweet  potatoes 
and  salt."  The  feast  was  cleansed  from  ashes  by  the  negro  orderly's  shirt-sleeve,  and 
served  upon  a  natural  trencher  of  pine  bark. 

SALSIFY   OR  OYSTER  PLANT  FRIED. 

Having  scraped  the  salsify  roots,  and  washed  them  in  cold  water,  parboil  them.  Take 
them  out,  drain  them,  cut  them  in  small  pieces  and  fry  them  in  butter. 

STEWED   SALSIFY. 

Stew  slowly  till  quite  tender,  and  then  serve  with  melted  butter.  Or  it  may  first  be 
boiled,  then  grated,  and  made  into  cakes  to  be  fried  in  butter.  Salsify  must  not  be  left 
•exposed  to  the  air,  or  it  will  turn  blackish. 


134  HOME    DISSERTATIONS. 

NEW   SPINACH  WITH  POACHED  EGGS. 

Trim  off  the  roots  and  tough  stalks  of  half  a  peck  of  new  spinach,  wash  it  in  plenty  of 
cold  salted  water  until  it  is  quite  free  from  sand,  put  it  over  the  fire  in  salted  boiling  water 
enough  to  cover  it,  and  boil  it  fast  for  three  minutes  or  longer,  until  it  is  just  tender;  do 
not  allow  it  to  become  soft  and  watery;  drain  the  spinach,  throw  it  into  a  large  pan  of 
cold  water  until  it  is  cool,  then  chop  it  very  fine,  or  rub  it  through  a  colander  with  a 
potato  masher;  put  it  again  over  the  fire  to  heat,  with  a  palatable  seasoning  of  salt  and 
pepper;  while  the  spinach  is  being  heated  poach  half  a  dozen  eggs  soft,  and  when  it  is 
dished  lay  them  upon  it,  and  serve  the  dish  hot. 

SUMMER  SQUASH  OR  CYMLINGS. 

If  the  nail  presses  easily  through  the  skin,  do  not  remove  it,  or  the  seeds,  which  should 
be  done  if  not  young  and  tender.  If  quite  small  the  cymlings  may  be  cooked  whole. 
Summer  squash  should  be  steamed  and  not  boiled,  as  it  will  be  less  watery  if  steamed. 
When  tender  mash  soft  in  a  colander;  then  put  them  in  a  stew-pan,  add  butter,  salt,  and  a 
little  cream.  When  very  hot  serve. 

BAKED  HUBBARD  SQUASH. 

Wipe  a  squash  with  a  wet  towel,  cut  it  in  two-inch  pieces,  remove  the  thin  outer  skin 
and  the  seeds,  but  not  the  soft  pulp  in  which  the  seeds  are  imbedded;  put  the  pieces  of 
squash  in  layers  in  a  buttered  earthen  dish,  seasoning  each  layer  lightly  with  salt  and 
pepper;  midway  of  the  dish,  and  on  the  upper  layer  of  squash,  put  a  tablespoon  each  of 
butter  and  sugar;  place  the  dish  in  a  hot  oven  and  bake  the  squash  for  an  hour;  serve  it 
hot,  as  a  vegetable,  in  the  dish  in  which  it  was  baked. 

WINTER  SQUASH. 

Pare  it,  take  out  the  seeds,  cut  it  in  pieces,  and  steam  it  till  quite  soft.  When  tender, 
mash  it  with  a  little  butter,  pepper  and  salt. 

SUCCOTASH. 

Ten  ears  of  green  corn,  one  pint  of  Lima  beans,  or  you  can  substitute  for  the  latter 
string  or  buttered  beans  (have  a  third  more  corn  than  beans).  Cut  the  corn  from  the  cob 
and  put  it  into  boiling  water,  stew  gently  with  the  beans  until  tender,  using  as  little  water 
as  possible;  pour  off  nearly  all  the  water,  stir  in  a  lump  of  butter,  a  teaspoon  of  flour  wet 
with  cold  water,  pepper  and  salt  to  taste.  Milk  may  be  added  if  you  choose. 

BAKED  STUFFED  TOMATOES. 

Choose  large,  uniform  size  ripe  tomatoes,  remove  the  stem,  and  with  a  sharp  knife  cut 
off  a  slice  from  the  stem  end  ;  take  out  the  core,  place  the  tomatoes  in  a  baking-dish  and 
fill  the  orifice  with  bread-crumbs  seasoned  with  butter,  salt,  pepper,  a  little  sugar,  and 


VEGETABLES.  135 

grated  onion  if  liked  ;  replace  the  tops  and  bake  in  a  slow  oven.  When  done  remove 
them  very  carefully  from  the  baking-dish  and  arrange  on  a  hot  dish;  garnish  with  sprigs 
of  parsley. 

BROILED  TOMATOES. 

Select  three  large  Florida  tomatoes;  split  each  in  two,  strew  a  little  cracker-crumbs  over 
the  cut  part,  brush  a  little  butter  over  all,  broil  over  a  slow  fire  and  serve  with  melted 
butter,  salt  and  pepper. 

STEWED  TOMATOES. 

In  stewing  tomatoes,  pour  away  the  surplus  water,  so  soon  as  they  begin  to  boil,  and 
add  a  small  piece  of  butter,  a  very  little  sugar,  pepper  and  salt ;  cook  about  fifteen  minutes, 
when  stir  in  bread-crumbs,  if  you  like  them. 

BOILED  TURNIPS  MASHED. 

Peel  and  lay  in  cold  water,  slightly  salted,  put  them  in  boiling  water,  and  boil  gently  for 
an  hour  and  a  half,  or  until  tender,  Try  them  with  a  fork,  and  when  tender,  take  them 
up,  drain  them  on  a  sieve,  and  either  send  them  to  the  table  whole  with  melted  butter,  or 
mash  them  in  the  colander  with  a  wooden  spoon  ;  stirring  in  a  little  butter  with  pepper 
and  salt  to  taste;  serve  hot.  Setting  in  the  sun  after  they  are  cooked,  or  on  a  part  of  the 
table  upon  which  the  sun  may  happen  to  shine,  will  give  to  turnips  a  singularly  unpleasant 
taste,  and  should  therefore  be  avoided.  When  turnips  are  very  young,  it  is  customary  to 
serve  stewed  whole  in  milk.  Mutton,  either  boiled  or  roasted,  should  always  be  accom- 
panied by  turnips. 

BOILED  MACARONI. 

Put  it  into  boiling  water  and  salt — enough  water  to  cover  it,  and  a  tablespoon  of  salt 
to  a  quart  of  water.  Boil  it  until  it  is  just  tender  enough  to  break  easily  between  the 
fingers  without  being  boiled  in  pieces.  Then  drain  it  and  put  it  in  cold  water,  and  keep 
it  there  just  long  enough  to  cool  it.  It  will  then  be  ready  to  dress  with  any  kind  of  sauce 
or  cheese.  Italian  macaroni  is  recommended  because  it  does  not  break  in  boi-ling,  and, 
besides,  has  a  very  mild,  pleasant  taste  and  is  more  nutritious,  since  it  is  made  of  better 
wheat  than  the  American,  German,  or  French  macaroni.  Never  wash  macaroni  before  it 
is  boiled.  If  it  is  dusty,  wipe  it  off  with  a  dry  cloth. 

MACARONI  WITH  TOMATOES. 

Boil  macaroni  in  a  little  water  with  a  piece  of  beef  until  tender.  Take  out  the  meat, 
season  the  gravy  with  salt  and  pepper  ;  thicken  with  a  little  flour,  and  add  the  tomatoes 
strained. 


136  HOME    DISSERTATIONS. 

BOILED  RICE. 

To  boil  rice  so  that  all  the  grains  will  be  separate  and  the  mass  perfectly  dry,  pick  it 
over  and  take  out  any  husks  there  may  be  in  the  rice  ;  wash  it  in  cold  water  and  drain  it, 
and  then  put  it  into  plenty  of  boiling  water  salted.  Boil  it  for  twelve  minutes  ;  then 
drain  it  and  cover  it  with  the  lid  of  the  kettle  or  a  thick  towel.  Let  it  stand  ten  or  twelve 
minutes  longer,  until  it  is  dry  and  the  grains  crack  just  a  little.  Then  it  will  be  ready 
to  use. 

RICE  CROQUETTES. 

To  half  a  pound  of  rice,  one  quart  of  milk,  one  teacup  of  sugar,  a  very  little  butter, 
yolks  of  one  or  two  eggs  beaten,  flavoring,  and  a  little  salt.  Soak  the  rice  three  or  four 
hours  in  water  ;  drain,  and  put  into  a  basin  with  the  milk  and  salt.  Set  the  basin  in  the 
steamer,  and  cook  until  thoroughly  done.  Then  stir  in  carefully  the  sugar,  the  yolks  of 
one  or  two  eggs,  very  little  butter,  and  flavor  with  extract  of  lemon  or  vanilla.  When  cool 
enough  to  handle,  form  into  small  balls  ;  press  the  thumb  into  the  centre  of  each  ;  insert 
a  little  marmalade,  or  jelly  of  any  kind,  and  close  the  rice  well  over  them.  Roll  in  the 
beaten  eggs  (sweetened  a  little)  and  bread-crumbs.  Fry  in  boiling  hot  lard. 


EGGS. 

"  An  egg  is  a  good  example  of  the  different  way  in  which  the  different  substances  which  serve  as  our  food 
are  acted  on  by  heat.  Put  it  on  the  fire  in  a  saucepan,  with  cold  water  ;  let  it  heat  gradually  and  slowly  ;  and 
you  will  find  that  the  yolk  is  set  before  the  white,  and  also  before  the  water  boils.  The  white  becomes  fixed  soon 
afterwards,  and  at  the  temperature  of  scarcely  boiling  soft-water.  You  will,  therefore,  employ  quite  a  moderate 
degree  of  heat  for  sauces  thickened  with  yolk  of  egg,  while  a  very  little  more  heat  will  serve  for  dishes  com- 
posed of  the  whites  and  yolks  together.  You  understand  why,  if  baked  custards,  rice  puddings,  and  the  like 
boil  in  their  baking-dish,  they  are  ruined,  running  into  whey  ;  why  boiled  custards  and  creams  containing  eggs 
should  be  done  in  a  bain-marie,  or  jar  immersed  in  a  saucepan  of  hot  water  ;  why  an  omelette,  left  long  enough 
in  the  pan  to  get  penetrated  by  the  heat  of  the  butter  in  which  it  is  fried,  becomes  leathery.  Quick  boiling 
converts  the  white  of  the  egg  into  something  very  like  gutta-percha,  even  though  the  yoke  is  not  yet  hard. 
Poached  eggs,  on  the  contrary,  in  which  it  is  desirable  to  set  the  white  speedily,  in  order  to  keep  them  whole 
and  shapely,  should  be  dropped  not  only  into  boiling  water,  but  into  water  hotter  than  ordinary  boiling  water, 
i.  e.,  quite  fresh  water.  Now  the  boiling  of  water  may  be  delayed  ;  that  is,  it  may  be  made  to  get  hotter 
before  it  comes  to  a  boil,  by  dissolving  in  it  any  solid  body  less  volatile  than  itself,  such  as  common  salt,  when 
eleven  or  twelve  degrees  higher  of  Fahrenheit  are  required  to  produce  ebullition.  This  is  why  plunging  fish 
into  boiling  salt  and  water  renders  it  firmer  by  suddenly  coagulating  the  albumen.  The  greater  heat  so 
obtained  also  cooks  vegetables  more  thoroughly.  And  the  same  hot  liquid  is  best  for  poaching  eggs  ;  they 
come  out  of  their  bath  with  smooth  and  clean,  instead  of  ragged  and  untidy  jackets." 

PROPER  WAY  TO  COOK  EGGS. 

Butter  a  tin  plate  and  break  in  the  eggs  ;  set  in  a  steamer  ;  place  over  a  kettle  of  boil- 
ing water  and  steam  till  the  whites  are  cooked.     They  are  more  ornamental  when  broken 


EGGS.  137 

into  patty  tins,  as  they  keep  their  form  better.  The  whites  of  the  eggs,  when  cooked  in 
this  manner,  are  tender  and  light,  and  not  tough  and  leathery,  as  if  cooked  by  any  other 
process  ;  they  can  be  eaten  by  invalids,  and  they  certainly  are  very  much  richer  than  by 
any  other  method.  If  cooked  in  the  shell,  they  taste  of  the  lime  contained  in  them  ;  and 
if  broken  into  boiling  water,  it  destroys  their  flavor. 

M.  EGG  BALLS. 

Take  the  yolks  of  six  hard-boiled  eggs,  mash  them  on  a  plate,  with  one  large  tablespoon 
of  flour  and  some  pepper  ;  when  mixed  to  a  paste,  use  enough  raw  egg  to  make  it  suffi- 
ciently moist  to  roll  into  balls  or  cakes.  Put  the  balls  in  a  dish  and  pour  over  them  some 
cream  and  butter  heated  together ;  cut  the  whites  in  rings  and  garnish  with  them. 

M.  SOFT-BOILED  EGGS. 

Wash  the  shells  clean,  put  them  in  cold  water  over  a  quick  fire  until  it  comes  to  a  boil — 
when  they  will  be  just  right  for  soft-boiled  eggs — if  desired  hard,  let  them  boil  two  or  three 
minutes  longer.  The  flavor  is  more  delicious  if  put  in  cold  water  first,  instead  of  hot  water. 
When,  boiled  in  hot  water,  it  should  be  boiling  hot — four  minutes  for  soft-boiled,  six  to 
seven  minutes  for  hard-boiled.  Eggs  cook  in  the  shell,  after  being  taken  from  the  water, 
if  not  removed  from  the  shell  at  once.  Serve  boiled  eggs  in  a  napkin. 

EASTER  EGGS. 

Easter  morning  would  be  incomplete,  for  the  children  at  least,  without  the  brightly- 
colored  eggs  typical  of  the  day.  There  are  many  ways  of  coloring  the  eggs,  the  easiest 
being  the  boiling  of  them  with  various  colored  dyes  sold  in  small  packages  at  the  chem- 
ists'. An  old-fashioned  method  was  to  tie  each  egg  in  a  piece  of  figured  chintz  or  calico, 
which  would  leave  its  imprint  on  the  egg  after  it  was  exposed  to  the  action  of  boiling 
water.  Another  good  way  to  produce  a  variegated  reddish  purple  color  was  to  boil  with 
the  eggs  the  skins  of  red  onions.  To  color  the  eggs  with  original  designs,  a  provincial 
method  was  to  trace  figures  upon  the  shells  of  raw  eggs  with  a  bit  of  hard  tallow  candle, 
thus  covering  the  part  of  the  shell  which  was  desired  white,  and  then  to  put  the  eggs  in 
boiling  dye-water.  Sometimes  the  eggs  are  entirely  dyed,  and  then  designs  are  engraved 
upon  them  with  a  sharp  knife  or  a  strong  trussing  or  darning  needle.  When  the  prepared 
dye  stuffs  are  not  available,  varied  colors  may  be  produced  by  using  the  following  named 
chemicals,  boiling  a  small  quantity  with  the  eggs  :  red,  Brazil  wood  ;  yellow,  Persian 
berries,  or  a  very  little  turmeric  ;  brown,  a  strong  dye  of  turmeric  ;  claret  color,  logwood  ; 
black,  logwood  and  chromate  of  potash  ;  blue,  a  mixture  of  powdered  indigo,  crystals  of 
sulphate  of  iron,  and  a  little  dry  slacked  lime.  The  eggs  should  always  be  boiled  for  ten 
minutes  at  least. 


138  HOME   DISSERTATIONS. 

POACHED  EGGS. 

Have  over  the  fire  a  large  shallow  frying-pan  half  full  of  boiling  water,  salted;  put  in  half 
a  cup  of  vinegar  and  a  teaspoon  of  salt,  and  then  drop  in  the  eggs,  which  must  previously  be 
broken  in  cups  ;  small  rings  may  be  set  in  the  pan,  an  egg  being  poured  into  each  one 
without  breaking  the  yolk,  or  an  egg-poacher  of  perforated  tin  may  be  used  ;  when  the 
eggs  are  done  to  the  desired  degree  take  each  one  up  separately  on  a  skimmer,  trim  off 
the  uneven  edges,  and  then  serve  on  toasted  bread. 

FRIED    EGGS. 

After  frying  ham,  drop  the  eggs  one  by  one  in  the  hot  fat,  and  dip  it  over  them  until 
the  white  is  set.  They  may  be  served  alone,  or  on  the  ham  ;  or  they  may  be  fried  in 
other  fat  and  served  on  broiled  ham.  An  egg  on  each  piece  of  ham  to  be  served  together. 

SCRAMBLED  EGGS. 

Heat  two  ounces  of  butter  in  a  frying-pan  ;  break  six  eggs  in  a  bowl,  and  throw  a  half 
teaspoon  of  salt  over  them  ;  pour  them,  unbeaten,  into  the  hot  butter,  and  as  they  cook, 
scrape  them  from  the  sides  and  bottom  of  the  pan.  Cooking  them  in  this  way  leaves 
strips  of  the  white  and  yellow  through  the  dish.  If  this  is  not  liked,  the  eggs  may  be 
beaten  before  they  are  put  in  the  frying-pan,  and  stirred  constantly  while  cooking  to  avoid 
the  large  pieces.  Be  careful  not  to  let  them  get  stiff,  nor  have  the  dish  on  which  they  are 
served  too  hot.  When  served,  sprinkle  with  pepper.  One  gill  of  milk  or  cream  may  be 
added  to  the  beaten  eggs,  in  the  above  recipe,  and  they  may  be  scrambled  in  a  baking 
dish,  and  sent  in  to  the  table. 

SHIRRED  EGGS. 

Butter  as  many  small  dishes,  which  come  for  the  purpose,  as  you  wish  to  serve,  one  for 
each  person  ;  into  each  dish  break  two  eggs,  taking  care  that  each  is  whole,  and  does  not 
encroach  upon  the  other  so  much  as  to  disturb  the  yolk.  Sprinkle  sparingly  with  pepper 
and  salt,  and  put  a  bit  of  butter  on  each.  Put  them  into  an  oven  and  bake  until  the  whites 
are  well  set.  Serve  immediately  in  the  same  dish  in  which  they  are  cooked.  Each  per- 
son shirs  or  mixes  them  together,  according  to  taste.  Or  the  eggs  may  be  shirred  alto- 
gether in  one  large  earthen  or  silver  dish. 

OMELETTES. 

An  omelette  pan  should  be  used  exclusively  for  the  purpose.  When  the  omelette  is  made  the  pan  should  be 
put  away  in  a  clean,  dry  place,  bottom  up;  when  needed,  warm  on  a  slow  fire  and  wipe  clean  with  a  towel,  but 
do  not  wash  it  unless  something  unclean  gets  into  it. 

PLAIN   OMELETTE. 

Porportions  :  One  ounce  of  butter  and  a  pinch  of  salt  to  four  eggs. 

Process  :  Beat  the  eggs  and  salt  ;  the  eggs  should  not  be  beaten  too  much,  as  it  makes  them  thin  and 
destroys  the  appearance  of  the  omelette.  Place  the  butter  in  the  pan  over  a  good  fire,  melt  the  butter  quickly 


EGGS.  139 

without  allowing  it  to  brown,  turn  the  eggs  in  ;  as  it  cooks  raise  the  edge  with  a  knife,  and  press  it  slightly 
towards  the  centre  ;  the  moment  it  is  thickened  or  "  set  "  fold  the  omelette  by  turning  one  half  over  the  other, 
then  turn  the  pan  upside  down  upon  a  warm  dish,  so  that  the  under  side  of  the  omelette  when  in  the  pan  will 
be  the  upper  side  when  on  the  dish.  It  should  be  soft,  juicy  and  smooth.  It  is  unnecessary  to  add  water  or 
milk — if  cooked  properly  it  is  soft  enough  without  any  liquid  being  mixed  with  the  eggs.  Omelettes  are  often 
spoiled  by  making  too  slowly.  An  omelette  can  not  be  made  too  quickly. 

VEGETABLES  IN  OMELETTES. 

If  vegetables  are  to  be  added,  they  should  be  already  cooked,  seasoned,  and  hot ;    place  in  the  centre  of 
the  omelette,  just  before  turning  :  so  with  mushroom,  shrimps,  or  any  cooked  ingredient. 

ASPARAGUS  OMELETTE. 

Prepare  same  as  plain  omelette.  When  ready  to  fold,  place  a  cup  of  asparagus  points 
cooked,  hot  and  seasoned,  in  the  middle  of  the  omelette,  double  it,  and  finish  the  same  as 
jelly  omelette. 

BLAZING  OMELETTES. 

When  made  and  turned  on  the  warm  dish,  sprinkle  with  sugar,  and  with  the  end  of  a 
red-hot  poker  touch  it  on  the  top  here  and  there,  or  in  fanciful  shapes,  according  to  taste. 
Pour  over  it  a  wineglass  of  good  Jamaica  rum  or  brandy,  and  set  it  on  fire  with  a  match  ; 
serve  at  once  and  dip  the  liquor  with  a  silver  spoon  over  the  omelette  as  long  as  it  will 
burn. 

KIDNEY   OMELETTES. 

Wipe  half  a  beef  kidney  with  a  wet  towel,  cut  it  in  small  slices,  rejecting  all  veins  and 
membranes,  put  it  over  the  fire  in  a  frying-pan  with  two  heaping  tablespoons  of  butter  and 
fry  it  quickly.  Meantime  break  three  eggs,  beat  them  with  a  saltspoon  of  salt  and  a 
little  pepper  ;  put  a  heaping  dessertspoon  of  butter  in  a  frying-pan  over  the  fire,  and 
when  it  is  melted  pour  in  the  beaten  egg  ;  break  the  omelette  a  little  while  it  is  cooking, 
so  that  the  uncooked  portion  may  run  to  the  bottom  of  the  pan;  when  the  uncooked 
portion  is  sufficiently  done,  pour  the  kidney  in  the  middle  of  it,  fold  it  together,  turn 
it  out  on  a  hot  dish,  and  serve  it  hot. 

PARSLEY  OMELETTE. 

A  few  sprigs  of  parsley  chopped  fine,  add  a  little  grated  nutmeg,  and  mix  with  the 
beaten  eggs,  finish  as  directed.  Parsley  and  chives  prepared  as  above  is  called  Omelette 
aux  fines  herbes. 

HAM  OR  BACON  OMELETTE. 

If  the  ham  is  raw,  cut  in  small  pieces  ;  put  it  in  the  butter,  when  cooked,  turn  the  beaten 
eggs  over  it ;  finish  as  directed.  If  boiled  ham  is  used,  cut  in  small  pieces  and  mix  with 
the  beaten  eggs.  Bacon  may  be  used  in  the  same  manner. 


140  HOME  DISSERTATIONS. 

* 

CHEESE  OMELETTE, 

A  little  cheese  grated,  or  cut  in  thin  square  pieces  ;  mix  it  with  the  beaten  eggs  ;  finish 
as  directed.  The  best  kind  of  cheese  are  Swiss  cheese,  Gruyere  Parmesan  and  pine-apple 

cheese. 

• 

JELLY,  JAM,  OR  MARMALADE  OMELETTE. 

Rub  off  the  yellow  part  of  the  lemon  with  a  piece  of  loaf  sugar ;  pound  the  sugar  in  a 
mortar  and  mix  it  with  the  beaten  eggs.  When  the  omelette  is  ready  to  double  up  place  a 
few  spoonfuls  of  apple  jelly  on  the  middle  of  the  omelette,  and  double  it  so  the  jelly  is 
concealed.  Any  kind  of  jams,  or  marmalades,  and,  in  fact,  any  kind  of  sweetmeat,  may  be 
used  in  the  same  way. 

BREAD. 

"  Give  us  this  day  our  daily  bread." 

"  In  the  English  language  there  is  no  nobler  word  than  lady.  But  go  back  to  its  origin,  and  what  do  we 
find  that  it  means  ?  We  find  that  it  means  she  that  looks  after  the  loaf, — the  guardian  of  the  bread.  And  to 
look  rightly  after  the  loaf,  must  not  the  '  lady '  herself  have  been  able  to  make  it,  and  able  to  teach  her  maids 
how  to  make  it  ?  Most  certainly. 

"  In  our  day  '  lady  '  has,  indeed,  a  wider  meaning  than  this  its  early  sense.  But  there  is  not  a  lady  in  the 
land  who  would  not  add  to  her  accomplishments  in  the  ability  to  make  good  bread." 

Bread,  good  bread,  is  of  pre-eminent  importance  and  should  receive  our  first  consideration.  If  you  have 
good  bread  other  food  can  be  added,  very  easily;  but,  without  good  bread  everything  else  is  as  nothing, 
bread  being  the  numeral,  and  all  other  adjuncts,  units  as  it  were.  There  need  be  no  morsel  of  bread  wasted, 
recipes  will  be  given  for  using  all  that  has  become  dry  and  stale. 

HOW. TO    DISTINGUISH    GOOD    FLOUR. 

To  make  good  bread  you  must  have  the  best  flour,  which  is  far  more  satisfactory  and  economical  in  the 
end.  The  best  flour  is  yellowish  white  ;  when  handled  it  is  lively  and  will  stick  to  the  fingers. 

TO   MAKE   GOOD    BREAD. 

Next  in  importance  to  good  flour,  is  good  yeast  or  emptings.  Flour  should  always  be  sifted  and  put  in  a 
warm  place,  to  get  thoroughly  warmed  and  dried  before  the  sponge  is  made.  Bread  is  much  better  and  more 
tender  wet  with  milk  than  with  water,  and  requires  less  flour  and  less  kneading.  Some  prefer  a  little  shorten- 
ing. In  making  good  bread,  great  care  must  be  taken  of  it,  mixing,  kneading  and  baking  all  require  the  closest 
attention. 

If  milk  is  used,  it  must  be  new,  and  in  warm  weather  it  must  be  scalded,  and  then  cooled  until  but  luke- 
warm ;  the  batter  must  be  of  the  right  temperature  when  the  yeast  is  put  in  ;  if  hot, .  the  life  of  the  yeast  is 
destroyed  ;  if  cold,  much  time  is  lost  in  rising. 

If  you  cannot  use  all  milk  for  wetting  the  flour,  a  part  milk  is  better  than  all  water.  If  liked,  put  half  a 
cup  of  shortening  melted  in  the  wetting,  to  one  large  loaf,  or  added  to  the  sponge  after  it  has  risen  the  first 
time.  One  cup  of  yeast  to  every  two  loaves.  The  dough  should  be  kept  warm  from  the  time  it  is  mixed  until 
it  is  baked,  it  will  rise  quicker  and  be  better  for  it.  Mix  the  sponge  stiff,  if  set  at  night  in  cold  weather,  put  it 
where  it  will  keep  warm,  otherwise  you  had  better  wait  until  morning — in  summer  the  natural  heat  is  sufficient. 


R.  T.  ACRES 


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"DRIFTED  SNOW  Flour  as  being  the  whitest 
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BREAD.  141 

If  the  sponge  is  set  at  night  and  kept  warm  it  will  be  light  in  the  morning  and  should  be  kneaded  at  once  in  one 
large  lump,  then  let  it  stand  to  rise  again,  when  light  mould  into  loaves.  The  more  bread  is  kneaded  before 
forming  the  loaves,  the  better  it  will  be,  but  it  should  be  kept  soft  as  possible,  using  as  little  flour  as  you  can  ; 
when  the  loaves  are  formed  put  them  into  well-buttered  pans  or  in  rows  in  one  large  pan.  Set  the  pans  in  a 
warm  place  for  an  hour,  with  a  cloth  thrown  over  them  to  exclude  the  air  and  dust ;  then  bake  in  an  oven  not 
hotter  than  you  can  hold  your  hand  in  while  counting  thirty  ;  keep  a  uniform  fire.  When  baked,  which  will 
require  about  an  hour,  let  it  stand  in  the  pans  a  few  moments,  then  turn  out  and  place  in  an  upright  or  stand- 
ing position. 

Do  not  cover  the  bread  up  in  cloths  ;  it  spoils  the  taste  ;  turn  the  pans,  and  let  i-t  rest  against  them 
without  covering. 

When  cold  put  it  away  in  a  well-aired,  clean  stone  crock,  and  keep  it  closely  covered.  Keep  it  in  a  cool 
place.  All  kinds  of  yeast  bread  is  made  by  this  method.  You  can  add  mashed  boiled  potatoes  to  any  kind  of 
bread  and  it  will  improve  it,  one  teacup  of  potato  to  every  loaf.  Dry  bread  can  also  be  used,  first  remove 
the  crust,  then  moisten  it  in  the  wetting,  proportioning  a  half  loaf  of  the  dry  bread  to  two  of  the  new. 

HOP  YEAST. 

This  yeast  will  keep  a  long  time.  Six  potatoes,  double  handful  hops,  three  tablespoons 
flour,  three  tablespoons  salt,  three  tablespoons  yeast,  two  tablespoons  sugar,  one  table- 
spoon ginger.  Tie  the  hops  in  a  coarse  muslin  bag,  boil  in  two  quarts  of  water.  Grate 
the  potatoes  ;  pour  on  them  the  hop  water,  boiling  hot,  of  which  there  must  be  one  quart, 
which  forms  a  starch,  add  the  flour,  salt,  sugar,  ginger,  stir  thoroughly  and  set  aside  until 
lukewarm,  then  add  three  tablespoons  of  good  yeast,  set  it  in  a  warm  place  to  rise  ;  when 
light  and  spongy,  which  will  take  about  three  or  four  hours,  put  it  in  a  jug  that  can  be 
corked  air-tight,  and  keep  it  in  a  cool  place.  After  the  first  time  some  of  the  yeast  can  be 
saved  to  raise  the  next  with. 

SALT   RISING,  OR  EMPTINGS. 

Pour  a  pint  of  boiling  hot  water  into  a  two-quart  bowl  or  pail,  on  a  half  teaspoon  of 
salt,  half  teaspoon  of  sugar ;  when  the  finger  can  be  held  in  it,  add  enough  flour  to  make 
a  stiff  batter  ;  mix  well,  and  set  it  in  a  kettle  of  warm  water  ;  keep  it  at  the  same  temper- 
ature until  the  batter  is  nearly  twice  its  original  bulk,  which  will  be  in  from  five  to  eight 
hours.  It  may  be  stirred  once  or  twice  during  the  rising.  The  salt  rising,  or  empting, 
can  be  set  at  night,  the  kettle  being  left  in  a  warm  oven,  and  will  be  risen  by  morning. 
Add  this  to  a  sponge  made  of  one  quart  of  warm  water  and  two  and  a  half  quarts  of  flour, 
adding  as  much  more  as  may  be  necessary  to  make  a  soft  dough  ;  mix  well,  and  leave  it 
in  a  warm  place  to  rise  ;  when  light  mould  into  loaves,  keeping  them  soft  as  possible  ;  lay 
them  in  buttered  tins,  and  when  light,  prick  and  bake. 

R.  BEST  STEAMED  BROWN  BREAD. 

Three  cups  sour  milk  or  buttermilk,  two-thirds  cup  of  molasses,  three  eggs,  one  tea- 
spoon ginger,  two  teaspoons  soda  heaped  a  little,  a  little  salt,  one-third  part  flour,  two- 
thirds  part  corn  meal.  Make  a  soft  batter,  put  it  into  a  tin  pail,  put  this  pail  into  a  kettle 


142  HOME    DISSERTAIONS. 

of  boiling  water,  not  letting  the  water  come  high  enough  to  boil  into  the  pail  or  wet  the 
bread  in  the  least.  Cover  the  kettle  tight.  It  is  not  necessary  to  cover  the  pail.  Boil 
four  hours,  taking  care  that  there  is  always  water  in  the  kettle.  Hot  water  must  be  used 
to  keep  up  the  supply,  being  careful  not  to  wet  the  bread.  This  makes  also  an  excellent 
pudding  to  use  with  sauce. 

GRAHAM    BREAD. 

One  cup  of  milk  and  one  of  water  ;  bring  to  scalding  point,  and  remove  from  fire  ;  add 
small  piece  of  butter,  same  as  you  would  for  the  white  bread  ;  add  half  a  cup  of  coffee- 
sugar,  or  clean,  dry,  yellow  sugar  ;  salt,  and  when  cool  enough  stir  into  the  Graham 
flour.  And  here  let  me  say  you  want  the  best — no  spring-wheat  Graham  flour — without 
you  want  a  sticky  bread.  Sift  the  flour,  if  it  seems  to  have  an  undue  proportion  of 
bran.  One-fourth  of  a  cake  of  compressed  yeast,  dissolved  in  half  a  cup  of  water ;  stir 
the  batter  as  stiff  as  possible  with  a  spoon.  When  light,  stir  in  half  a  saltspoon  of  soda, 
dissolved  in  a  little  water.  Do  not  add  anymore  flour,  but  turn  it  in  the  pan,  and  sponge 
not  quite  so  much  as  the  white  bread.  Bake  in  one  loaf,  in  a  long,  deep  tin.  When 
baking  brown  bread,  do  not  open  the  oven  until  it  is  nearly  done,  for  it  is  very  sensitive 
to  the  cold  air,  and  will  fall,  and  no  amount  of  baking  will  make  it  rise  again. 

RYE  BREAD. 

One  cup  of  rye  meal  ;  one  of  Indian  meal  ;  one  of  molasses ;  two  of  flour  ;  one  pint 
and  a  half  of  sour  milk  ;  a  teaspoon  of  soda  ;  an  egg  ;  one  teaspoon  of  salt.  Mix  the 
dry  ingredients  together.  Dissolve  the  soda  in  two  tablespoons  of  boiling  water.  Add 
it  and  the  milk  to  the  molasses.  Stir  well  and  pour  on  the  other  mixed  ingredients. 
Beat  the  egg  and  add  it.  Mix  thoroughly,  and  pour  into  a  well-buttered  tin  pan  that 
holds  two  quarts.  Steam  two  hours,  and  then  put  in  the  oven  for  half  an  hour. 

SODA  BISCUIT  WITHOUT  MILK. 

One  quart  flour ;  two  heaping  tablespoons  butter,  chopped  up  in  the  flour ;  two  cups 
cold  water  ;  two  teaspoons  cream  tartar,  sifted  thoroughly  with  the  flour  ;  one  teaspoon 
soda,  dissolved  in  boiling  water  ;  a  little  salt.  When  flour,  cream  of  tartar,  salt  and  butter 
are  well  incorporated,  stir  the  soda  into  the  cold  water,  and  mix  the  dough  very  quickly, 
handling  as  little  as  may  be.  It  should  be  just  stiff  enough  to  roll  out.  Stiff  soda  biscuit 
are  always  failures.  Roll  half  an  inch  thick  with  a  few  rapid  strokes,  cut  out,  and  bake 
at  once  in  a  quick  oven. 

SOUTHERN  RAISED  BISCUIT. 

Heat  a  pint  of  milk  to  melt  a  heaping  tablespoon  of  butter,  and  then  cool  it  until  it  is 
lukewarm  ;  beat  an  egg  smoothly,  add  to  it  a  level  teaspoon  of  salt,  a  gill  of  good  yeast,  a 
quart  of  flour  and  the  lukewarm  milk  ;  cover  the  bowl  or  pan  containing  this  sponge  with 


BREAD.  143 

a  folded  towel,  and  let  it  stand  over  night  in  a  place  warm  enough  to  insure  its  rising 
properly ;  the  next  morning  knead  the  dough  gently  for  five  minutes,  using  enough  flour 
to  prevent  its  sticking  to  the  hands  ;  make  it  up  in  small  biscuit,  put  them  into  a  buttered 
baking-pan,  cover  them  with  a  folded  towel  and  put  the  pan  in  a  warm  place  for  half  an 
hour,  or  until  the  biscuit  have  swollen  to  twice  their  original  size  ;  do  not  put  the  pan 
where  it  is  too  hot  to  hold  the  hand  ;  when  the  biscuit  are  light  brush  them  over  the 
surface  with  a  little  sugar  dissolved  in  milk,  or  with  melted  butter,  and  then  bake  them 
brown  in  a  quick  oven  and  serve  them  hot. 

VIENNA  ROLLS. 

One  quart  flour ;  half  teaspoon  salt ;  two  teaspoons  baking  powder ;  one  table- 
spoon lard  ;  one  pint  milk.  Sift  together  flour,  salt  and  baking  powder,  rub  in  the  lard, 
which  must  be  cold,  add  the  milk  and  mix  into  a  smooth  dough  in  the  bowl  easy  to  be 
handled  without  sticking  to  the  hands  or  board  ;  flour  the  board,  turn  it  out  and  give  it  a 
quick  knead  or  two  to  equalize  it,  then  roll  it  out  to  the  thickness  of  half  an  inch;  cut  with 
round  cutter,  fold  one  half  on  the  other,  doubling  it;  lay  it  on  a  greased  baking  sheet  with- 
out touching ;  brush  with  a  little  milk  to  glaze  them  ;  bake  in  a  hot  oven  fifteen  minutes. 

FRENCH  ROLLS. 

One  pint  of  milk  ;  one  small  cup  of  home-made  yeast ;  flour  enough  to  make  a  stiff 
batter  ;  raise  over  night ;  in  the  morning  add  one  egg,  one  tablespoon  of  butter  and  flour 
enough  to  make  it  stiff  to  roll.  Mix  it  well  and  let  it  rise,  then  knead  it  again  to  make 
it  fine  and  white  ;  roll  out,  cut  with  a  round  tin  and  fold  over,  put  them  in  a  pan  and 
cover  very  close.  Set  them  in  a  warm  place  until  they  are  very  light,  bake  quickly,  and 
you  will  have  delicious  rolls. 

K.  ENGLISH  JOHNNY  CAKE. 

Boil  a  pint  of  sweet  milk  ;  pour  it  over  a  teacup  and  a  half  of  Indian  corn  meal  and 
beat  it  for  fifteen  minutes.  Unless  well  beaten,  it  will  not  be  light.  Add  a  little  salt,  half 
a  teacup  of  sour  milk,  one  beaten  egg,  a  tablespoon  of  melted  butter,  a  tablespoon  of  flour, 
and  a  teaspoon  of  carbonate  of  soda.  Beat  well  together  again.  This  cake  is  best  baked 
in  a  spider  on  the  stove.  When  browned  on  the  bottom,  turn  it  into  another  spider,  or 
finish  it  off  on  the  pan-cake  griddle 

R.  AMERICAN  JOHNNY  CAKE. 

Two  cups  buttermilk  or  sour  milk  ;  one  half  cup  of  molasses  ;  two  eggs  ;  one  half  tea- 
spoon ginger  ;  one  teaspoon  soda  ;  butter  half  the  size  of  an  egg  ;  a  little  salt ;  one  part 
flour ;  two  parts  corn  meal ;  make  a  batter  of  medium  thickness,  bake  thirty  to  forty 
minutes  in  hot  oven. 


i44  HOME  DISSERTATIONS. 

BOILED  INDIAN  MEAL  MUSH. 

Put  over  the  fire  a  saucepan  containing  about  two  quarts  of  water  and  a  level  tablespoon 
of  salt  ;  into  this  water,  when  it  boils,  stir  enough  Indian  meal  to  make  a  mush 
thick  enough  to  hold  the  pudding-stick  upright  in  it  when  it  boils  ;  about  two  pounds 
of  Indian  meal  will  thicken  two  quarts  of  water  ;  unless  it  seems  quite  easy  to  sift 
the  meal  gradually  into  the  boiling  water  with  the  left  hand,  while  the  right  is  used 
constantly  for  stirring,  the  meal  may  be  mixed  to  a  thin  batter  with  cold  water  and 
then  poured  and  stirred  gradually  into  the  boiling  water;  the  addition  of  two  heaping 
tablespoons  of  flour  to  each  pound  of  Indian  meal  before  cooking  will  make  the 
mush  easier  to  fry,  because  the  flour  will  hold  the  slices  of  mush  together  during  the 
frying ;  after  the  mush  has  been  stirred  quite  free  from  lumps  let  it  boil  for  an  hour, 
stirring  it  often  enough  to  prevent  burning,  and  using  only  enough  heat  to  maintain  it  at 
the  boiling  point  ;  when  the  mush  is  sufficiently  cooked  pour  it  into  pans  or  earthen 
dishes  wet  with  cold  water,  and  let  it  cool;  it  will  then  be  ready  to  slice  and  fry.  Mush 
made  in  this  way  not  quite  so  stiff  is  excellent  with  milk,  or  cream  and  sugar. 

FRIED  MUSH. 

When  prepared  aS  above,  cut  in  slices  about  half  an  inch  thick.     Beat  an  egg  and  put  it 
in  a  shallow  dish;  wet  the  pudding  in  the  egg  and  fry  brown  in  hot  lard, — of  which  there 
should  be  sufficient  to  keep  the  pan  from  getting  dry.     This  is  excellent  for  breakfast, 
with  maple  syrup  or  sugar. 
P.  GRAHAM  GEMS. 

One  egg,  one  tablespoon  molasses,  two  cups  buttermilk,  one  teaspoon  soda,  a  little  salt, 
Graham  enough  to  make  a  stiff  batter.  Bake  in  hot  gem  pans. 

R.  FLOUR  OF  THE  WHOLE  WHEAT. 

This  contains  all  the  nourishing  substance  of  the  wheat,  and  is  better  than  Graham  flour,  tne  hull 
being  entirely  removed.  It  makes  good  bread,  but  muffins  and  griddle-cakes  made  of  it  are  especially  good. 
It  is  brown,  but  as  fine  as  the  white  flour.  Ask  for  flour  of  the  whole  wheat. 

R.  MUFFINS. 

One  quart  of  flour,  one  and  one-fourth  pints  of  milk,  one  tablespoon  of  sugar,  one  tea- 
spoon salt,  two  teaspoons  of  baking  powder;  bake  in  hot  oven  about  thirty  minutes.  They 
are  good  with  part  water  and  part  milk  if  the  supply  of  milk  should  fall  short.  Double  or 
treble  the  quantity  at  pleasure.  Also  good  baked  in  loaves  as  well  as  in  muffin  rings  or 
patty  pans.  Bread — like  white  bread  only  mixed  softer. 

R.  SALLY  LUNNS. 

One  quart  flour,  one  teaspoon  salt,  two  teaspoons  baking  powder,  two-thirds  cup 
butter,  four  eggs,  one  half  pint  of  milk  ;  rub  the  butter  into  the  flour ;  mix  to  a  firm 
batter  ;  bake  in  two  round  cake-tins  twenty-five  minutes  in  a  hot  oven. 


BREAD.  145 

WAFFLES. 

Beat  carefully  into  one  quart  of  flour  one  quart  of  sweet  milk,  one  cup  of  melted  butter, 
half  a  teaspoon  of  salt,  and  a  scant  half  cup  of  good  home-made  yeast.  When  raised 
add  two  eggs  well  beaten,  and  let  the  batter  rise  half  an  hour  longer.  Bake  as  soon  as 
light  in  hot  greased  waffle-irons.  Waffles  are  much  better  made  with  yeast  than  with  soda 
and  cream-tartar,  or  any  yeast  powder. 

DRY  BREAD. 

GRIDDLE  CAKES  FOR  SUNDAY  BREAKFAST. 

It  is  a  mistake  to  suppose  that  bread-pudding,  like  broiled  steaks,  are  necessary  to  existence.     It  is  very 
melancholy  to  see  so  many  ways  divulged  for  using  "  stale  "  bread,  whereby  dry  slices  and  crusts  might 

—  suffer  a  sea-change 
Into  something  rich  and  strange. 

I  am  not  very  much  interested  in  these  ways, — there  are  so  many  better  puddings  than  "bread  puddings  "  to  be 
had  at  less  expense.  I've  never  been  able  to  see  the  economy  of  wasting  eggs,  milk,  raisins  and  spices  just  for 
the  sake  of  "  saving  "  a  few  crusts  !  The  best  way  to  deal  with  stale  bread  is  to  resolve  not  to  hare  any  that  is 
too  stale  to  be  agreeable.  Good  bread  baked  twice  a  week  and  kept  in  a  stone  jar  in  a  cool,  dry  place  will 
generally  be  eaten  as  bread,  but  if  a  few  crusts  accumulate  each  week  they  can  be  merged  into  palatable  griddle- 
cakes  for  Sunday  breakfast.  Let  them  soak  in  three  cups  of  rich,  sweet  milk  until  soft,  then  stir  in  two  or 
three  well-beaten  eggs,  a  dessertspoon  of  baking  powder,  and  enough  flour  to  create  the  right  consistency. 
They  will  be  found  as  delicate  and  tender  as  rice  cakes  ;  and  eaten  only  once  a  week,  will  not  preceptibly 
shorten  life. 

QUICK  BUCKWHEAT  CAKES. 

Any  one  can  make  delicious  Buckwheat  Cakes  by  using  Hecker's  Self -Raising  Buckwheat 
as  follows:  Have  the  griddle  hot.  Measure  two  even  cupfuls  of  Hecker's  Self-Raising 
Buckwheat  and  two  of  the  same  sized  cupfuls  of  cold  water  or  milk.  Stir  the  buckwheat 
with  part  of  the  water  or  milk  until  it  forms  a  soft  dough;  then  add  the  balance  of  the 
liquid — the  less  stirring  the  better.  Bake  or  fry  immediately.  Keep  the  batter  in  a, cool' 
place  if  not  wanted  for  immediate  use.  Two  teaspoonfuls  of  good  molasses  mixed  in  the 
batter  will  give  the  cakes  a  rich  brown  color. 

OATMEAL   GRUEL. 

FOR   INVALIDS. 

Take  from  two  to  four  ounces  of  Hecker's  Rolled  Oats,  two  quarts  of  water,  one 
teaspoonful  salt.  Soak  the  oatmeal  over  night  in  half  the  water.  In  the  morning  strain 
through  a  coarse  tarletan  bag,  pressing  through  all  the  farinaceous  matter  that  will  go. 
Add  the  rest  of  the  water  with  the  salt,  and  boil  down  until  it  begins  to  thicken  perceptibly. 
Let  it  cool  enough  to  become  almost  a  jelly,  and  eat  with  powdered  sugar  and  cream.  It 
is  very  good  for  others  besides  invalids. 


146  HOME  DISSERTATIONS. 

OHIO  OATMEAL. 

Put  into  plenty  of  boiling  water  as  much  oatmeal  as  is  required,  if  there  is  not  an 
abundance  of  water  at  first  the  oatmeal  will  not  be  very  good  no  matter  how  much 
is  added  during  cooking.  Allow  two  quarts  of  boiling  water  to  one  cup  of  oatmeal  which 
has  been  wet  with  cold  water.  Boil  one  hour,  stirring  often,  and  then  add  half  a  teaspoon 
of  salt,  and  boil  an  hour  longer.  Some  soak  it  over  night  to  hasten  the  cooking.  This 
makes  it  clammy.  It  is  also  clammy  when  it  is  allowed  to  cook  after  it  is  thoroughly  done. 
The  oatmeal  must  be  bought  of  a  reliable  grocer  who  will  not  furnish  a  stale  article. 
Cracked  wheat  may  be  cooked  in  the  same  way. 

.  SCOTCH  OATMEAL  PORRIDGE. 

Scotch  oatmeal  porridge  is  made  with  milk  and  water,  in  proportion  of  one  part  of  the 
former  to  two  of  the  latter.  Allow  two  ounces  of  oatmeal  to  a  pint  and  a  half  of  milk 
and  water,  and  boil  half  an  hour. 

STRAWBERRY  SHORT-CAKE. 

Make  a  soda-biscuit  crust  with  one  quart  of  flour ;  divide  it  in  two  equal  parts  ;  it  is  to 
be  served  on  a  platter,  roll  the  crust  the  shape  and  size  inside  the  rim  ;  if  a  dinner-plate 
is  to  be  used,  make  the  cakes  round.  Roll  them  half  an  inch  thick,  prick  well,  and  bake 
in  a  hot  oven.  Split  the  cakes,  lay  one  half  on  the  plate,  crust  down  ;  butter,  and  put 
over  it  a  thick  layer  of  strawberries  and  sugar  ;  then  another  half  cake,  butter,  strawberries 
and  sugar  and  so  on  ;  the  last  half  may  be  a  cover,  the  crust  side  up,  or  it  may  be  turned 
and  covered  with  fruit  like  the  others.  Leave  it  in  the  oven  from  five  to  ten  minutes,  and 
serve  smoking  hot.  Epicures  prefer  the  strawberries  crushed  with  sugar  before  putting 
between  the  cake  layers. 

CREAM  TOAST. 

One  quart  milk  ;  two  tablespoons  of  flour  dissolved  in  a  little  milk  ;  the  spoon  should 
be  heaped  ;  salt  to  taste.  Let  the  milk  come  to  a  boil ;  add  the  flour,  stirring  till  it  boils. 
Let  it  boil  four  minutes.  It  should  be  as  thick  as  cream.  Vienna  bread  makes  the  best 
toast.  Brown  it,  and  pour  the  thickened  milk  over  it  just  before  it  is  served.  It  is  better 
not  to  pour  it  upon  the  bread  while  boiling,  for  it  makes  the  bread  too  soft  to  be  palatable. 
If  made  just  right  it  is  delicious. 

BREAD-CRUMBS. 

The  pieces  of  bread  should  be  dried  thoroughly  by  placing  them  in  a  pan  on  a  shelf 
over  the  stove.  "When  dry,  roll  them  with  a  rolling-pin  and  sift  them  through  a  flour 
sieve.  The  fine  crumbs  will  be  as  fine  as  meal,  and  are  used  for  what  is  called  breading, — 
covering  chops  or  oysters,  or  croquettes  by  dipping  them  first  in  the  crumbs,  then  in  egg 
beaten  up,  and  again  in  the  crumbs,  and  then  frying  them.  The  coarse  crumbs  are  very 
much  better  than  flour  for  plum  or  bread  pudding."  Keep  in  paper  bags. 


CAKE. 

/Pandarus. — He  that  will  have  a  cake  out  of  the  wheat  must  needs  tarry  the  grinding. 

7'roiius. — Have  I  not  tarried  ? 

Pandarus. — Ay,  the  grinding,  but  you  must  tarry  the  bolting. 

Troilus. — Have  I  not  tarried? 

Pandarus. — Ay,  the  bolting,  but  you  must  tarry  the  leavening. 

Troihis. — Still  have  I  tarried. 

Pandarus. — Ay,  to  the  leavening  ;  but   here's  in  a  word    '  hereafter '  the  kneading,  the  making 

of  the  cake,  the  heating  of  the  oven  and  the  baking  ;  nay,  you  must  stay  the  cooling  too. 

or  you  may  chance  to  burn  your  lips. 
Troilus. — Patience  herself,  what  goddess  e'er  she  be. 
Doth  lesser  blench  at  sufferance  than  I  do. 

— TROILUS  AND  CRESSIDA. 

Ail  the*  ingredients  for  making  cake  must  be  of  the  best  quality.  Good  flour,  dry  white  sugar,  remember- 
i«g  that  there  is  no  intermediate  degrees  of  quality  in  butter  and  eggs,  they  are  either  good  or  bad.  "  English 
currants  come  to  us  with  so  much  of  their  native  soil,  that  they  should  be  thoroughly  cleansed. "  The  process  is 
necessarily  so  long  and  troublesome  that  it  is  better  to  wash  several  pounds  at  once  ;  a  year's  supply.  Put 
them  in  a  milk-pan  with  a  quantity  of  warm  water  ;  after  rubbing  them  thoroughly  pour  off  the  water  and  put 
the  currants  into  the  colander;  rinse  the  pan,  set  the  colander  in  it,  and  pour  over  the  fruit  as  much  cold  water 
as  the  pan  will  hold,  then  wash  the  currants  well,  and  stir  them  about  so  that  the  clean  water  may  run  in  as  the 
dirty  water  runs  out.  If  needfaj  take  another  water,  and  still  another.  Persevere  until  the  fruit  does  not 
change  the  color  of  the  water,  then  let  it  drain  in  the  colander  for  half  an  hour.  Spread  a  large  cloth  on  the 
table,  pour  the  currants  in  the  centre,  and  rub  them  with  the  sides  and  ends,  absorbing  as  much  of  the  water 
as  possible  ;  when  the  cloth  is  quite  damp  spread  a  dry  one,  and  cover  it  thinly  with  the  fruit.  This  work 
should  be  done  in  a  good  light,  that  all  foreign  substances  may  be  seen  and  removed.  Through  the  whole 
process  keep  a  constant  "lookout  for  breakers" — fo<tf/£-breakers.  Wash  the  currants  in  the  afternoon,  and 
leave  them  on  the  second  cloth  in  a  warm  room  to  dry  over  night ;  in  the  morning  put  in  jars  and  cover  closely. 

A  "Raisin  Stoner "  saves  the  old  tedious  process  of  stoning  raisins  with  a  knife.  They  must  first  be 
stemmed,  then  one  by  one  put  through  this  ingenious  little  machine ;  the  work  is  quickly  and  well  donev 
with  comparatively  clean  fingers.  Thanks  also  to  this  labor-saving  age,  we  are  no  longer  obliged  to 
grate  sugar  or  grind  spices.  For  beating  eggs,  use  a  large  earthen  bowl,  and  this  kind  of  egg-beater — a 
wooden  handle  with  wire  loops  in  the  form  of  a  spoon.  Blanch  almonds  by  pouring  boiling  water  over  them 
and  stripping  off  the  skins. 

In  preparing  ingredients  for  cake,  weigh  the  sifted  flour,  first,  slide  it  on  a  piece  of  clean  brown  paper,  then 
weigh  the  sugar,  arrange  the  scales  for  the  additional  weight  of  butter  and  lay  this  carefully  on  the  sugar ;  the 
cutter  can  then  be  creamed  in  the  cake-bowl,  and  the  sugar  added  by  degrees  from  the  tin  receiver,  which  then 
being  quite  clean,  need  be  only  wiped,  whereas,  had  the  butter  touched  it,  it  would  require  washing.  It  is 
a:so  a  good  plan  to  have  a  couple  of  paper  bags  near  the  scales  marked  "  Flour, "  and  "Sugar,"  have  them 
large  enough  to  hold  two  quarts  each.  It  is  easy  to  slide  the  flour  and  sugar  into  them  from  the  end  of  the  tin 
receiver,  and  in  every  way  they  are  better  than  plates  or  bowls. " 

To  cream  butter  is  to  stir  it  with  a  spoon  until  it  is  of  the  consistency  of  thick  cream. 

147 


i4<5  HOME  DISSERTATIONS. 

TO   MAKE   CAKE. 

•W"  the  Jlour  oefore  measuring. — Be  accurate  in  your  measuring.  Attend  to  the  oven,  which  must,  for 
mo«»  (;ake,  be  of  the  heat  required  for  baking  bread.  See  that  the  fire  is  in  condition  to  ensure  heat  for  three- 
fourths  of  an  hour  from  the  time  the  cake  goes  in,  neither  increasing  nor  decreasing.  It  is  bad  to  add  coal 
while  cake  is  in  the  oven,  and  it  is  equally  bad  to  open  oven-doors  for  cooling.  A  basin  of  water  put  into  the 
oven  with  cake  or  pastry  will  keep  them  from  burning.  Prepare  the  baking-pans.  These  must  be  thinly 
buttered ,  and  the  lower  part  covered  with  paper  ;  many  butter  the  paper  also,  but  it  is  not  necessary.  Collect 
all  the  ingredients,  measure  or  weigh,  as  the  recipe  requires.  Should  the  butter  be  quite  salt  it  must  be  washed 
in  cold  water  ;  press  out  the  water  and  cream  the  butter,  when  the  sugar  may  be  gradually  added  and  thor- 
oughly beaten  in.  Beat  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  until  they  are  thick  and  smooth  and  add  them,  beating  well,  to 
the  butter  and  sugar  ;  add  the  spice,  then  beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  so  stiff  a  froth  that  they  will  adhere 
to  the  bowl  when  it  is  turned  upside  down.  If  the  recipe  requires  milk  it  should  now  be  stirred  in  alternately 
with  the  whites  of  the  eggs  and  the  flour,  leaving  a  little  of  the  flour  to  go  in  last ;  if  no  milk  is  used,  add  the 
whites  of  the  eggs,  then  the  flour,  after  which  it  should  be  stirred  as  little  as  possible.  Add  the  fruit  last. 
Flour  the  currants,  raisins,  and  citron  before  adding  to  the  mixture,  which  prevents  the  fruit  from  falling  to 
the  bottom.  Fill  the  pans  but  little  more  than  half  their  depth,  and  if  possible  do  not  move  them  while  the 
cake  is  baking.  Test  whether  a  cake  is  done  by  running  a  clean  straw  into  the  thickest  part.  It  should  come 
out  clean  if  the  cake  is  done. 

Icing  can  be  made  while  the  cake,  if  in  ordinary  loaves,  is  in  the  oven.  If  the  icing  be  ff>r  jelly-cake, 
which  bakes  in  a  few  moments,  it  should  be  ready  when  the  cake  goes  into  the  oven.  The  whites  of  three 
eggs  will  make  sufficient  icing  for  two  loaves  of  cake.  Icing  will  keep  for  weeks,  closely  covered  in  a  cool 
place.  If  too  stiff  from  partial  drying,  add  a  little  water.  The  whites  of  eggs  will  keep  several  days.  The 
white  of  a  common-sized  egg  weighs  one  ounce. 

Cake  should  be  wrapped  in  a  thick  cloth  as  soon  as  cool,  and  kept  in  tight  tin  boxes.  Do  not  cut  more  at 
a  time  than  you  are  likely  to  use,  as  it  is  not  good  when  dry.  Jelly-cakes  are  best  set  away  on  plates,  cicfhs 
wrapped  oioseiy  about  them,  and  a  box  enclosing  all. 

ANGEL  CAKE. 

Whites  of  eleven  eggs,  one  and  a  half  cups  of  granulated  sugar,  one  cup  of  pastry  flour, 
measured  after  being  sifted  four  times,  one  teaspoon  cream  of  tartar,  one  teaspoon  extract 
vanilla.  Stir  the  flour  and  cream  of  tartar  together.  Beat  the  whites  to  a  stiff  froth. 
Beat  the  sugar  into  the  eggs,  and  add  the  seasoning  and  flour,  stirring  quickly  and  lightly. 
Beat  until  ready  to  put  the  mixture  in  the  oven.  Use  a  tubed  pudding  pan,  eleven  inches 
in  diameter  on  top,  eight  and  a  quarter  inches  on  bottom  ;  height,  four  and  a  quarter 
inches.  Three  legs,  equal  distance  apart,  to  project  one  and  a  half  inches  above  top  of 
pan  and  riveted  to  the  outside.  Tube  five  and  one-eighth  inches  long.  Use  this  dish  for 
(no  other  purpose.  Do  not  butter  the  pan.  Bake  forty  minutes.  Keep  a  pint  di.cL  of  hot 
'water  in  the  oven  while  baking.  Do  not  open  the  oven  door  for  at  least  twenty  minutes 
after  being  put  in.  Avoid  jarring  the  oven  while  the  cake  is  baking.  When  the  forty 
minutes  have  passed,  take  out  the  tin,  turn  it  bottom  side  up,  and  leave  the  cake  to  fall 
out  itself. 

CAROLINA  CAKE. 

One  pound  of  sugar,  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  one  pound  of  flour,  half  a  pint  of 
cream,  one  teaspoon  of  soda.     Cream  the  sugar  and  butter,  work  the  flour  smoothly  in, 


CAKE.  149 

next  the  cream,  and  lastly  the  soda,  stir  lightly  and  rapidly  together,  and  bake  quickly,  in 
small  patty-pans.     Eat  while  fresh. 

COCOANUT  LAYER  CAKE. 

One  cup  sugar,  one  cup  flour,  one-half  teaspoon  cream  of  tartar,  one-quarter  teaspoon 
soda,  one  tablespoon  of  boiling  water,  three  eggs ;  beat  the  yolks  of  the  eggs,  stir  in  the 
sugar,  then  the  whites  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth,  then  the  flour  with  cream  tartar  mixed 
through  it,  then  the  soda  dissolved  in  the  boiling  water;  bake  in  three  or  four  cakes  in  layer 
pans  in  a  quick  oven.  Make  an  icing  of  the  whites  of  two  eggs,  and  six  heaping  table- 
spoons of  pulverized  sugar  ;  spread  the  icing  on  one  cake,  then  a  layer  of  cocoanut,  then 
icing,  then  another  cake,  and  so  on  ;  soak  the  cocoanut,  before  using  it,  in  a  little  milk. 

BOSTON  CREAM  CAKES. 

Into  one  pint  of  boiling  water  stir  four  ounces  of  butter,  six  of  flour,  and  when  cool, 
add  five  eggs,  well  beaten,  and  one-half  teaspoon  of  baking  powder  ;  beat  up  thoroughly, 
and  bake  in  patty-pans  in  a  very  hot  oven.  When  cool,  with  a  sharp  knife  cut  a  small 
opening  and  fill  with  the  custard,  which  you  will  make  in  this  way  :  One  pint  of  boiling 
milk,  one  cup  of  sugar,  three  beaten  eggs,  one-half  cup  of  corn-starch,  and  flavored  with 
lemon  or  vanilla,  as  preferred. 

HICKORY-NUT  MACCAROONS. 

One  cup  of  hickory-nut  meats,  pounded  in  a  mortar  ;  one  cup  of  sugar,  one  egg  and  a 
half,  and  two  tablespoons  of  flour;  bake  on  a  greased  paper;  put  very  little  in  a  place. 

CUP  CAKE. 

Four  eggs,  four  tumblers  of  sifted  flour,  three  tumblers  of  powdered  white  sugar,  one 
tumbler  of  butter,  one  tumbler  of  rich  milk,  one  nutmeg,  one  teaspoon  powdered  cinna- 
mon, one  small  teaspoon  soda.  Warm  the  milk  and  put  in  the  butter,  keeping  it  by  the 
fire  until  the  butter  is  melted.  Beat  the  eggs  very  light  and  stir  into  the  milk,  in  turn 
with  the  flour,  add  the  spice,  and  lastly  the  soda  dissolved  in  a  little  vinegar.  Stir  all 
very  hard.  Butter  small  tin  pans,  half  fill  them,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  of  equal 
heat  throughout. 

R.  COOKIES. 

One  quart  flour,  one  cup  milk,  two  heaping  teaspoons  baking  powder,  one  and  one- 
half  cups  sugar,  two  eggs,  butter  size  of  an  egg,  half  a  nutmeg.  Beat  sugar,  butter 
and  eggs  together.  Roll  out  thin  and  cut  in  whatever  shape  is  desired. 

COOKIES  WITHOUT  EGGS. 

Two  cups  white  sugar,  one  cup  butter,  one  cup  sour  milk,  three  cups  flour,  one  small 
teaspoon  soda,  lemon  extract,  more  flour  to  roll  out.  Bake  in  a  hot  oven. 


150  HOME    DISSERTATIONS. 

P.  GINGER    COOKIES. 

One  cup  molasses,  one  cup  brown  sugar,  one  egg,  one  cup  lard,  one-half  cup  warm 
water,  one  teaspoon  soda,  ginger  and  salt  to  the  taste. 

CRULLERS. 

One  cup  sour  cream,  one  cup  sugar,  one  egg,  small  teaspoon  soda,  a  little  salt ;  spice  to 
taste.  Mix  soft  with  flour.  Fry  in  boiling  lard. 

P.  COFFEE    CAKE. 

One  cup  sugar,  one  cup  molasses,  half  cup  butter,  one  cup  coffee,  one  cup  raisins,  one 
teaspoon  soda,  two  eggs  ;  spice  as  you  please.     Add  flour  to  make  stiff  batter  as  for  cup 
cake. 
R.  DOUGHNUTS. 

One  egg,  one  cup  of  sugar,  one  cup  of  milk,  one  tablespoon  of  butter,  salt  and  spice  to 
taste,  two  teaspoons  of  baking-powder,  one  quart  of  flour.  Roll  out  and  cut  with  cake- 
cutter,  making  a  hole  in  the  middle  with  a  very  small  cake-cutter.  Fry  in  boiling  lard. 
Turn  as  soon  as  brown.  These  will  not  soak  fat  if  taken  out  as  soon  as  done. 

ECLAIRS. 

Put  one  cup  of  boiling  water  and  one-half  cup  of  butter  in  a  large  saucepan.  When  it 
boils  up,  turn  in  one  pint  flour.  Beat  well  with  the  vegetable  masher.  When  perfectly 
smooth,  remove  from  the  fire.  Break  five  eggs  into  a  bowl.  When  the  paste  is  nearly 
cold,  beat  the  eggs  into  it  with  the  hand.  Only  a  small  part  of  the  eggs  should  be  added 
at  a  time.  When  the  mixture  is  thoroughly  beaten,  spread,  on  buttered  sheets,  in  oblong 
pieces,  about  four  inches  long  and  one  and  a  half  wide.  Place  about  two  inches  apart. 
Bake,  in  rather  a  quick  oven,  for  about  twenty-five  minutes.  As  soon  as  they  are  done, 
ice  with  frosting  made  of  the  whites  of  two  eggs  and  one  and  a  half  cups  of  powdered 
sugar.  Flavor  with  a  teaspoon  of  vanilla.  When  the  icing  is  cold,  cut  the  eclairs  on  one 
side,  and  fill  them. 

Filling. — Put  one  and  a  half  cups  milk  in  the  double  boiler.  Beat  together  two-thirds 
cup  of  sugar,  one-quarter  cup  of  flour,  stir  the  mixture  into  the  boiling  milk.  Cook 
fifteen  minutes,  stirring  often. 

A  chocolate  icing  may  be  made  by  putting  two  squares  of  scraped  chocolate  with  five 
tablespoons  of  powdered  sugar  and  three  of  boiling  water.  Stir  over  the  fire  until  smooth 
and  glossy.  Dip  the  top  of  the  eclairs  into  this,  as  they  come  from  the  oven. 

B.  FRUIT  CAKE  WITHOUT  BUTTER  OR  EGGS. 

Thirteen  ounces  of  fat  pork  chopped  very  fine,  one  pint  of  boiling  water  poured  on  the 
chopped  pork  ;  two  cups  of  sugar,  one  cup  of  molasses,  one  tablespoon  of  saleratus,  one 
tablespoon  of  cloves,  one  tablespoon  of  cinnamon,  four  cups  of  flour,  and  one  pound  of 
raisins. 


A  &  C  HAMS 

Jtye  be5t  ip  ttye  market. 

They  are  very  lightly 
salted.  Mild,  delicious 
flavor.  One  trial  will 
prove  them  the  best  in 
the  world. 


The  highest  grade  Champagne  in  the  World 


WHITE  I.  V  Itl    I 

"Carte  Blanche."     A  Magnificent  Rich  Wine. 
BROWN  I.AltKI, 

"Grand  Vin  Sec."     Perfection  of  a  Dry  Wine. 

BRUT    (BROW**  I.AIJ1.I, 

Finest  of  all  Champagnes. 


See  that  every  bottle  bears  the  private  label  of 

MACONDRAY  &  CO. 

SOLE  AGENTS  FOR  THE  PACIFIC  COAST 


PHOTOGRAPHERS 

BANCROKT  BUILDING,  723   MARKET  STREET 

CABINETS,  $4.00  per  dozen ;  CRAYONS  from  $10  up.     Berlin  Panels,  Handkerchief 
Prints,  Porcelain  and  Watch  Dials  executed  in  the  highest  style  of  art. 
SEE  OUR  DOOR  DISPLAY! 


ENGELBERG'S  GERMAN  BAKERY 

AND  CONFECTIONERY 

F.  SIEBRECHT,       -        PROPRIETOR 

416  KEARNY  ST.,  bet.  Cal.  and  Pine 


San  Francisco,  Aug.  26,  1891 


THE  CENTRAL  MILLING  CO. 

Gentlemen:    I  think  your  "Drifted  Snow  Flour' 
is  the  best  in  the  market. 

F.  SIEBRECHT,  416  Kearny  St. 


Palace  Hotel,  San  Francisco,  Cat, 

August  28, 


THE  CENTRAL  MILLING  CO. 

Gentlemen:  After  thoroughly  testing  your 
"Drifted  Snow  Flour"  I  take  pleasure  in  recommend- 
ing it  as  a  first-class  article  in  every  particular. 

Yours  truly, 

J.  IV.  YOUNG, 

Steward  Palace  Hotel 


S.     .  &  J.  C.  MOTT'S 

PURE  NEW  YORK  CIDER 


/T\ott'$  (garbopatqd 


/T\ott's 


CIDER  VINEGAR 


)  i  eo, 

1O7  FRONT  ST.,  SAN  KRANCISCO 


CAKE.  151 

R.  FRUIT  CAKE,  PLAIN. 

One  cup  sugar,  one-half  cup  molasses,  two-thirds  cup  of  butter,  three  eggs,  one-half 
cup  of  milk,  two  even  teaspoons  soda  one  cup  raisins,  one-half  cup  currants,  a  little 
citron,  flour  to  beat  stiff. 

R.  WEDDING  FRUIT  CAKE. 

One  pound  sugar,  one  pound  flour,  one  pound  butter,  eight  eggs,  two  pounds  raisins, 
one  pound  currants,  one  pound  citron,  one  tablespoon  molasses,  one  cup  sour  milk,  two 
even  teaspoons  soda,  one  teaspoon  each  of  spices  of  all  kinds  ;  flour  for  stiff  batter. 
Bake  two  hours  in  a  moderate  oven,  sprinkling  a  little  flour  over  the  cake,  and  put  on 
frosting  while  the  cake  is  hot. 

Frosting. — Nine  teaspoons  sugar  to  the  white  of  one  egg,  one  teaspoon  of  powdered 
starch,  one  teaspoon  strained  lemon  juice  ;  add  a  little  sugar,  then  beat  thin  ;  add  a  little 
more  sugar,  beat  till  it  is  stiff  enough.  This  cake  will  keep  a  year. 

R.  FEATHER  CAKE. 

One  egg,  one  cup  of  sugar,  one  cup  of  milk,  butter  the  size  of  an  egg,  two  teaspoons  of 
cream  tartar,  one  teaspoon  of  soda,  flour  for  thin  batter.  Beat  the  egg,  sugar  and  butter 
to  a  cream  ;  then  add  milk  and  flour  ;  mix  cream  tartar  with  the  flour,  and  dissolve 
the  soda  in  the  milk.  Bake  in  a  quick  oven  twenty  to  thirty  minutes.  This  cake  is 
simple  but  excellent. 

R.  GINGERBREAD. 

One  cup  of  molasses,  one  cup  of  sour  milk  or  buttermilk,  one-half  cup  of  sugar,  one- 
half  cup  of  butter,  one  egg,  one  teaspoon  ginger,  one  teaspoon  soda.  Mix  the  egg,  sugar, 
and  butter  thoroughly  together ;  dissolve  the  soda  in  the  molasses  ;  add  flour  enough  for 
stiff  batter  ;  bake  about  forty  minutes.  Excellent. 

B.  ICE  CREAM  CAKE. 

The  whites  of  eight  eggs,  two  cups  of  sugar,  two  cups  of  sifted  flour,  one  cup  of  corn- 
starch,  one  cup  of  butter,  one  cup  of  milk,  two  teaspoons  baking  powder.  Bake  in  thin 
layers. 

Preparation  to  put  between  the  Cakes. — The  whites  of  four  eggs,  four  cups  of  sugar  ;  pour 
half  a  pint  of  boiling  water  over  the  sugar  ;  boil  until  clear,  hard  and  candied  ;  pour  the 
boiling  hot  sugar  over  the  eggs,  stirring  until  a  stiff  cream,  then  add  a  teaspoon  of  citric 
acid  or  juice  of  a  lemon — also  flavor  with  vanilla  :  when  cool,  spread  between  and  over  the 
cakes.  This  makes  a  delicious  white  cake. 

JELLY  ROLL. 

Beat  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  with  half  a  cup  of  powdered  sugar ;  beat  the  whites  to  a  stiff, 
dry  froth,  and  add  to  the  yolks  and  sugar  ;  add  a  cup  of  pastry  flour,  and  stir  quickly  and 


152  HOME    DISSERTATIONS. 

gently  ;  bake  in  a  shallow  pan  twenty  minutes.  While  it  is  yet  warm  cut  off  the  edges, 
and  spread  the  cake  with  any  kind  of  jelly  ;  roll  up,  and  pin  a  towel  around  it ;  put  it  in 
a  cool  place  till  ready  to  serve  ;  cut  it  in  slices  with  a  sharp  knife. 

JUMBLES. 

One  pint  of  sugar,  half  pound  of  butter,  one  quart  and  one  jill  of  flour,  one  teaspoon  of 
soda  dissolved  in  one  and  a  half  jills  of  sweet  milk,  one  nutmeg,  two  teaspoons  of  cream 
of  tartar  sifted  with  the  flour,  four  eggs.  Stir  the  butter  and  sugar  until  very  light,  and 
beat  the  eggs  one  by  one  ;  add  the  rnilk,  nutmeg  and  flour.  The  hands  must  be  floured 
for  molding  the  jumbles  ;  make  a  roll  about  the  size  of  the  little  finger,  and  five  inches 
long  ;  lap  the  ends,  and  lay  in  a  slightly  buttered  pan,  giving  plenty  of  room,  as  jumbles 
spread  very  much  in  baking. 

B.  LEMON  CAKE. 

• 

Three  eggs,  one  cup  of  sugar,  one  and  a  half  cups  flour,  even  teaspoon  cream  tartar, 
half  teaspoon  soda,  two  tablespoons  cold  water.  Bake  in  layer  pans. 

Lemon  Cream  to  put  between  the  Cakes. — One  lemon  grated  and  juice,  one  cup  sugar,  two 
tablespoons  water.  Beat  all  together,  and  put  on  the  fire  and  let  boil,  then  spread 
between  the  layers  of  cake. 

P.  MARBLE  CAKE. 

White  part :  one  cup  butter,  three  cups  white  sugar,  beaten  to  a  cream  ;  one  cup  sweet 
milk,  one-half  teaspoon  soda,  five  cups  flour,  whites  of  eight  eggs  beaten  to  a  froth  added 
last.  Brown  part  :  one  cup  butter,  three  cups  brown  sugar,  beaten  together  ;  one  cup 
molasses,  one  cup  sour  milk,  one  teaspoon  soda,  the  yolks  of  eight  eggs  and  one  egg 
besides  beaten,  four  cups  flour,  spice  of  all  kinds  that  is  liked.  Put  into  the  baking-pans 
first  a  layer  of  the  brown  part,  and  then  of  the  white;  finish  with  the  brown  part.  This  is 
excellent,  and  makes  three  or  four  loaves. 

WHITE  MOUNTAIN  CAKE. 

Five  eggs,  beat  whites  separately,  three  cups  granulated  sugar,  one  cup  butter,  one  cup 
sweet  milk,  three  cups  flour,  one-half  teaspoon  of  soda,  two  teaspoons  cream  tartar,  a 
pinch  salt.  Beat  the  butter,  sugar,  and  yolks  of  the  eggs  to  a  cream  ;  mix  the  soda  in  the 
milk,  and  cream  tartar  in  the  flour;  add  the  whites  of  the  eggs  just  before  the  flour. 
Bake  in  jelly-cake  tins,  browning  lightly.  Take  the  white  of  one  egg,  a  little  sugar  and 
water,  beat  together  and  with  a  knife  spread  over  the  top  of  each  cake,  grate  one  cocoa- 
nut  and  mix  it  with  sugar,  sprinkle  it  over-  the  cakes,  and  pile  them  one  on  top  of  the 
other,  finishing  the  top  in  the  same  way.  This  is  delicious  with  ice-cream. 


CAKE.  153 

ORANGE  CAKE. 

Two  cups  sugar,  one-half  cup  butter,  mixed  together;  two  eggs,  three  cups  flour,  one 
cup  milk,  one-half  teaspoon  soda,  teaspoon  cream  tartar.  For  the  cream,  grate  the  peel 
of  one  orange  in  the  frosting,  whip  the  whites  of  three  eggs,  add  one  cup  powdered  sugar, 
the  juice  of  two  oranges.  Make  six  cakes,  on  jelly  tins,  spread  therewith  the  frosting,  and 
put  them  together,  making  two  loaves  of  three  layers  each. 

R.  OUR  CAKE. 

One  quart  flour,  two  teaspoons  baking  powder,  two  cups  sugar,  one  cup  butter, 
three  eggs,  one  cup  milk,  a  little  salt,  half  a  nutmeg,  or  two  teaspoons  of  vanilla.  Bake 
thirty  to  forty  minutes  in  a  hot  oven. 

PINAFORE  CAKE. 

One  cup  of  butter  stirred  to  a  cream,  one  and  a  half  cups  of  sugar,  half  a  cup  of  milk, 
one  teaspoon  of  soda  in  it,  four  beaten  eggs,  half  a  cup  of  corn  starch,  one  and  a  half 
cups  of  flour,  with  two  tablespoons  of  cream  tartar  in  it.  Barke  in  sheets. 

P.  MY  RAISIN  CAKE. 

One  cup  of  butter,  one  cup  of  brown  sugar,  one  cup  of  molasses,  one  cup  of  sweet  milk, 
three  cups  of  flour,  four  eggs,  two  teaspoons  baking  powder,  one  pound  of  raisins  seeded 
and  chopped,  one  teaspoon  each  of  cassia,  cloves  and  nutmeg.  Beat  butter  and  sugar  to 
a  cream,  then  add  beaten  eggs,  then  other  ingredients,  add  raisins  last  rolled  in  flour,  stir 
well.  This  makes  two  loaves. 

B.  RAISED  CAKE. 

Three  cups  of  bread  dough,  three  cups  of  flour,  three  eggs,  one  cup  butter,  one  teaspoon 
of  soda;  spices  and  fruit. 

P.  SPONGE  CAKE. 

Whites  of  three  eggs,  one  cup  sugar,  one  cup  flour,  two  tablespoons  sweet  cream,  two 
teaspoons  baking  powder.  Beat  eggs,  add  sugar  and  cream,  then  baking  powder  mixed 
with  flour. 

P.  SPONGE  CAKE. 

Whites  of  five  eggs  beaten  well,  half  a.  tumbler  of  flour,  half  a  tumbler  of  white  sugar, 
haif  a  teaspoon  cream  tartar,  quarter  teaspoon  soda ;  put  the  soda  and  cream  tartar  in  the 
eggs  before  the  sugar,  and  add  last.  This  cake  is  delicious. 

SILVER  CAKE. 

Two  coffee  cups  of  sugar,  one-half  cup  of  butter,  two  and  one-half  cups  flour,  three- 
quarters  cup  sweet  milk,  one-half  teaspoon  soda,  one  teaspoon  cream  tartar,  whites  of 
eight  eggs  ;  flavor  with  lemon  or  almond  extract  ;  frost  with  white  icing. 


154  HOME    DISSERTATIONS. 

GOLD  CAKE. 

One  cup  sugar,  three-quarters  cup  butter,  two  cups  flour,  one-quarter  cup  sweet  milk, 
one-half  teaspoon  soda,  one  teaspoon  cream  tartar,  the  yolks  of  eight  eggs  ;  frost  with 
golden  icing. 

CARAMEL   FROSTING. 

Scrape  fine  one  square  of  chocolate,  add  one  cup  of  brown  sugar,  put  these  with  one  tablespoon  of  water 
in  a  saucepan.  Simmer  gently  twenty  minutes,  being  careful  not  to  let  it  burn.  Spread  on  the  cake  while 
hot. 

GOLDEN    FROSTING. 

Stir  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  with  enough  powdered  sugar  to  thicken,  and  flavor  with  lemon.  The  flavor  is 
not  so  good  as  other  kinds  of  frosting,  but  it  makes  a  change. 

MARKING  CAKES  IN  GOLD. 

Bake  round  cakes  for  the  children,  and  when  the  frosting  on  them  is  hard,  dip  a  small  brush  into  the  yolk 
of  an  egg  and  write  a  word  or  name  upon  the  cake.  It  pleases  the  little  ones  very  much. 

WHITE  FROSTING. 

Over  one  pound  of  the  best  white  sugar,  pour  just  enough  water  to  dissolve  the  lumps.  Take  the  whites  of 
three  eggs  and  beat  them  a  little,  but  not  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  add  these  to  the  sugar  and  water.  Put  it  in  a 
deep  bowl,  and  place  in  a  vessel  of  boiling  water,  and  beat  the  mixture.  It  will  at  first  become  thin  and  clear. 
When  it  becomes  quite  thick,  remove  from  the  fire  and  continue  the  beating,  until  it  becomes  quite  cold  and 
thick.  Then  spread  it  on  with  a  knife.  It  will  be  perfectly  white. 

FROSTING. 

To  the  white  of  one  egg  add  a  teacup  of  powdered  sugar  by  degrees,  beating  with  a  spoon.  When  all  has 
been  added,  stir  in  a  tablespoon  of  lemon  juice.  If  the  white  of  the  egg  is  large  it  will  require  a  very  full  cup 
of  sugar,  and  if  small,  a  rather  scant  cup.  The  egg  must  not  be  beaten  until  the  sugar  is  added.  This  gives 
a  smooth,  tender  frosting,  which  will  cover  one  small  sheet  of  cake.  The  same  amount  of  ingredients,  prepared 
with  the  whites  of  the  eggs  unbeaten,  will  make  one-third  less  frosting  than  it  will  if  the  eggs  are  beaten  to  a 
stiff  froth  before  adding  the  sugar;  but  the  icing  will  be  enough  smoother  and  softer  to  pay  for  the  extra 
quantity.  It  may  be  flavored  with  half  a  teaspoon  of  vanilla. 

CHOCOLATE  ICING. 

Beat  one  and  two-thirds  cup  of  sugar  into  the  unbeaten  whites  of  two  eggs.  Scrape  two  squares  of  Baker's 
chocolate  and  put  it  with  one-third  of  a  cup  sugar  and  four  tablespoons  of  boiling  water  into  a  small  frying-pan. 
Stir  over  a  hot  fire  until  smooth  and  glossy,  and  then  stir  into  the  beaten  whites  and  sugar.  With  the  quantity 
given  two  sheets  of  cake  can  be  iced. 


PASTRY. 

Two  pints  of  flour,  one  and  a  half  pints  of  butter,  chopped  in  the  flour  ;  a  half  pint  of  cold  water.  Mix 
with  a  knife.  The  dough  should  be  dry  and  handled  as  little  as  possible,  keep  it  very  cold  ;  roll  out  and  bake 
in  a  quick  oven. 

TART  PASTE. 

Rub  half  a  pound  of  fresh  butter  into  a  pound  of  flour  ;  add  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  a  little  lump  of  sugar,  and 
enough  milk  to  mix  it  properly. 

PUFF  PASTE. 

One  quart  of  pastry  flour,  one  pint  butter,  one  tablespoon  salt,  one  tablespoon  sugar,  one  and  a  quarter 
cups  ice-water.  Fill  a  large  pan  or  bowl  with  boiling  water,  and  a  moment  later  substitute  cold  water,  leaving 
the  bowl  half  full.  Wash  the  pint  of  butter  in  this  water,  and  work  with  the  hands  until  light  and  wavy  ;  this 
frees  it  from  buttermilk  and  salt  and  lightening  it,  so  that  the  pastry  will  be  more  delicate.  After  shaping  the 
butter  into  two  thin  cakes,  put  it  in  a  pan  of  ice-water  to  harden.  Mix  the  flour,  sugar  and  salt  together,  and 
with  the  hands  rub  a  third  of  the  butter  into  the  flour ;  add  the  water,  stirring  with  a  knife,  and  continue 
stirring  quickly  and  vigorously  until  the  paste  becomes  a  smooth  ball.  Sprinkle  the  molding-board  lightly 
with  flour  ;  turn  the  paste  on  the  board  and  pound  it  quickly  and  lightly  with  the  rolling-pin.  Be  careful  not 
to  break  the  paste.  Roll  from  you  and  to  one  side  ;  or  if  you  prefer  to  roll  from  you  all  the  while,  turn  the 
paste  round.  When  it  has  been  rolled  down  to  the  thickness  of  about  quarter  of  an  inch  wipe  the  remaining 
butter,  break  it  into  bits  and  spread  these  on  the  paste.  A  light  sprinkling  of  flour  should  follow,  and  the 
paste  should  be  folded,  one-third  from  each  side,  so  that  the  edges  meet.  Next  fold  from  the  ends,  but  do  not 
have  these  meet.  Double  the  paste,  pound  lightly,  and  roll  down  to  the  thickness  of  about  a  third  of  an  inch. 
Fold  as  before  and  roll  down  again.  Repeat  the  operation  three  times  for  pies,  and  six  vol-au-vents,  patties 
or  tarts.  When  it  has  been  rolled  the  last  time  place  upon  ice.  It  should  remain  at  least  an  hour  in  the  ice- 
chest  before  it  is  used.  In  hot  weather  if  the  paste  sticks  when  being  rolled,  put  it  on  a  tin  sheet  and  on  ice. 
As  soon  as  it  has  been  chilled  it  will  roll  easily.  The  smaller  the  quantity  of  flour  used  when  rolling  the 
better  the  paste  will  be  ;  indeed,  no  matter  how  carefully  all  the  work  is  done,  the  paste  will  not  be  good  if 
much  flour  be  used. 

APPLE  PIE. 

Make  a  thick  sliced  apple  pie,  seasoning  with  cinnamon  or  nutmeg,  and  a  little  butter. 
No  sugar.  Make  a  small  opening  in  the  centre  of  the  upper  crust.  Bake  until  thoroughly 
done.  Cook  one  cup  or  one  and  a  half  cups  sugar,  according  to  the  sourness  of  the 
apples,  till  it  becomes  a  syrup,  adding  water,  as  necessary,  lest  it  be  too  thick.  When 
the  pie  is  done,  but  still  hot,  pour  the  syrup  carefully  through  the  opening  in  the  crust. 

APPLE  LEMON  PIE. 

Rind  and  juice  of  one  lemon,  piece  of  butter  size  of  a  walnut,  two  apples  chopped  fine, 
one  egg,  one  cup  of  sugar.  Bake  with  upper  crust. 

BLACKBERRY  PIE. 

Line  a  pie-dish  with  pastry  and  fill  with  ripe  berries,  sweetening  plentifully.  Cover 
with  paste  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven.  Eat  cold  with  white  sugar  sifted  over  it. 

155 


156  HOME  DISSERTATIONS. 

CHERRY  PIE. 

Line  the  pie-dish  with  paste  ;  fill  with  a  mixture  of  sour  and  sweet  cherries  ;  sweeten 
plentifully  ;  cover  with  paste  printed  at  the  edge  and  slit  in  the  middle,  and  bake  a  light 
brown.  Eat  fresh,  but  not  warm,  with  white  sugar  sifted  over  the  top. 

B.  CURRANT    PIE. 

One  cup  of  washed  currants,  one  cup  of  sugar,  one  tablespoon  of  flour,  yolks  of  two 
eggs,  use  the  whites  of  eggs  same  as  lemon  meringue  pie. 

CREAM  PIE. 

Three  cups  of  milk,  two  eggs,  two  tablespoons  of  corn-starch,  butter  the  size  of  a  walnut, 
a  pinch  of  salt,  two  tablespoons  of  sugar.  Have  the  crust  ready  baked.  Then  scald  one 
and  one-half  cups  of  the  milk,  with  the  butter  and  salt.  Beat  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  with 
the  corn-starch  and  the  other  one-half  cups  of  milk,  with  one  teaspoon  lemon  extract. 
Put  it  in  the  crust  and  bake  till  done.  Then  beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth 
with  a  little  sugar,  and  spread  over  the  pie.  Return  it  to  the  oven  and  brown  slightly. 

BOSTON  CREAM  PIE. 

One  cup  of  sugar,  one  cup  of  flour,  four  eggs.  Beat  the  yolks  and  sugar  together  to  a 
cream,  add  the  flour,  then  the  whites  well  beaten,  and  one  teaspoon  of  milk  with  one  of 
baking  powder.  Bake  in  round  tins  so  that  the  cake  will  be  one  inch  and  a  half  thick. 
For  the  custard,  take  two  eggs  beaten  separately,  one  cup  of  sugar,  one  tablespoon  of  corn- 
starch,  add  a  little  cold  milk,  then  turn  the  mixture  into  less  than  a  pint  of  scalding  milk, 
and  stir  constantly  until  cooked.  When  the  cake  is  cold,  spread  with  the  custard.  Flavor 
with  vanilla  or  lemon. 

FRUIT  PIES  IN  SEASON. 

Have  the  fruit  ready  ;  line  with  pastry  the  sides  only  of  a  deep  dish,  yellow-ware  pre 
ferred,  but  an  ordinary  cake-tin  will  do;  place  a  small  cup  in  the  centre  of  the  dish — one 
that  will  sit  flat  with  the  rim  down;  pour  the  berries  or  fruit  all  round  the  cup;  pile  as-high 
as  means  will  allow  ;  cover  thickly  with  sugar  ;  cover  with  pastry  ;  make  one  or  two  little 
slits  in  it  for  the  steam  to  escape,  and  bake  a  light  brown.  When  serving,  remove 
a  piece  of  the  top  crust,  and  insert  a  knife  under  the  rim  of  the  cup  and  raise  it.  It  will  be 
found  to  be  full  of  the  richest  juice,  which  generally  runs  over  in  the  oven  from  the  flat 
pies.  This  does  away  with  the  soggy  bottom  crust,  and  will  keep  a  day  or  two.  Fruit  is 
always  better  mixed  for  pies  ;  such  as  strawberries  and  cherries,  raspberries  and  carrants 
etc.  Always  stone  the  cherries. 

LEMON  MERINGUE  PIE. 

One  lemon,  grate  the  rind  and  squeeze  the  juice,  one  tablespoon  of  corn-starch  dis- 
solved in  cold  water,  one  cup  of  sugar,  one  egg,  piece  of  butter  size  of  an  egg,  one  cup 


PASTRY.  157 

of  hot  -yater  ;  boil  a  few  minutes,  bake  on  an  under  crust.  Make  a  meringue  of  the 
whites  of  two  eggs  and  two  tablespoons  of  pulverized  sugar,  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth.  Put  it 
on  the  top  of  the  pie  after  it  is  baked,  and  return  to  the  oven  a  few  minutes  until  it  is  a 
light  brown. 

RICH  MINCE-MEAT. 

One  cup  chopped  beef  or  fresh  tongue,  one  and  a  half  cups  of  raisins,  one  and  a  half 
cups  of  currants,  one  and  a  half  cups  brown  sugar,  one  cup  of  granulated  sugar,  three 
cups  of  chopped  apples,  two  teaspoons  of  cinnamon,  half  a  teaspoon  of  mace,  half  a  tea- 
spoon of  powdered  cloves,  half  a  cup  of  sliced  citron,  half  a  cup.  of  brandy,  half  a  cup  of 
wine,  one  cup  of  cider,  one  orange  rind  and  juice,  one  cup  chopped  suet.  Mix  in  the 
order  given,  and  after  it  is  all  well  mixed  let  it  stand  a  few  days  before  using  so  that  it  may 
become  well  flavored. 

PUMPKIN  PIE. 

One  quart  stewed  pumpkin,  rubbed  through  a  fine  colander;  six  eggs;  two  quarts  of 
milk;  one  teaspoon  of  mace;  one  teaspoon  of  cinnamon  and  the  same  of  nutmeg;  one  and 
one-half  cups  of  sugar.  Beat  the  eggs  light  and  whip  in  the  sugar,  then  the  pumpkin  and 
spice.  At  last  mix  in  the  milk,  stirring  up  well  from  the  bottom.  Bake  in  open  shells  of 
pie-crust.  Eat  cold. 

SQUASH  PIES. 

rive  pints  of  stewed  and  strained  squash,  two  quarts  of  boiling  milk,  one  and  a  half 
nutmeg,  four  teaspoons  of  salt,  five  cups  of  sugar,  nine  eggs,  four  tablespoons  of  Sicily 
Madeira  and  two  of  rose-water.  Gradually  pour  the  boiling  milk  on  the  squash,  and  stir 
continually.  Add  the  nutmeg,  rose-water  and  sugar.  When  cold,  add  the  eggs,  well 
beaten,  and  just  before  the  mixture  is  put  in  the  plates,  add  the  Madeira.  Butter  deep 
plates  and  line  with  a  plain  paste.  Fill  with  the  mixture,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven 
for  forty  minutes. 

WASHINGTON  PIE. 

One  teacup  of  sugar  rubbed  to  a  cream  with  butter  of  the  size  of  an  egg.  Beat  four 
eggs  separately,  and  stir  in  one  heaping  cup,of  sifted  flour,  with  a  full  teaspoon  of  cream- 
tartar,  and  one  teaspoon  of  soda  dissolved  in  one  small  teaspoon  of  milk.  Divide  the 
mixture  on  two  shallow  tin  plates  well  buttered;  put  in  a  moderate  oven.  When  baked, 
put  preserves  or  jelly  between  the  cakes;  and,  when  on  the  plate,  sprinkle  some  fine  pow- 
dered sugar  over  the  upper  cake. 

T.  PIES  AT  A  MOMENT'S  NOTICE. 

Bake  under  crust,  or  open  shells  of  puff  paste,  or  flaky  pie-crust.  Keep  them  in  a  dry, 
cool  place.  When  wanted,  fill  with  stewed  fruit,  preserves  or  jam  of  any  kind.  It  is  a 
dainty  and  delicious  pie. 


PUDDINGS. 

A  mould,  a  basin,  or  a  pudding-cloth,  will  be  required  for  boiled  or  steamed  puddings.  The  mould  should 
have  a  close  cover,  and  be  rubbed  over  the  inside  with  butter  before  putting  the  pudding  in  it,  that  it  may  not. 
stick  to  the  side  ;  the  cloth  should  be  dipped  in  boiling  water,  and  then  well  floured  on  the  inside.  A  pudding- 
cloth  must  be  kept  clean  and  in  a  dry  place.  The  water  must  be  boiling  hot  when  the  pudding  is  put  in,  and 
continue  to  boil  until  it  is  done.  If  a  pudding  is  boiled  in  a  cloth  it  must  be  moved  frequently  whilst  boiling, 
otherwise  it  will  stick  to  the  saucepan.  There  must  always  be  water  enough  to  cover  the  pudding  if  it  is 
boiled  in  a  cloth  ;  but  if  boiled  in  a  tin  mould,  do  not  let  the  water  quite  reach  the  top.  To  boil  a  pudding  in 
a  basin,  dip  a  cloth  in  hot  water,  dredge  it  with  flour,  and  tie  it  closely  over  the  basin.  When  the  pudding  is 
done,  take  it  from  the  water,  plunge  whatever  it  is  boiling  in,  whether  cloth  or  basin,  suddenly  into  cold  water, 
then  turn  it  out  immediately  ;  this  will  prevent  its  sticking.  If  there  is  any  delay  in  serving  the  pudding,  cover 
it  with  a  napkin,  or  the  cloth  in  which  it  was  boiled  ;  but  it  is  better  to  serve  it  as  soon  as  removed  from  the 
cloth,  basin  or  mould. 

Gelatine  should  be  soaked  in  an  equal  quantity  of  cold  water  for  an  hour.  Tapioca  washed  and  soaked  in 
cold  water  over  night,  or  in  lukewarm  until  thoroughly  soaked. 

APPLE  BUTTER    ROLL. 

Make  dough  as  for  biscuit,  only  a  little  shorter,  roll  until  one-half  inch  thick,  spread 
with  apple  butter,  roll  up,  then  put  a  cloth  around  it,  tie  at  each  end  with  a  string,  leav- 
ing the  cloth  loose  enough  to  have  room  to  rise,  and  boil  it  one  hour,  or  one  hour  and 
a  quarter  if  large.  It  is  to  be  rolled  the  same  way  as  jelly  roll,  and  eaten  warm 
with  sweet  cream.  Cherries  and  berries  can  be  used  instead  of  apples. 

APPLE  SOUFFLE  PUDDING. 

Take  six  or  seven  fine  juicy  apples,  one  cup  fine  bread-crumbs,  four  eggs,  one  cup 
sugar,  two  tablespoons  butter,  nutmeg,  and  a  little  grated  lemon  peel.  Pare,  core  and 
slice  the  apples,  and  stew  in  a  covered  double  saucepan,  without  a  drop  of  water,  until  they 
are  tender.  Mash  to  a  smooth  pulp,  and,  while  hot,  stir  in  the  butter  and  sugar.  Let  it 
get  quite  cold,  and  whip  in  first  the  yolks  of  the  eggs,  then  the  whites — beaten  very  stiff 
— alternately  with  the  bread-crumbs.  Flavor,  beat  quickly  three  minutes,  until  all  the 
ingredients  are  reduced  to  a  creamy  batter,  and  bake  in  a  buttered  dish  in  a  moderate 
oven.  It  will  take  about  an  hour  to  cook  properly.  Keep  covered  until  ten  minutes 
before  you  take  it  out.  This  will  retain  the  juices  and  prevent  the  formation  of  a  crust 
on  the  top. 

APPLE  TAPIOCA  PUDDING. 

One  teacup  tapioca;  six  apples,  juicy  and  well-flavored,  pared  and  cored;  one  quart 
water,  one  teaspoon  salt.     Cover  the  tapioca  with  three  cups  of  lukewarm  water  and  set  in 
a  warm  place  to  soak  thoroughly,  stirring  now  and  then.     Place  the  apples  in  a  deep 
158 


PUDDINGS.  159 

dish,  adding  a  cup  of  lukewarm  water;  cover  closely  and  steam  in  a  moderate  oven  until 
soft  all  through,  turning  them  if  they  cook  at  the  bottom.  If  the  dish  is  more  than  a  third 
full  of  liquid,  turn  some  of  it  out  before  you  pour  the  soaked  tapioca  overall.  Unless  the 
apples  are  very  sweet,  fill  the  centre  with  sugar.  Bake,  after  the  tapioca  goes  in,  one 
hour.  Eat  cold  with  cream,  or  warm  with  hard  sweet  sauce. 

R.  BAKED  APPLE  PUDDING. 

One  quart  flour,  two  heaping  teaspoons  baking  powder,  butter  size  of  an  egg,  milk 
enough  to  mix  it  to  roll,  stir  baking  powder  well  into  the  flour,  work  the  butter  into  the 
flour,  add  the  milk  slowly,  being  careful  not  to  get  it  too  soft.  Roll  out  two-thirds  of  it 
for  the  bottom  and  sides  of  a  deep  baking  dish  holding  not  over  one  quart.  Fill  it  with 
sliced  sour  apples.  Cover  it  with  the  remaining  crust,  cutting  a  hole  in  the  centre,  through 
which  pour  two  tablespoons  of  water  just  before  putting  in  the  oven.  Bake  forty  minutes, 
or  until  the  apple  is  thoroughly  cooked.  Serve  with  your  favorite  pudding-sauce.  This 
is  better  and  more  healthful  than  apple-pie. 

BAKED  APPLE  DUMPLINGS. 

Pare  and  core  smooth  apples  of  uniform  size,  and  fill  the  cavity  of  each  with  sugar  and 
a  little  cinnamon.  Divide  the  paste  into  as  many  parts  as  there  are  apples;  roll  each  piece 
out  square,  and  enclose  an  apple  in  it,  slightly  wetting  the  edges  to  make  them  slide. 
Bake  in  shallow  pans,  steam  or  boil,  and  serve  with  hard  sauce. 

R.  CUSTARD  PUDDING. 

Six  eggs,  one  quart  milk,  six  teaspoons  sugar,  heaped,  salt  and  nutmeg  to  taste.  Bake 
thirty  minutes. 

R.  INDIAN    PUDDING. 

One  quart  boiling  milk,  one  teacup  white  corn-meal,  one  quart  cold  milk,  three  eggs,  one 
cup  sugar,  one  small  teaspoon  salt,  butter  size  of  a  hen's  egg,  a  little  nutmeg.  Stir  the 
meal  carefully  into  the  boiling  milk,  letting  it  fall  slowly  through  the  fingers;  there  must 
be  no  lumps;  beat  the  eggs  and  mix  them  with  the  cold  milk;  let  the  meal  cook  in  the 
milk  about  five  minutes,  then  put  into  a  baking  dish,  and  add  the  other  ingredients,  the 
cold  milk  and  eggs  last.  Bake  slowly  about  two  hours;  if  properly  baked  it  is  delicate 
and  delicious.  It  can  be  easily  spoiled  by  baking  in  too  hot  an  oven.  Raisins  improve  it. 

DELICIOUS  FRUIT  PUDDING. 

Line  a  mould  with  slices  of  sponge  cake,  then  put  in  a  layer  of  fruit,  strawberries,  rasp- 
berries, blackberries,  currants  or  ripe  pineapple  torn  into  bits — rich,  tart,  ripe  fruit  is  best; 
put  over  this  a  layer  of  hot  custard,  then  another  layer  of  cake  and  another  of  fruit  and  of 
custard  until  the  mould  is  full;  put  away  to  get  cold  and  firm  and  serve  when  turned  out  of 
the  mould  with  sugar  and  cream;  for  the  custard  bring  to  boiling  point  in  a  farina  kettle  a 


160  HOME    DISSERTATIONS. 

pint  of  milk;  add  an  ounce  and  a  half  of  dissolved  gelatine,  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  and 
four  ounces  of  sugar.  When  the  custard  has  thickened — be  sure  it  doesn't  curdle — take 
it  off  the  fire  and  stir  in  half  a  pint  of  cream  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon. 

LEMMON    PUDDING. 

Three  eggs,  one  scant  cup  of  sugar,  two  liberal  teaspoons  of  corn-starch,  one  lemon, 
juice  and  rind;  two  cups  of  milk,  one  heaping  teaspoon  of  butter.  Scald  the  milk,  and 
stir  in  the  corn-starch  wet  up  in  four  teaspoons  of  cold  water.  Cook — stirring  all  the 
time — until  it  thickens  well;  add  the  butter,  and  set  aside  until  perfectly  cold;  then  beat 
the  eggs  light,  add  the  sugar,  the  lemon  juice  and  grated  peel,  and  whip  in,  a  great 
spoonful  at  a  time,  the  stiffened  corn-starch  milk.  Bake  in  a  buttered  dish  and  eat  cold. 

P.  ORANGE  PUDDING. 

Two  oranges  sliced,  one  cup  sugar  sprinkled  on  them,  yolks  of  two  eggs,  two  table- 
spoons corn-starch,  and  half  a  cup  of  sugar  stirred  in  one  pint  milk;  cook  and  turn  on  the 
oranges,  then  beat  the  whites  of  two  eggs  with  a  little  sugar.  Turn  on  top  and  brown  in 
the  oven. 

QUINCE  ICED  PUDDING. 

Three  eggs  beaten  very  light,  add  a  cup  and  a  half  of  sugar,  and  continue  beating  until 
the  mixture  is  foamy.  Two  cups  of  sifted  pastry  flour  put  into  a  teaspoon  of  cream- 
tartar,  and  a  half  teaspoon  of  soda  with  half  a  cup  of  cold  water  stirred  into  the  beaten 
egg  and  sugar,  and  the  flour  sifted  into  the  same  bowl.  A  double  oval  mould, 
tapering,  should  be  used,  about  four  inches  high,  and  the  measurement  at  the  top 
where  it  opens,  six  inches  by  eight.  The  space  between  the  outer  and  inner  walls  is 
about  an  inch  and  a  half.  When  the  mould  has  been  buttered  the  cake  mixture  should  be 
turned  into  it,  and  baked  slowly  twenty  minutes.  Allow  it.  to  stand  in  the  mould  until  nearly 
cold,  and  then  turn  out  on  a  flat  dish.  Into  the  whites  of  two  eggs  beat  a  cup  of  pow- 
dered sugar,  seasoned  with  half  a  teaspoon  of  vanilla  extract.  The  cake  should  be  iced 
with  this  and  set  away.  In  the  meantime  a  generous  quart  of  cream,  a  cup  of  sugar,  a 
pint  of  soft  custard  and  a  tablespoon  of  vanilla  extract  and  combine  and  freeze  like  ice 
£ream.  A  large  tumbler  of  quince  jelly  should  be  spread  on  the  inside  of  the  cake,  and 
(he  frozen  cream  put  in  the  centre  ;  whipped  cream  should  be  heaped  on  the  top 
and  at  the  base,  making  an  elegant  dish.  The  ice  cream  should  not  be  put  into  the  pud- 
ding until  just  before  it  is  to  be  served. 

R.  RICE  PUDDING. 

Three-fourths  of  a  cup  of  rice,  one-half  cup  of  sugar,  two  teaspoons  of  vanilla, 
two  quarts  of  milk,  salt  to  taste.  Nutmeg  or  raisins  can  be  used  for  flavoring  instead  of 
vanilla.  It  requires  one-half  cup  of  raisins.  Bake  in  pudding-dish  about  two  hours, 


PUDDINGS.  161 

slowly,  and  take  out  immediately  when  the  rice  is  done.  This  can  be  ascertained  only  by 
tasting.  Do  not  stir  the  rice.  If  properly  baked  it  will  be  creamy  and  delicious.  If 
baked  in  too  hot  an  oven,  or  too  long-,  it  will  be  spoiled. 

T.  MY  MOTHER'S  RICE  PUDDING. 

One  pint  of  rice  thoroughly  washed,  rubbing  it  well  through  several  waters;  mix  with  it 
half  a  pint  of  good-sized  clean  raisins;  put  it  in  a  conical  pudding-bag.  Boil  three-quar- 
ters of  an  hour.  To  be  eaten  hot  with  sauce, — a  gill  of  butter  well-creamed,  and  beaten 
until  light,  with  two  gills  of  brown  sugar.  Serve  with  nutmeg  thickly  grated  over  the 
peaks. 

To  prepare  a  pudding-bag,  sew  firmly  strong  canvas  in  the  shape  of  a  sugar-loaf;  sew  within  four  inches 
of  the  top  a  strong  string.  Before  putting  in  the  pudding  dip  the  bag  in  boiling  water,  turn  the  bag  on  the 
wrong  side,  and  dredge  it  well  with  flour.  Have  ready  a  pot  of  water  boiling  hard,  slightly  salted;  put  in  the 
pudding,  allowing  one-third  room  for  swelling,  and  tie  firmly.  Turn  a  plate  in  the  bottom  of  the  pot,  and  be 
sure  that  there  is  enough  boiling  water  to  completely  cover  it.  Keep  the  teakettle  boiling  all  the  while  the 
pudding  is  in  the  pot,  and  fill  up  often.  Fifteen  minutes  after  the  pudding  is  put  in  turn  it  over  in  the  pot. 

I?.  RICE  MERINGUE  PUDDING. 

Half  a  cup  of  rice  boiled  to  a  pulp,  one  pint  of  milk,  yolks  of  four  eggs,  grated  rind 
of  one  large  lemon,  or  two  small  ones.  Bake  lightly  in  moderate  oven  the  same  as  a 
custard.  When  cold  add  the  meringue — which  consists  of  the  whites  of  four  eggs,  the 
juice  of  the  lemon,  and  one  pint  of  powdered  sugar,  well  beaten,  which  spread  over  the 
top  and  return  it  to  the  oven  until  it  has  browned  and  formed  a  crust. 

R.  CORN-STARCH  PUDDING. 

One  quart  of  milk,  four  tablespoons  of  corn-starch  heaped  a  little,  one  egg,  salt  to  taste. 
Beat  the  egg  and  add  to  it  a  little  of  the  cold  milk  and  the  corn-starch  ;  mix  thoroughly; 
put  the  rest  of  the  milk  in  a  kettle  and  let  it  come  to  a  boil;  stir  in  the  mixture,  and  con- 
tinue to  stir  till  it  boils;  let  it  boil  four  minutes.  It  is  good  either  warm  or  cold,  and  is  to 
be  eaten  with  milk  or  cream,  with  sugar  for  those  who  like;  jelly  is  often  eaten  with  it 
also.  It  is  much  better  made  in  this  simple  way  than  in  the  usual  way  one  finds  it  prepared. 

CUSTARD  FOR  PUDDINGS. 

Heat  in  a  saucepan  till  nearly  boiling  a  pint  of  new  milk;  beat  together  in  a  basin  the 
yolks  of  two  eggs,  a  little  cream  and  some  pulverized  loaf-sugar.  Over  these  pour  the  hot 
milk,  and  then  pour  it  from  the  basin  into  the  saucepan  and  back  again  until  thoroughly 
mixed.  Lastly,  stir  it  over  the  fire  till  nearly  boiling.  It  can  be  used  on  puddings,  fruit 
pies,  or  served  cold  in  a  glass  dish,  with  nutmeg  grated  over  it. 


i62  HOME  DISSERTATIONS. 

FRITTERS. 

Beat  three  eggs  well  together,  add  alternately  flour  and  milk,  salted,  till  a  pint  of  each 
be  used,  beating  quickly  all  the  time.  To  the  above  add  immediately  a  pint  of  pre- 
served fruit  and  drop  spoonfuls  into  boiling  hot  lard.  If  oysters  or  clams  be  used,  chop, 
not  too  fine,  about  twenty-five,  and  mix  as  above.  So  of  green  corn,  ripe  or  canned  ap- 
ples, pears,  cored  and  halved,  or  stoned  peaches.  When  the  fritters  are  done  and 
drained,  sprinkle  sugar  over  them. 

FRUIT  CUSTARD  FRITTERS. 

For  fruit  syrup  use  either  the  juice  of  any  canned  or  preserved  fruit,  or  make  a  syrup  of 
fresh  fruit  as  follows:  Pick  over  a  pound  of  any  juicy  fruit,  put  it  into  the  preserving  ket- 
tle with  a  pound  of  granulated  sugar,  boil  it  until  the  sugar  is  all  dissolved  and  the  juice 
of  the  fruit  runs  freely;  then  strain  the  syrup  through  a  fine  sieve  or  a  jelly-bag,  and  cool 
it  before  using  it  for  the  fritters.  Put  into  an  earthen  bowl  half  a  pint  each  of  fruit  syrup 
and  milk,  and  mix  them  thoroughly  with  an  egg  whip;  then  add  half  a  pound  of  granu- 
lated sugar  and  six  eggs,  one  at  a  time,  beating  the  mixture  constantly  while  the  eggs  are 
being  added;  strain  the  custard  thus  made,  put  it  into  a  shallow  earthen  dish  large  enough 
to  make  the  custard  an  inch  thick;  set  the  dish  in  a  pan  of  hot  water  and  put  it  into  a 
moderate  oven;  watch  the  custard,  and  occasionally  test  it  by  running  a  small  knife  blade 
or  a  broom  straw  into  it;  as  soon  as  it  does  not  adhere  to  the  knife  or  straw  it  is  done; 
take  the  custard  from  the  oven,  and  cool  it  in  the  dish  in  which  it  was  baked.  When  the 
custard  is  cool  put  over  the  fire  a  fry  ing-kettle  half  full  of  fat  to  heat;  turn  the  custard 
from  the  dish  upon  a  pastry  board  covered  thickly  with  fine  bread-crumbs,  and  cut  it  in 
pieces  about  two  inches  long  and  one  inch  wide,  or  in  any  fanciful  shape;  roll  the  pieces 
of  custard  in  the  crumbs,  dip  them  in  beaten  egg,  and  again  in  the  crumbs,  and  then  fry 
them  golden  brown  in  the  hot  fat,  putting  them  in  when  it  begins  to  smoke;  when  the 
fritters  are  fried  a  golden  brown  take  them  out  of  the  fat  with  a  skimmer,  lay  them  on 
brown  paper  for  a  moment  to  free  them  from  grease,  and  then  dust  them  with  powdered 
sugar  and  serve  them  hot. 

FLORIDA  ORANGE  FRITTERS. 

Peel  and  slice  two  or  three  oranges,  about  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  and  remove  the 
seeds,  taking  care  not  to  break  the  slices  or  squeeze  out  the  juice;  put  a  frying-kettle  over 
the  fire,  with  enough  fat  to  half  fill  it,  and  let  the  fat  get  smoking  hot;  put  a  cup  of  flour 
into  a  bowl  with  the  yolk  of  a  raw  egg,  a  level  teaspoon  of  salt  and  a  tablespoon  of 
good  olive  oil;  mix  these  ingredients  smoothly  together,  then  gradually  stir  in  enough 
water  to  make  a  batter  thick  enough  to  hold  a  drop  let  fall  from  the  mixing  spoon;  beat 
the  white  of  the  egg  to  a  stiff  froth,  mix  it  lightly  with  the  batter;  put  two  or  three 
slices  of  oranges  in  the  batter,  and  when  the  fat  begins  to  smoke  lift  them  from  the  batter 
with  a  fork,  drop  them  into  the  hot  fat,  and  try  them  golden  brown;  take  the  fritters  out 
of  the  fat  with  a  skimmer,  lay  them  for  a  moment  on  brown  paper  to  free  them  from 
grease,  and  then  dust  them  with  powdered  sugar,  and  serve  them  hot. 


SAUCES  FOR  PUDDINGS. 

R.  BRANDY    SAUCE. 

Put  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  into  a  large  bowl  and  beat  it  with  a  fork  unth  it  is 
smooth  and  soft,  gradually  mix  with  the  butter  a  cup  of  powdered  sugar,  beating  con- 
stantly; when  all  the  sugar  has  been  beaten  into  the  butter  add  the  white  of  an  egg  un- 
beaten and  beat  the  mixture  for  a  minute,  next  place  the  bowl  in  a  basin  of  warm  water, 
gradually  add  half  a  gill  each  of  brandy  and  boiling  water,  and  beat  the  sauce  for  two 
minutes  longer,  then  pour  it  into  a  sauce-bowl. 

CREAM  SAUCE. 

Beat  a  half  cup  of  fresh  butter  to  a  cream,  add  gradually  a  cup  of  powdered  sugar, 
beating  thoroughly  all  the  while;  when  all  is  reduced  to  a  light,  creamy  substance,  add 
gradually,  and  still  beating,  a  quarter  of  a  cup  of  rich  cream  and  a  teaspoon  of  vanilla 
extract.  This  is  inviting  and  delicious. 

NUN'S  BUTTER. 

Beat  and  stir  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  and  three  or  four  ounces  of  the  finest  pul- 
verized sugar  together  to  a  cream;  add  and  stir  well  in  a  tablespoon  of  brandy  and  flour, 
and  flavor  with  pure  vanilla  extract,  or  grated  nutmeg,  or  powdered  cinnamon. 

HARD  SAUCE. 

Beat  one  quarter  ot  a  pound  of  butter  to  a  cream,  add  gradually  one  pound  of  white 
sugar,  one  wineglass  brandy,  and  half  a  small  nutmeg;  beat  until  light  and  white,  and 
then  pile  up  in  a  pyramid;  set  it  on  ice  or  a  cool  place. 

SABYLLON. 

Beat  two  yolks  and  one  whole  egg  a  few  minutes  with  a  scant  half  teacup  of  sugar  in  a 
small  saucepan;  place  the  saucepan  into  another  containing  boiling  water  over  a  fire;  beat 
briskly  with  a  whisk  while  you  pour  in  gradually  a  scant  half  teacup  of  sherry  ;  when  the 
eggs  begin  to  thicken  remove  and  add  the  juice  of  half  of  a  lemon. 

SOUR  SAUCE. 

Half  a  cup  of  butter  and  stir  in  a  tablespoon  of  flour  and  one  pint  boiling  water,  nearly 
one  cup  of  sugar,  two  spoons  good  vinegar;  spice  to  taste. 

STRAWBERRY   SAUCE. 

«)ne  cup  sugar,  half  cup  butter;  beat  them  well  together  and  add  a  cup  of  strawberries, 
well  mashed. 
R.  WINE  SAUCE. 

One  half  pint  of  Madeira  wine,  one-fourth  pint  of  sugar,  yolks  of  six  eggs,  dessert-spoon 
of  lemon  juice  or  vanilla  to  taste.  Dissolve  the  sugar  in  the  wine;  make  it  hot  but  do  not 
let  it  boil;  pour  it  hot  over  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  well  beaten;  keep  it  over  the  fire  until  it 
is  well  thickened  and  highly  frothed,  then  add  the  flavoring. 

163 


DESSERT. 

There's  half  a  dozen  sweets. 

— LOVE'S  LABOR  LOST. 
The  hero  is  not  fed  on  sweets, 
Daily  his  own  heart  he  eats. 

— EMERSON. 
AMBROSIA. 

One  pine-apple  chopped  quite  fine,  half  box  of  strawberries,  six  bananas  and  six  oranges 
sliced  and  the  slices  quartered,  one  lemon  cut  fine.  Sweeten  to  taste  ;  add  one  wineglass 
of  sherry  or  Madeira,  and  set  away  until  very  cold. 

BLANC-MANGE. 

One  tablespoon  and  a  half  of  sea-moss  farina,  three  pints  of  milk,  four  tablespoons  of 
sugar,  half  a  teaspoon  of  salt,  one  teaspoon  of  extract  of  vanilla  or  of  lemon.  Put  the  farina 
with  the  milk  and  let  it  stand  in  a  cold  place  for  two  hours  ;  then  put  it  in  the  double 
boiler,  and  heat  quickly.  Do  not  let  it  boil.  Stir  often;  and  as  soon  as  the  farina  is  melted, 
take  off,  and  add  the  sugar,  salt  and  flavor.  Strain  and  partially  cool  before  putting  it 
into  the  moulds.  It  should  stand  six  hours  before  serving,  and  it  is  even  better,  especially 
in  summer,  to  make  it  the  day  before  using. 

CHOCOLATE  AND  COFFEE  CUSTARD. 

Chocolate  and  coffee  custards  are  made  by  incorporating  chocolate  with,  or  adding 
strong  coffee  to,  the  milk  which  enters  into  custard. 

BAVARIAN   CREAM. 

Whip  a  pint  of  cold  cream  to  a  froth,  which  will  lie  on  a  sieve.  Boil  another  pint  of 
cream,  or  rich  milk,  with  a  vanilfa  bean  and  two  tablespoons  of  sugar,  until  it  is  well 
flavored.  Remove  it  and  add  half  a  box  of  gelatine,  which  has  soaked  an  hour  in  half  a 
cup  of  water  in  a  warm  place.  When  slightly  cooled  stir  in  the  well-beaten  yolks  of  four 
eggs.  When  it  has  become  quite  cold  and  begins  to  thicken,  stir  without  cessation  until 
it  is  very  smooth.  Then  stir  in  the  whipped  cream  lightly  until  well  mixed.  Place  in 
moulds  and  set  on  ice,  or  in  a  cool  spot.  To  this  you  can  add  almonds,  chocolate,  peaches, 
pine-apples,  strawberries,  or  any  seasonable  fruit. 

BOILED   CUSTARD. 

Beat  the  yolks  of  five  eggs  and  five  dessert-spoons  of  sugar  to  a  froth,  and  stir  into  a 
quart  of  boiled  milk.  Put  into  a  double  custard  boiler,  of  boiling  water,  stirring  con- 
stantly till  thickening  commences.  If  it  be  well  stirred,  the  custard  will  be  a  smooth 
cream  ;  but  not  otherwise.  Add  flavors  after  it  is  cooked;  except  a  vanilla  bean,  or  peach 
leaves,  which  cook  with  the  custard. 

BOSTON  BAKED    CUSTARD. 

Pour  a  quart  of  hot  milk  over  five  well-beaten  eggs.     Add  a  teaspoon  of  butter.     Season 
with  vanilla,  rose  water,  or  nutmeg,  and  sweeten  to  taste.     Bake  in  cups  or  pudding  dish. 
164 


DESSERT.  165 

CHARLOTTE    RUSSE. 

Dissolve  one  ounce  of  good  isinglass  in  a  cup  of  new  milk  ;  beat  the  yolks  of  six  eggs 
and  one  pound  of  fine  sugar  together  ;  whip  to  a  froth  one  pint  of  good  cream,  and  beat 
to  a  froth  the  whites  of  twelve  eggs.  Strain  the  isinglass  into  the  yolks  ;  add  the  cream, 
then  the  whites,  and  beat  it  altogether  lightly.  Flavor  it  with  vanilla  ;  set  it  on  the  ice  to 
stiffen  a  little;  line  the  moulds  with  spongecake;  turn  in  the  cream,  and  set  in  the  ice  five 
or  six  hours. 
R.  FLOATING  ISLAND. 

One  pint  milk,  three  eggs,  three  heaping  teaspoons  sugar.  Beat  the  yolks  of  the  eggs 
well;  add  the  milk  and  heat  while  stirring  till  it  thickens  a  little — like  cream;  then  remove 
it  at  once;  beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  froth,  put  on  the  top  of  the  custard  in  round 
shapes  like  little  islands,  and  set  in  a  cool  place.  Sometimes  the  froth  is  set  in  the 
oven  an  instant  to  stiffen  it  so  that  it  will  better  keep  in  place.  To  be  eaten  cold. 

"HOME  PYRAMID  OF  KISSES." 

Make  a  pasteboard  frame,  and  stick  the  kisses  together  as  fast  as  they  come  from  the 
oven;  as  soon  as  cold,  or  just  before  using,  remove  the  form  carefully. 

FRUIT  GLACE. 

Boil  together  for  half  an  hour,  one  cup  of  granulated  sugar  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon; 
dip  the  point  of  a  skewer  into  the  syrup  and  then  into  water,  and  if  the  thread  thus  formed 
breaks  off  brittle,  the  syrup  is  ready  for  the  use  on  fruit.  Pare  some  oranges,  divide  them 
into  eighths,  and  wipe  the  parts  free  from  moisture;  part  of  the  syrup  turn  into  a  small  cup, 
which  put  in  a  basin  of  boiling  water;  take  the  pieces  of  orange  up  separately  on  the  point 
of  a  skewer  and  dip  them  into  the  syrup,  and  afterwards  place  on  a  dish  that  had  been 
buttered  slightly.  Grapes  and  nuts  can  be  prepared  the  same  way.  Special  pains  must 
be  taken  to  avoid  stirring  the  syrup,  for  stirring  will  spoil  it. 

B.  RUSSIAN  CREAM. 

Half  a  box  of  best  gelatine,  cover  with  cold  water  fifteen  minutes,  one  quart  of  milk, 
four  eggs,  one  cup  of  sugar;  beat  yolks  and  sugar  together,  stir  in  the  gelatine  and  pour 
into  the  milk  when  boiling;  let  it  cook  a  little  more  than  custard;  let  it  cool  a  little  and 
stir  in  the  whites  of  the  eggs  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth  and  pour  into  moulds,  rinsed  in  cold 
water,  and  place  them  on  the  ice.  When  ready  to  serve,  loosen  the  edge,  lay  a  small 
platter  over  the  mould,  and  turn  it  upside  down;  shake  the  mould  if  the  cream  does  not 
come  out  easily,  but  be  careful  to  keep  it  in  the  centre  of  the  platter. 

B.  TAPIOCA  CREAM. 

Four  tablespoons  tapioca  soaked  over  night  in  one  gill  of  cold  water,  boil  one  quart  of 
milk,  add  the  tapioca,  let  it  boil,  add  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  beaten  well  with  half  pint  of 
crushed  sugar,  boil  and  stir  until  like  thick  custard,  flavor  and  turn  into  a  dish;  when 
cold,  cover  with  the  whites  of  the  eggs  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth  with  four  tablespoons  of 
sugar;  brown  lightly.  To  be  eaten  cold. 


ICES. 

PREPARATION   SUITABLE    FOR    ALL    ICE  CREAMS. 

This  foundation  is  suitable  for  all  kinds  of  ice  cream.  Having  heated  a  generous  pint  of  milk  to  the  boil- 
point,  stir  into  it  a  cup  of  sugar,  a  scant  cup  of  flour  and  two  eggs,  all  beaten  together  ;  and  the  mixture 
allowed  to  cook  twenty  minutes  longer,  stirring  it  frequently.  Strain  the  mixture  into  the  freezer 

DIRECTIONS   FOR    PACKING    ICE   CREAM. 

The  ice  should  be  broken  the  size  of  a  walnut.  After  the  can  containing  the  cream  has  been 
properly  adjusted  in  the  freezer,  a  layer  of  ice  five  inches  deep  should  be  packed  around  it. 
A  liberal  sprinkling  of  rock  salt  should  be  added  next.  Continue  with  alternate  layers  of  ice  and  salt 
until  the  tub  is  full  ;  the  packing  being  pounded  with  a  paddle.  The  crank  of  the  freezer  being  turned  a 
few  times,  causes  the  ice  to  settle  somewhat,  and  more  should  be  added.  For  if  the  packing  be  solid 
at  first  there  need  be  no  repacking.  Especial  stress  is  laid  on  the  fact  that  the  water  must  not  be  drawn 
off.  It  fills  all  the  crevices  and  gives  the  can  a  complete  cold  envelope.  For  a  gallon  freezer  about  ten 
quarts  of  ice  and  three  pints  of  salt  are  required.  With  more  salt  it  will  take  less  time  to  freeze,  but  the 
cream  will  not  be  so  smooth.  At  first  the  crank  should  not  be  turned  very  fast,  but  the  speed  should  be 
increased  as  the  work  becomes  harder.  When  the  cream  is  frozen — as  indicated  by  the  extreme  difficulty 
with  which  the  crank  is  turned — wipe  the  salt  and  ice  from  the  cover  of  the  can  and  remove  the  cover  without 
displacing  the  can  itself.  Remove  the  beater  and  scrape  the  ice  cream  from  it.  With  a  large  spoon  work  up 
and  down  in  the  can  until  the  cream  is  light,  and  the  space  left  vacant  by  the  removal  of  the  beater  is  filled. 
Replace  the  cover  of  the  can,  put  a  cork  in  the  hole  from  which  the  handle  of  the  beater  was  taken.  Set  the 
freezer  in  a  cool  place.  When  the  cream  is  to  be  served,  place  the  can  for  a  few  seconds  in  a  pan  of  warm 
water  so  that  the  heat  causes  the  cream  to  slip  out  easily  upon  a  dish.  If  the  cream  is  to  be  moulded,  it  should 
be  removed  from  the  can  when  the  beater  is  taken  out  ;  and  when  it  is  put  into  the  mould  it  should  be  worked 
up  and  down  with  a  spoon,  so  that  it  shall  be  lightened,  and  worked  into  every  part  of  the  mould  as  well.  A 
sheet  of  white  paper  should  be  placed  over  the  cream  before  the  cover  of  the  mould  is  put  on,  and  the  mould 
should  be  repacked  in  fresh  ice  and  salt. 

CARAMEL    ICE    CREAM. 

Put  a  small  cup  of  sugar  into  a  small  frying-pan  and  stir  over  the  fire  until  it  turns  liquid  and  begins  to 
smoke,  then  turn  it  into  the  boiling  mixture  or  foundation,  which  put  away  to  cool.  When  it  becomes  cold 
Add  a  quart  of  cream.  The  flavor  of  the  ice  cream  can  be  varied  by  browning  the  sugar  more  or  less.  Strain 
the  mixture  in  a  freezer. 

COFFEE  ICE  CREAM. 

Pound  two  ounces  of  freshly  roasted  coffee  in  a  mortar,  just  enough  to  thoroughly  crush 
the  berries  without  reducing  them  to  powder.  Put  them  into  a  pint  of  milk  with  six 
ounces  of  loaf  sugar  ;  let  boil,  then  leave  it  to  get  cold;  strain  it  on  the  yolks  of  six 
eggs  in  a  double  kettle,  and  stir  on  the  fire  until  the  custard  thickens.  Be  sure  that 
it  does  not  curdle.  When  quite  cold  work  into  it  a  gill  and  a  half  of  cream  whipped 
to  a  froth.  Freeze  the  mixture  in  the  ice-cream  freezer,  then  fill  a  plain  mould  with  it 
and  put  it  in  the  freezer  till  time  to  serve  it.  This  is  a  delicious  dessert  in  hot  weather. 

B.  LEMON  ICE  CREAM. 

Half    a    box    of   gelatine    dissolved    in    a    little    water,    strain  and  pour   over    half   a 
pint  of  boiling  milk,  add  one  quart  of  cream,  two  quarts  of  milk.     The  rind  of  a  lemon 
grated  in  while  boiling;  juice  added  while  it  is  freezing. 
166 


ICES.  167 

PEACH  ICE  CREAM. 

Select  rich,  ripe  peaches,  peel  and  mash  them  to  a  pulp;  make  them  very  sweet;  a 
pound  or  more  of  sugar  to  a  pound  of  fruit,  and  add  to  every  pint  a  pint  of  cream. 
Remember  in  using  sugar  that  much  sweetness  is  lost  in  the  freezing.  Coddled  apples 
may  be  used  in  the  same  way. 

PINE-APPLE  ICE  CREAM. 
Choose  a  very  ripe  pine-apple,  pare  it,  take  out  all  the  eyes,  then  grate  it,  and  make  after 

the  above  rule. 

PISTACHE  ICE  CREAM. 

To  prepare  pistache  nuts  for  ice  cream,  pour  boiling  water  over  them;  let  them  stand 
a  few  moments,  drain,  and  cover  again  with  boiling  water,  when  the  skins  will  slip  off 
quite  easily.  They  are  then  pounded  to  a  paste  in  a  mortar  and  mixed  with  the  cream. 

STRAWBERRY  ICE  CREAM. 

Pour  a  pint  of  scalding  milk  on  a  well-beaten  egg  and  an  even  tablespoon  of  corn- 
starch  mixed  smooth  in  a  little  cold  milk  ;  stir  it  over  boiling  water  until  it  begins  to 
thicken;  when  cold,  mix  it  with  a  pint  of  strawberries  that  have  been  mashed  with  a  half 
pound  of  sugar  and  rubbed  through  a  colander. 

CURRANT  ICE. 

To  one  pint  of  currant  juice  add  one  pound  of  sugar,  and  one  pint  of  water;  when 
partly  frozen,  add  the  whites  of  three  eggs  whisked  to  a  stiff  froth. 

LEMON  ICE. 

To  one  pint  of  lemon  juice  add  one  quart  of  sugar,  and  one  quart  of  water  in  which 
the  thin  rind  of  three  lemons  has  been  steeped  until  highly  flavored;  when  partly  frozen, 
add  the  whites  of  four  eggs  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth. 

ORANGE  ICE. 

Grate  the  rind  of  four  oranges  and  steep  it  ten  minutes  in  a  pint  and  a  gill  of  water; 
strain  a  pint  of  the  water  on  one  pound  of  sugar,  add  a  pint  of  orange  juice,  and  when 
cold,  pour  it  into  a  freezer,  and  freeze;  when  half  frozen,  add  the  whites  of  four  eggs 

whisked  to  a  stiff  froth. 

PINE-APPLE  ICE. 

Pare  good,  ripe  pine-apples  and  cut  out  the  eyes;  grate  them  and  pass  the  pulp  through 
the  colander;  to  one  quart  of  this  add  one  and  a  quarter  pounds  of  sugar  and  one  pint 
of  water;  whisk  the  whites  of  two  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth  and  add  the  above  little  by  little, 
beating  well  to  make  them  mix;  freeze. 

STRAWBERRY  ICE. 

Crush  two  quarts  of  strawberries  with  two  pounds  of  sugar;  let  them  stand  an  hour 
or  more,  squeeze  them  in  a  straining  cloth,  pressing  out  all  the  juice;  add  to  it  an  equal 
measure  of  water,  and  when  half  frozen  add  the  whisked  whites  in  the  proportion  of  three 

to  a  quart. 

TUTTI    FRUTTI. 

Rich  vanilla  cream  with  cherries,  raisins,  currants  and  citron.  Fruit  to  be  added  when 
the  cream  is  nearly  frozen. 


BEVERAGES. 

TEA. 

•  THe  •  WATeR  •  BoILING  .  Be» 
FILLING  .  THe  .  TeA  .  PoT  .  SP^LS  .  THe  •  TeA.  "  Molly,  put  the  kettle  on, 

Molly,  put  the  kettle  on, 
Molly,  put  the  kettle  on, 
And  we'll  all  take  tea." 

"  The  water  in  which  the  tea  is  steeped  must  be  boiling. 
The  water  used  for  filling  the  pot  must  be  boiling. 

I  speak  within  bounds  when  I  say  that  I  could  tell  on  the  fingers  of  my  two  hands  the  tables  at  which  I 
have  drunk  really  good,  hot,  frech  tea.  Sometimes  it  is  made  with  boiling  water,  then  allowed  to  simmer  on 
the  range  or  hob  until  the  decoction  is  rank,  reedy  and  bitter.  Sometimes  too  little  tea  is  put  in,  and  the 
beverage,  while  hot  enough,  is  but  faintly  colored  and  flavored. 

Oftenest  of  all,  the  tea  is  made  with  unboiled  water,  or  with  water  that  did  boil  once,  but  is  now  flat  and 
many  degrees  below  the  point  of  ebullition. 

Scald  the  china,  or  silver,  or  tin  teapot  from  which  the  beverage  is  to  flow  directly  into  the  cups  ;  put  in 
an  even  teaspoon  of  tea  for  each  person  who  is  to  partake  of  it,  pour  in  a  half-cup  of  boiling  water  and  cover 
the  pot  with  a  cozy  or  napkin  for  five  minutes.  Then,  fill  up  with  boiling  water  from  the  kettle  and  take  to 
the  table.  Fill  the  cups  within  three  minutes  or  so  and  you  have  the  fresh  aroma  of  the  delicious  herb." 

BEAUTY  BEHIND  THE  TEAPOT. 

The  teapot  simmers  in  scores  of  houses  every  afternoon,  and  tea-drinking  is  now  the  popular  mania  and 
dissipation.  In  some  houses  one  member  of  the  family  is  generally  kept  busy  occupied  all  the  afternoon  in 
making  and  pouring  tea,  and  of  Miss  Tillie  Frelinghuysen,  who  is  always  enthroned  behind  her  tea-table  at 
entertainments  in  her  father's  house,  Mr.  George  Bancroft  says  that  she  is  entitled  to  a  coat-of-arms  all  her 
own,  bearing  the  device  of  a  teapot.  A  pretty  woman  never  looks  better  than  when  seated  behind  a  tea-table, 
set  with  a  shining  equipage  and  rows  of  dainty  cups.  English  breakfast  tea  is  the  fashionable  leaf  now,  and 
as  many  of  the  fair  brewers  say,  there  is  more  pleasure  in  making  than  in  drinking  that  herb-flavored  stuff. 
In  general  the  tea  is  steeped  in  a  small  silver  pot  and  made  of  triple  strength,  so  that  each  cup  has  to  be  filled 
up  with  boiling  water  from  the  silver  or  brass  teapot  that  is  always  steaming  over  an  alcohol  lamp  in  the 
middle  of  the  table.  Mrs.  Ilitt  and  Mrs.  Adams,  whose  teas  are  famous,  make  each  cup  separately,  the  dry 
tea  leaves  being  put  in  a  perforated  silver  ball  pendent  from  a  long  chain.  The  ball  is  dropped  in  the  cup, 
boiling  water  poured  in  and  the  tea  ball  is  stirred  about  until  the  decoction  assumes  the  right  color  and 
strength.  This  is  quite  the  prettiest  way  of  making  tea,  and  girls  who  appreciate  the  chance  for  coquetries 
and  tableaux  that  the  rite  affords,  are  enamored  with  the  tea  ball,  providing  always  that  there  is  some  gallant 
man  about  to  handle  the  burning  silver  when  it  is  necessary  to  empty  and  refill  the  ball.  Huge  brass  somovars 
for  boiling  water  on  the  table  have  been  brought  over  from  Russia  for  several  families,  but  the  bother  of 
lighting  the  charcoal  in  the  central  cylinder  and  getting  steam  up  in  time  renders  them  really  a  nuisance  to  the 
owners.  The  wife  of  the  Russian  Minister  banishes  the  somovar  from  her  tea-table  and  substitutes  a  pretty 
silver  pot  over  an  alcohol  flame. —  Washington  Letter. 
1 68 


BEVERAGES.  169 

THE  STYLE  IN  TEA. 

CHEESE   STRAWS  AND   SALTED   ALMONDS. 

There  are  some  conservatives  who  still  take  sugar  and  even  cream  in  their  tea,  but  these  heresies  are  fast 
giving  way  to  the  newer  styles.  The  real  connoisseur  takes  his  tea  without  any  modifications,  and  fashion, 
although  it  allows  a  lump  of  sugar,  rather  ordains  a  slice  of  lemon  or  a  spoonful  of  preserves,  according  to 
Russian  style.  About  half  the  people  who  sip  tea  these  afternoons  do  it  because  it  is  the  fashion,  and  not 
because  they  care  for  the  drink  itself.  Last  season  the  cheese  straws  were  prominent  on  every  tea  table,  and 
the  indigestible  little  strips  of  pie-crust  filled  with  grated  cheese  and  sprinkled  with  red  pepper  were  supposed 
to  be  just  the  thing  to  spur  up  a  jaded  appetite.  This  year  the  salted  almond  is  the  favorite  dish  of  the  after- 
noon nibblers,  and  confectioners  are  doing  a  great  business  in  roasting  almonds  and  then  turning  them  over  in 
a  pan  with  a  little  butter  and  a  great  deal  of  salt.  A  man  who  knows  tells  me  that  there  is  nothing  like  the 
almond  anyhow  to  clear  the  brain  and  steady  the  tongue  when  there  have  been  loo  many  wines  at  dinner,  and 
the  salted  almond  is  even  more  of  a  restorative  than  the  fresh  nut.  The  almonds  are  naturally  prominent  on 
every  dinner  table  and  now  have  found  their  way  to  the  tea  tray  to  clear  the  Clouded  brain  of  tea  drinkers. 

A  CUP  OF  GOOD   COFFEE. 

"  It  is  one  of  the  simplest  things  in  the  world  to  make  a  cup  of  good  coffee,  and  this  can  easily  b«  accom- 
plished by  using  a  little  common  sense.  If  you  put  boiling  water  on  coffee  and  not  let  it  boil,  you  will  have 
all  the  good  qualities  preserved.  One  reason  why  dyspeptics  cannot  drink  coffee  is  because  it  is  boiled.  The 
style  of  coffee-pot  is  just  a  matter  of  fancy.  I  have  made  as  good  coffee  in  an  old  tomato  can  as  I  have  ever 
sipped  from  a  cup  filled  from  the  finest  French  coffee  urn.  We  should  take  lessons  in  these  matters  from  the 
Turks  and  Arabians,  who  grind  their  coffee  to  a  fine  powder.  When  the  coffee  is  ground  as  fine  as  possible 
put  it  into  a  little  bag  of  unbleached  muslin,  which  should  be  tied  tightly  enough  to  prevent  the  escape  of  the 
grounds.  If  you  use  a  cup  of  unground  coffee  you  can  make  over  a  quart  of  very  strong,  black  coffee.  In 
making  coffee  many  persons  sacrifice  flavor  for  strength.  Bitterness  comes  from  boiling.  When  boiling 
water  is  placed  on  the  bag  of  ground  coffee  it  should  stand  at  least  three  minutes  before  serving.  Remember 
the  longer  it  stands  the  stronger  it  becomes.  Be  careful  not  to  allow  the  watered  coffee  to  boil." 

K.  COFFEE  AS  IN  FRANCE. 

Coffee  should  be  roasted  of  a  cinnamon  color,  and  coarsely  ground  when  cool.  For  one  pint  of  boiling 
water  take  two  ounces  and  a  half  of  coffee.  Put  the  coffee  into  boiling  water;  close  the  coffee-pot,  and  leave  it  for 
two  hours  on  a  trivet  over  the  fire,  so  as  to  keep  up  the  heat  without  making  it  boil.  Stir  now  and  then,  and 
after  two  hours  remove  it  from  over  the  fire  and  allow  it  a  quarter  of  an  hour  to  stand  near  the  fire,  to  settle. 
Then  pour  it  off  to  serve.  Loaf  sugar  should  be  used  for  coffee. 

R.  BROMA. 

One  cup  of  hot  water,  one  cup  of  milk,  one  even  tablespoon  of  broma;  save  a  little  of 
the  warm  milk  and  water  in  which  to  dissolve  the  broma.  When  the  milk  and  water  boil, 
pour  in  the  dissolved  broma,  and  boil  two  minutes,  stirring  a  little.  This  is  a  delicious 

drink. 

CHOCOLATE. 

In  preparing  chocolate  cut  off  two  inches  in  length  of  the  cake  to  one  quart  of  water; 
stir  it  in  a  little  cold  water  till  soft,  then  pour  on  the  boiling  water;  after  it  has  boiled  a 
short  time,  add  a  pint  of  milk,  bring  to  a  boil,  and  then  serve.  The  French  put  two  cups 
of  boiling  water  to  each  cup  of  chocolate.  They  throw  in  the  chocolate,  just  as  the  water 
commences  to  boil.  Stir  it  with  a  spoon  so  soon  as  it  boils  up,  add  two  cups  of  good 
milk,  and,  when  it  has  boiled  sufficiently  to  cook,  serve. 


i7o  BEVERAGES. 

P.  ELDERBERRY' WINE. 

Two  quarts  of  the  juice  of  the  berries,  three  pounds  of  sugar,  two  quarts  of  water  ;  stir 
all  together  and  put  in  a  jug,  keep  it  full  with  extra  juice  till  it  is  done  working,  then 
scald  and  put  in  a  jug,  cork  when  cold  and  keep  in  a  cold  place. 

HOT  APPLE  TODDY. 

Take  the  pulp  from  a  hot  baked  apple  of  medium  size,  using  a  teaspoon  to  free  it  from 
skin  and  core;  put  it  into  a  tumbler,  with  an  equal  measure  of  apple-jack,  a  pleasant  addi- 
tion of  sugar  and  grated  nutmeg,  and  a  little  boiling  water.  A  usual  proportion  for  a 
single  toddy  is  one  finger  of  baked  apple,  two  each  of  apple-jack  and  boiling  water,  a 
tablespoon  of  sugar,  and  a  grate  of  nutmeg  on  the  top. 

HOT   COFFEE  AND  SODA. 

For  temperance  advocates  hot  black  coffee  mixed  with  soda,  is  a  good  substitute  for  the 
spirituous  winter  drinks;  make  black  coffee  as  follows:  Quarter  of  a  pound  of  good  coffee 
infused  in  boiling  water,  but  not  boiled,  will  make  medium  strong  coffee.  Use  hot  black 
coffee  and  soda  in  equal  proportions,  with  a  palatable  addition  of  cream  syrup,  or 
condensed  milk  and  sugar. 

PEACH  AND  HONEY. 

A  good  winter  drink  is  made  by  mixing  together  one  tablespoon  of  honey  and  a  wine- 
glass of  peach  brandy. 

ROMAN  PUNCH. 

Grate  the  rinds  of  four  lemons  and  two  oranges  in  two  pounds  of  white  sugar,  adding 
their  juice;  cover  and  let  stand  until  next  day,  when  strain  through  a  sieve,  adding  a 
bottle  of  champagne  and  the  whites  of  eight  eggs  beaten  very  stiff;  freeze  like  ice  cream. 

SOUTHERN  EGG-NOGG. 

Beat  thoroughly  the  yolks  of  eight  eggs,  with  one  pound  of  granulated  sugar,  with 
which  mix  one  half  gallon  of  fresh,  rich  milk;  then  pour  upon  it,  very  slowly,  stirring  the 
eggs  and  milk  briskly,  a  pint  and  a  half  of  best  Jamaica  rum;  if  not  sweet  enough,  add 
more  sugar;  have  ready  the  whites  of  the  eggs,  beaten  to  a  froth,  with  a  little  pulverized 
sugar;  stir  in  about  one  half;  put  the  other  on  top;  place  it  on  ice.  This  is  first-class 
Virginia  egg-nogg. 

RASPBERRY  SHERBET. 

Two  quarts  of  raspberries,  one  cup  of  sugar,  one  pint  and  a  half  of  water,  the  juice 
of  a  large  lemon,  one  tablespoon  of  gelatine.  Mash  the  sugar  and  berries  together  and 
let  them  stand  two  hours.  Soak  the  gelatine  in  cold  water  to  cover.  Add  one  pint  of 
the  water  to  the  berries,  and  strain.  Dissolve  the  gelatine  in  half  the  water,  add  this  to 
the  strained  mixture  and  freeze. 


FOOD    FOR   THE    SICK. 

MILK. 

When  using  milk  in  dishes  for  the  sick,  the  disease  of  the  persons  \Vho  are  to  consume  the  food  should  be 
considered.  Long  boiling  hardens  the  albumen  and  makes  the  milk  constipating  ;  hence,  if  the  patient  be 
already  constipated,  great  care  should  be  exercised  not  to  allow  the  milk  or  cream  to  heat  above  the  boiling 
point;  also  one  cannot  use  seasoning  for  a  sick  person  that  would  suit  a  well  person.  More  salt  and  acid  can 
and  should  be  used  in  most  cases  when  seasoning  food  for  the  sick,  while  less  sugar  or  other  sweet  flavor 
should  be  used.  Do  not  send  a  too  bountiful  supply  of  food  to  the  patient,  nor  set  any  one  dish  before  him 
frequently  just  because  it  has  tasted  especially  good  at  first.  We  emphasize  the  desirability  of  serving  all 
dishes  in  the  daintiest  and  most  attractive  ways,  so  as  to  induce  an  appetite  which  may  be  dormant. 

GRUEL  OF  BOILED  FLOUR. 

Make  a  bag  of  white  cotton  cloth  about  six  inches  long,  and  four  inches  wide  ;  fill 
it  with  white  flour  pressed  down  hard;  tie  up  the  bag  firmly.  Put  it  into  boiling  water  ; 
boil  four  hours;  take  it  out  of  the  bag,  remove  the  wet  skin,  and  a  hard  white  ball 
will  be  left  which,  if  kept  in  a  dry  place,  will  be  good  several  months.  Grate  a  little 
of  it,  stir  it  up  in  a  little  milk  or  water,  then  cook  it  in  boiling  water  or1  milk  about  four 
minutes,  stirring  constantly.  It  is  more  palatable  made  with  milk.  This  is  excellent  for 
diarrhoea,  but  must  be  used  cautiously  at  first,  for  it  is  medicine  as  well  as  food. 

APPLE  PIE  FOR  THE  SICK. 

Slice  up  one  or  more  nice,  tart  apples,  in  a  saucer,  sweeten  with  white  sugar,  and  cover 
with  a  moderately  thick  slice  of  bread,  buttered  slightly  on  the  underside;  when  the  bread 
is  browned,  the  apples,  if  of  a  tender  kind,  and  thinly  sliced,  will  be  done. 

APPLE  WATER. 

One  large  juicy  pippin,  three  cups  of  cold  water — one  quart  if  the  apple  is  very  large; 
pare  and  quarter  the  apple,  but  do  not  core  it;  put  it  on  the  fire  in  a  tin  or  porcelain 
saucepan  with  the  water,  and  boil,  closely  covered,  until  the  apple  stews  to  pieces; 
strain  the  liquor  at  once,  pressing  the  apple  hard  in  the  cloth;  strain  this  again  through 
a  finer  bag,  and  set  away  to  cool;  sweeten  with  white  sugar,  and  ice  for  drinking. 

BEEF  STEAK  AND  MUTTON  CHOPS. 

Choose  the  tenderest  cuts  and  broil  over  a  clear  hot  fire  with  your  wisest  skill.  Let  the 
steak  be  rare,  the  chops  well  done.  Salt  and  pepper;  lay  between  two  hot  plates  three 
minutes,  and  serve  to  your  patient.  If  he  is  very  weak,  do  not  let  him  swallow  anything 
except  the  juice,  when  he  has  chewed  the  meat  well.  The  essence  of  rare  beef,  roasted 
or  broiled,  thus  expressed,  is  considered  by  some  physicians  to  be  more  strengthening 
than  beef  tea  prepared  in  the  usual  manner. 

BOILED  RICE. 

Half  a  cup  of  whole  rice,  boiled  in  just  enough  water  to  cover  it,  one  cup  of  milk,  a  little 
salt,  one  egg,  beaten  light.  When  the  rice  is  nearly  done,  turn  off  the  water,  add  the  milk 
and  simmer,  taking  care  it  does  not  scorch,  until  the  milk  boils  up  well.  Salt,  and  bea« 
in  the  egg.  Eat  warm  with  cream,  sugar,  and  nutmeg. 

171 


172  HOME    DISSERTATIONS. 

BEEF  TEA  FOR  THE  SICK. 

One  pound  lean  beef,  cut  into  small  pieces.  Put  into  jar  without  a  drop  of  water, 
cover  tightly,  set  in  a  kettle  of  cold  water.  Heat  gradually  to  a  boil,  and  continue  this 
steadily  for  three  or  four  hours,  until  the  meat  is  like  white  rags,  and  the  juice  all  drawn 
out.  Season  with  salt  to  taste,  and  when  cold,  skim.  The  patient  will  often  prefer  this 

ice-cold  to  hot. 

CELERY  CURES  RHEUMATISM. 

"  New  discoveries — or  what  claims  to  be  discoveries — of  the  healing  virtues  of  plants  are  continually  being 
made.  One  of  the  latest  is  that  celery  is  a  cure  for  rheumatism  ;  indeed,  it  is  asserted  the  disease  is  impossible 
if  the  vegetable  be  cooked  and  freely  eaten.  The  fact  that  it  is  always  put  on  the  table  raw  prevents  its 
therapeutic  powers  from  being  known.  The  celery  should  be  cut  into  bits,  boiled  in  water  until  soft,  and  the 
water  drank  by  the  patient.  Serve  warm  with  pieces  of  toasted  bread,  and  the  painful  ailment  will  soon  yield. 
Such  is  the  declaration  of  a  physician  who  has  again  and  again  tried  the  experiment,  and  with  uniform  success. 
At  least  two-thirds  of  the  cases  named  '  heart  disease  '  are  ascribed  to  rheumatism  and  its  agonizing  ally,  gout. 
Here,  in  Germany,  we  boil  the  roots  and  stalks,  as  the  root  is  the  principal  part  of  it,  and  afterwards  eat  it  as 
salad,  with  oil  and  vinegar.  I  received  such  immediate  benefit  that  I  am  anxious  to  let  all  the  rheumatic 
sufferers  know  of  it." — German  Correspondent 

BACKER  GRUEL. 

A  scant  half-pint  of  boiling  water  poured  upon  four  tablespoons  of  powdered  cracker, 
and,  after  a  pint  of  milk  and  half  a  teaspoon  of  salt  is  added,  the  mixture  should  be 

stirred  until  it  boils  up  once. 

EGG-NOGG. 

The  white  of  an  egg  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth  ;  a  teaspoon  of  sugar  beaten  in  ;  then  the 
yolk  of  the  egg,  and  finally  a  tablespoon  each  of  milk,  water  and  wine. 

PANADA. 

Six  Boston  crackers,  split,  two  tablespoons  white  sugar,  a  good  pinch  of  salt,  and  a  little 
nutmeg,  enough  boiling  water  to  cover  them  well;  split  the  crackers,  and  pile  in  a  bowl  in 
layers,  salt  and  sugar  scattered  among  them  ;  cover  with  boiling  water  and  set  on  the 
hearth,  with  a  close  top  over  the  bowl,  for  at  least  one  hour.  The  crackers  should  be 
almost  clear  and  soft  as  jelly,  but  not  broken.  Eat  from  the  bowl,  with  more  sugar  sprin- 
kled in  if  you  wish  it.  If  properly  made,  this  panada  is  very  nice. 

PORTEREE. 

Pint  bottle  of  porter,  two  glasses  pale  sherry,  one  lemon  peeled  and  sliced,  half 
pint  of  ice-water,  six  or  eight  lumps  loaf  sugar,  half  of  a  grated  nutmeg,  pounded  ice. 
This  mixture  has  been  used  satisfactorily  by  invalids,  for  whom  the  pure  porter  was  too 
heavy,  causing  biliousness  and  heartburn. 

SOFT  BOILED  EGGS. 

Fresh  eggs  for  invalids,  who  like  them  cooked  soft,  should  be  put  in  a  pan  of  boiling 
water,  and  set  on  a  part  of  the  range  where  they  will  not  boil  for  several  minutes.  At  the 
end  of  that  time  they  will  be  like  jelly,  oe.rfectly  soft,  but  beautifully  done,  and  quite 
digestible  by  even  weak  stomachs. 


FOOD  FOR  THE  SICK.  173 

SOFT  TOAST. 

Toast  well,  but  not  too  brown,  a  couple  of  thin  slices  of  bread;  put  them  on  a  warm  plate 
and  pour  over  boiling  water;  cover  quickly  with  another  plate  of  the  same  size,  and  drain 
the  water  off;  remove  the  upper  plate,  butter  the  toast,  put  it  in  the  oven  one  minute,  and 
then  cover  again  with  a  hot  plate  and  serve  at  once. 

THICKENED  MILK. 

With  a  little  milk,  mix  smooth  a  tablespoon  of  flour  and  a  pinch  of  salt.  Pour  upon  it 
a  quart  of  boiling  milk,  and  when  it  is  thoroughly  amalgamated  put  all  back  into  the 
saucepan,  and  boil  up  once,  being  careful  not  to  burn,  and  stirring  all  the  time,  to  keep  it 
perfectly  smooth  and  free  from  lumps.  Serve  with  slices  of  dry  toast.  It  is  excellent  for 
diarrhoea,  and  becomes  a  specific  by  scorching  the  flour  before  mixing  with  the  milk. 

CHICKEN  JELLY. 

Half  a  raw  chicken,  pounded  with  a  mallet,  bones  and  meat  together,  plenty  of  cold 
water  to  cover  it  well,  about  a  quart.  Heat  slowly  in  a  covered  vessel,  and  let  it  simmer 
until  the  meat  is  in  white  rags  and  the  liquid  reduced  one-half.  Strain  and  press,  first 
through  a  colander,  then  through  a  coarse  cloth.  Salt  to  taste,  and  pepper  if  you  think 
best;  return  to  the  fire,  and  simmer  five  minutes  longer.  Skim  when  cool.  Give  to  the 
patient  cold — just  from  the  ice — with  unleavened  wafers.  Keep  on  the  ice.  You  can 
make  into  sandwiches  by  putting  the  jelly  between  thin  slices  of  bread  spread  lightly  with 
butter. 

INDIAN  MEAL  GRUEL. 

One  tablespoon  of  fine  Indian  or  oat-meal,  mix  smooth  with  cold  water  and  a  saltspoon 
of  salt;  pour  upon  this  a  pint  of  boiling  water  and  turn  into  a  saucepan  to  boil  gently  for 
half  an  hour;  thin  it  with  boiling  water  if  it  thickens  too  much,  and  stir  frequently;  when 
it  is  done,  a  tablespoon  of  cream  or  a  little  new  milk  may  be  put  in  to  cool  it  after  strain- 
ing, but  if  the  patient's  stomach  is  weak  it  is  best  without  either.  Some  persons  like  it 
sweetened  and  a  little  nutmeg  added,  but  to  many  it  is  more  palatable  plain. 

MILK  PORRIDGE 

Two  cups  best  oat-meal,  two  cups  water,  two  cups  milk.  Soak  the  oat-meal  over  night 
in  the  water;  strain  in  the  morning,  and  boil  the  water  half  an  hour.  Put  in  the  milk 
with  a  little  salt,  boil  up  well  and  serve.  Eat  warm,  with  or  without  powdered  sugar. 

ICE  IN  THE  SICK  ROOM. 

Cut  a  piece  of  flannel  about  nine  inches  square,  and  secure  it  by  ligature  round  the  mouth  of  an  ordinary  tum- 
bler, so  as  to  leave  a  cup-shaped  depression  of  flannel  within  the  tumbler  to  about  half  its  depth.  In  the  flannel 
cup  so  formed  ice  may  be  preserved  many  hours — all  the  longer  if  a  piece  of  flannel  from  four  to  five  inches 
square  be  used  as  a  loose  cover  to  the  ice  cup.  Cheap  flannel  with  comparatively  open  meshes,  is  preferable, 
as  the  water  easily  drains  through  it,  and  the  ice  is  thus  kept  quite  dry. 


174  HOME  DISSERTATIONS. 

SCOTCH    BROTH. 

A  two-pound  piece  of  scraggy  part  of  a  neck  of  mutton.  This  particular  cut  is  em- 
ployed because  the  muscles  of  a  sheep's  neck  are  in  constanc  use  as  to  make  that  part  of 
the  animal  better  flavored  and  more  nutritious  than  those  parts  through  which  the  blood 
has  run  less  freely.  Cut  the  meat  from  the  bones  and  remove  all  fat.  Cut  the  meat  into 
small  pieces  and  put  it  into  a  soup-kettle,  together  with  two  slices  of  carrots,  a  slice  of 
turnip,  a  stalk  of  celery  and  an  onion — all  cut  fine  ;  half  a  cup  of  barley  and  three  pints 
of  water;  allow  the  broth  to  simmer  gently  two  hours.  The  bones,  with  a  pint  of  water  allow 
the  same  time  for  simmering,  then  strain  into  the  soup-kettle.  A  tablespoon  each  of  butter 
and  flour  should  be  cooked  together  until  perfectly  smooth,  and  then  stir  into  the  broth; 
after  which  salt  and  pepper,  and  a  teaspoon  of  chopped  parsley  should  be  added.  Do 
not  cook  too  rapidly  or  at  too  high  a  temperature,  as  it  hardens  the  fibres  of  the  meat, 
whereas  a  slow  bubbling  renders  the  meat  tender  and  secures  a  better  flavor  for  the  broth. 
Mutton  is  so  nutritious,  and  so  easily  digested  as  to  deserve  much  attention  as  a  food 
during  convalescence.  If  it  be  properly  cooked,  the  peculiar  flavor  that  is  disagreeable 
to  some  persons  is  concealed,  though  the  meat  remains  palatable. 

MUTTON  BROTH. 

Mutton  broth  recommended  for  patients  whose  food  must  be  light,  is  made  with  a 
pound  of  meat  like  that  used  for  Scotch  broth,  freed  of  fat,  cut  into  small  pieces  and  put 
into  a  saucepan  containing  a  quart  of  cold  water.  When  this  water  has  become  heated  to 
a  boiling  point  skim  it  carefully,  add  a  teaspoon  of  barley,  and  allow  it  to  simmer  slowly 
two  hours. 

LEMON  JELLY. 

Soak  one-fourth  cup  of  gelatine  in  an  equal  quantity  of  cold  water  for  two  hours. 
Pour  upon  the  gelatine  a  cup  of  boiling  water,  and  add  half  a  cup  of  sugar,  one-fourth 
cup  of  lemon-juice,  and  after  straining  the  jelly  through  a  napkin  into  a  mould,  set  it 
away  to  cool. 

CREAM  TOAST. 

Half  a  cup  of  cream  heated  to  the  boiling  point,  and  seasoned  with  salt.  In  the  mean- 
time toast  two  slices  of  bread  to  a  light-brown,  then  dip  them  in  the  cream  and  place  on  a 
dish,  the  remaining  cream  pour  over  them. 

ENGLISH  SNIPE. 

Clean  them,  cut  off  the  wings  and  legs  at  the  first  joint.  Then  cut  the  birds  open  in 
the  back,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  dip  in  melted  butter,  then  dredge  with  flour.  Broil 
eight  or  ten  minutes,  and  serve  on  buttered  toast. 

WINE  WHEY. 

Sweeten  half  a  pint  of  milk  to  suit  the  sick  one's  taste.  Let  this  come  to  the  boiling 
point,  then  pour  in  a  wineglass  and  a  half  of  sherry  wine.  Let  it  stand  on  the  stove  to 
simmer  until  a  curd  forms;  then  strain  it  through  a  muslin  cloth  laid  in  a  colander. 
Let  it  stand  until  it  is  cool.  Serve  in  a  pretty  cup,  and  on  the  saucer  lay  two  or  three 
wafers. 


CONTENTS. 


HOME,    ....... 

ART    AT    HOME,  .  .  . 

THE   HEARTH-STONE,  . 

FLOWERS,  .  . 

WIFE 

MANNERS,  .  . 

CONVERSATION,    .  .  .  .  . 

TO-DAY 

HAPPINESS, 

ORDERLY    DOMESTIC    MANAGEMENT, 

KEEPING    HOUSE,         ,..-.-        . 

EMERSON    ON    THE    BABY, 

MR.  RUSKIN'S  IDEAS  OF  A  MODEL  NUR- 
SERY, .  .  .  ,  i  . 

CLEANLINESS,  .          .  . 

FOOD    AND    DRINK,        .  .  . 

ENTHUSIASM    OF    LABOR,  . 

TABLE   ETIQUETTE, 

TABLE   TALK,    .  .  . 

DINNER   GIVING, 

TABLE   RULES    FOR    LITTLE   ONES, 

FRENCH  NAMES  OF  DISHES  USED  IN 
MENUS,  .  .  . 

V/HERE  IS  THE  MAN  THAT  CAN  LIVE 
WITHOUT  DINING,  .... 


PAGE 

PAGE 

5 

sou.v,    . 

69 

FISH,            ..*,.„. 

82 

22 

SHELL   FISH,            .          . 

90 

•77 

OYSTERS,              ...... 

92 

FRYING,    ROASTING,    BROILING,    STEWING 

29 

AND    STEAMING,     .           .           .           .           , 

96 

31 

POULTRY,             

QO 

33 

GAME,    .           .           .           .           .           .           .           . 

77 

106 

BEEF,           

1  08 

38 

VEAL,     .          .          ...          . 

112 

MUTTON,  

116 

41 

PORK,     .           . 

118 

42 

SALADS  

120 

43 

*"•» 

SALAD   DRESSING  

121 

SAUCES      • 

122 

44 

PICKLES,         .           .           .          .          .          . 

I2C 

45 

VEGETABLES,     

^j 
127 

47 

EGGS,      .           . 

I36 

5i 

BREAD,       .           .           .           .                       .-',:. 

140 

53 

CAKE,     .           .          .          .          .           .          .          . 

c.<r 

57 

PASTRY,     

r55 

59 

PUDDINGS,     .          .          .    .      » 

158 

62 

SAUCES   FOR   PUDDINGS, 

163 

DESSERT,        .           .           .          .          .          . 

164! 

61 

ICES,            ....... 

L\Jt+ 

166 

**j 

BEVERAGES,             .     '      .          .          . 

1  68 

68 

FOOD   FOR  THE  SICK,       .... 

171 

THE   LANGUAGE   OF  FLOWERS 


Acacia,  Friendship 

Achimenes  Cupreata,  Such  worth  is  rare 
Almond  (flowering),  Hope 

Amaranth  (globe)  Immortality,  Unfading  love 
Amaryllis,  Pride,  Timidity,  Splendid  Beauty 
A nemone  (garden),  Forsaken 
Apple  (blossom;,  Preference 

Arbor  Vilce,  Unchanging  Friendship,  Live  for  me 
Aster  (China),  Variety,  Afterthought 
Auricula,  Painting 
Azalea,  Temperance 
£achelor's  Button,  Celebacy 
Bay  Leaf,  I  change  but  in  death 
Begonia,  Deformity 
Belladonna,  Silence,  Hush 
Bell  Flower  (small,  white),  Gratitude 
Cactus.  Warmth 

Calceolaria,  I  offer  you  my  fortune 
Camelia  Japonica  red,  Unpretending  excellence 
Camelia  Japonica  white,  Reflected  loveliness 
Canary  Grass,  Perseverance 
Candy  Tuft,  Indifference 
Cedar  Leaf,  I  live  for  thee 
Chestnut  'tree,  Do  me  justice 
Chrysanthemum,  red,  I  love 
Chrysanthemum,  white,  Truth 
Chrysanthemum,  Slighted  love 
Cineraria,  Always  delightful 
Clematis,  Mental  beauty 
Clover,  four-leafed,  Be  mine 
Clover,  red.  Industry 
Clover,  white,  Think  of  me 
Cowslips,  American,  Divine  beauty 
Crocus,  Abuse  not 
Cypress,  Death,  Mourning 
Daffodill,  Regard 
Dahlia,  Instability 
Daisy,  Innocence 
Daisy,  parti-colored,  Beauty 
Daphne  Odora,  Painting  the  Lily 
Dew  Plant,  A  serenade 

Eglantine  (sweetbriar),  Poetry,  I  wound  to  heal 
Everlasting,  Never-ceasing  remembrance 
Fern,  Fascination,  Magic,  Sincerity 
Fir,  Time 

Fleur-de-lis,  Flame,  I  burn 
Forget-me-nots,  True  love 
Fuchsia,  scarlet,  Fast 
Geranium,  horse-shoe  leaf,  Stupidity 
Geraninm,  ivy.  Bridal  favor 
Geranium,  lemon,  Unexpected  meeting 
Geranium,  nutmeg,  Expected  meeting 
Geranium,  silver-leaved,  Recall 
Gillyflower,  Bonds  of  affection 
Hawthorn,  Hope 
Heartsease,  or  Pansy,  Thoughts 
Heliotrope,  Devotion,  or  I  turn  to  thee 
Hibiscus,  Delicate  beauty 
Honeysuckle,  Generous  and  devoted  affection 
Honeysuckle,  (Coral),  The  color  of  my  fate 
Honeysuckle,  (French),  Rustic  beauty 
Hortensia,  You  are  cold 
Hoya,  Sculpture 
Hyacinth,  Sports,  Game,  Play 
Hyacinth,  purple,  Sorrowful 
Hyacinth,  white,  Unobtrusive  loveliness 
Hydrangea,  A  boaster 
Ice  Plants,  Your  looks  freeze  me 
Ivy,  Friendship,  Fidelity,  Marriage 
Jasmine,  Amiability 
Jasmine,  Transports  of  joy 
Jasmine,  Sensuality 
Jasmine,  Grace  and  Elegance 
King-cups,  Desire  of  riches 
Lantana,  Rigor 
Larkspur,  Lightness,  Levity 
Laurel,  Glory 
Laurestina,  A.  Token 
Lavender,  Distrust 
Leaves  (dead),  Melancholy 
Lemon  Blossoms,  Fidelity  in  love 
Lilac,  purple,  First  emotions  of  love 
Lilac,  white,  Youthful  innocence 

N.  B. — If  a  flower  be  given  reversed,  its  original 

mea 


Lilv  imperial,  Majesty 

Lily,  white,  Purity,  Sweetness 

Lilv  of  the  Valley,  Return  of  Happiness 

Lobelia,  Malevolence 

Lupine,  Voraciousness 

Magnolia,  Love  of  Nature 

Magnolia,  Swamp,  Perseverance 

Marigold,  French,  Jealousy 

Marigold  and  Cypress,  Despair 

Mignonette,  Your  qualities  surpass  your  charms 

Mint,  Virtue 

Mock  Orange,  Counterfeit 

Musk  Plant,  Weakness 

Myrtle,  Love 

Narcissus,  Egotism 

Nettle,  common  stinging,  You  are  spiteful 

Oleander,  Beware 

Olive,  Peace 

Orange,  blossom,  Your  purity  equals  your  loveliness 

Orange,  flowers.  Chastity,  Bridal  festivities 

Pansy,  Thoughts 

Passion  Flower,  Faith 

Peach  B  nssom,  I  am  your  captive 

Periwinkle,  blue,  Early  friendship 

Petunia,  Your  presence  soothes  me 

Finn,  Boldness 

Pink,  carnation,  Woman's  love 

Pink,  Indian,  double,  Always  lovely 

Pink,  Indian,  single,  Aversion 

Pink,  red,  double,  Pure  and  ardent  love 

Pink,  single,  Pure  love 

Pink,  variegated,  Refusal 

Pink,  white,  Ingeniousness,  Talent 

Plumbago,  Larpenta,  Holy  wishes 

Poppy,  red,  Consolation 

Poppv,  white,  Sleep 

Primrose,  Early  youth  and  sadness 

Rhododendron  (rosebay),  Danger,  beware 

Rose,  Love 

Rose,  bridal,  Happy  love 

Rose,  cabbage,  Ambassador  of  love 

Rose,  daily,  Thy  smile  I  aspire  to 

Rose,  damask,  Brilliant  complexion 

Rose,  deep  red,  Bashful  shame 

Rose,  single,  Simplicity 

Rose,  thornless,  Early  attachment 

Rose,  white,  I  am  worthy  of  you 

Rose,  white,  withered.  Transient  impressions 

Rose,  yellow,  Decrease  of  Love,  Jealousy 

Rose,  white  and  red  together,  Unity 

Rosebud,  red,  Pure  and  lovely 

Rosebud,  white,  Girlhood 

Rosebud,  moss,  Confe'sion  of  love 

Rosemary.  Remembrance 

Sage,  garden,  Esteem 

Salvia,  blue,  Wisdom 

Salvia,  red.  Energy 

Sensitive  Plant,  Sensibility 

Stock,  Lasting  beauty 

Sunflower,  tall,  Haughtiness 

Sweetbriar,  American,  Simplicity 

Sweet  Pea,  Delicate  pleasures 

Syr  ing  a,  Memory 

Thorn,  branch  of,  Severity 

Tuberose,  Dangerous  pleasures 

Tulip,  red,  Declaration  of  love 

Tulip,  variegated,  Beautiful  eyes 

Tulip,  yellow,  Hopeless  love 

Verbena,  pink,  Family  union 

Verbena,  scarlet,  United  against  evil 

Verbena,  white,  Pray  for  me 

Veronica,  Fidelity 

Vervain,  Enchantment 

Violet,  blue,  Faithfulness 

Violet,  sweet,  Modesty 

Viscaria  Oculata,  Will  you  dance  with  me  ? 

Wall-flower,  Fidelity  in  adversity 

Willow,  weeping,  Mourning 

Wisteria,  Welcome,  fair  stranger 

Woodbine,  Fraternal  love 

Xanthium.  Rudeness,   Pertinacity 

Yew ,  Sorrow 

Zinna,  Thoughts  of  absent  friends 

signification  is  understood  t>  be  contradicted,  and  the  opposite 
ning  to  be  implied. 


A,  DUHEM,  FLORIST  AND  DECORATOR,  121  SUTTER  ST.,  S. 


OFFICE  OF 


Goldberg,  Bowen  &  Lebenbaum 


The  first  edition  of  Home  Dissertations  met  with  such  universal 
approval  by  all  who  received  copies,  and  the  books  were  so  soon  distributed 
that  we  immediately  set  to  work  to  issue  this  second  edition. 

Since  issuing  the  first  edition  the  consolidation  has  taken  place  of  the 
two  oldest  Grocery  Establishments  on  the  Pacific  Coast,  and  we.  now  present 
this  modest  offering  to  housekeepers,  to  a  clientele  comprising  the  best  fami- 
lies in  this  city  and  every  city  and  town  of  the  Pacific  Coast,  who  have  been 
patrons  of  one  or  the  other  of  the  houses. 

Thus  il  may  not  be  inappropriate  to  give  a  few  details  concerning  the 
business. 

The  two  stores  will  remain  as  heretofore,  on  Pine  street  just  below 
Kearny  and  on  Sutler  just  above  Kearny. 

San  Francisco  is  a  cosmopolitan  city  and  the  whole  Pacific  Coast  is 
cosmopolitan  in  its  inhabitants,  and  in  order  to  cater  to  the  various  nation- 
alities a  stock  must  include  the  delicacies  from  every  climate  and  civilized 
nation. 

On  the  two  following  pages  are  enumerated  some  of  the  articles 
imported  from  the  different  producing  countries,  although  it  would  be 
impossible  to  classify  anything  like  the  entire  list. 

France  sends  the  greatest  variety,  followed  by  Germany,  England,  Italy, 
Holland,  Switzerland,  India,  China,  Japan,  etc. 


Importations  from 


GENUINE 
CHATEAU 
CLARETS 


Chateau  Lafite,  1875  &  1879 
Chateaux    Margaux,     1881 

and  1888 
Chateau  Leoville,  1874  and 

1881 

Brown  Cantenac,  1874  and 
•(       1881 
Mouton     Rothschild,     1881 

and  1882 

Pichon  Longueville,  1881 
Rausan  Segla,  1887 
Latour,  1887 
I^Pontet  Canet,   1887 

{  Romance  Conti,  1881 
Chambertin,  1881.  qts. 
Montrachet,  1881,  qts. 
Clos  de  Vougeot,  1878,  pts. 
and  qts. 
^Chablis,  1881,  qts. 
(  All  the  after  dinner  drinks  — 
I  Creme  de  Men  the,  Curacoa, 
1  Parfait     Amour,     Assorted 
[     Liqueurs  in  Paniers 
(  Fruits  Preserved  in  Juice 
•{  Fruits  Preserved  in  Brandy 
^  Candied  and  Glace 
C  Champignons,    Petit    Pois, 
Harricot   Vert,     Harricot 
j      Flageolet,  Marrons  Rotis 
et   au    Sirop,    Asperges, 
Pimeintes     Morrones     et 
Truffles,  in  glass  and  tin 
Pates  in  terrines  and  tin 
Pate  de  foie  Gras 
Foie  Gras  Pique  aux  Truffles 
Bird  Pates  in  Bijou  tins 
Puree  de  foie  Gras 
(^  Saucisses  et  Saucisson 
["Society  Roquefort 
I  Camembert,  in  glass  jars 
CHEESE    •{  Roquefort,  in  glass  jars 
|  Coulomnier,  in  glass  jars 
t  Fromage  de  Brie,in  glass  jars 
f  Sardines  a'  la  huile,  boneless 
Sardines  Royanau  Truffles 
Puree  de  Poisson 
FISH      •{  Anchovies  a  1'huile 

Anchovies  au  sel 
I  Thon  Marine 
I  Mackerel  a  1'huile 


GENUINE 
CHATEAU 
BURGUN- 
DIES 


CORDIALS 


FRUITS 


VEGE- 
TABLES 


MEATS 


Importations  from 


f  Wiesbaden  Fruits 
FRUITS    \  Melange  in  Arrack 

^Preserved  Cranberries 


MEATS 


FISH 


(  Westphalian  Hams 

j  Braunschweiger  Sausage 

J  Ganseleber  Sausage  Truffled 

Cervalatewurst 

Pommersche      Gansebrust, 
smoked 

Brabant  Sardellen 
Eels,  Smoked  and  in  Gelee 
Appetit  Sild 
Keiller  Sprotten 
Krauter  Anchovies 
k  Marinirte  Herring 


CHEESE    -  Limburger 


PICKLES 


- 

f  Dill  Gherkins 
\  Senfgurken 
'  Salt  Pickles 


f  Nuremberg  and  Brunswick 

SUNDRIES  -<      Honey  Kuchen 

l^Gall  and  Almond  Soap 


SUNDRIES  < 


Importations  from  Italy 


Olives 

Olive  Oil 

Parmesan  Cheese 

Gorgon  zola  Cheese 

Thon 

Mackerel  in  Oil 

Macaroni,  Vermicelli,  etc. 

Currants 

Chestnuts 

Mortadella  Sausage 

Castile  Soap 

Lachryma  Christi  Wine 

Marsala  Wine 

Vermouth 


Importations  fr°m 


f  Milchner  Herrings 

Cocoa 

SUNDRIES  <  Edam  Cheese 
j  Cucumbers 
l^ 


SUNDRIES 
3 


Importations  fr°W  Switzerland 

f  Neufchatel  Cheese 
I  Emrnenthaler  Cheese 
SUNDRIES  «^  Coffee  Extracts 
I  Chocolate 
^Condensed  Milk 

Importations  from  JHungary 

C  Paprika  (Pepper) 
J  Ansbruch  Tokayer 

<  j          rv  j- 

Burgundy,  bzegszardi 
t  Hock  Wine,  Szamorodni 

Importations  from  £n?'ai?d 

f  Stilton  Cheese 
Cheddar  Cheese 
Yarmouth  Bloaters 
Anchovy,       Bloater,      and 

Shrimp  Pastes 
Kippered  Herring 
Bol°gna  Sausage 
Oxford  Sausage 
Yorkshire  Game  Pate 
Jams  and  Jellies 
Pickles  and  Sauces 
Malt  and  Crystal  Vinegars 
Ale  and  Porter 

.Glenfield  Starch 

Importations  from  Ireland 

f  Belfast  Bacon 
SUNDRIES  ^  Dublin  Porter 
I  Irish  Whiskies 

Importations  from  Scotland 

f  Dundee  Marmalade 

0  J  Jams  and  Jellies 

SUNDRIES  <  JOatmeal 

[Scotch  Whiskies 

Importations  from  Mia 

f  Malaca  Pine  Apple 
|  Chutnies 
SUNDRIES-^  Sauces 

|  Ceylon  Tea 

i,  Darjaling  Assam  Tea 


Importations  from 

(  Hankow      Russian     Chop, 
J       English  Breakfast 
]  Formosa  Oolong 
(^Souchong  and  Congou 

Importations  from  Japan 

(  Preserved  Ginger 
SUNDRIES  -{  Rice 
(  Spices 

f  Natural  Green 
j  Natural   Uncolored   Basket 
TEAS  Fired 

|  Spider  Leg 
t.  Pekoe  Teas 

Importations  from  Spain 

f  Cadiz  Sherries 

SUNDRIES  -j  Olives  and  Olive  Oils 
[  Raisins 

Importations  from  Arabia 

COFFEE     j  Mocha 

Importations  from  Portugal 
PORT       j  Oporto 


Importations  from 

CUBA       j  Havana  Cigars 


PHIL-  f       . 

LJPINE  1  SP1C6S 

CEYLON    |  Cinnamon 
JAVA       |  Coffee 


Referring  to  the  foregoing  list  of  delicacies  and  the  countries  of  their 
origin  from  which  we  import  direct,  buying  only  from  first  hands  and  in 
large  quantities  upon  most  advantageous  circumstances,  we  are  enabled 
to  own  our  stock  in  trade  at  a  margin  very  close  to  that  of  the  producers. 

We  pay  no  profit  to  the  wholesale  dealer  or  middleman  and  buy  every- 
thing for  spot  cash. 

These  advantages  enable  us  to  offer  to  the  consumer  the  very  finest  high 
class  of  goods  the  world  pi  oduces  at  very  low  prices. 

We  publish  a  monthly  Catalogue  of  Prices  (5,000  copies]  which  will  be 
sent  free  to  anyone  upon  application  (send  postal).  It  enumerates  the  entire 
stock,  comprising  a  greater  variety  of  lines,  necessary  for  the  table,  kitchen 
and  boudoir,  than  any  other  regularly  published  price  list. 

Keen  judges  of  value  and  careful  buyers  are  invited  to  inspect  our  stock 
and  compare  prices  with  those  asked  by  others  for  inferior  goods. 

Very  respectfully, 
GOLDBERG,  BO  WEN  &  LEBENBAUM 


Hires'  Improved  Root  Beer 


One  25c  Package  makes  5  gallons  of  a  Delicious,  Sparkling  and 
Wholesome  Beverage 


HIRES'  ROOT  BEER  has  grown  in  such  popular  favor,  a  number  of  imitations 
have  appeared  upon  the  market.      The   manufacturers  thereof    representing  to  dealers 
that  their  goods  are  j  ust  as  good  as  Hires',  and  their  inducements  offered  to  dealers  of  a 
much  lower  price,  occasionally  induce  a  dealer  to  invest  in  these  inferior  goods,  and  for 
the  sake  of  more  profit,  misrepresent  them  to  their  customers. 

If  you  intend  purchasing  a  package  of  Hires'  Improved  Root  Beer,  do  not  be  put  off  by  such 
dealers  telling  you  that  any  other  article  is  just  as  good.  Insist  upon  getting  Hires',  and  take  no 
other. 


WHEN  YOU  HAVE  A 
COUGH  OR  COLD,  USE 


TTTDCQ' 

HI  K  co 


TTTP17 

LUKc 


HUCKINS 


Tomato, 
Ox  Tail, 
Pea, 

Beef, 
Vermicelli, 


Mock  Turtle,      Terrapin, 
Okra  or  Gumbo,  Macaroni, 
Green  Turtle, 
Julienne, 
Chicken, 


RICH  and  PERFECTLY  SEASONED. 


Consomme, 

Sou p  and  Boii ill! , 
Mullagatawny, 


Require  only  to  be  heated,  and  I  Prepared  with  great  care  from  I  Have  enjoyed  the  highest  reputa- 

are  then  ready  to  serve.         |        only  the  best  materials.        |      tion  for  more  than  32  years. 
r—^^^~—im*mi^^m      Send  us  SO  cents,  to  help  pay  express,  and  receive,  prepaid,  two  8am- 
I  TCCT    CDpE    I  Pie  cans  of  these  Soups,  your  choice. 
|    JEOI     TREE   |  j      H     w      j^Cj^j^g    &   CQ ^ 

SOLD  BY  ALL  LEADING  GROCERS.  Sole  Manufacturers,  Boston,  Mass. 


The  Santa  Fe  Route 


PERSONALLY    CONDUCTED 


Overland  Excursions 


San  Francisco,          Oakland,  Modesto,      Merced, 

Sacramento,  Santa  Rosa,      Madera,        Fresno, 

Stockton,  San  Jose,  Selma,        Kingsburg, 

Lathrop,  Tulare  and  Bakersfield 


EVERY  WEDNESDAY 


THROUGH    TO 


BOSTON 

WITHOUT    CHANQE 


Every  Excursion    is  Accompanied    by  a,   Santa    Fe 
Route  Excursion  Manager,  Through  to  Boston 


Byron  Mauzy's  Piano  Warerooms 


51?e 


arjd 


U/arqrooms  or?  tfre  pacific  C^oast 


INTERIOR  VIEW  OF  WAREROOMS 


SOLE  AGENT  FOR 


SOHMER  &  CO, 

CHASE  BROS. 

HALLETT  &  CUJVISTON 

NEWBY  &  EVANS 


TABER  REED  ORGANS 


Pianos  Sold  on  very  EASY  TERMS  at  CASH  PRICES 

PIANOS    XUBJEO  <*  REPAIRED.       I'lA  X»S  XO 


308,  310.  312,  314  POST  STREET,  SAN  FRANCISCO 

IVVCH    IC-l    >!<»»   CI^ITB   1M   I  I,I»IX«. 


Coast  Representative  for  Hook  &  Hastings,  Pipe  Organ  Manufacturers 


SHEET  MUSIC  DEPARTMENT 

Branch  of 
White-Smith  Music  Publishing  Company 

Boston 
L.  BUDD  ROSENBERG,  Manager 


SMALL  GOODS  DEPARTMENT 

Guitars,  Violins,  Mandolins,  Banjos,  Accor- 
dions, Zithers,  etc.     Best  Quality  Strings. 


Something  about  Pianos 


In  these  days  of  art  and  culture,  a  piano  is  an  almost  indispensable  article  in  the 
household.  In  selecting  so  expensive  an  article  it  is  advisable  to  patronize  some  well 
established  firm.  Byron  Mauzy,  308  to  314  Post  street,  in  the  Pacific-Union  Club 
Building,  has  the  largest  and  finest  warerooms  in  the  city,  and  as  he  is  agent  for  many 
of  the  leading  makers,  one  would  have  no  trouble  in  making  a  proper  selection.  We 
noticed  Grands  and  Uprights  in  Rosewood,  Mahogany,  Oak,  Walnut  and  Hazelwood, 
and  prices  according  to  style  and  maker. 

Music  and  the  trade  therein  finds  its  most  worthy  representative  in  San  Francisco 
in  Mr.  Byron  Mauzy.  Mr.  Mauzy  has  done  for  local  amateurs  and  lovers  of  the  tune- 
ful art  what  no  other  dealer  has  ventured  to  attempt  to  do.  He  has  given  them  a 
handsome  and  spacious  hall,  appropriately  fitted  up  with  all  the  accessories  for  a  pub- 
lic performance.  This,  added  to  the  fact  that  Mr.  Mauzy  is  agent  for  the  Sohmer  Piano, 
has  gained  him  a  great  popularity  in  the  music-loving  community — a  feeling  which  in 
nowise  interferes  with  the  steady  growth  of  his  successful  business.  As  agent  of  so 
peerless  an  instrument  as  the  Sohmer,  which  a  large  number  of  people  think  the  very 
best  piano  made,  Mr.  Mauzy  would  naturally  have  his  hands  full;  but  it  is  only  his  due 
to  state  that  he  has  done  more  for  the  advancement  of  a  popular  taste  for  good  music 
than  any  other  dealer  in  the  city,  and  deserves  proportionately  better  of  all  music-lov- 
ing people. 


The  Delbeck 


Champanes 


DRY 

THE  PERFECTION  OF  A   DRY   WINE 

THE  VIN   BRUT 

The  Highest  Grade  of  Champagne,  without 
Sweetness 

The  Barton  &  Gaestiet* 

(Established  1725,  Bordeaux) 

CLARETS,  WHITE  WINES 
*P  OLIVE  OIL 


James  de  Fremery  &  Co. 

SAN  RRANCISCO 
Qeperal  /l<$er>ts  for  tl?<?  pacific  C^oast 


O'HALLARAN  &  GO. 


MANUFACTURERS  OF 


FINE  CLEAR 


FACTORY  Nos.  86, 42  &  206 


KEY  WEST,  FLA. 


P.  O.  Box  193 


BUY 
THE 


ONLY 
BEST 


THE  GAIL  BORDEN 


Has  maintained  its  high  reputation  for  ABSOLUTE 
PURITY  for  over  a  QUARTER  OF  A  CENTURY. 

AS  A  FOOD  FOR  INFANTS  IT  HAS  NO  EQUAL 

FOR  SALE  By- 
Grocers  and  Druggists  Everywhere. 


THE 


American  Biscuit 


COMPANY 


FRANCISCO 


Largest  and  Most   Complete  Biscuit 
Manufactory  in  the  World. 


Constantly  Introducing  Novelties 

TRY  THE  LATEST 

Saline  Snow  Flakes 
High  Teas,  $ 


fjand-made 


Qrackers 


Crackers  Fresher  and  Better  than  any  imported 


OICE  EXTRA 
STARR&CQ. 

16  CALIFORNIA  ST 
FRANCISCa 


This  Brand  of  Flour  Leads  all  others!   Try  It 


OAKLAND    DEPOT:     FOOT   OF   FRANKLIN   STREET. 


CHAMPAGNE 


THK  importations  into  this  countty  during 
1890  show  90,130  cases  of  C.    H. 

MUMM    &    GO'S    EXTRA     DRY, 

^T      being  an  increase  of  27,000  cases  over 
I       the  previous  year,  evidencing  the   high 
appreciation  in  which  this  wine  is  held  for  its 
xcellent  quality,     ft  is  recommended  by  the 
most  eminent  physicians  in  this  country  for  its 
purity,  small  amount  of  alcohol  and  whole^ome- 
ness,  while  for  a  fine  dry  champagne,  "G.  H. 
MUMM  &  GO'S  EXTRA  DRY"  is  consid- 
ered by  connoisseurs  as  unsurpassed. 

TRADE  SUPPLIED  BY 

JONES,  MUNDY  &  CO. 

K>    F  ront  Street,  San    F  raivcisco,    Cal. 


ANHEUSER  AND  BUDWEISER  BOTTLED 
LAGER  BEER 


ANHEUSER-BUSCH 


BREWING  ASSOCIATION 
ST.  LOUIS 


CELEBRATED  BOTTLING  OF 
WM.  EDMONDS  JR.  &  CO.-  LIVERPOOL 

GUINNESS'  STOUT,  BASS'  ALE 

PIG  BRAND 

VAL  BLATZ'S CELEB "— 

"WEINER"  **  "PRIVATE  STOCK" 

RED  RIBBON  BEERS 

TRADE   SUPPLIED   BY 

JONES,  MUNDY  &  CO. 

Street  .  gan.  KrartciSCQ,  Cal. 


FREERECLIIHKG  Cn/UR  CARS 


COLONIST    SLEEPERS, 

AND 
DRAWING  ROOM  StEEPIN<5  CARS 

AND  SUPERB  DINING  CARS. 


2O6  &2O3GL.ARK   ST 

-*•«  PASSENGER.     STATION 
*^<     COA.  "WELLS  A  XINZJE 


GHIGAGO   1*0 

OAVAHA  15%  MRS. 

DENVER          33/2  „ 

PORTLAND     32   „ 

SAN  FRANCISCO   85  „ 

ST.  PAUL         13/2  ,, 

AINNEAPOLIS  1*  „ 
nULVTH          16 


3rd  ^ce  Eresidfflt 


TIKE 


Fastest  Trains  in  America, 

SCHEDULED  FOR  PASSENGER  TRAFFIC, 


KTJN     VIA 


Baltimore  &  Ohio  R,  R, 


—  BETWEEN 


Pullman  Buffet  Cars  on  Day  Trains.    Pull- 
man Sleeping  Cars  on  all  Night  Trains. 


The  Baltimore  &  Ohio  R,  R, 

Maintains  a  Complete  Service  of  Vestibuled 
Express  Trains  between 

New  York,  Cincinnati, 

St.  Louis  and  Chicago, 


*: 


-EQUIPPED  WITH- 


#& 

'    \/DJ 

|h* 


Pullman  Palace  Sleeping  Cars 

RUNNING  THROUGH  WITHOUT  CHANGE, 


All  B,  &  0,  Trains  Between  the  East  anJ  West  Rnn 

WASHINGTON. 


211  Washington  Street,  Boston,  Mass. 

415  Broadway,  New  York. 

9th  and  Chestnut  Streets,  Philadelphia,  Pa. 

Cor.  Baltimore  and  Calvert  Streets,  Baltimore,  Md. 


1351  Pennsylvania  Avenue,  Washington,  D.  C. 
Corner  Wood  Street  and  Fifth  Ave.,  Pittsburgh,  Pa. 
Corner  4th  and  Vine  Streets,  Cincinnati,  O. 
101  North  Fourth  Street,  St.  Louis,  Mo. 


J.  T.  ODELL, 

General  Manager. 


193  Clark  Street,  Chicago,  111. 

CHAS.  O.  SCULL, 

BALTIMORE,  MD.  General  Passenger  Agent 


The  INGLENOC 
tected  by  its  trade  m 
the  Wines.  None  g< 


IICE 

^»,  * 

. 

Eav  f 


the  vineyard  in  California:  pro- 
aarantees the  absolute  purity  ot 


?S 

and  Purity 


TILED  ATTHE  CELEBRATED 
^OOK  VINEYARDS 

FORNIA 


First  Award   of  Merit 


and  Medal,  International 
Exhibition,  Melbourne, 
Aust.,  1888. 


Cal 


cest  Production 


CL 


BURGUNDY.     SAUTERNE 
DEL.     HOCK.     BURGER.     RIESLING 
PRIVATE  STOCK  BRANDY 


Absolute  Purity  Guaranteed  by  the  Legal  Pure  Wine  Stamp 

For  Sale  by  GOLDBERG,  BOWEN  &  LEBENBAUM,  and  all  leading 


Wine  Merchants  and  Grocers  in  every 

City  in  the  Union 
FOR  PRICES  APPLY  TO 


F,  A,  HABER,  OFFICE  AND  DEPOT  INGLENOOK  VINEYARD 

122    SANSOME  ST.,   SAN    FRANCISCO 


THE  CALIFORNIA 


BUSH  ST.,  NEAR 


SAN  KRANCISCO,  CAL. 


THE  ONLY  STRICTLY  EUROPEAN   PLAN   AND   FIRE-PROOF 
HOTEL  IN  THE  CITY 


IT  IS  A  RECOGNIZED  fact  that  San  Francisco  has  made  from  time  to  time  the  greatest  effort 
to  surpass  all  other  cities  in  her  Hotel  accommodations,  and  it  must  be  conceded  that  the  acme 

of  perfection  has  now  been  reached.  The  California  was  opened  December,  1890,  and  there  is 
nothing  on  the  Pacific  Coast,  so  far  as  artistic  taste,  elegance  of  appointments  and  lavish  expendi- 
ture go,  which  can  compare  with  it. 

The  California  is  unsurpassed  in  style  of  service  by  the  best  hotels  of  the  United  States. 
Heretofore  there  has  been  no  strictly  European  plan  hotel  in  San -Francisco.  Select  music  every 
evening  in  Restaurant  between  6  and  8  P.  M.  Moderate  rates.  OTF 

A  visit  to  this  city  is  incomplete  without  seeing  The  California,  unquestionably  the  most  beauti- 
ful and  luxuriously  furnished  hotel  in  America. 

A.  F.  KINZLER,  MANAGER 


